Hey yall, thanks for watching! I easily could have made this video 10 hours long going over every possible engine option. Surely everyone has an opinion and that's just what happens on the internet. When you make a decision publicly, someone will tell you why they would have done it differently. For us, most engines are too tall, the Cummins 4BT or R2.8 being other common examples. Now you know our WHY, and if you got to the end (bravo), you know the problem we're faced with. Thanks for being here, and stay tuned for some updates.
I say rear axle swap (and front axle if in budget) keeping the 5vz and the current transmission maybe a dana? 40/60? you will be in there doing brake lines and other odd and ins. this will also give you the opportunity to run true lockers for when things get a little to iffy. or you can do a limited slip or e-locker.
I wanted to reach out and question your assumption that the u joint is wearing out prematurely because of the angle in the horizontal plane in addition to the vertical plane. I'd like to help you appreciate that this is an incorrect assumption. The U joint will see this in exactly the same way as if the offset happened in the same plane so there is something else causing your issue. Consider that maybe the input and output are not aligned in both axis, that there may be a balance issue on your driveshaft or maybe even that there is a misalignment that is exaggerated as your suspension flexes that you haven't accounted for (maybe as the body rolls in corners for example)? A custom driveshaft and CV setup would be much cheaper and easier than the engine conversion. As much as i love an engine conversion I'm just trying to help out and a double CV jointed shaft would solve any misalignment issues. have a think about the problem a bit more. maybe even play with some drinking straws to try and visualise the problem of the UJ angles in the real world. if you want to go into more depth im happy to continue the discussion...
@@lobb_ltd Here's some more details... The lift is too tall to have the output flange and pinion flange parallel for single join set up. It would exceed the operating degree of a single ujoint. Therefore like you said a typical solution would be the CV joint on the Tcase side, and a single ujoint on the pinion side pointed at the Tcase. Rock crawler style. This however only works (from my reading and experience) if the pinion flange angle in relation to the Ujoint/driveshaft at ride height is between 0 and 2°. 1 or 2 degrees down to account for minor axle wrap under acceleration. With out set up, if I did that, there pinion Ujoint would still have to content with the East/West angle and would not be phased correctly. If you've un an offset axle with center Tcase output please continue to tell me of your successful experience. I have not found any other examples online with long term results in a highway driven vehicle. Cheers!
Since you're reading and replying to everyone earnestly I'll give my honest thoughts. As an owner of and huge fan of the 3.4 reliability i would keep it and supercharge it, check over the trans, and do a tundra rear axle. You could also get better u-joints and a custom driveshaft to mitigate repairs... From watching the videos and reading your replies, it sounds like you really just want to swap it. So do it! Do what you want man! A 2uz swap would be dope and you can still supercharge it if you want even more power. Sounds like you're trying to talk yourself into justifying what you really think sounds cool. It doesn't have to be logical. Just make the sickest Chinook you can and rock it across the world! We'll all watch the build either way. I hope whatever you do you put as much detail into the build as you did with this video 🤘🏻
Awesome comment Dillon, thank you! I am a huge fan of it too. And if I could easily just squeeze say 20 more hp out of it without forced induction, I probably wouldn't have made this video! Thanks for the encouragement, we appreciate it!
I have a 2UZ 4Runner and absolutely love it, that basing said I think an OM606 would be better on the long run. More fuel range is never a bad idea, also more torque to deal with larger tires and the weight of a camper. From the diagram you get reliable, economic, and powerful all in one.
My biggest priority would undoubtedly be parts availability. On a trip as long as the one you guys took, something is GOING to go wrong. Expecting nothing to go wrong is not wise, so I’d find a lot of comfort in knowing wether at im near Fairbanks alasaka or near Tierra Del Fuego I can get parts for my vehicle.
I say swap it with with the 1/2uz and swap the rear axel to a center pumpkin axel or keep the engine currently in it and just swap the axel for a center pumpkin one. Also really enjoyed the video and gave me something I could take out of the information you gave us about your entire thought process. I think you did this on paper it really showed you what you wanted to so that way you can see it in black and white and not just in your head.
The om6xx series is amazing, just one thing to keep in mind when travelling into the wild: Om605/606 are 4-valve motors. They are still exceptionally reliable by modern standards (as long as you get the mechanical fuel pump variant), but previous generations (om602/603 or even 617) are easier to work on, and more commonly found in remote places. Fuel economy on an om603 will still be fine, only modification that's advisable is adding an intercooler.
