The Un-Fixable ABS Light Focus - Part 1 

Great job! I think this is a job for Forscan. You can see the configuration data in the as-built data. It will often tell you what it means, like maybe it is programmed to have the other sensors in it. Looking up the VIN in repair link shows it does not have front park assist so I wonder if by accident it got programmed in.

I had a 13 Escape in the shop. Ford dealer had "fixed a wire" for 400 bucks when it was in for a recall. Someone did a crappy repair on LF and the wheel speed sensor wire got wrapped up in the wheel. Dealer tech went to ABS module cut the RF input wire and wired the LF speed sensor to it. He then cut the "new 400 wiring" 3 times im assuming flipping the wires figuring out why he still had no LF speed sensor input. Ford dealer said it needed a "new module" and used could not be installed. 3500 was the quote to fix it. I charged him 350 to actually find and repair the problem. The dude needed a transmission shortly after. Im pretty sure it went to the same dealership to get the transmission. He is no longer a customer here.

Nice video and interesting case study. It’s always fun to undo other peoples work. I would cross over part numbers for the rear sensors, abs module and look at abs module programming since all those parts have been changed. I guess you might want to check the new hubs and see if the magnet lines up with the sensor when it is installed. I think Eric at SMA ran into that awhile back. I assume you tried another scanner to rule out the Tipton scanner sending you down a rabbit hole.

These couple of videos and Ivan's have been the most fascinating. I am just a DIY professional but I dont think I wouldnt have been able to figure them out. Who would have thought. I thought ABS would be the least complicated but not so anymore.

ABS module got programmed with software for the active parking assist. It then looks for the dual sensors and can't find them, so throws a code for the wrong sensor being installed. Took me 5 minutes of watching to come to this hypothesis. Now I have to wait for part 2 to see it confirmed or the actual solution.

So far, I've only watched until your question at 20:59. Where would I go next? Since you know the sensor is outputting a signal, but the module doesn't get it, I'd put the scope at the module connector to see if the same signal is getting all the way to the module. If so, I'd check to see if original brake module. Maybe the front bumper has been replaced with non park assist bumper? OK, now I'll watch the rest of part 1.

Wrong ABS module or wrong programming for the VIN...on to Part 2!

This is a really Tough one, Jake! Let's wait to see the outcome of An OE sensor! Fun Case😊

Fascinating problem, Jake! The fact that Ford predicted a "Installed Component Incorrect" fault, leads me to believe that there are other possible sensors for the rear wheels and, once the code is set with the wheels static, I imagine that the sensors it expects will either cause the "Hi" voltage to drop to a specific level below 12V, or there will be a data packet sent back when powered on. Very curious to watch Part 2!

Looks like you got a tough one! Since you happen to have the original abs module there at no cost, I might try swapping that back in just to rule out a software issue befoe replacing the sensors with oe. Its probably the sensors though. Looking forward to part 2!

I would verify by vin and build sheet whether or not it has park assist just Incase bumper had Ben replace then verify module softwares depending on that, also to verify you do or don’t have correct sensors. Based on all that

I am not sure if mentioned in video and missed it. But as fas as i know in order to retrofit auto park assist ONLY the REAR sensors should be replaced with two direction sensor. This was for a Fiesta so probably same is true for Focus. Might be useful. ABS unit remains the same. So also you should check the coding or reflash the ABS unit with VIN based firmware

Can't wait for part 2 😊

Fun one, car lot car. As for the wheel speed sensors if you have active park assist you can't swap front to rear for testing. Magneto-resistive sensor is used if equipped and is different as well as the wheel hub assy. Might even be required for them to be installed for the IVD to complete. Always have to think out of the box. Was it wrecked, wrecked and the RCM crash data cleared and corrupted the configuration data? >The ABS module stores the >RCM< serial number and verifies the serial number when the vehicle is started or the ignition is set to run or accessory. Over time, the ABS module learns the offset of the stability sensors inside the RCM . When a new serial number is found and the IVD Initialization procedure is carried out using a scan tool, the ABS module resets the offset number learned for Electronic Stability Control (ESC). Any other components swapped that could cause the IVD initialization to fail. I'd be checking the as built in all the components associated. Don't assume Ford is offering up all relevant information how all the components interact in the system that could cause a IVD failure.

