Yeah I like Pro am diffs. I fill mine with gear oil every time I rebuild so the ring and pinion have some lubrication. The stock diff needs grease on the ring and pinion at very least.
Ya if thats what another guy mentioned and one of the dudes at the track raves about them..so ill add them too the wish list. I didnt even realize how dry it looked inside until i watched the video..which means i forgot to grease them when i changed the bearings and housing right before i left for the track
hey man... spur to pinion is too far. when i fitted a zen g320 on one of my losi's it all went in correctly with no mesh issues. then on another one further down the track i fitted again a zen g320 and i couldnt get it to mesh correctly. I found out that sometimes you just have to play with the inserts a little to make the mesh right. think i flipped the insert on pullstart/intake side. might be different for you but worth a try. with the diff gear you are correct also. you dont realise how much of the teeth are gone till you get a new one. On a budget i'd just swap out all diff gears and housing to genuine losi ones. If you got cash then upgrade. also make sure you go no binding in driveline either. sometimes the brakes tighten up on themselves too. when it comes to steering could be faulty battery or even servo saver adjustment. again the servo savers untighten themselves over time. hope that helps :)
Thats the plan..thanks man.. Im getting new ring ..diff pinion and engine pinion. The owner of the track is sending me the bartelone brace and the engine side clutch housing to mount it...he said the chassis flex due to those big jumps is the root of the issue. Someone esle mentioned when the servo gets hot maybe its dying...which would make some sense too.
sorry to hear bud. i had the same problem with my dbxl on the rear diff. well my melted the case. i thought about getting the aluminium case but i toke a different rute and i just upgraded all of my bearing for enduro bearing and used rubber boots on that center rear cvd and i never had a problem since then. steering it could be that the spring bolt is to tight and is touching the chassis or is to loss and is touching the top plate or it could be just the servo on his last legs. engine mesh you need different spacers or you could widen the holes on the spacers and that way you can adjust the mesh and that works just fine. hope that helps bud. 🤝🤘🤘👍
I have the same problem right now with the rear diff... The 2nd last race I replace the outer bearings.. It lasted for 2 runs... Me and you have the same problem, we need news gears and a new diff case. They melt where the bearings are for the long rear drive shaft. You should get new bearings when you order the gear.. Your servo maybe weak when it heats up... I know all to well about the rear diff the car will run like shit.. Weak like your having a hard time driving.. Then she will just give out.. Most times you think it's the engine when it has nothing to do with it.
Ya i just found out its pretty common and one guy was suprised to hear that they were all kingmotor parts that lasted for years now..so ya ..new gears..grease and and a brace this time. The guy that owns the track is sending me a bart brace and rear housing peice to bolt it too so i can protect against the chassis flex thats causing the pinion to get eating up and the movement in general. So hopefully with all new gears i can get her meshed up..right and ready. Always good to know your not alone right
@@ThePonyboy50 good stuff.. I haven't even ripped my rear end apart yet I have all winter... I'm going with all new parts... Redo all diff oils and shocks... Lots of work to get her ready for next season... This year was slow but there saying we are going to have a race season for next year! It's been a 2 year lay off... Last 2 years we more less been just ripping around.
Thanks Shane...those are what some of the other guys run..judt not in thr budget at the moment but i appreciate the info none the less..2 seasons and no probs is what i need to shoot for at some point
Area rc diff cases ...plastic ones get hot and warp ...toss the engine inserts and use hex head bolt lock washers and lock tight ...u can fine tune mesh without fucking around with different inserts ...works for all my cars ...bigbores included
I just realized as i was reading this i saw one of the other guys does that too..someone else mentioned that the chassis flex from those 20' jumps is at the root of it..and with no brace im just asking for issues..so i hes sending me a brace and the housing to bolt it too
That pinion center diff play isn't correct, I'd replace the pinion gear and play around with the inserts to get a better gear mesh. On the rear diff I'd definitely replace the ring gear and pinion gear, my Rovan Lt320 did the same exact thing. Took it apart and it looked fine, bit stripped under load. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to Losi stock plastic diff housing front and rear with Losi ring gear and pinion gear. Those aluminum diff housing just add extra weight plus the money they cost my opinion not really worth it. Your not running big bore power so the plastic ones will work fine, definitely get legit Losi cases bro.
Thanks brother...i guess it all lasted 4 seasons so thats good..and didnt even think about that until another guy mentioned his stuff only lasts 2 ...so i will do exactly this..ordering everything now. Good to know im not alone...didnt realize until i watched the video hoe dry it was in the case either..i forgot to grease it when i had it apart before the race apparently
@@ThePonyboy50 glad I could help out BRAAP brother! And yes some grease is in order for assembly 👍👍 that many seasons on a km, Rovan diff is pretty darn impressive.