@@pavelsandul oh snap! Tell me more! I have a couple series2a’s one is a 109 that I want to drop a diesel in. Was thinking the 2.0 TDI but I’m intrigued with the OM605 as well. Hit me up.
@@Fparrish Diesel Pump UK has an adapter to lt77 or r380 bolts up real nice I made some engine mounts and sits really nicely still have a bit of work to do to get it to sit nice.
Hello mate 😅 , in my opinion if you consider: keep your engine is good and reliable, prove it self already. Get a transfer case from 80 sereis fix your problem , I believe the less amount of modifications … because you have already a good set up !!! Yes do all the modifications in the camper for comfort and in the cab to , all gadgets ant tech you need…. One comfort , two cab tech, three 80sereis transfer case ….. All the best 🇨🇦🇵🇹
Dude you missed the nissan TD27T! It's used and PLENTIFUL and CHEAP and RELIABLE and gets good fuel economy. They use it in basically every country in the world. All through south and central america, europe, africa, asia, middle east. It's in forklifts, excavators, london cabs, nissan trucks, transport trucks, etc. I got a parts vehicle with a low km (100k kms) donor engine, transmission, and everything i needed for the swap for 1200 CAD. I did the conversion almost 10 years ago now and haven't had to touch anything since. Only thing I did was re-seal the injection pump which is an easy diy job at home. You can get parts for them literally anywhere in the world and they dont really need parts as they are fully mechanical with gear driven timing, there's literally nothing to break! I swapped one into my Pathfinder and its a BEAST. Fluids and filters, that's it. Bosch VE mechanical pump. Again, can be serviced anywhere in the world. I'm telling you man it's one of the ultimate in simple, powerful, durable, international traveling engines. Otherwise good video!
Just some T-case info, the NP200 is a passenger offset t-case that shares a lot of parts with the NP205. 2:1 low range and large cast iron case. If you wanted to get crazy and have a bulletproof forever option, you can convert a NP205 to pass side drop using NP200 parts. I've got an NP200 sitting around if you decide to go this route.
Sorry for all the comments 😄 but I am in the same boat at the moment. I have a 1967 Land Rover Series 2A 109 that I am about to rebuild and was contemplating on which engines to go with, but I think I have my answer now. Will stick to factory standard 2.25 Petrol engine
Nicely drawn up! Our 80's overland rig has a diesel conversion that has cut fuel cost by half - now running on 8,5L/100km (11,8km/L) fully loaded with big MT tires 🔥
@@ToyotaWorldRunners Peugeot XD3TE Engine, upgraded with a Volvo M47 5-speed gearbox (4 original) and longer gearing on the axles as the diesel is only economic with lower RPM as the petrol engine
This is a very look at a real world application of different engines. I ran into the same discussion with my rig, when I blew the head gasket and scraped a cylinder wall. Decided to get the same engine, rebuild the one that's in the rig right now - except build it better. When its done in around a year, swap it back in and enjoy! I can't wait to see how the Chinook 2.0 turns out! I sense some amazing things on the horizon.
Keep it Toyota :) I'd keep the current engine. Simple, Makes OK power, not the worse fuel economy, Iron, not aluminum (some people don't care about that but and Iron block is stronger.). The 2UZ is very nice (Have it in my LX470) but parts are more expensive (It does have a iron block as you mentioned)
Toyota all the way. With the Toyota 4.2l straight 6 cylinder diesel engines, you were a little off track. There was the 1hz and the 1hdt as you said, but then there came the 1hd-ft which was the 24 valve engine that was then upgraded to the 1hd-fte a couple of years later by changing the mechanical injector pump to the electronic controlled injector pump. The last of the 80 series came with the 1hd-ft engines, then the 100 series replaced the 80 series and were released with the 1hd-fte engines. Both the ft and fte engines are very sought after and are still regarded by many as the best diesel engines that Toyota ever made. 👍
If they weren't so troublesome and costly to acquire it might be worth it. The 1KD with mechanical pump seems to be the only toyota diesel option thought would work for us on all three ascents of power reliability and economy.
I have 2004 Tundra with the 2uz and I can attest it is an excellent engine. It has 288,000 miles (about 2,376,000 km 😂), and has never required more than an oil and filter change. Oh, I did change the timing belt, water pump, and coils at about 200k. It’s not a speed demon, but the torque curve is a great blend of low end grunt and on road get out of the way. My wife wants me to sell it, but I just can’t! For your problem, you might look at Land Rover transfer cases. They are extremely robust and have the offset design. There are also a ton of transmission and engine adapter kits made for them. The Range Rover classic or first gen Discovery would probably be your best bet, and there are thousands in junk yards across North America. You may balk at putting LR parts on a Toyota, but I would argue LR made the best drivelines and suspensions. You hear about LRs with bad engines and electronics, but I’ve never heard of one with driveline or suspension issues.