First thing I'd do is phone a Ford dealer, get them to run the VIN and see whether the vehicle had the Active Parking Assist function from factory. If the vehicle has been crashed and rebuilt, they could have put the wrong front bumper on it with no sensors. One of my current vehicles had factory fog lights... But it doesn't have em now (still has the dash switch). In any case, if there are only 2 sensor types, and it's telling you it's seeing the wrong one... logical step would be try the other type of sensor.

12:17 Im in NWPA and pulling wheel speed sensors here results in destroying the sensor. Penndot pours the salt to the road like no other. Even on short winters its worse because they have to use their salt budget or they take it away for following year.

What do I think? First, I'd look for something more definitive on if this car has the park feature. It could have had some front end work done and the sensors left out. I don't know Ford. If this was a Chevy, I'd tell you to check the RPO codes. Secondly, the manual is telling you to get the car up to 12 MPH to run a sensor self test. I'm thinking this might be an "unclearable" code (or your scanner can't clear it) and only the self-test can clear it. After that, I'd check all the part number and watch to see if this is some strange hybrid/half-year car where it left the factory with parts for a different model and some custom programming.

So much fun with cars from used car lots. Everything they tell you about the car you have to take with a grain of salt. I guess the abs computer tests the sensors essentially looking for a particular impedance range. If it's out of range, then it says you got a wrong part. ABS systems are strange sometimes. I've put new brakes and rotors on two different makes of cars and afterward had to replace one of the abs sensors--both were rear sensors. I never touched the abs sensors! Next brake job, I unplug the battery! 🙃

Jake interesting diagnosis . Could the car be programmed to a vehicle having the park assist option ? That’s just a wild guess on my part. I would put in ford sensors and program from scratch . Heck you have tried everything else. Waiting for pt2. 😊

Could the vehicle have had a front end smash in the past and had the bodywork replaced without the front end sensors ? Might be worth trying to get hold of a “park aid” sensor and see what readings you get on the scope .

Great video brother, active is semi new you’re right it does park it. My 23 Lexus RX has it and it’s wild lol the wheel spins so fast you want to grab it. Parking is on point tho or it’ll stop if it can’t do it. I get scared to use it still lol

ABS control unit was replaced, perhaps it has the wrong calibration. Might have the calibration for an active park assist vehicle when the vehicle is not equipped with that option. My 2 cents!

Grasias

My suggestion would be to wash it down with gasoline and dry it off with matches.

IMHO, the module indicates it can sense an incorrect part so it must use a method to verify said part be it resistance, capacitance, inductance, or a combination unless it spits out a digital ID at power-on. Comparing a known good to the bad in those ways would be interesting. Also, what would cause an identifying value to alter? Corrosion or water somewhere? The module itself may only use front and rear comparator circuits and the rear has become weak or was damaged by welding an exhaust pipe or spike of some kind. Looking forward to what you find!

Maybe try to install an incorrect sensor if all correct sensors have been tried ). Maybe abs module thinks he is a park assist one. Waiting for part 2!

could be oem sensor needed could be that someone switch mix up the wire of the sensor could be wrong abs module could be wrong abs programming could be voltage to low to sensor what a heel to many guys play with this car LOL i know you already fix this car love these trouble tks

wow what to start with that is a tough one . think you have to go oem for pease of mind just so you can rule out some after market junk . however because you swapped the front to back and they worked in the front not so sure . car configuration wrong maybe thinks it’s got park assist . but i guess other models would be complaining out in correct config

Interesting, my first thought is, they physically plug in to all the connectors, but are they electronically dedicated/programmed for each wheel? IE, Original OEM sensors specific to each wheel

Thanks is everything Please add is Turkish laguage

Great video left us wondering what cause this we ar looking for p2 . how the ABS can tell if incorrect component installed ? using voltage corrent what i don't know

real interesting. this is where an as built would help. i'm thinking they are picking foreward or reverse via the tcm. since the sensors are working is the signals mismatched? as in the signal notch pull down from the front to the rear does not match per tire revolution or tire size mismatch is giving an inplauseable input signal count? new rear hub makes me wonder if the trigger wheel /magnet notch count is wrong. scope front and back roll 1 revolution and count the signal notches.

