I like to collect old rolling stock and engines because they can be upgraded and be reliable and cheaper than paying 30-100 USD for new locomotives and rolling stock.
If you’re paying $30 for a new locomotive then you’re buying crap nobody wants. Quality locomotives like athearn , Kato, Broadway Limited etc. are $150 and up.
@@driline Heh, I once got a virtually mint condition Bachman Spectrum 3-truck Shay from a garage sale for the equivalent of 75 cents - bought 30 items for $40. It was an old woman just clearing out her late husband's stuff and I think she simply wanted the engine to be in the hands of somebody who would appreciate it.
@@benh3518 The Bachman Spectrum is the Pro Line of locomotives and is completely different from a cheap Toy Store regular Bachman. I’ve had several Spectrums and they were really good.
@@driline um i can take any athearn kit locomotive, tyco or bachmann look alot better then your overpriced RTR junk that falls apart and railings warp ....
When I was a kid, I remember circa 1976 how cool the Chattanooga Choo-Choo looked on TV. Never got one, but some years ago I ran across one in a flea market. It may have been the flimsiest engine ever produced. BTW I think the reason most toy sets include gondola cars is because kids can load marbles, green army men, rocks, or whatever and take them for a scale 100mph ride.
@@jamestonybrown1712 That would have been for the Life-Like GP38 I had. Superfast by itself, but it had no real pulling power. Staying on the track was also a problem as the traction bands caused a lot of rail climbing.
Tyco also had the distinction of having a mostly plastic one size fits all drive mechanism. The same thing fit in their F7, the steam locos and even that horrible attempt at a GG1. No compromise was too grievous for them to make if they thought they could save a buck in design.
Another thing that distinguishes "toys" from models is the colors. Tyco and the other cheaper brands mold the plastic in the final color. Athearn and other upper end products are molded black then painted. Nothing is more cheezy than an orange locomotive that glows orange from the headlight.
My whole freight train is made up of older cars that can easily be detailed, painted, and weathered. And because my local hobby shop sells them for $1 a piece, I can easily obtain nee models. Please do a part 3!
That is a very valid point, being able to acquire older cheaper cars gives the hobby modeller a good opportunity to work on the skills of modifying, painting and weathering models without any great risks or costs. Mark from Melbourne Australia
I heard that! I have a number of Tyco cars riding on P2K wheelsets with Kadee couplers. Some of their cars decorated for prototype roads were actually pretty good.
As for the old track. I love to get it in bulk for free. I take the rail (recycle the worthless ties) and cut it to length as flatcar loads or to make various scenery like rail used on retaining walls, fences, structural. Or other things. This way i get a dirt cheap good material for these odd things. As for the ones cut to length and loaded on flatcars (i paint the rail rust color) i can sell those flat car loads for a decent price ether on car or as a complete weathered car for far more than it cost to make. I don’t do it often because the rr i model does require a lot of car loads of rail (steel mill and major construction) but it is fun.
@@markfryer9880 if you thought that was good. I also break down N scale rail and i had broken HOn3 close space ties and i reused those Nickel silver rail on new lay HOn3 switches. As for the old ties they all became fence material thus making really nice fence work for both a big yard one and small garden type.
Great video, you hit some interesting points. There is a market for Tyco products and there's no shortage on EBAY. Growing up in the 70s and 80s Tyco, Life Like, Bachmann, and Model Power were staples. I believe all of them made the F7 in the red/silver livery. I have a few of them and they still run to this day. The UP gondola and the BN 50ft plug door box car were everywhere. Another Tyco mass production are the UP piggyback trailers! I swear those things multiply like rabbits!!!!😂😂
The thing that bothers me is that there are almost no reproduction parts for Tyco trains these days. Considering that there are parts still being made for Tyco slot cars and US-1 trucks, as well as Lionel and American Flyer trains, I don't see any reason to not make them for Tyco trains as well - especially considering how many have burnt out motors and/or broken gears.
@@davydigger708 Exactly, ironically I was just looking at USA-1 sets/parts on Ebay. I had the USA-1 set and a Tyco race set with several Magnum cars. Tyco, AFX, and M2 I believe still make vehicles and parts. I know a lot of Tyco early train stuff was made by Mantua. Not sure if Mantua is still in business or continued making trains for Tyco...