You're already on an 80 series chassis. I vote for using the HF2A case designed to be in that chassis. It's an excellent t-case that can be configured for full-time or part-time as you desire. As far as the motor goes, you won't go wrong with either of your two lead options. If the plan is to return to full-time long distance travel, the OM606 has a slight edge courtesy of fuel range.
A couple things here, TDI engines are available in larger sizes, such as the 3.0L V6, which can be found in models like the Audi Q7, VW Touareg, and Porsche Cayenne (up to 2016). Another notable diesel option is from the Mercedes GL series. When it comes to performance, BMW’s straight-six diesel engines are highly regarded, offering exceptional reliability and efficiency, very popular engine in Europe for off-road builds, custom vehicles. It’s worth noting that diesel engines, while not as popular in the U.S., have been widely used in Europe for decades. Common rail technology, for example, has been in use for over 25 years and is well-established in Europe, where vehicles routinely cover high mileage and handle heavy towing without issue. In contrast to the common use of V8 engines in the U.S., European manufacturers have turned to powerful 3.0L diesels as an alternative, offering similar performance with greater fuel efficiency. Given the global availability of parts and the proven reliability of European diesel engines, particularly BMW’s straight-six, investing in this technology remains a sound choice for those looking to maximize both power and efficiency. Your Mercedes option is great too but probably you can get cheaper straight 6 from BMW. Torque is king and you can get this only from diesel engines. PS - ford has 3.0 V6 power stroke which was in f-150 😛
For your big drive line problem, the LJ7x and KZJ7x came with the R151 transmission mated to a Toyota split case transfer, same as on the 60 and many 40 series. For that transmission you also have OEM bell housings that will bolt on the L series engine, but also the 1KZ, 1KD and 2Kd engine. Which petrol engine that will bolt on to those bell housings I have no clue about as 90% of cruisers and trucks over here are delivered with diesel engines. I know you get a bell housing that will match up with the R engine bolt pattern, for example the 20R engine. Other options are a H41, H42 or H55 with a split transfer case or H150 or H151 with a HF2A or HF1A transfer. Nothing wrong with a permanent 4x4 system 😁
The 606/5 are indirect injection engines , Cummins 6bt is a good example of an old DI engine.Its also not your typical diesel doesn't like to be lugged and the fuel economy is not that great ,will have trouble starting in really cold temps but boy they are my favorite diesel engine just love them .
OM606 is my pick all the way, been wanting to put one of these in my Jeep for awhile. Another thing you should consider is noise, I think these are relatively quiet compared to other diesels.
@@ToyotaWorldRunners there are some random ones on eBay - not sure how much shipping would be to Canada though. Best of luck, seeing a build of the OM606 would be awesome! Whatever you end up going with, love the channel!
The gap in fuel economy is actually smaller. Fully loaded, almost none of the diesels mentioned, will give you 10km/l. Most probably, you'd be lucky to get 8. Also, maintenance costs on gas engines are lower than on diesels. Its a pity your 80 series chassis didn't come with the standard 4.2 TDI, but engine swap to diesel is purely preferential, not a necessity in my opinion. Here in Africa, reliability is all that counts. Will not be breaking any speed records on offroad conditions. Excellent video guys!
I agree. The older diesels like a 1hdt or OM606 will give you max 10km/l. I drive a very heavy 3500kg/7700lb 80 series and I average 7,7 - 8km/l on a trip.
@@GeertB84 And a loaded 2uz in our Chinook I'd probably be lucky to get 4-5 km/l... It's all speculation really but there's certainly something to consider here. We managed to get 8km/l on the highway a few times with the 5vz we have currently.
@ToyotaWorldRunners there are plenty of old SAF Hilux's around with Lexus conversions, but almost none of them are used for overlanding purposes. Mostly used as offroad toys. But the combination of the strong, reliable old hilux and the power and reliability of the Lexus V8's do make for a great conversion.
Sticking to factory standard as far is possible, is best in my opinion. Getting the tool for the job, or the right vehicle for the journey in this case, will guarantee the best possible results.
