I don’t know why but I really like that saber design with just the blade holder, extension, and the pommel. It’s really basic but there’s so much you could add on to it like grips and other greeblies.
I just started to do research and learn about lightsaber building i have watched a few of your videos and really enjoyed them and the information thank you. I went and just purchased a vise and helping hands as my first part of this journey.
+caleb mcfadden Yeah, they've been hit hard, along with all the other guys that build parts or custom sabers, what with all the Star Wars mania that's been going on. Patience is rewarded, though.
Maybe two years ago when TFA was announced. I’m sure all the fans were going crazy and buying up everything they could get their hands on. But now that hype has kind of died down a bit things should be more in stock.
@@Litebikeman97 thing is you have saber its working. its too amazing it has all.even its graflex luke you have red and vader sound you not need upgrade. yeaaaah, but its same saber.vader to rey.cosmetic changes, but build SHOULD be same.prop artist just made bobo
Hey Rob, I’m converting 4 2015 Black Series Vader’s and there are no blade holder kits available and they say it may be 2 month to get them back. Will the 1.25” non MHS holder work? I have schedule 40 PVC I use for chassis which fits perfectly but will the led get too hot for it? Btw- your videos have helped me tremendously. Wish I’d see n them prior to purchasing 4 sabers from “that big company”. Only a few months in I’ve been able to rewire them thanks to your tutorials. No more big box sabers for me. Keep passing on the knowledge brother!
Great vid! One note, not all Home Depot's are created equal! Some Home Depot's don't carry some of the the smaller screws. My local HD is a waste of time.
Just curious, but if I don't have the necessary tools to build a saber (ie a dremmel, sottering iron etc.) would I be able to have someone build it for me, or at least help me?
Do you know , or could you measure the diameter of the MHS ( I think, parts, well the ones from custom saber shop ) because they say that it’s just under 1and 1/2 which is too big considering that that brass plumbing conduit is actually 1-1/2 and get over theses parts . Because I would like to make my own saber with only the blade- holder from the custom saber shop and to make my body I would like to know the exact dimension so I could connect directly my main sabers body with the blade-holder . Thanks And I consider that you might not respond considering It’s a very old video .
I recently purchased a Star Wars black series emperor I was dissatisfied with the sound and brightness I want to gut it and do a neo pixel install do you think you can help me out with that
I wish I had some steel and a bit of fake gold and the tools. I got the design in my head ..... And on my table .... Out of cardboard and a plastic bag roll. It's a cross between a Graflex and Jaro Tapal's Lightsaber
Any sort of metal or PVC piping that fits the blade can be used for the blade holder. I've found that pipe size adapters look fairly nice. As for the blade, the best thing to use is polycarbonate tubing if you want to use an LED to light it up. Otherwise, you can just paint some PVC pipe to whatever color you want.
I’ve been mixing parts in the modular hilt system . Its Just a shame the hilt and core building programs aren’t available on my phone though And it’s the electronics I’m having trouble selecting
Can anyone tell me the thread depth of the 4" double female connector, the 5" double female connector, the double male with slots style 3 connector, and the pommels? I was able to do the math on the blade holders, but I didn't see the numbers to figure it out on the others. I'm building a 3D digital model of the design I want so that I can make sure where all of the electronics will be located. www.thecustomsabershop.com/4-Double-female-threaded-connector-P123.aspx www.thecustomsabershop.com/5-Double-female-threaded-connector-P124.aspx www.thecustomsabershop.com/Double-male-with-slots-style-3-P885.aspx www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pommel-style-1-P425.aspx?ItemId=434571
I've been looking into modding a gifted saber with PVC but I can't seem to find the right size/schedule combo to fit over the aluminum. Which size/schedule did you have in this video, and what kind of adhesion would be best between the aluminum and PVC?
+Rob Petkau Ah, bummer. I suppose I can try trimming one side of the pipe to take up some slack. Thank you for the response, and all these fine tutorial videos!
These days we have neopixel, the brightest lightsaber setup at the moment! (I don't think that single-diode Luxeon LED is very bright compared to a Tri-Cree inhilt LED or Neopixel/Plecterpixel).
Rob!! I'm building a saber right now and I ordered a clear 1" thick wall battle blade. I've noticed in your videos you always use the white one. it looks fantastic especially in your sound font videos for gcs. can you send me a link for that specific blade?
+Chandler Morris Hey, I will be doing a blade video in the coming months. Essentially you choose whatever size fits your saber, and the rest is personal preference.
Ok, I just thought all blade holders from TCSS were universal and thickness had to do with what you're using the blade for i.e. training and dueling, etc. And the color of the plastic was for brightness or depth. Looking forward to your video on it. I've been scouring every single one of yours lol.
rob need to get ahold of latching converter also have a buck block can you wire the av switch to the buck block av is illuminated please respond soon as possible
what's funny is at the time of this video, SaberForge's apprentice sabers were like, $50 and come with holes and a finished pommel, plus tapped for blades and stuff. Although the wait time is crazy/
im so late for this.looking these parts too but out stock. cant find all parts needed for my saber. so buying is not option.and i only want 2 saber. luke/old ben. vader(assumed)/ben had it/luke get it/luke lost it/maz found/rey discovered/finn try it. yes its same saber all the way.prop artist failed if any. i could make these parts my self,but i not know what threads these are v1 and v2 have dif threads. i could guess them based on diameter.and sure i want build mhs compatible even its my own.why invent wheel? where is specs for these part. i make my own shop. when part purchased i make replacement. stock allways one. or it not show in shop
Hey rob what isle did you go to at Home Depot? Did you like go to the hardware isle? Cuz my Home Depot had like nothing like that you had at your Home Depot
+lightsabers104 the clear plastic tubes are in the lighting aisle where all of the fluorescent light bulbs are and the brass hardware is down the hardware aisle where all the screws and nails are.
Wtf? You stuck the heatsink into the bottom of the emitter section? Erm, wut? Apart from the gap the light from your led has to travel to reach a blade, there's literally nothing holding it in place, unless you drill and tap the hilt.
In the MHS system the blade holder locks the LED module in place between its male threads and the next pieces female threads.. and yes on this particular blade holder there is some dead space between the LED module and blade but on most there is not.
Ah, ok, I'm about to do an MHS build. Looks like that Satele Shan inspired emitter is probably not the best way to go for an in-hilt led setup then. Unless the light loss isn't that significant.
Ok. As I said, not used MHS parts before and the reason I got attracted to doing a build with them is precisely because of that Satele Shan emitter. I noticed your V3 heatsinks have been out of stock, got any more of those inc. anytime soon?
4:26 lets use cheap shit pipe now saber price go up xD well i can build that free. just go work take scrap parts that not need.click cycle start on machine. machine make it its free.sure i can do it after hours.and when there is tools i need ready. so no setups time. completely free.just like custom saber shop should work. part is purchased from shell. new part is replaced before end of day. becouse setup is ready. it should be. every hole should be in same position by threads.its not hard make jig that you turn your part and clamp then mill and drill hole is allways same way(same part s 99.9% same). not like 0-360 some where. same jig can use hold inner and outer thread and jig need build better than final part. if you make hole one side other part and other part hole. when you screw them togetter if you intented holes been line they are. thats quality. atleast in my shop it would be. faster and easier you make part. quality is better. you can sell part good price or sell them cheap becouse you made them cheap lol its allways cheaper make multiple.than one.that one part allready give cost back lol. atleast when looking prices. but allways true.if everyone allready have saber, but true too there allways new born. saber job is mostly hobby everything you sell make profit. you not have 100 guy making these? lol