Just came across these videos and they are something really needed. If I was to recommend a third video, it would be about how something isn't valuable just because it comes from a well known brand like Lionel, Hornby, American Flyer or Marklin. Not to mention, everybody tries to claim their old train from those brands are "rare." If Lionel is rare, then why does everybody know who Lionel is, while most people outside of the hobby have never heard of Athearn?
I just stumbled across this channel and found your insights very interesting. If you're game for it, I'd absolutely love to see a Part 3 of this series. Perhaps there might be room for a couple spin-off ideas too, something like "Hidden Gems of Vintage Model Trains" or "Buyers Guide: What to look out for to ensure you're not buying a lemon" or even "Worthless Model Trains that you actually like". On those scores, I'm curious about your feelings regarding a couple models specifically: The HO scale Life-Like "Teakettle" and "Docksider" 0-4-0 steam locos. These were my first two ever model engines, and while I've seen more recently that some hobbyists consider them among the worst locos ever made, I managed to get a respectable 20 years of play and fun out of them. Yes, they were not realistic in the least, and they were geared like little pocket rockets, but for me at least they held up remarkably well with zero maintenance, withstanding many tosses and tumbles and still going strong; toward the end of its life my Teakettle was running with the smokebox door fallen off, and one of my Docksiders had had its rods rusted and kept going. Sadly, I had to let go of both the last time I moved house, but I still fondly remember them and rankle at such harsh criticism of what seemed to be sturdy if unspectacular models for me.
Thank you so much! Part 3 is already in the works, and I love those other video ideas! I will always have a soft spot for those tiny 0-4-0s Life Like did. An old middle school friend of mine and I used to run one of those things around his layout until the wheels about fell off - I think that was one of Life Like's best products. Reliable, cute and cheap - can't go wrong.
Hi there :) Just finished watching the video, and I must respectfully disagree on a point about used track. On one hand, I do completely understand that nobody really wants the non roadbed track. When I got my first train set (mid 1990's) it came with EZ track and it worked perfectly for what I needed - just a simple loop. Now as I've grown more competent with trackwork, I find it's a little easier to use non roadbed track. Here's why: space, customization, costs. 1. Space. I can get tighter clearances between lines with non roadbed track than I ever could with EZ track. Which for me works out better when I don't want most of my table covered in track. 2. Customization. With non roadbed track, if I need a shorter piece say...seven inches cut out of a nine inch piece, I just need a pair of snips (cutters) and a small file to de-bur the track. And, to be completely honest, I've never tried cutting EZ track because I don't have a bandsaw or the time and will power to go at it with a hacksaw or even a Dremel tool. 3. Costs. When I go to my local "ma and pa" hobby shop, I usually raid the previously owned/used section because I can find a lot of - in my opinion - really good stuff for relatively cheap. Track is no exception. And since the track is a lot cheaper, if I mess up something on a section of track, I can replace it without making my wallet beg for mercy. Sorry for the long winded ramble, just wanted to give my thoughts and opinions.
A fun one to point out is the Proto 2000 locomotives. There are TONS of them in like-new or even NOS condition, but because of their reputation for split axle gears even in the package they're hard to shift. It's actually easier to sell them in clearly used or refurbished condition so that potential customers can know for certain they're solid runners with updated Athearn or Walthers axles.
Don't forget Zinc rot! Got a Conrail E8 for dirty cheap at a show once. Got it back and the chassis fell apart in my fingers Few years later and it has recieved a transplant with a new chassis and good axles, among other things like the correct pilot and fresh lighting I am super careful when considering more old P2k models mostly due to zinc rot. Wheels are easy, chassis transplants not so much
@@BOBXFILES2374a Long story short, the gears weren't made quite right and were either produced just a fraction of a hair too small, or the plastic shrunk, and so they crack. Old Athearn locos from the early days of gears had the same issue, as well as pretty much any Bachmann loco clear into the 00s
It's definitely interesting to see how the model train market fairs overseas compared to the UK, especially the bit about track, I'm personally a big collector of Triang and Hornby Dublo models, one big drawback to those is track, I personally buy 2 rail Dublo models where possible, though Dublo was mass produced in 3 rail, so 3 rail Dublo track is actually fairly valuable, the same can be said for Triang track, whilst incredibly crude being made of steel and either Bakelite or Acetate (later polystyrene), the thick profile of Triang wheels means that any collector who wants to collect them needs either "Standard", "Series 3" or "Super 4" track for their collection, Super 4 being the most popular as it allowed for integration into the Minic Motorways brand (another Triang brand, an early version of Scalextrix), alongside having the same track geometry as Hornby's current "set track" (a converter between the two also exists so you can expand your Triang layout with modern Hornby track), though Series 3 and Standard also hold up well, also having the same geometry, although Standard has a grey ballast roadbed (similar to Bachmann easy track), though a converter between Standard and Series 3 would definitely be doable! Definitely interesting to see how the market differs between US and UK!
