Avoid your stiff flaky waxed chain and having to break it loose before your first ride by installing the chain straight onto the bike right out of the wax, then run it through all of the gears while the wax is still warm arnd soft. Saves a lot of mess and prevents that stuff clunky chain before the first ride.
Full emersion solvent bath and scrubs. Environmentalists be dammed. Nothing cleans like Kerosene and disc-brake cleaner with the assistance of a stiff bristle paint brush.
you sounds like ZFC who use an ungodly amount of toxic solvents and air miles just for cleaning and lubing a bicycle chain. We have duty for the next generations to leave this planet better than we found it. That is why I stick with squirt lube and basic cleaning. I get epic longevity out of my drive train. @@manitoublack
Wipe the chain with a dry cloth after each long ride and and re-apply chain lubricant (e.g., Squirt). Wipe again to remove excess. I learned this from Lennard Zinn and don't use a mechanical chain cleaner with solvent more than once or twice a season.
One reason I moved to wax is that it actually makes drivetrain maintenance SO MUCH easier and faster on my road, gravel, and mountain bikes. Instead of having to clean a bunch of oil-soaked gritty gunk off the chain, rings, and cassette after 1-4 rides, I just wipe down the chain and either drip on a little Super Secret or re-dunk the chain in hot wax as necessary. Further, working on the bike without getting lube all over my hands is awesome. Prepping a new chain used to be the hardest part, but Silca has even made this super easy with their new products. Very simply, I love having a cleaner, faster, and lower-maintenance drivetrain--and it even saves me money. The naysayers are either ignorant or doing it wrong!
I second that, drive train maintenance and chain swapping is so much simpler as soon as you realize you can do it without rags without gloves, and you don't need to scrub your hands for 10 minutes after. Id honestly continue waxing my chains even if it was slower just for that. The benefit of being able to work on the bike without getting covered in grease. The peace of mind that Im never again going to foul some pants or a couch with chain bite that I didn't notice in the shower after a ride, etc. The cleanliness of a waxed chain, is such a HUGE benefit that is rarely talked about.
@@danielhand1729 I usually just do a quick wipe down with a cloth. But if it's been a really dirty day, I pop the chain off and do a proper wash with a hose and soap. If the chain is also really muddy, I will rinse it with water (no soap), and then dry it with a cloth before putting it back on and adding fresh Super Secret (or just pop on a spare freshly-waxed chain, and then throw the old chain into the wax pot after rinsing and wiping it).
I do the same thing, the quick links last for a long time. Popping the chain on and off becomes such a non issue when there is no mess involved. @@danielhand1729
My brother got an Author mountain bike in the late 90-s. It had one chain and one cassette for circa 10000 kilometers, many of which offroad, with little maintenance. After 15 years everything still worked well. I want these times back.
These times never really existed. He just got lucky. Been cycling seriously since '79 and wore out so many damn chains, cogs and chainrings. Stuff just wears out with traditional lube. Wax is the solution that's taken way too long to become mainstream.
@@dudeonbike800 Thanks for you point of view. I wonder what was the deal with that drivetrain, then. It was a Shimano mountain bike drivetrain, 18 gear, not sure if the shifts were indexed but probably not. These were the old type "friction" shifters, with a single rotational knob over the bars.
Since the chain has to be cleaned (& lubricated) on a regular basis to prevent the accumulation of dust/dirt from becoming abrasive, what is wrong with using a lubricant such as chain-saw oil to lubricate your chain? If it's good enough for the demands of a chain-saw, shouldn't it be adequate for a bike chain?
You are joking. I expect you enjoy getting dirt and filth all over yourself every ride. It is about a 30wt oil to start with, and has so many anti-fling & other additives that it becomes a paste on a roller chain in no time flat. BTW, chainsaw chains aren't roller chains.
GCN, 40 minutes is pretty long for a video, but when you get a genuine subject matter expert like Adam, it is well worth it. 👍 PS. I could do without the click-baity title.
well no, a "reset" goes a bit beyond "cleaning." with a reset you're basically replacing all of the contaminated lubricant with fresh uncontaminated lubricant, while with a cleaning you're just removing the contamination from the surface to prevent it from migrating to inside the rollers, any contamination already inside the rollers is still going to be there. so yes based on the strict definition of the word "clean" a reset does count as cleaning, he's using this specific wording to differentiate between those two conditions. if you want you can replace "reset" for "deep clean", however the word "reset" more accurately invokes the way somebody should think about it. the idea is to put the chain back to a like-new condition vs only giving the appearance of clean. **disclaimer: if you're using a wax lubricant and you're reusing the same batch of wax, the entire pot slowly becomes more and more contaminated with every reset, so there's a practical limit to how many resets you can do with the same batch before the amount of contaminant becomes counterproductive. he goes over all of this (at extreme length) on his own videos. the man is certainly passionate about this.