I love your stuff! I love the fact your fabricator and you understand engines!. do it right! Put the 2UZ and bring a couple extra timing belts. That’s the only problem I had with mine and I put 420,000 miles on it! Thanks for the inspiration and great videos
I agree drive what you have. I got a 97 reg cab tacoma 4x4 auto with a highroof shell. 16mpg. Yee its not fast but I love the truck. I also have a 96 taco with the v6 ext cab and I also have a 5lug 2rz. I am comtorable with tacoma engines the 1st gen ones, very reliable.
I'm loving the rebuild of your Chinook "series". As I wasn't here for the first rendition. I'm cheap... My choice would be to keep what you have and swap transmission/T case. Then use the $ saved for future expeditions and craft brews.
As a v8 truck owner I say go with the 2uz with either the offset transfer case or make a custom rear axle. I’m guessing you would have fun making the custom axle but going back to your thoughts when you built the chinook keeping as many parts as possible in stock form is a good idea. This makes it much easier to source parts in an emergency. So I’d say 2UZ with 80 series transmission and transfer case.
Thanks for putting this video together! I've been really curious about the long term experience with the center output, offset axle. I'm building an 89 4runner on an 80 series chassis, with basically the same drive train you guys have been running and wondered about how the u-joints would hold up. I'm going to stick with the current plan (3.4/R150/dual cases) as I probably won't put more than 5k miles on it per year and it will be a street-legal crawler, not a long-range overlander. My 80 series has a 2UZ swap done to it and I LOVE IT!!! I'm pretty sure that's the route you're going, and it's a really good choice. I get 17mpg on the highway, and it's so much more fun driving it compared to the 3FE that was in it before. I'd do the same thing in the 4runner project, but I really want it to be a manual and can't wait for the dual cases.
I can’t speak to the other choices but I have the 1GR FE Z in my 2011 Tacoma and it’s currently at 247,000 miles, and still running strong. I’ve driven it across the US 8 times, across Canada once, and through Baja 3 times. You’re right though that there’s not a lot of people online who have swapped out to that engine. So definitely a grey area for your build.
@@inked365 I absolutely love my 2nd gen Tacoma 1gr I think it’s way smoother than my 5th gen 4Runner 1gr which has almost 40 more horsepower than the taco 1gr!
The H55F 5 speed with the manual shift late 60 series TC is pretty durable. It's nice having the pumpkins aligned too. I get the feeling that you really want the Mercedes D.
Well it sounds like its a bit too late but one awesome option is the OM603. They are fairly common in canada when compared to the 606 and they are reasonable in price. I have picked up 2 of them over the years and eventually one will be going into my toyota pickup lol. You could also use a landrover LT230 t-case to give you the offset needed.
I feel like the nissan td42 engine should of made the cut legendary diesel! but i think staying with a toyota engine would be awesome! cant wait for the build videos :)
Loved my 1HZ in my HZJ73. It’s sacrilege but I’d strongly consider an OM617a. I have an 84 300TD that I bought with 240k on it and have over 700k on it now. Only issues I have had in my almost 500k with it have been the water pump, o ring between the block and oil filter housing and timing chain and tensioner. Just normal maintenance and valve adjustments other than that.
The 2uz-fe found in the 98 and 99 Land Cruiser 100 series are non interference and will run on any octane fuel. They are the ones that are considered the million mile engines. They could have been considered 2 million mile engines but Toyota bought them to analyze them. lol. I have one in my 99lc with 325,000 miles that runs like new.
Awesome man! Yeah I've been watching since Mexico and I had to watch some of the earlier videos to catch up. To me, it really sounds like you really want to swap the motor out, so do it! I think us viewers would appreciate anything you do with your build. Here's my thoughts: everything under Sunday is Land Cruiser. So keep it Land Cruiser. Axles, Drive shaft, transmission and motor = 80 series Land Cruiser! Body lift and cut the firewall. 1HZ with a turbo or HDJ FT/FTE. After all it is the world first Land Cruiser Chinook....
It's been stated before: the legendary OM602 is a better option then OM605/OM606. It's the only one with direct injection. All of them have aluminum heads, but there are less problems with the gasket on the OM602 making it almost as reliable as the all iron cast OM617, but with considerable more power. Milage will be a little worse with out common rail, but more reliable and burns all kinds of oil like fuel. Realisticly, it does about 7-8km/l. You should be able to get one around 4000$.