@@WashingtonDistrictRailfani would recommend the RU-vid channel of Oscar Paisley having a weekly vid on some items of Triang railways and Hornby Dublo. The cooperation period with Lionel for operating cars may also be of interest. Arose because Lionel wanted the hot item of the early sixties from Triang being Scalextric slot cars. Triang US outline Transcontinental items never seemed to crack the US market as hoped but sold much better in Canada, Australia and even the UK for those wanting streamlined diesels and lights.
I buy my engine broken most of the time. And after watching Smt mainline repair a similar engine I repair them. I’m close to 60 engines now and I’ve only been in the hobby for around a year. So I mostly buy tyco, life like, Bachman, and model power,
I have a Tyco/Mantua HO scale F7 A/B loco set in Pennsylvania RR tuscan red/5 stripe livery which I really like a lot. I also have a Bachmann HO scale 'Harry Potty Hogwart Express' train set from early 2000's, a couple of newer Bachmann SD40-2 locos in BNSF livery, an IHC SD-24 loco in 'Presidential' livery, and an older Atlas 'Silver series' HH660 loco in Erie RR livery. And a lot of old Tyco, Bachmann and Life Like rolling stock I've picked up for cheap at thrift stores/antiques emporiums. Not real knowledgeable about values of model railroad equipment but I do enjoy what I have regardless of what my model railroad stuff is worth I simply have fun with it.
I was just in an antique shop in Southern California and they had the Tyco F- unit, the UP gondola, and a pile of old brass track, in a worn food box, and the vendor wanted over $100 for it. Yes the plastic is antique, but like you said worth around 12 bucks maybe!
The only thing TYCO had that is of value to a serious hobbyist are its line of very well molded and detailed building kits (though some former TYCO kits are now available from Walthers in its Trainline series) made for it (TYCO) by Pola of the former West Germany with the rolling lift bridge and The Center Street series both being very sought out items.
True, many of the Pola kits are naturally European in design since Pola was (at that time) in West Germany, but they had quite a few kits that were North American in architecture.
@@dave6695 The Model power and Tyco versions of the european kits usually go for cheaper than the original pola versions, I am doing a Euro-style layout and I don't want to pay $ nearly $200.00 for the Faller branded re release of the pola kit or the original, when I can pay $28.00 for the same building.
FYI, I'd love a part 3, gives me hope in the hobby as my old garbage isn't the "norm" for what's out there as far as rolling stock/locos AND me hoping my kids old Thomas Trains are worth a ton! Although I wouldn't say that old track is worthless, it's great for making display cabinets and stuff to put trains in. Although I'm not a huge fan of "ez track" type products, the plastic roadbed just looks so fake
Kato roadbed track looks much better so does the old out of production Fleischmann Profi-track in HO Even Marx had roadbed track, which was sold as atlas true track after they switched from hollow rail to solid rail, and then sold it to atlas when yty got rid of the HO line, it's literally the same Marx bedding!
The older Mantua Tyco locomotives and diesels are decent , but can be a pain to repair , the older rolling stock was decent as well , but later on the quality declined . I’ve come across some Marx h o locomotives and they are surprisingly good runners for an inexpensive train . A 3rd follow up would be great .
The old Tyco diesels were good runners; but they riveted everything together, making simple tasks like cleaning the commentator and changing the couplers very difficult. They are also pretty noisy; the steam engines are better. I have a fleet of the Bachmann Thomas trains; Bachmann sells them for a high price; but puts very cheap motors in them that burn out. I have had three burn out so far. I would have to pull the worm gear and press it on a new motor to try and replace them with something better.
