Love your videos! I have 2 Satoris. 53# and 47# @ 58”. 53# has Carbon Velos limbs. I shoot a 590 grain full metal jacket arrow out of the 53# bow. I also have a Black Widow PSA X 53# , 58”. I have a 26” draw. Both 53# bows are set up exactly the same shooting the same arrow. I can’t see any difference in performance between the Satori and the Black Widow. The Satori is a great bow! I could not be any more happy with the performance of this bow. And the full metal jacket arrows are in my opinion the most durable, consistent, best penetrating arrows you can get!
Great video , I just set my Satori up with 250 Carbon express with 100 grain ethics and 150 Magnus Buzzcut. Working on Victory VAP's for it 400 spine working out point weight. The VAP is only 7.2 grains per inch I believe which will give great FOC
Aye Jeff! I’ve got my Satori 17” with short limbs waiting for me to set up. Currently I’ve been shooting a Bear Super Grizzly 50# at 28” with a draw length of 27” my question for you is would the arrows that I currently am using be suitable for the Hoyt satori? It’s a 59# at 28” and the arrows are GT traditional 400’s with 150 grain field tips. Would like to know your opinion and thoughts on that combo. Thanks!
Jeepers I've been shooting hunter xts for years on my compounds..!!! I never thought about them for my Satori... great video! Are those 5 inch feathers?
I'm shooting a Satori, 17" riser with 45# short limbs making the bow 58" and around 51-52#'s based on my draw at 28.5 +/_. Shooting split finger so would like your thoughts on tiller adjustment between top and bottom limbs, are you using the shim plates on the side plate and what type of stabilizer do you recommend. Currently using Bear hair rest cause the Hoyt is junk. Also thinking of purchasing some DAS limbs and was wondering if there are different adjustment parameters from the standard Hoyt Satori limbs. Appreciate your thoughts, keep the videos coming, excellent and informative content,
Well first I think you’ll be much happier with medium limbs especially with finger pinch and you want it at least 1/8” positive tiller for split, I used a Bee Stinger on mine loved it!
Hello, great vid, thanks. Will you be kind to recommend me a perfect arrow in your opinion, for my set up? 19" satori riser, blackmax 2.0 medium 40# and 55# limbs, draw length 29"? I wanna see a perfect arrow flight too, but not a expert, and don't have clubs or professionals of your kind around me, since I'm in Europe. Hope you will answer, because can't wait to order those arrows 🙏
Hi Jeff, do you know how far past center the Satori riser is cut. Trying to figure out my centershot shooting off the shelf. I am using the Easton carbon legacy arrows 500 spine drawing 48# @27". My arrow diameter is .295" Trying to calculate if I need any of the spacers behind the side plate. I think someone said they were cut .470" past center so half of my .295" is .1475" subtracted from the. 470" would put the side plate width at .3225" and that's close to it without any spacers. Thanks Jeff I Love your very informative videos. God Bless you brother 🙏
Mine doesn’t have any spacers behind the plate and it will shoot about anything you want to run through it lol, I would guess that with no spacers it’s probably 1/8” past center 👍🏻
Found your video regarding the Satori setup/arrow choice. I shot a Wind C2 takedown (#55 at 27") for roughly 40 yrs. Lost it in a house fire several years ago and after trying the compound life for several years its back to the basics. Simply not my cup of tea. I want to replace the Wing with something along the same lines. Any recommendations. The Satori does interest me. I had no real adjustment issues other than the squaring of the knock and the brace height. The KISS way of life. I'm also a fan of your arrow theory on up front weight and penetration. Accuracy for me will always be more advantageous than speed. Do you have any recommendations regarding bow replacement? I enjoyed your video regarding arrow choice.
Man there are so many great options out there and yes an ILF setup is versatile even with arrow tuning and I’m just a huge fan of Gold Tips I’m actually hunting with warriors can’t beat them for the money 👍🏻
Liked your videos. I have a WNS MOTIVE FX25 riser classified as an intermediate riser. I would like to upgrade but many brands like Hoyts are not available in our country. China risers though like the SANLIDA X10 and TOPOINT UNISON RISERS are affordable and available. Would you recommend them or should I stick to my WNS MOTIVE RISER classified as an intermediate riser?
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Jeff, can I shoot 4 fletch once a shaft is spine aligned, and do I have to have a way to keep the spine oriented in the same location each time I nock an arrow? Meaning do I have to nock the arrow to the string one way, but can't flip it over and nock it the other way (other side of nock is up) because that would change where the spine is relative to the bow?? Thanks. Hope you understand the question.
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Just a little bit of bow wax, where the top of your under the tiller bolt, might help, I tried it on a Bosen Horn 17" riser, with Bosen Carbon bamboo limbs H17@62
Ok. So on the titan. Once strung pop the string. Nothing much. Just a half inch string pop. It sets the limbs detent in place and you get that pop. You are referring to out of the way. Then your gold. Yes. All titans do that.
Are you using the 17" riser? I'm 6'2" so was thinking about the 19" riser, and even the 21" at first. But I want a balance between short and stiff, and long and smooth. This is all new to me, but I was shooting straight with a 55-60 lb recurve at the range. So I'm thinking about the 50lb carbon limbs, and some lighter cheapos for practice etc. Any advice on ideal riser and limb length would be greatly appreciated. 29-30" draw.