Dear guys, I saw all your videos from when you initially bought the Chinook. And, you forgot the Nissan marvel, the absolute bulletproof TD27t. I install it in the year 2002, yes 22 years ago, in my 1991 Toyota HiLux, with 80.000 [km] in the engine and, drove it up to today and, have 250.000 [km] without doing nothing, not even regulating valves. The 1991 in my country, Chile, is the last Hilux arrived with rear and front rigid axel, like you Land Cruiser Chinook but, with centered rear diff. The only power modification I made, from the begging, was to eliminate the Waste Gate, getting in a cold and humid day a max of 1.2 [bar] turbo boast, not the factory, Waste Gate regulated, 0.7 [bar]. Having a turbo gauge is easy not to use over 1 bar for more than a minute, only to prevent any possible issue. Martin Mündnich
Wow, that is a huge compliment to the TD27. I know they are very popular in South America. We don't see many up here, which is a shame! Sounds like a good one.
@@ToyotaWorldRunners I just sent you an email to toyotaworldrunners with some pictures, if you want to know more details, please let me know. My one was imported used from Japan. They should be more there.
I would stick with the 5UZ. Put some headers on it, port/port-match the heads, may tweak the tune a bit, and call it a day. Swapping that axle would be cake compared to an engine swap. Just find something with the right width that can handle the weight. You aren't making a ton of power, so I don't think you need to be concerned too much on what center section you use - just something that is easy to service. I would skip the 1GR/FE. The reason you don't see them being swapped is they are stupid expensive for what they are. A short block is going to run you 3-4k USD, long block is more like 10-12k. I've got one in my 5th gen 4Runner - MPGs are not great, power is ok, but you don't hit the power band until 2700 RPM.
You also missed Toyota's unicorn engine, it was only produced for a couple years I believe, it is the 1hdft, same as the FTE variant with 4 valves per cylinder but still mechanical injection, that's the ultimate engine. Also when will you start delivering to Australia, would love to buy some merch
6500lbs fully loaded is pretty impressive. Currently my 94 FZJ80 fully loaded is 5990. I've been trying to work out how to keep it under 6000 but very well equipped. The next set of tires I'm looking at is probably going to save me about 40-44lbs or more across four tires. Currently I get 13.4-15mpg. I think your poor fuel economy numbers come from over stuffed 80s. I'm on 35s with a part time transfer case. I'm kind of shocked you didn't have the 3RZ on this list for gas motors. My dream camper build would probably be similar to my old 92 pickup build. SAS, 3RZ, dual cases R151F. Took the 3VZ out and put the 3RZ in and it was superior in every way. Probably not better than a 5VZ I guess. LS are definitely all over the world though. Considering you made it around south america with a 5vz with no issues. Why would you have sudden issues with a normal V8 workhorse? Or why would you have more problems with an LS than a UZ? I'm a diehard toyota fan. But I spent more money than I should have reworking my 1FZ, when for the same money I could have probably just dropped an a chevy LS style engine into the land cruiser.
Why do custom housing on the rear axle? Why not just put a Pickup/Truck axle in the rear. Alternatively put a beefier trans/transfercase in from the landcruiser and fix your driveshaft issues. You can put OM606 with Landcruiser trans/TCase. Or swap 2UZ with H151/Tcase from landcruiser. That last issue seems pretty simple to sort out actually. Based on the end of the video and the fact that you already have more content in the pipeline I have a feeling I know where this is going. A lot of people don't consider that diesel have expectancy for different gearing than petrol for highway driving too. So that adds to the list of swap costs.
1/2UZ with 100 series (UZJ100) tranny & t-case is the simplest choice. You just put together puzzles that do fit each other. Won't comment on diesel, as I've just went the other way around, after wheeling a diesel for 8 years I went with a V6 2nd gen 4 Runnner (5VZ swapped) and simply love every aspect of it; the rev range, the power, flexibility. I wouldn't ever go back to diesel Aw! And there is one more solution. HZJ105 with 1HZ motor used to have R151f transmission, unlike all other 80/100 series which normally have H150/151. Thus in nature exists a t-case that mates to R150f and has a passenger drop rear prop shaft. This is also a bolt on, so cheaper, eaiser and requiring much less fabrication. It would solve your U-joint problem and angled shaft.
I love my thick rod 1uz I'm currently swapping into 92 P/U but it's definitely an EXPENSIVE motor to maintain/build/upkeep. Lots of fiddly little parts, needs computer if you want reliable, but I'm not sure how reliable aftermarket ECU would be to a rebuilt OEM computer. When they are running they are amazing. But getting mine ready for swap I'm buried in a list of little things that need replacing and fixing for lots of money, plus 8cyl vs 6 costs 2 more cyl for repairs 😂
I've run a 1KZ at the same time as an OM606. The Toyota engine is sweet and has decent power for a small vehicle but has bad fuel mileage. The Merc engine is a big step up on power with still decent mileage and runs on any diesel, oil, vegetable oil...