@@survivingworldsteam Have you watched any of SMT Mainline’s videos ? This young man has worked on many HO locomotives , Tyco being one or two of the videos . Very knowledgeable and instructive
Several years ago my MRR club visited and operated on Doug Tagsold's current Sn3 layout, featured in some Model Railroader publications. I was very interested to see a noted modeler reusing many Atlas turnouts and old model buildings I remember from the 1980's. While operating I paid special attention to these old building kits from Tyco, AHM, etc. and found they actually have pretty good plastic molding detail that still holds up today. In fact, Walthers Trainline has reintroduced some of these very same kits. So ever since then I've been collecting them, primarily hunting for bargains off of eBay.
Fun Fact: Recently, I acquired a Tyco UP gondola in the box, for the equivalent to 14 dollars, in an auction here in Brazil. This value was diluted among the bid (7,90 dollars), the shipping (5,90 dollars) and the auctioneer's tax (20 cents).
When I was a kid Tyco was king. My brother and I would set up on the dining room table. Our Mom told Dad to leave it alone! We ate on a card table🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
I had a bunch of Lima and Hornby as a kid. I had some Bachman here and there over the years. I have one Kato N scale start set which I bought a few year ago and it is, by far, the best train set I've ever owned.
Those bedless tracks are great for display tracks. I buy old Linonel track. Then I make cantilevers wood pieces (painted flat black) that screw to a board from behind every few inches. That board is then screwed to the wall at the wall studs. Then the bedless track is rested and screwed to the cantilevers. I then 0lace my rolling stock and engines on the track forvdisplay when not in use. I can stack these display tracks a few inches above each othe from floor to celling as make them as wide as possible. I can even entend the display track around corners with varying widness cantilevers and support. If i make a loop around the room, i can actually run the trains on these racks (near the ceiling as no not block walkways).
I classify the "model trains" into two categories: 1 - Model Trains - The MTH, Athearn, Walthers stuff that will empty your bank account pretty fast but are detailed and require special care with handling, typical to see real liveries, knuckle couplers are common. Locomotives typically have a 5 pole motor central and has all wheel drive. Enough weight is used so traction is achieved without the use of rubber bands 2 - Toy Trains - Your Cheap Tyco, Life Like stuff meant to be toys and/or entry level to model railroading. These are meant to be handled by a kid, are low quality, fictional liveries are common, bright colors, horn hook couplers, and basic details. Locomotives usually have a 3 pole pancake type motor and for traction uses a rubber band on a set of drive wheels due to lack of weight That old track major flaw is that it is steel track and steel is not the best conductor plus it rusts but steel is cheap and was "good enough" an electrical conductor for a toy so it was used. The rail joiners also would wear out and soldering that old steel track you needed a high wattage iron and proper 60/40 rosin core solder. With the high wattage iron came the reality of melting the plastic cross ties. There were nickle clad and brass types also but those suffered from corrosion or wheel deposits building up from the plastic wheels New modern tracl can be soldered with a low watt iron so you dont heat up too fast and melt things
I was at an antique mall in Roseville CA back in 2016 and spotted a Bachman Empire Builder set box in one of the cubicles, I picked it up, lady quoted a price, I looked into the box all was there except the track, which I had plenty of at home, I mentioned no track, she said ok then $10.00! SOLD, I grabbed it and took it home!.
Man I wish I lived close enough for some of this stuff. I like doing up old abandoned places or quarries for a layout and that old rusty stuff saves a good bit of time
I Was Young Back in the 70’s TYCO is One Of the pillars For Model Railroading. And I will Always Remember these Brands once you know And Understand You will Respect it.
Some late ‘50s and early ‘60s HO toy trains were made to a higher standard. It was a route into model railroading. My first “toy” engine was made primarily of metal with very few plastic parts. The motor ran smoothly and quietly. There was good detail, a light and the couplers could be upgraded. A decade later, train sets had nothing to do with getting kids interested in the hobby.
I got that Tyco Pipe Express as a Christmas present nearly 40 years ago. Been hooked on model railroading ever since. I still have the loco and rolling stock. The freight cars are part of the freight consists. The loco doesn’t run but I will rehab it one of these days for old times sake.
