I have lightburn and custom. Built a machine to my specs. What are the burn setting you used for your laser? FYI I blew my 5w laser neje and due to not buying from their shop I can't get it replaced or support. Now I have a 0.5w laser. Can you assist in the settings for lightburn using calv cold steel spray and rotary chuck?
Used this technique to engrave tumblers for my entire baseball team. Logo on the front, number and name on the back. It worked flawlessly! Thank you so much for sharing!
Hi from Houma, La and from someone that is looking into the hobby and possibly even a little side cash. One of my hobbies is board games and I review them on my RU-vid channel. One of the uses I was looking for was to make custom inserts and boxes for some of the games. I am torn on which one to get. Most of the comparison videos seemed to be paid for and lean hard towards their sponsor. You review like I do, straight and honest, give the facts and let the viewer decide. (Plus being a local Louisiana guy is a bonus, haha). I'm looking doing some tumblers. Definitely stuff like the multilayer signs and Mothers day sign. Really would love to engrave stone coasters, like slate or sandstone. And definitely would love to do portraits on wood and tiles. Those wood coins you made a few months back gave me tons of ideas too. Plus something I can grow into. I see there are 20w quad diode lasers coming onto the market and seems like a great entry. Between the Atomstack, Xtool and Ortur, (probably others). Is there really much of a difference in quality of portraits and engraving? Or is more on dialing in the best setting? Kinda leaning towards the Xtool due to RA2 rotary, enclosure and the extensions available. But it is on the upper end of what I'm looking to spend. But appears to be worth it. Any advise or a good shove to one side of the fence or the other would be greatly appreciated.
Absolutely did it again Rich! Knocked it outta the park. I think once you got in the frame of mind of actually running the job half way into the video, that it brought up some great detailed information. My tumblers turned out perfect as far as alignments on opposite faces of the tumblers, and overcoming brand logos on smaller tumbler mugs was also something I’ll be up against. But because I didn’t know what to do about white space, the tumbler was a 3 hour job @ 180mm/m on 10W library settings for stainless which was the closest my library settings had available for the job. I didn’t like the big speed difference from converting mm/s for coated metal in laserbox. The white space part of the video was a great addition to the topic. Will be handy for larger cutting boards etc. 🙏🏼
Hi Rich. Great video and great tip on how to simplify whole process . What a great feelings to be a Master of Universe with your work and knowledge about laser engraving and more. Thank you as always,
Great job man! To speed up things you can enter substraction, addition multiplication and division directly in the writing field instead of opening the calculator...etc. See you next time!
Thanks for another great video. I was thinking about doing two sided shot glasses and was basically heading down this path, thanks for confirming my theory. I'm sure you know this but for other LightBurn newbies like me, you don't have to open a calculator to quarter your initial tool path rectangle, just type /4 behind the number you want to divide, LightBurn will do the math for you.
Well that was very informative video, and you made it so easy to understand, I was able to follow so easy. One day soon I will get my roller set up on the laser, I am in the process of making the box for the 2nd laser, and then my 1st laser will be set up for roller, and 2nd laser for flat work.
Thanks for sharing, awesome and informative video. Just wanted to say for those that may be 'math-phobic' the positioning could also be done by centering 1 graphic in the print area, centering the 2nd graphic on either of the ends of the workspace, then click both graphics and slide left or right until it is all within the workspace, without math, they are now 180 degrees our from each other
I thought your original video’s explanation was REALLY good, with the four boxes then getting rid of the middle two boxes. But then again I’m a Math guy. ;-)
Awesome video! I'm over here trying to break put all sorts of formulas to get the other side positioned correctly 🤣 on thing I did find is doing round logos... make the width 10% wider to give the effect of if being round on the mug...I'm Still trying to figure out speed current running 3000mms/80%power and its still not giving a "shiny stainless" but more of an engraved metal look...using Atomstack stack x20
You can actually do the math within lightburn. In the width you can add /4 at the end of 188.496 then press enter and it'll give you 47.124. You can also do stuff like (10+5)*2 and it'll give you 30. I can't think off the top of my head why you would need the second option but as I was typing this I thought "Wait, can you do more complex formulas?" and you turns out you can.
Thanks for another great video Rich. I use an Ortur Master 2 Pro with an Ortur YRR and suffer from slight slippage in the Y (rotational) direction. I tried your suggestion of "Fill Shapes Individually", but found that "Fill all shapes at Once" and "Fill Groups Together" resulted in a no unwanted movement in the Y direction, so less chance to slip. We've discussed it previously in relation to a separate issue, but I engrave wood and like a line after fill to really make my text and graphics crisp. This is where I suffer a slight mismatch between engrave and line. The problem is that Lightburn wants to complete the full engrave before starting the line and therefore the YRR rotates the work all the way back to the beginning before starting the line and hence sometimes a mismatch in the Y direction. I have been searching for a setting which causes the line to be burned immediately after a section of graphics or text letter has been burned. Other than putting each section or letter on a different layer, which is sometimes impossible, I can't seem to find a way.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I keep any settings associated with movement in the Y direction to quite low values. e.g. Accel' Y ($121). I leave my woodturning in the big heavy lathe chuck which I rest on the 2 rollers of the YRR. I prevent any movement in the X direction by a small magnet, so it's never going to fly off like a tumbler might. With relevant settings slowed down, I don't have much of a problem these days. I may get a stepper motor driven chuck device one day.🙂
@Doug Bennett I had that same issue, so I went to the dollar store and picked up some double sided tape , I make complete wrap around the tumbler where it is not in the way of the burn. Once I have it on I run my hands around the tape so it's not so sticky works great
@@jimmccall4599 Thanks for the tip. I've not tried the double-sided tape. I did try some spray glue on the rollers which helped. It's a shame we can't get Lightburn to do the line along with the fill, rather than completely before or after.