@@Chris-pt6hh ha yes - what is "cleaning"? for one person it is wiping with a cloth. for another its putting into an ultrasonic. for another it is spraying degreaser through chain, for yet another it is a clip on chain cleaner etc etc. Depending on how much crap the conditions have brought into chain and lubricant depends on what level one should consider to re set. I personally prefer "intervention" as it implies you have to do something - but doesnt pre bias towards what one may think in their head = "cleaning". But then again, as you can see, i have long answer or way to say everything :)
Once your chain. casette and chainrings are worn and need replacing. What is the problem in keeping them? I ran a worn-out set for a year with no noticeable problems.
Worn chains shift worse than newer chains. They're also more prone to failing. So you have that PLUS the damage being done to other much more expensive parts, especially today's hilariously large 12-speed mountain bike cassettes. What used to be $65 items are now $200, $450 and even $700 items. Insane!!!! So the idea is to catch them before they exceed .5% elongation, or 1/16" in 12" span. Then you preserve your rings, cogs and even pulley wheels and can get much, much more life out of them. Wax takes this to the extreme where cog & ring replacement will become very rare.
I've followed the Oz Cycle process for several years (homemade paraffin/PTFE 10/1 in a small dedicated crock pot) . Current chain is at 9400 miles and still going. I re-wax at 200-300 miles, and use the same Shimano link through the life of the chain.
I used the Oz-instructions to mix my own hot-wax and drip on. The fact that they are DIY and aren't peddling any brands made me confident the whole wax thing is not just a marketing thing. Btw: They adjusted their formula from 10:1 to 20:1 wax to PTFE.
"Current chain is at 9400 miles and still going." What does that mean? That it hasn't snapped? Most will want to know the wear data as would anyone hearing claims like how a $40 bottle of chain lube can "save" $500, as Mr. Fiction made here. I'm usually a skeptic about "Buy my expensive product and SAVE!" claims, but maybe that's just me?
Absolutely. But stop with the PTFE! That is environmental poison, and likely bad for humans as well. Just wax is 99% as good, it's also the cheapest part. Why spend more for the poison.
It means it's at 9400 miles and hasn't reached the .5 wear to replace as mentioned in the video. I do have the Park Tool adjustable checker versus the go/no-go guage, and it looks to be about .4 wear at the moment. I don't ride them until they break... Right now 1lb paraffin is about $5, $3-$8 for 1.6 Micron PTFE free shipping, and about $13 for the crock pot. That will last at least a couple of years for my several bikes.
@@tobiasd2264they make way less money from RU-vid ads than they do from direct sponsors, that's why most RU-vidrs prefer sponsorship videos. if GCN+ had been more popular that would have been much more of a win-win for both the viewers and for GCN, being directly supported, they wouldn't have needed ads nor sponsors and then they could TRULY do unbiased videos. when you have to rely on ads and brand sponsors, by default you also have to worry about losing their money if you say something they don't like. unfortunately for us viewers there's no way to know if the big heads behind GCN had any intention of going to sponsorless content, obviously to be the exclusive source for racing, that seems unlikely to have been the plan.
And cheers to Adam for it! I've learned so much from the guy.... but it's always a good idea to have a tea and a bowl of popcorn handy before you begin, because you just know it'll be lengthy lol
If ever there was a guy in love with the sound of his own voice it's "Mr. Friction Fiction"! Can't sleep? Listen to him for 5 minutes...you'll be snoring in no time!
Then get a few chains wax them, and rotate them as soon as they make noise. Take 15 seconds with a quick link to change out, and Im on more than 3k miles on one of the chains, and it's got basically no wear, and I ride in an incredibly harsh environment. A long waterfront beach bike path with lots sand, salty air, etc. A chain used to last me 1000 miles if i was lucky. Now, 3000 miles in, i can barely tell it from the newer chains. Add in the fact that you can touch your chains and get nothing on your hands, and that you will never again foul anything with un noticed chain grease from your leg. Best decision I ever made to start waxing my chains.
I think that Dura-ace "value component" fiasco will never let him forget and now he's on a mission to right that proverbial "wrong" forevermore! Cheers to Alex (and Adam) from Vancouver, Canada *edit: sorry @gcntech I just did mention it.... 😉🤭
Do note that all of the cost savings and power savings numbers quoted by Adam are for riding at 250 watts. If you ride at 150 watts, multiply his numbers by 25%. The power exerted to chain wear relationship is not linear, it is exponential. Adam provides a lot of useful information, but I find it disingenuous for him to not point this out.