Yes, anyone like myself who has been in the Model Railroad hobby for a long time kind of know what train items that are worth having and can cost more. I also have worked in a hobby store. My friend and myself both have pretty good size HO layouts, but allot of our items we have we bought many years ago. Prices now for a young person to get into the hobby is insanely too high priced for new products. Even lumber, wiring, and electrical parts are very expensive. Starter sets for anyone can cost around 200 dollars for an engine, a few cars, and a loop of track. Be fun for a child for a little while, but would probably get boring in a very short time. I get kind of a chuckle sometimes when I go out to Ebay to see what model train stuff is being sold at. The prices they put on allot of the items are marked up way too high. I used to get allot of bargains a long time ago, but not now. Model Railroading is a very expensive hobby today, so if you plan to start to build a nice layout in your basement, do some investigative pricing on how much it would cost to do. Thanks for your video, take carre.
I like Tyco, I started in H.O. with Tyco and enjoyed it thoroughly. The Clementine gold loader didn't stay together very well. The conveyor belt broke easily. Everything else was good to me. The Alco 630 locomotive was very powerful locomotive. The geep 20 was a reliable running locomotive also. So I have zero problems with Tyco Trains. They are a Hoot to have.
Yep. Make a part three. Maybe also, some insight into what brands ARE worth buying and how much we should or should not pay. One added note. TYCO back in the day when their rolling freight LOOKED real and not so much toy like, I do personally find them highly collectable. Great channel.
There do seem to be adult collectors of things like TYCO and similar. It puzzles me why, but they exist. There is the magazine "HO Collector" that primarily caters to such people. They recently had a series of articles full of inside information about Life-Like, for example.
While they may not be the most realistic, Tyco trains just have this charm of being laid-back and fun - some people don't want fragile, prototypical trains that need to be handled with extra care - they just want something to play with, and brands like Tyco and Life-Like fit the bill! Also, many people grew up with them as kids or teenagers back in the day, and seeing those trains again brings back memories of the good ol' days!
When All Do Model our Trains different strokes Different Folks. Different Taste But we Are Our own Biggest Crittics One Way Or Another We All Do model With Passion and Pride.
That riser/bridge setup where there was one support for each section of track was one of the most absurd ideas I've ever seen. The set I had when I was young had it and I only built it once, seeing the track flex by touching it made me scared to run the train over it.
Also worth mentioning are the Bachmann steam engines from the 70's - 80's (and even the 90's models too) that have the dreaded pancake motor and split axle problems...
While the Tyco Union Pacific gondola is worthless, it's still a very useful train car! I have 3 of them and they see a LOT of use because I can carry almost anything in them - and they look good too! Plus, I use the Tyco track, partly because of my brand loyalty to Tyco, but also, since nobody buys it, I take advantage of that fact and buy track for dirt cheap! It's actually not bad for the price. Sure, it is not Atlas track or Kato Unitrack, but for as cheap as you can get it, it works!
You forgot to mention the Tyco BN 50ft boxcar, that I think they made a billion of. I buy those to repaint into other RR's, just because I can get them cheap.
Thoroughly enjoyed this and the previous video - so yes, Part 3 please. I'm getting responses from forwarding these to the model railroad groups I belong to... although it does seem I'm the odd one out with N-scale stock with rapido couplers. But, hey, as they say "Model Railroading is Fun"
Tyco and Bachmann are definitely some sentimental favorites. Yes, they a blown away by the latest and current makers in quality and performance. But, master modelers can very adept at rebuilding then and finding use for them. I’m certainly not above picking up to old favorites when I find them. Great videos on this topic. I’ll be all in for a #3. This is an interesting and informative perspective..
If I was given a choice of similar track, TYCO, Bachman, LifeLife, AHM, Model Power: Snap-Track or Flexible Steel/Brass, Honestly, I'd choose TYCO. The non-roadbed track had the better quality plastic ties. The same choice goes with their switches and bridge/supports. A bit void of detail, but the plastic was less brittle. John BC, Canada
The late era Tyco sets and Bachmann Sets from the late 70's and early 80's may be junk but if found sealed as new stock they sell for significant premium. People relate to what they grew up with. I for one always liked the Flashy TYCO sets in the toy store at the mall but never was able to get one. Had to fight several bidders for a sealed A-Team Tyco set on Ebay. Old USA Made Tyco was a fine product. Beautiful diecast steam locomotives.