Hi LA Hobby Guy I love the Nurse life design can you share that for me I want to make my daughter that design she is studying nursing, thank you in advance.
I didn’t catch you explaining that you need to flip the design 90 degrees to match how your rotary is sitting? Sometimes you need to mirror the image-I don’t understand how to know when to do that.
Curious why the chuck is not 180° around on the rotary tool. If the tumbler was over the ‘bed’ you would not need the drill as a counter balance. I’ve no experience yet with rotary tools so there may be something I’m totally missing Great demo as always
Any chance you could make a universal test card for the roller? BTW hello, I have been watching and following your videos you are amazing keep up the great work
So I was wondering where you went? I subscribed to your channel a few months ago! Where you helped us with lightburn and you have graciously gave us some files to play with. I work two jobs and I had to manually look up your name through search and seen the subscribe icon?
So if I'm working with a tumbler with a screw top lid, I line up the laser head with the mouth of the tumbler lid, and put the origin as right center? (piburn and thunder laser, design flipped 90 degrees different from yours)... thanks for this video... will be experimenting tomorrow - have 100 double sided to do so this will save a ton of time.
About to send this to my laser, but the green dot is between the images that will be back and front of my tumbler. I'm having a hard time visualizing what you said about lining the image and laser head up with the logo (in my case the igloo logo = mouth of the tumbler). If the green start point end up between the images, wouldn't I need to find the center between the mouth and back of the tumbler?
😅Sorry, I guess I was watching the video to close cause on the rotary set you had chuck clicked. I didn't know if that made a difference, cause I was use a chuck and each side came out oval. Thanks
Do you have a video about the DEWALLIE Rotary?? The only video I found about it was from someone that didn't speak English so I couldn't understand what he was sayin.
I was wondering how you engrave a tumbler one side of a 30oz yeti tumbler up top in the big area then, on the other side, down on the bottom where it would go into the cup holder? is it the same principle as the video above? thank you in advance
Hi i wanted to ask u i want to add a roller to my neje 3 max can i use anyone available like xtool i cant find anything on this Thanks for all your great video i learning lots from your channel
I am using Piburn 4.0 with Omtech 60w mf. Do you need to find steps for each individual product and change rotation steps at each job or is there a way of setting the steps to change automatically. ie My steps for 30oz tumbler are 5100 while 20oz is 5250. I have tried changing diameter only but rotation is off unless I change steps. Do I need to calculate steps for every product I engrave with rotary?
Dzień dobry, mam pytanie. Jak wyłączyć alarmy przy OLM2 Pro? Włączają się bez powodu. Good morning, l have a question. How to turn off alarms on OLM2 Pro? They turn on for no reason. l live in Poland.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i have and they all end looking dark or matte. I have tried windex and baking soda and works great. Will also try isopropyl alcohol. Was just wondering a ballpark range or tip to make it easier to clean on painted tumblers
I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND AN ANSWER, IN THE LIGHTBURN, I WOULD LIKE TO SLOW THE SPEED THE LASER MOVES, WHEN IT IS TRACING/OUTLINING (LOW POWER) AN AREA BEFORE ENGRAVING OR CUTTING, IT MOVES WAY TOO FAST AND THE LASER HAS SLAMMED IN TO THE FRAME, ITS HAPPENED TOO MANY TIMES, LASER GRBL MOVES SLOW ENOUGH THAT I DONT HAVE THAT PROBLEM, HOW WOULD I SLOW THAT SPEED DOWN, I HAVE PUT OFF USING LIGHTBURN BECAUSE OF THAT, I HAVE ATOMSTACK A5, ONCE I CAN SLOW THAT SPEED DOWN THEN I CAN REALLY START USING LIGHTBURN, UNTIL I CAN FIND OUT HOW TO CHANGE THAT SPEED, I DONT WANT TO USE IT AND TAKE A CHANCE OF SLAMMING THE LASER SO HARD IN TO THE RAIL, THE LASER WILL BECOME DAMAGED
It depends on the roller and the direction of the stepper motor Monztuh. Always do a test. I will usually wrap the item in tape and run the job at very low power to make sure.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy ah ok got you. I have another question. Is it necessary to mirror the image option in the rotary whenever using a rotary device? Also is there any difference between the absolute coordinates current position and starting origin options when using a rotary compared to not using one?
