Gday mate. Sorry for the switch. I believe your switch was damaged during transportation. It is a long way from China to USA. please send us an email for a switch replacement. We are setting up a USA-based repair and service workshop to serve our US customers. It will be opening very soon. I have called our workshop in China to discuss tumbling the exposed panel parts. We 100% own our workshop in China and we only outsource some parts manufacturing to others. We will try our best to make more affordable innovative reloading products. We really appreciate your advice. Regards Cheng
Thank you for the reply and offer. Good to see you stand behind your product. The switch has been working fine so far after some use. If it becomes unstable again, I'll let you all know.
thanks for taking the time to make the video! very informative. I actually ended up getting an EP 2.0 annealer and is easy to switch from cartridge to cartridge without swapping out any parts and switches over in seconds.
I've been wanting to anneal my rifle brass for years, but didn't want to spend a fortune on a machine. This looks like a great setup! To me it is a thing of beauty, especially in the simplicity of design and function. Thank you for the video!
I just got one after a live chat with uncle Jim 2. I like it. I still have to set it up, but it was packed well and I don't have any complaints about metal finish. I think it's quite good. I wouldn't call it ugly. I think it's beautiful.
I'd be curious to see someone do a side by side of this one vs the "Anealeez". They are similar in price, but the other is made in the USA. Anyone know of that comparison?
I have both, wheels on annealeez melt easily. Ugly annealer has metal wheels with diamond dust for grip and the unit works perfectly. The Annealeez works well for larger brass, 308, 270, etc. But for 223, 300 blackout I like the Ugly Annealer better.
Interesting review. A few questions… How far does 300 BLK extend past the edge of the thin rotor? How hot does the rotor get from the torch? What is the mechanism that drives the lower rotor? Is there any plastic in that mechanism? Thanks!
One thing I missed on the video, the ejector is adjustable to bring it below the shoulder. I may have found that out that hard way, I missed that on my first run of 223. I don't know if that's why the 300 BLK, fell through on the first run. Not adjusting the ejector right, or if I was going too fast. I have not had a chance to do any 300 BLK. As soon as I do I'll replay. I don't know if it will get hot if adjusted right. I can tell you 223 is very close too and it did fine. Plastic? Yes, the gears. Look at 6:08.
@@pctech12345 Your 300ACC fell out becasue the wheel position needs to be a bit more outwards. The position of the wheel should be adjusted according to the centroid of your brass. also, the polycarbonate panel helps the brass to maintain the positioning of the brass during feeding(the polycarbonate panel keeps the brass close to the front metal panel). By the way, the gears are made of heavy duty glass fibre reinforced nylon. the maxium temperature on the aluminium wheel is below 100degC according to our testings. We also designed a few heat insulating grooves onto the lower shaft. You will never be able to melt the nylon gears at the back even if you put a flame directly towards the wheel.
You will be able to heat your 300ACC without worrying over heating wheel 100%. The thiner diamond coated wheel was designed for 300ACC and 6.5BR. you will have enough length of brass exposed.
Yeah I did the same. Just adjusted the wheel out to center of case, no issues after that. And I did not adjust the ejector, big mistake. Things got toasty, my mistake. I love the machine, works well, great craftsmanship, very durable. Easy to use.
You likely know Ugly annealer has changed to a push switch. Yours likely damaged in transport from china. What surprised me is you went thru many cases in a dry run, but never showed anything about torch setup. That has been my only issue with my Ugly Annealer. Using the "recommended" Bernzo pencil torch head, but unless I allow the propane bottle to hang over the end of the table I can't get much adjustment. The clamp holding the nozzle allows only one position. That is, it won't clamp onto the tube of the torch head, only the very back end of nozzle itself. The gas tube on recommended Bernzo torch head is too small.I'd like more flexibility with the torch head mount. For others: REMEMBER you can't tilt the propane bottle up. It's liquid propane. The bottle need to be lower than the torch head. Wish there was more flexibility in mounting the torch for exact flame placement, which is key.
Maybe you should go back and re-read the title of the video. There within the title, is the clue. Does it say anything about annealing the brass in the title?