It's strange how all model (toy) train companies, in the UK & Europe, started out with track ith built in road bed, back in the 1950's. but moved to more realistic bed less track systems after the late 1950's. Meanwhile, in the US & Japan, things have gone the reverse.
Very knowledgeable video again on model trains that sell and don't. I'd say keep the video's coming .Very good to know what sell and what doesn't sell or what is valuable and valueless.But i buy trains that i like,not if they are valuable or not.If i can find the rolling stock i'm looking for by whatever company produces it that is made to run on the track.Then i look at the detail and quality of realism put into the rolling stock to match the real version of the freight cars ,diesel engines, Locomotives or the cabooses( what i call the missing man)(or missing in action)(these days ) replaced with a red light at the end of the last car to indicate the end of the train.
They are indeed worthless. I am on the executive of an Australian model railway club. We get donated stuff like this all the time. We are also constantly asked by widows to evaluate their late husbands' collections, and they are very disappointed - and sometimes angry - when we tell them that this stuff is esentially worth nothing. And when we DO try to sell it, we dont get more than a few dollars for it. About what you'd pay at a charity shop. Harsh - but that's life.
Honestly, I might try and keep an eye out for the TYCO UP gons, there's an article on improving/superdetailing them and I do need a good amount of gons for timber traffic
I bought the Tycho Alco Century Diesel Rock Island No. 235-10 used in the late 90's. It was all-metal, a good puller and looked really cool. I wish I still had it today 😥.
More good info for helping us clubs dealing with consignment sales. Keep it coming. I'd like to know if you see regional differences in this. Even coasts to midwest, or metro to rural. Thanks!
Hey there…I love your work here. I’ve dealt with model train retail for many years…and though you may already be doing so….one way I was able to move shelf sitters was to bundle into “sets”. Set a single price for a transformer, a large oval of track, and allow people to pick a locomotive and four cars. Great way to pick up $40 or so bucks rather than it sitting…and it gets people…mainly kids into the hobby. ….also, do you deal in American Flyer AC Gilbert S scale? How does it do for you?
for those who can't afford gold plated train sets, these are priceless. Parents trying their best for their kids, etc.... try different ideas for your time here,
Tyco might have been around in the 80's but they were really big by 1970 because they were everywhere in toy stores and department stores. Back then their track was made by Atlas because the Atlas stamps are right on the bottom of the track ties. The problem was that the freight cars were built pretty cheaply and many of the freight cars they came up with didn't even exist in real full-scale railroading, but their accessories like the automatic crossing gates, the 47 piece pier set and the bridge and trestle set made to simulate wood trestles weren't bad. Given that the Tyco track was brass rail Atlas track (or at least gold in color) every piece of track and switches and crossovers I got after that I just bought Atlas because I knew it would be compatible. I started with a basic figure-8 layout that came with the bridge and trestle set and it was essentially a 4' x 8' layout back about 1968 or 1969 when I was 8 or 9 years old but kept adding on to it until I was about 15 to the point that I was running a reversing double loop and had a yard, in addition to the original figure-8 running three locomotives and about 20 freight cars Ahh, the innocence of youth... I've wanted to build a cookie-cutter multi-layer model railroad my entire adult life.
the good thing is if a new guy who doesn't want to spend a bunch of money to buy some train stuff to play with the kids might want a bunch a tyco stuff. Not all the bad stuff but if you worked with a kid and pretty much gave him the track you could sell him some cars, engines and other HO stuff. Maybe more tyco stuff that you want to get rid of. thank you for making these videos as I'm just starting get into this hobby in my semiretirement years and want to get my little buddy into something and off the IPad. From what I have learned so far collecting information for people like you whom are willing to share knowledge I want to stay away from anything but the newer nickel silver EZ track unless it is in a set dirt cheap with a good engine and some decent rolling stock. I want DCC but am willing to buy used starter set that would be a value for some of the stuff even if it does not have a DCC engine but does come with the nickel silver track and other things that I can use and it's a deal.
