The Voron Switchwire Is A BEAST - CoreXZ 3d Printer 

Thanks brotha! I am bummed I didnt get a chance to meet you at MRRF but I did get to see the Tridex in person which was awesome. 🔥

Where do I learn about doing this? I have an ender 3 v2 I could use

It's a great project if you have an Ender 3 Pro, V2, or S1 you don't use or that needs a new hotend or stepper or motherboard etc.

Siboor

If you swap out everything that is called for on the ender 3/switchwire BOM list you're looking at $300-$400. Plus you will need to print out the parts in ABS or ASA. Your biggest costs will be the ras Pi, linear rails, stepper motors, board and gears for the extruder.

This could be a good reason to make a switch wire. i still have an ender 3 in a box so I might look into this.

I am also looking into doing a partial conversion from my Ender3 that has 2 of the 4 linear rails needed & has a direct drive hotend. Switchblade looks like a nice way to salvage Ender3 hardware without the price of all new CoreXy hardware! I hope my plans work out!

Siboor sells a kit for the Ender 3 conversion now, like other comments have said, maybe 300-400$

you really should not

@@Ender_Wiggin Why not?

@@Felipeh999 Woops i thought you were going to convert a corexy voron into the switch wire. you can do it for the biqu b1 but you may not see that big of a different unless the biqu bq is just bad. Also you will still need to buy a lot of extra stuff just to be see real improvements. Things you can already due to the biqu b1

@@Ender_Wiggin oh no, why would I convert a core XY into a xz? lol I just want to do it for fun, I don't think the conversion would actually improve print quality.

I have too. Both of my bed heated wires split in half. It first happened after 29 hours, so I put the cables in sleeving and inside the cable chain. Then the other wire broke after 450 hours. The PTFE wires from McMaster I used to replace the bed wires seem to be working better. The McMaster wires have a better weave of the wire strands and thicker insulation.

You have to use wires rated for cable chain, such as ones with a PTFE sleeving

@@jakoob874 it came from the LDO kit…

It depends. If you like tinkering them build a voron. If you just want the printer to work out of the box then get a prusa. Though after the tuning the switchwire can print quite a bit faster than a prusa with its stock profiles (I'd say 3-4x faster consistently, even 5-9x if you really push it) and it can be tuned to a very similar level of reliability however the klicky upgrade is a must here. Lastly the switchwire is also capable in printing more materials with the optional stock enclosure, however this is mostly just small-medium sized ABS parts.

To me, buying an Ender 3 first and print with it stock then only upgrade it to a Voron when you have fairly knowledge about 3d printer. But if you already have knowledge about 3d printer then go ahead. Buying kit and build from scratch is much more enjoy ride but only when you know what you are doing :)))

Tons of ender conversions. Honestly for printing abs/asa the bed of a ender can get to 100/110c way easier than the prusa bed can. Its "slightly" smaller in print surface and has a stronger heater.

Build from scratch, print parts on the ender and sell it when the switchwire is built

Late to the game on this thread, but figured I would chime in. I am about 90% of the way through an Ender 3 V2 to Switchwire conversion, and I can say that if money is no object, the conversion is pretty awesome. I've learned a ton, and the difference in print quality from the ender to SW is outrageous. That being said, I haven't tracked how much I've spent on the conversion, but I can tell you without hesitation that I have spent a LOT more than just going with an LDO kit or the like (if you count the price of the original ender, I've easily spent V2.4 money on this conversion). Another consideration to make is that there is no kits. You're on your own to source the things you need, and the conversion I went with did not have a BOM, so I had to guestimate as best I could based on the CAD files for the conversion, as well as the official Switchwire BOM. Probably the other big thing to keep in mind is that there are no manuals for the conversion. You can kind of follow the official Switchwire manual, but not everything translates, and in order to really follow it, you'll have to completely take your ender down to pieces. I had already done a few mods to mine that made me really not want to do that. All of that considered, I learned a ton, had a ton of fun, gave myself more than one migraine, yelled a few curse words, spent way more money than I expected, and if I could go back and do it all over again? Yeah, I would probably still do it. The Ender was my first printer, and seeing how much it has improved over time, especially with this conversion has been very rewarding. I've got a ton of blood, sweat, and tears in this thing, and wouldn't trade it for the world. Oh, and one final consideration: the enclosure for a conversion is a giant headache if you don't have a Lazer, or access to someone who does. Nobody makes the panels, and the official panels don't fit. I don't have access to a Lazer, so I've had to hand cut all of it. It's probably the one thing I would do differently if I could. I would pay all the money to send the DXF files to someone and have the panels cut.

It took me about 14 months, including delivery delays, anxiety to start. Then another idling by making misstakes and reordering of parts to correct them in some way. And the last obstacle is a SBC because USB via PC connection is too slow for printing a real part. Are circular part I mean after it goes into only walls are demanding more than the first layers for the foundation? A small sieve in particular. PS for a V2.4

For me it was simplicity and ease of maintenance.

@@patricke3848 i see, so far i can only afford entry level i3, but interested in a voron 0 what maintenance trap i should be aware of

I'm you should get neither. Get a 250mm trident. Cheaper and better than a 2.4. In terms of "maintenance trap", neither the vorons nor prusas would be a maintenance trap. The vorons would require tuning out of the box but the prusas should be a plug and play. Just make sure to get a good voron kit if you go that route. If you have more questions just join the voron design discord!

WOW YOUR SO QUIRKY, NICE COMMENT

RIght. I feel like this was just an experiment to see what they could do. I could see it be cool for converting ender 3s but why use corexz. So not sure

It would work with nonplanar printing. But that's a fantasy technology that still needs R&D.

Belted along with high performing steppers and a quality mainboard let's you run at higher speeds and accelerations with the same print quality. (Don't forget input shaper though!)

I agree, it seems like such a pointless design. This retains the worst and most limiting aspect of an i3 printer (bed slinger) and "improves" the axes that don't really need it.

Not really. Vorons are more for hobbiests who want to build a high performance printer.

@@MichaelDBeltran Gotcha...what would be a good starter printer for business?

@@aqwer2400 Bamboo Lab X1 Carbon if you need fast. Otherwise Prusa machines

@@XA--pb9ni I was looking i to buying the Bambu X1 carbon but when I looked it was out of stock hoping to get one though otherwise it will be a prusa

hp mjf for business

Sure that still works and print great! Should be normal for a "commercial printer" but they still didn't ship anything and they still have more than 8 million $, I hope for the Kickstarter's that they will delivered something!

@@jeremyholef right... they said they were shipping in july. They have said they are on boats. I will hold out till I see it

you use original sw frame or converted? because 2020 or 2040 is not rigid 3030 or 3060 is more rigid print more quality with 3030 ...3060... 2020 2040 print is more vibration

@@godbncu misunderstood me ,my problem is the z axis belt...belts are not rigid things

@@zola5584 I z-hop for airtightness to prevent potential leak paths in the perimeters and the belted z is awesome for that. A belt isn't rigid, but I've found it to be very repeatable.

Do buy them?

I have to agree, adding a bunch of complexity without improving the main problem of an i3 style printer.