It was really great to see your thought process. I love how practical and thought out it was. I will say my two cents but you do you. I the the Mercedes inline 6 would be worth it. Especially since I think this vehicle will a truck for many trips. I think the extra power and range will really go a long ways in how well a car like this performs on the trips you do. that say you do you i could see why would choose any of the final three options. I really appreciate the detail I watched the entire video. I will be tuning in to watch more!
For me it is very simple and a no brainer. Replace rear axle. It would be the least expensive option and the simplest to do. Yes you could go with a $30k+ trophy truck axle but you could easily do a $2k axle that would get the job done reliably.
The 5.3 LS would likely get better fuel economy than your current Toyota V6 or Toyota V8. It would certainly have more power than the V6. I don't think it's as durable an engine. Also, changing valve springs and lifters would be advised on a higher mileage LS engine.
A lot of people thing is wishful thinking when I say that you can run a 5vzfe supercharge on regular gas, it took me a good part of 2 years .I tried a piggie back an additional injector, and there was a lot of money spent .I worked for toyota for over 35 years .The safety device and system are hard to overcome. The ecm will not let you. The 5vzfe do not respond very well to a lots of fuel .The knock sensors are very sensitive it will pick up the knock sound of the charger, so you must take that into account. The oil use is not too par. There is a list of things you must do to many to list on the comments. It can be done 😊
“It makes 190horsepower, it’s not a powerhouse”. My 1993 hzj75 makes less than 120horsepower 😂 reliable as anything though. Still gets 11L/100km which I’m very happy with
I think the 2UZ would be the best, super reliable, no turbo/lines to worry about. Eventually the OM605/6 would be better but in practicality and reliability the 2UZ shines, and it sounds friggin awesome with a proper exhaust!
First of all Great Video! Would like to share some stuff, i am based in Europe and my rig is a 1991 W460 G Wagon with 2.3 Petrol Inline 4 (Basically Mercedes 22RE) I considered and am still considering a 606 swap, talked to many people that have them stock in later model G wagons and also workshops that specialize in swapping them into G Wagons. It is not possible to get 10 liters /100km out of an OM606 while not behing a road block for trucks. Fully loaded you will get around 12 to 14 L/100km. (around 7 to 8km /l) Very common swap for G Wagons here in Europe. Old W460 G Wagons weigh around 2.2t empy with front and rear steel bar, winch and 33s. Fully loaded 2.8 to 3 Tons. I think you are missing a big point here though, in my opinion the big economy difference between diesel and petrol comes into play when offroading, especially in low range. Where a petrol in 4low crawling along will get anywhere from 20-35L/100km, a Diesel wont surpass 20L/100km, giving you much more range. Basically you just have to be able to carry the fuel, 158L is a big tank already. 1000km range is plenty for almost all parts of the world.
I have 280k on the 2005 GX4.70, I just done the second timing belt , it was 100,000 overdue! Still runs perfect, never have had premium fuel in it, maybe that’s why the 02 sensors are throwing a code? 😮
Love the 1gr, I don’t think you’re seeing them a lot because 4Runner, Tacoma and troopy owners aren’t getting rid of them. That’s my guess, I’ve kicked around the idea of a 1gr in my 80, but I love my gear driven t case
I'll get a lot of hate for this since its a toyota channel, but the good old Chebby 5.3 /6.0 LS based would be my choice . Can fix it with a hammer and a flat head on the side of the road . Decent power and fuel economy, runs on crap fuel and you'll be surprised how easy parts availability is for them internationally. Having said that I also like the early 1UZ for being bullet proof and simple
I don't agree with the statement about the engine you have, were you have to haul 1200 lbs more than its intended purpose. Engines only see the work they have to do through the gearing, which is torque multiplying. The higher the gear ratio, the less work the engine has to do for the given load, but the slower you go. Small engines, geared well, and driven appropriately, can haul amazing loads for the displacement. ;) Also, U joints. I'm working in the logging industry on Vancouver island. I'm a certified mechanic working on the pickup trucks we take out into the bush. What I have found, is if it has an SKF badge on it, it won't last. So, I know you've already picked something, but when it comes to Ujoints, Go OEM or Spicer.
Actually , Young Man , the OM-605/6 Engines ARE indirect injection Mechanical Pump with a Simple Electronic Control unit . The EDC is quite reliable and basically replaces a Throttle Cable/Linkage . They can BOTH make Very Good power for not much money .