I had serval Tyco sets as a kid. Silver Streak, Golden Eagle, Clementine, a Big Logger, Rock Island, and also are really cool AHM Kellogg's trainset, if i remember correctly you had to have 10 box tops and $20 for shipping to order it. but i was able to convince my mom to get it for me. when we moved into a new house, my dad set up a huge layout with all the tracks and 3 4x8 sheet of MDF and a few 2x4s. there were 2 independent tracks. that crossed over each other in a couple of spots. so, i have a soft spot for the old TYCO stuff.
My first electric train was the Tony the Tiger set. It was DOA. Never worked from day one. A few years later, I got the Rock Island Express. It worked for a week and the motor stopped working and that was it for me on model trains.
Those were awesome sets! I'm jealous! I currently have both the Tyco Rail Master 72 and Rock Island Express sets from the 80's, and a Tyco Pacesetter set from 1959, as well as a bunch of Tyco locomotives, rolling stock, and operating accessories I bought individually.
@@davydigger708 yea, those were awesome sets. I think my dad like playing with them as much as I did. the AHM Kellogg's set had the most stuff in it. it had a yellow and blue engine, a reddish-brown caboose, an Eggo waffle box car, a Frosted Flakes Box car, a Kellogg's hopper car, I white tanker, I think it was a dairy tanker. the picks I have seen online for when step pop up for sale, had a picture of a gravel car, but I didn't include that, mine had a Corn Flakes box car instead. I remember it specifically because I hated corn flakes as a kid. it had a ton of stuff in the box too, like road signs, telephones poles, and slot and tap paper doll type building. pics I have seen online had a tunnel, but I don't remember ever having a tunnel in mine. it was a pretty good set, and worth while considering I had to choke down several boxes for corn flakes to get it.
Loved the vid, and cant agree more with some of what you said. the one thing i really wish other model brands did were the interactive builds or cars. i have a few of the old TYCO 2-Bay Hoppers with the opening doors, and i love the ability to roll them over the track piece and unload them. i don't see any or cant find any other Model brands that have the operating hoppers.
Keep them coming, ironically that track you have and think is worthless, is the type I prefer and want but isn't for sale around me locally. Unless it is from some flipper that thinks because it came from the 1970's-1980's it most be super rare collectible and of high value. Will will not come off their absurd price, so they have it listed for years on ebay also and it stays sitting there.
I am a modeler and have quite a few Tyco rolling stock and a couple of Tyco engines which have been converted and painted with body mounted Kaydee couplers. All my rolling stock got converted from plastic wheel sets to all metal with body mounted Kaydee couplers. Talgo couplers are not considered appropriate for prototype models. I am collecting Lionel .027 engines, rolling stock and track. I'm particularly looking for 031" radius curves as I don't really like 027" curves as they are and look too sharp. Finding old .027 track is tough around here. Cheers from eastern TN
The power trucks in Tyco diesels always impressed me. I accumulated banged up units,, removed the the truck and put into a good unit. With twice the power trucks, added weight to the shell and had a great-pulling locomotive. Too bad every model F-7, GP-20, etc. all used the same locomotive numbers for a given model.
Nice video. I’m a native Virginian as well. Grew up a few miles from Virginia Beach. My old stomping ground, but last lived in Richmond until 2013 when we moved to Baltimore. In Portland Oregon since 2017. I have a question for you, have you ever heard of Cox Trains? If so what are your thoughts. Thanks in advance. Tim
Thank you so much! Cox is an interesting one - quality wise I feel like they were around the same as Tyco/Mantua, but they look a bit more realistic in my opinion. Maybe it's the darker colors of plastic and paint used - less toy like.
Roadbed track has a more real look and appears more durable, but if stepped on to often or taken apart and put back together to often, they may have electrical problems. Some roadbed tracks have track alignment problems and if you try to fix them they may break in that process and can't be used. The older track styles should be recommended for the more permanent layout modeler instead of the track bed type. And on the O gauge side if they want a easy to put up and take down set up, or have a very small layout space have them buy the original style O gauge track, and for that space problem O-27 is the smallest of any common train track system. Be a wise and helpful seller to your customers.
Tyco sprang out of Mantua which was a legitimate model train manufacturer, but when Tyco took over they sent all the production to Hong Kong and produced the cheapest possible junk. No matter how nostalgic people might be about it, it was all barely functional crap, meant to sell at Christmas, implode by New Years and then be forever forgotten in a closet.