How ridiculous. A 500.00 repair bill from using cheap lubricant? Are we talking about a car transmission… at 58 years old,,, owing about 20 bikes in my lifetime,, riding like a mad man since I was 15,, I never had to spend 500 on a drive train repair ever and I couldn’t tell you what chain lube I have down on my work bench. Hell,, I was using 3 in One for a while and even extra virgin olive oil…just keep it clean, and fresh and all will be ok.
I agree with all the positives about chain waxing, it's nice to work on a bike without getting my hands covered with grease, wax doesn't accumulate debris like oily lubricants do. The problem is the chains rust with waxing. It's bad in the rain but atrocious if you ride in the winter with road salt. I had to go back to conventional lubes.
Campagnolo EKAR is so weak and tiny and even on only road cycling the chain lasts maximum 1500km with good quality chain oil, its pity that the EKAR groupset will ruin people. Hopefully hot wax will solve their problems because Campagnolo has always last long but i have gave up with that brand.
I was initially sceptical of waxing but i now love it. The best thing is never needing to degrease your whole drivetrain again or getting dirty fingers or clothes working on the bike. Its overall much easier.
As someone who services a lot of client bikes, I cannot wait until most of them have made the switch. Trust me, I'll be encouraging them to pay me to show them the light!!!
... /... , to see if i understood: i have 7 cogs in the rear wheel , therefhore i can use an eight (8) speed chain on ❤it❤ ?? Am i right ??? Or it is a six (6) speed chain ( on a 7 cogs cassetes ).@@fedyno4reviews
I have used low-temp dripon wax this winter (N Sweden, so real winter). I got a lot of rust on the outside of the chain, no matter what I did, so put on som wet lube now when the snow is thawing. It was perfectly fine with wax when we had -5 to -38C. But i had to take the bike into the garage, wait a few hours for it to get warm (+5C) and apply the dripon and then let it dry overnight.
Funny enough I always viewed this and never listened😂, I lube randomly, powerwash trice a year, ride beween 5000 - 10.000 k MTB and gravel and change about 0.6 chains a year. All these videos are marketing for stuff that does not help. I run AXS and XTR. My benefit - I donot care about a clean bike - but for a good ride! Love the ride, do not waste time🤙
I have 3 chains, wax them all together, then switch them out every 250 miles, 15 minutes once every month, to have waxed chains, and the biggest benefit they don't talk about. You can touch the chain, and it's clean, your hands will be clean, anything that touches the chain will be clean, no more grease marks, no more worry about how do i transport the bike without fouling something with chain grease, because ive definitely fouled more money worth of stuff with chain grease on accident than I have spent on chain and chain wear,. Never again though. My chain is clean, and leaves no marks on anything it touches. One of my chains Im on 3k miles, of hard beach riding at 250 watts and I don't imagine it will be done anytime soon. If they marketed waxing as no more worrying about getting chain grease on expensive things, people would eat it up. That its faster is just an added benefit. Im at this point convinced that if you rotate out waxed chains frequently, they will never wear out. One of my chains has outlasted a set of tires. I just swap to the next chain after the first ride it makes noise. Takes 20 seconds with quick links. Also, waxing 3 chains at a time takes no more effort than waxing one chain.
As someone who helps people pack bikes for airline travel, wax is a god-send. I'm very much looking forward to this advantage when I pack my tandem and 2 1/2 chains along with it. Grease free and LOVING IT!!!!
Is all of his lube testing based on "dry conditions" ? It would be interesting to see how the different systems / products perform in a wet environment which would be more applicable to the majority of viewers in Europe.
I live in Thailand where we have a monsoon season and I have doubled the life of my chains from c 4000 Km to 8000 Km by using a "Wet" lubricant and changing from a 3 x drive to a 1 x drive.
Adam lists his test protocol on his website, but basically starts with no contamination, then dry contamination, then wet contamination, and if it survives that, then a double dose of wet contamination. Wax is still generally the best performing lube in wet conditions, but it won’t last as long as it would in dry conditions before you need to reapply. Put another way, any lube that is sticky enough to remain on your chain in the wet, is also sticky enough to retain all the mud and road grit and turn into a chain-eating abrasive paste rather than filling its role as a lube. There are some unusual situations (eg. A 24 hour MTB race) where an oil based lube would be better (because there is not enough time for a wax lube to dry and harden), but those situations are … unusual.