Diesel doesn’t necessarily equate to cost efficiency, what it does do is give you added range. That’s the reason most remote expeditions have gone with diesel. More distance per gallon.
Easier formula for fuel cost : 50000km / 6km/l x $1.28/l = $10,666.67 For the diesel to save you $6000 over the gas (to make up for the swap cost difference) the trip would have to be 64,285.7km long. Yes, you made me do math on my time off
@@OTRWA ha! We’re at $1.55 per liter here in Canada (Alberta). I miss the days in the late 1990 when gas was $0.39/L, and $10 from pops was enough to run my Supra for the weekend. 👌🏻
Yo! Loved the video my dudes you had me laughing many many times with the mad scientist math's, pictures and diagrams. I didn't know your rear driveline was offset and just my 2 cents, I would fix the driveline offset and keep the tried and tested 5vz. I don't believe the engine will fail you in the middle of nowhere. I do believe a u joint will.
It is crazy how much our brains are in the same wheel! The 2uz and 1uz were my first opinions when you brought up switching engines. I am a Master mechanic with 15 years experience, and I personally believe the 2uz is the most reliable v8 out there in the stock platform. I have a 100 serious cruiser, first gen tundra, third gen runner, and second gen pickup. If you are to go with a 2uz, obviously get a high quality timing belt / water pump kit. Bring extra intake manifold gaskets and an extra starter in case the starter goes out. Extra O2 sensors and high quality power steering vacuum switching valve just from experience. I suspect you will only be able to get 9 to 10 mpg with the weight of your Chinook. I'm running 35's on my tundra and get 10 to 12 mpg. Curious to see what transmission you opt for. Have had no issues with mine but would believe that is the weakest link in that particular drive train if I were to say there is one. Look forward to more videos 🤙
Great advice, thank you! I would be keen to get a 5 speed behind a 2uz to see if I could squeeze some more mags out of it. Ideally the H151F trans and keep the offset rear axle all standard 80 series.
@@ToyotaWorldRunners also just a thought. I put mk3 supra seats into my second gen pickup. Installed with very little modifications. The seats are fantastic with tilting bottom cushion adjustment to support the legs. very comfortable. Not sure how they would fit in a first gen but might be worth looking into
G wagons have this issue they just phase the driveshafts a little. Since you're not rock crawling your motor home I would just do some custom shafts with constant velocity joints.
The om606 would be so dope in the chinook! I put the 2.0 bhw tdi I’m my sunrader I’m hoping it holds up. Very close to hitting the road so I guess we will see soon. If I could go back tho I would have done the om606
Super interesting video for sure. For the driveshaft issue, I'd check into maybe using a double U-joint (cardan) style driveshaft with an internal slip yoke design. As far as the motor, I personally would avoid anything with an aluminum block (e.g. 1UZ) given your vehicle weight and due to the potential to warp the deck in the event of over heating; cast iron is where it's at for your application (the differential between expansion of the aluminum head and cast iron block shouldn't be an issue for any good quality head gasket). The 2UZ has a cast iron block and would be a superior choice over the 1UZ, while largely being the same high quality Toyota engine otherwise. The 1FZ-FE would be heaven if you could fit it under the hood and don't mind the terrible gas mileage. I think it if were me, I'd either keep your 5VZ there (maybe just do some mild porting, then upgrade the cams and exhaust system a bit for more power up high when cruising on the open roads) or have you considered perhaps the 3RZ-FE? It's basically a 22RE on steroids; it's used in the Tacomas so plenty of parts worldwide. Cast iron block, forged crank.. the block can easily handle 300-400 HP all day long - maybe put a mild street turbo on it with manually adjustable boost. The 3RZ is a very durable motor and super easy to work on (I'd lose the balance shafts myself though) and with a turbo running 10-12 PSI you should be able to push 200-225 HP whenever needed. Running a super charger on your existing 5VZ motor would be great for power when crawling as well, but having a blower break in while Central America? Probably not a real fun time...
Love this! I have a 3vzfe t100 im hoping to do something similar to. What gearing do you have? Also no consideration for the turbo 5vz? My parents just did the pamir last week!
Seems simple. Just decide whether you want to build a custom axle, or switch to the land cruiser transfer case configuration, and the. Just go from there. I'm interested either direction you go. Interesting that you're not too concerned about the fit of the 2UZ. It will be pretty well stuffed in there. If I wanted one for reliability (as in a long distance adventure rig like this), I'd probably start with a freshly rebuilt engine and trans (that's how you will make that million mile mark).