I managed to see the transition when I bought some to experiment with at a train show. I had one old Mantua gondola with a full metal underframe, it weighed within a half ounce of NMRA recommended practice. Then there was the post sale version early Tyco which still retained the metal underfame, but it was a universal one used on all cars of the same length. Unlike the Mantua cars, the underframe stringers no longer lined up with anything on the sides. Then finally I had a late Tyco car, all plastic underframe with an artificially introduced fishbelly to accommodate the dinky little one ounce weight they replaced the underframe with.
Anyone who works with me after a short time knows I am into trains. Now I model N scale but growing up I had G, HO and O27 High rail stuff, so I am not myopic to one scale. Often I get the story "My uncle/dad/cousin/brother in law has some old trains, would you mind telling me if they're worth anything?" Now I want to be kind but helpful and usually have to break it to them that unless they're in the the original packaging with little to no use, these were mass produced items made in the tens of thousands. Sometimes I get someone bringing in to work a locomotive or car, and I pull up some guides or ebay and kinda nicely as best I can say "well according to this in this condition it's got a market value of $3." It's not me giving the bad news, it's the guide or ebay doing the talking.
I wonder if the re-made Wooden Railway train of the last year - as opposed to the kind from before that (the lack of paint in areas, and other cost cutting made people pissed heh) would be an anomaly for the post-2010s Thomas merch at least long, long term... guess time will tell. The new stuff, from after people complained to Mattel, is definitely a HUGE step up, IMO.
The only non roadbed sectional track that holds value is the Old Fleischmann Treated cardboard ties stuff, the Marklin K-Track for people who like stud contact AC rails but not the unrealistic Marklin M-gleis roadbed, Hornby Dublo, Trix Express, and the Piko U-track with the Hollow Rails similar to fleischmann, or the Marx HO Hollow rail track and the Pico Express track which is the rarest of all of these.
Definitely will come by your store ar some point. As i'm seeing a lot of hot wheels fantasy castings in all the footage used and i love to collect those
It’s unbelievable how many people have brought me their dads or grandparents old trains thinking it worth a pile because it’s old. Usually absolutely trashed old Lionel. I know there’s some older postwar and tinplate stuff that’s worth some to collectors, but most of it is worthy of the landfill.
There's a lot of trains out there that I'll only buy if they're next to nothing. Sometimes, even if there's a collector's market for them, I know that if I'm patient enough I'll find an item for a much better price. It can also feel a bit weird to pay a lot for a cheaply made model, even if it has a dedicated following of collectors. I'd suggest if you ever make another part, consider having a look at the late-era Marx plastic rolling stock with plastic knuckles, simulated truck frames molded to the body, and 2-axles. I see them around junk bins a lot but I don't think most of them are very sought after. I collect them sometimes, but only for the sake of having a 'period appropriate' consist to pull with a simple, cheap Marx 490. They're alright, but the plastic solid knuckle couplers are incompatible with most O gauge trains, and their cheap look does make them a bit undesirable. Lionel 'scout' sets are pretty notorious for being unwanted and unloved. The locomotives with plastic motors are difficult to work on without taking the motor completely apart, and they're not designed to pull very many cars (too heavy a train can burn out the motors). There are a few nicer models, but a lot of collectors will turn up their nose at anything with. 2-4-2 wheel configuration (scout motor or not), and of course the scout-type couplers from the 40s don't mate with the Lionel knuckle coupler. Basic Lionel SP-type cabooses like the brown 6017 'Lionel Lines' model are so plentiful that they're practically worthless except to repaint or use for parts. I never buy them unless they're practically being given away, they're just not worth it.
Very interesting! I am over 60, and it never occurred to me that Tyco would be "cult-like" - they were just train sets. Good ones, though. It was interesting to learn that Mattel bought Thomas. (Will they make a Pink set of ""Thomasina" engines?) Unfortunately, Tennessee is a long way from Kansas City, so I probably won't be "dropping in." Good luck with your store!
I'm 42, I believe you missed the explosion of Tyco that occurred in the late 70's and 80's. For a boy my age, Tyco was everywhere from trains, to slot cars, and R/C vehicles, complete with flashy ads on Saturday morning cartoons. If I had to guess, the really dedicated Tyco fans are ~45 years old.