Great info, thanks! My local shop only has a 21" satori riser, so I can't really get a feel for em. Maybe I'll just get the 17" riser, and play around with different limbs before getting nice ones. @@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998
I shoot a Tomahawk longbow 50# and a couple FALCO longbows , when i picked up the Hoyt Satori 21" riser it felt like a brick + it was top heavy. ..didn't like it at all, maybe its just a matter of getting used to the extra weight ?
Yes they do not feel like a custom wood bow at all but shoot great I love wood bows that’s why we’re building them now there’s just something about beautiful wood lol
I just cut the arrow shaft (GT Traditional 400 ) to 29" yesterday ( my draw length is 28" ). The total point weight is 250 grains(including with the insert). When I shouted the arrow , the arrow flying posture is somewhat unnatural. The arrow point was diagonally downward and the tail was diagonally upward. Don’t know what about the setting problem , knots of the bowstring ? or the point weighs?(Bow: Wapiti 50#@28” ~60”)
Valos traditional limbs are measured on a 21" riser.....valos target limbs are measured on a 25" riser So for 17" riser add 4# for valos trad... Add 8# for target valos
Hi, I just found your channel and have subscribed. Thank you for putting out such informative and entertaining content. I have been shooting a compound bow for 45 years and just last year picked up two 19" ILF risers [ Tradtech Titan 3 and a CD WF-19 Stalker]. I purchased 3 sets of Tradtech wood/glass limbs for the risers [35.40/45#]. I also picked up some aluminum arrows to start off/practice with and have been shooting my recurve over my copound at every opportunity. I feel that I would like to take the recurve afield this year and need to upgrade my arrows. I found the XT shafts you reccommended in tradional paint at Three Rivers. I have a question for you.....what size shaft/insert would you reccommend? I am thinking of running a 150 grain cutthroat broadhead up front; with my 45# limbs my bow is pulling about 42#. I am figuring on leaving my shafts a little long at 27.5 inches initially and most likely having them cut back to about 25/26 inches. Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. Keep these great videos coming...they are great!
Yes sir it sounds like 500’s would be the ticket that way you could shoot more insert weight if you choose and I would definitely order some 100gr brass inserts to try I believe you’ll be very pleased thanks so much!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Hi, I have another question for you...arrows seem to be rather scarce supply as of late...Do you think that running a 400 spine arrow with that setup would be to stiff? I ask just in case I can get my hands on some 400's I have another option to the 500's. Thanks in advance...
With my satori 50lb shooting GT traditional 400s bareshafts they shoot straight with 200gr tip but holding string around a inch low for fixed crawl it shows weak. Why?
Fixed crawls change everything, first the draw length changes and the lower limbs starts out working the top significantly so you have to adjust the tiller reversed to a split set up, in other words you have to have around 3/16 or so more space between the bottom limb and the string than the top one 👍🏻
What is your draw length, Jeff? I'm looking to get a satori as a hunting rig and I'm new to traditional archery. I have a 29.5 in draw length and cant decide between the 17in and 19in risers. would finger pinch or tuning be an issue with the 17in?
Both risers are great and the biggest difference is the 19” offers holes for quiver mount and even if you go with a 17” you can run long limbs and get really good performance and have a 62” bow without finger pinch.
Hi Jeff Love ur vids . Where is the best place to purchase a Hoyt Satori as u have specified? And ur attached quiver was brand. Is Three Rivers to best place to purchase this setup? They will need to ship internationally as im in NZ. Thx KP.
I’ve got one just like it with medium limbs 45# in the buckskin color with the R-Core Greek Walnut grip and a TTT string I can sell it’s only a month old just pm me on Facebook messenger if you’re interested in it I’ve got a couple thanks!
For whatever reason the factory plastic grip on the Hoyt Satori seems to be causing me to get a nasty blister on my right thumb knuckle at the base of the joint. Any suggestions of what to do? Seems to be a flawed design which forces your hand into a high grip position and causes your knuckle to grind underneath the bottom of the plastic grip.
Hi Jeff, in this video you say the DAS 3K is equal to the Velos limbs. Currently, on 3 Rivers the Velos are $510 more than the 3K. Why would you pay that much more for the Hoyt Name if they are equal?
They are two completely different feelings, the super curve loads all the weight up front them seems to “ let off “ like a compound where the Velos is smooth all the way and loaded at the back it is really easy to get used to the Morrison just don’t go too heavy or they’ll work you hard.
Yes sir we’re actually setting up a new shop now that’s bigger we’ll be doing demo videos on all the models very soon we’ve got a video clip on our Facebook page of the new prototype double carbon recurve being shot unfinished it’s going to be awesome thanks!
@@hambone950 probably the long limbs on a 17” riser which would be a 62” bow very smooth at 28.5” but mediums would still be good for you if you wanted a 60” I’ve got a set of stock 55# medium limbs $150
Sir we don’t sell arrows or have any affiliation with any arrow company just use what performs best for us and there are lots more out there we’re going to test thanks
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Even when I shot compounds I used gold tip. Been shooting nothing but traditional now, I'm addicted! I switchd to easton last year for the smaller diameter...worst mistake I ever made. Arrows broke easy, didn't tune as well, and slipped out of my quiver because of the small diameter. Also if I heated the insert even slightly the heat would destroy the carbon. Thats with a heat gun which I've used on a ton of gold tips! I'll stick with my fat girls from here on out lol.