I have an 80 series with a 1FZ and my brother has GX470 with the 2UZ. Do not expect the 2UZ to be better than the 1FZ on gas lol. Phenomenal motor otherwise.
You could just swap a stock rear end solid axle that's center in, transfer all your brackets, damper and spring mounts etc. over to the 100 series rear end...
I don’t think a double cardan will solve your problem since it requires the yoke/diff to point at the transfer case. You can only adjust diff angle in one plane so I’m guessing you’ll end up with vibration and premature wear due to the offset. Isn’t there a factory axle with centered diff you can swap in? Seems like centered diff axle would be the best solution for this problem. Assuming you can get replacement shafts easily. Centered rear axle also has the added advantage of carrying one spare axle that works on either side.
What about FREE FUEL. One thing to add that I don't hear many talk about, is that you can get nearly free fuel with a diesel engine and a secondary tank for WVO (waste veggie oil). Deep fryer oil for those who weren't aware. Any resuraunt/bar & grill/mall food court, will have a WVO bin out back for when they clean out their fryers. You do need to set it up properly with a filter system when filling, and a pre heat system. And you will still need to start the vehicle on diesel to warm up the WVO tank. But you'd be hard pressed to find a more economical solution. Especially for long term travel. You can also run those small diesel heaters off that oil. Grew up on a farm with an oil burning furnace for winter. Mostly used old engine oil. I'm sure you could find a way to use old engine oil as well as WVO. But WVO would be cleaner. Some places will even pay to have you empty their WVO bin. "Diesel WVO conversion" for those interested. P.S. my vote for the OM6xxx Mostly cause I fell in love with a youtube datsun fairlady with an OM6 conversion.
WVO is the worst thing to suggest, Sub-optimal atomisation in the injectors leads to raw fuel (veg oil) striking the cylinder walls, particularly before the engine is fully warmed up. The piston rings scrape a portion of this oil into the crankcase. For a while, the proportion of fuel in the engine oil is low enough so as not to cause a problem, but eventually it leads to "polymerisation" and black gunky sludge build-up. For a while, the oil filter captures most of it, but eventually it clogs and goes into bypass, and then the sludge builds up everywhere inside the engine, leading to clogged lubricant passages among many other problems. If the fuel leads to deposit formation inside the injector nozzles, the resulting poor spray patterns won't help matters, and are likely to accelerate the above process. Symptoms include rusty or corroded pumps, injection system and upper engine. Bore scoring and piston wear. Plus any mechanical fuel pump like the OM606 Bosch fuel pump suffers over time in the same way as the engine. There are many elements within Diesel fuel that helps lubricate the fuel system and just like it would not be a great idea to deep fry food in Diesel it's not a good idea to use WVO in an engine that was never designed for it.
@@fraserwright9482 thats why you don't run it cold. I made specific mention of a pre heating system. To clarify, you start the engine on diesel and run it until the wvo tank & fuel lines are up to adequate temperature. Depending on the system, it then either lights up an indicator letting you know that the wvo fuel is ready, and you manually switch fuel sources, or you have a system that automatically switches when it's ready. There are many people who have built such a system and had none of the issues you've implied, provided it was properly setup. My personal experience with it was in a ford excursion with a 7.3l. It's reliable enough that I also recall it was featured as a build project for a network TV show called X-treme 4x4 in a suzuki samurai with a diesel conversion. (Early 2000's if memory serves) In anycase, it's been around for years. There's a plethora of information on durable & reliable setups.
2UZFE all the way.. I own a 100 with a 2uz, I have 80s with 1fz's and an early sc400 with forged/beefed up connecting rods. SC400 has had ecu issues and the 1fz's besides reliability is really not gonna be a huge upgrade power wise from your current engine... 2uz is proven and toyota, and is a silky smooth v8 with good power torque, it will move that Chinook no issues
not true as in most developing countries diesel is used in all trucking and machinery and diesel is usually cheaper than petrol and most 4 wheel cars are diesel
This is not true. Where should that be ? 75 \% of all 79/76 etc worldwide are Diesels...eps. Asia and Africa...after all, all trucks run on Diesel, nevr ever petrol, even in China !
My vote is 2UZ with an LC transfer case. It’s the route I’m planning on if/when my 1fz needs replacing in my 80. I’d love to see some in depth quality videos on swapping that drivetrain into an LC80 based vehicle, there’s not much that goes into the specifics on RU-vid that I’ve found.
Ditch the lift for Portals, to sole the u joint problem. Do whatever motor you want. Personally I Like working on a inline more if I have too away from a garage.