Jake, I think the newly replaced used ABS module may have been programmed wrong to the vehicle configuration. Maybe an avenue to check.

looks like the front has been painted(wheel arches clean compared to rear arches)so as a guess it does have park assist but wrong front bumper which means wrong rear sensors

What was the original issue, same codes? Or more likely after replacing the module for another ABS issue and replacement being the wrong module or program that is for the park assist feature. Which, according to your research, the car does not have. Even though I would think Titanium is the premier package, but maybe not the original trunklid, which is the reason for the replacement ABS being wrong. Looking up the sensors, both styles are only two wire sensors. So the bi-directional sensor must send a data stream and not a typical square wave. I would think, only the module for parking assist (or programed for parking assist, if same module) would be the only one to throw that specific code, since it's looking for the specific sensor. Unless of course it does have the park assist, in that case, yeah, wrong rear sensors. Can always compare wiring diagram colors between park assist and no park assist to ABS module too. We know you already have it fixed.... But fun taking a stab at it.

Had this message on a 21 f350 wrong wheel bearings were installed causing this code.The wheel speed sensors had the wrong type of output for the abs module.

Collision history? Perhaps it *IS*a park assist car, and a schlock body shop replaced the front with the wrong bumper. Check up front for abandoned wiring. Myself, considering that it is telling you it thinks it has the wrong parts, I would have tried the other variant a long time ago to rule that out. The car can't read the manual, after all, so if the others work, then bad docs . . .

Did the dealer program it as a parking aid car?

😊😊👍👍

first time i seen you stumped . you always figure it out

I may be missing the whole point, but......What was the original problem that caused all the parts changing? What was the original code? Is the ABS Module a Ford or aftermarket part? Why was the whole module assembly replaced? All the above would be my starting point, then like you said, the program may not be the right one in the second module. There's to many variables and if's here. On to part two.

How about the number of slots on the tone ring, also seen different tire sizes cause issues

I tested a 2010 toyota with a wheel speed problem if code is active, the module disables signal So you need to erase code to see signal

If this was my car I would fix the ABS light with a piece of black tape but I’m a Chevy man so I would not be driving a Ford Focus 😅

I think the correct oem sensors will fix it.

15:27 Here computer is right... because rear sensor isn't real (suitable) for front and also rear side, but front is good for front side but isn't for rear side because you say that, this car have parking assistant, so, someone mention here on comments check for more clues about repairing and replacing parts, who's knowing what they mount and dismount there... only to be sold that car... exist cases where check engine light is covered by black foil...

Are the sensors all supposed to be identical? Front to back

Wheel bearings tone magnet mounted wrong direction

Only halfway through. My thoughts are the vehicle thinks it has the self parking feature and the module is looking for a different kind of signal. And does the vehicle have a button for the self park. I've got a 2013 Escape Titanium. It has a button for the self park feature.

The topdon software looks to be the exact same as the thinktool are they running a “clone” or “knockoff” of another software?

Any signs it was in an accident? Was this bought at an auction by the lot that owns it? Was(were) the hub(s) replaced before or after the sales lot bought it?

Incorrect software/coding, or faulty control unit are what i would suspect

Can you swap in the original ABS module (just the electronic part) without doing all of the brake lines and the mechanical part? Like others have said, I wonder if the new module was programmed with the wrong data for the parking assist model.

Forscan will help you

Just wondering, why does the sensor output go from 12V to about 8V when testing with a magnet? Shouldn't the signal switch between 12V and 0V?

What type of test is the module doing to verify its the correct sensor? When you cleared the code it appears something happened in your waveform.

Wrong wheel bearing? They have the ones for active park and non active park

abs module test there for all signals if ok it has to be module ?

Is it possible the module has been coded wrong and is coded with park aid although the vehicle does not have the option?

Wrong part# on the module?

Promo sm 💐

Is it possible that the ECM or BCM was reprogrammed with the wrong ABS type (i.e as if an RPO code was needed but mechanic didn't have it and guessed wrong)?

I have a strong feeling you fell in a rabbit hole. If either sensor works in the front, it ONLY means the FRONT is accepting them. If neither works in the rear, then either there is a fault upstream of the sensor or reversed polarity, or the rear sensor is entirely different and NOT acceptable to the front wiring.