Just a little more detail from the other reply. He has 6 "blocks" of tests, each 1000 km. The first block is dry with no contamination and lubing 3 times. The second block is dry with dirt and sand continually added and lubing 6 times. The third block is dry with no contamination, no cleaning from block 2 and lubing 3 times again. The idea is to see if the lube can carry away the contamination from block 2. The fourth block is we with water added continuously and lubing 6 times. The fifth is dry with no contamination and lubing 3 times again. The idea is to see if the lube can carry away the water. The sixth is sand, dirt and water added at twice the volume of blocks 2 and 4, lubing 6 times again. Not every lube is tested in all 6 blocks. Basically, the test is stopped if the chain doesn't survive (so he never replaces the chain). At the end of a block, if the chain is over the 0.5% total wear limit, he stops the test. Anticipating the reason for your question: all immersive wax lubes (including normal candle wax) survived the entire test well (although for some reason he hasn't gotten to block 6 of the candle wax test yet). All of the immersive wax tests also performed better in the wet than the wet lubes that made it to the 4th block. The top immersive wax in the wet (Silca Hot Melt) performs more than 3 times better than the top wet lube (Silca Synergetic). Hot melt had 8% of the 0.5% wear limit in block 4 vs the 27% wear of Synergetic). It's not even a close battle. Josh from Silca has speculated that wet lubes appear to perform better in the wet because they they are thicker and dampen the sound. Even though they aren't actually protecting the chain very well any more, you can't hear them and so people think they are performing better. He's pretty clear that he believes that all immersive wax (from any producer) perform better than wet lubes, even in the wet. And that applies to Synergetic as well. There are reasons you might want to run wet lubes, but getting maximum protection for your drive chain isn't one of them.
If you run waxed chains, just dips them in isopropyl alcohol after a wet ride, and they will be dry, it wont dissolve the wax, but its very hydrophilic and absorbs the water. Or run a rotation, of chains ,and just swap them out. The wax is so good, ive actually waxed rusty chains before, and the rust just gets pushed out, and the chain is eventually indistinguishable from a new chain, with no less wear.
As a general rule for me: Modern narrow chains never lasted for more then one year in my whole lifetime and only one of them got destroyed becouse of my own stupidity. They twist much too easily and i only care about not having any force on the padles as long as the gear isn't 100% in place and never let any stick or stone even touch it in the forest.... So i don't care for the chain maintenance as much as i did with 9x (driving much wilder and harder) where it was common for me to cycle more then two years and over 15k km before changing a worn out but still intact chain. My foldable Bike still has its original way over 20 years old 7x chain. Changed the tires twice inbetween becouse they were done. But its still not too long, still not worn out, still flexible, not a single chainlink is damaged or doesnt move properly. So how much can i save? Nothing. I spend 30€ a year for a chain, 2,50€ every few years for oil and not a single 11x chain got worn out before something else broke.... normally it's one original bolt loosing the inner part of the chain. At 10/11x it was never ever my own (chain-)bolt, last time this happened was 9x. So maybe i can save money on the cassette or front chainrings... hmmm ... last one lasted over 50k km, never had to buy a new one before some part in my head wanted something new anyways... exept 9x, this was the system for me, where i should have changed the chain maybe one or two times more often so i could have saved maybe one or two cassettes and one set of chainrings in the front... but 9x was so chaep in the end, i got a XT "spiderarmcassette" for 30€... so what could i save? Edit: some mistakes corrected, btw i'm a mountainbiker and biketraveller as well as a-to-b-everyday-biker. Feel free to correct my english.
I tested the water by switching from wet oil lubes to a drip on wax lube (Squirt) and found my chains lasted much longer and were much cleaner. After investing in a cheap / basic slow cooker and an old spoke, I've now upgraded to full immersive waxing. Waxing is no more time consuming than oiling, it's just a different method of lubing your chain and one that extends the life of your drivetrain, saves you money and something that wasn't mentioned in the chat with ZFC, your drivetrain is so much cleaner, after working on it, a quick wash with soap and water and you're good to go.
So much focus is on the speed, when to sell it to people all they have to say is you can take off your chain, put on a new one with your bare hands, and not have to wash them after. Literally handling a factory new chain that isn't waxed as messier than handling a waxed chain with 500 miles on it.
"Waxing is no more time consuming than oiling, it's just a different method of lubing your chain" Right! You just have to a) remove it b) clean it c) cook it in wax d) repeat vs doing nothing but dripping some oil on it when it looks dry and wiping the grime off now and then. Perhaps you use a different way to measure time consumption but waxing involves a LOT of time and equipment...all to extend the life of a $50 consumable part. But the PT Barnums who market stuff to the chain-wax cult know their marks...er, customers. The money's in the consumable stuff, the bags o'wax, the bottles of drip wax, etc. vs a bottle of chain oil that lasts a long, long time. I don't know how they get away with claims of saving money..seems like SPENDING money IMHO.
You should try it before you knock it. It's worth it to me just for how clean your chain is. I can handle my chain with bare hands and never worry they will get greasy. Drop a chain on a ride? No problem, my hands will be just as clean as they were before after i put it back on. It also really makes the whole chain maintenance things much easier when its not such a dirty greasy process. Once you realize that you can wax a batch of chains in the time that it takes you to give your bike a good clean, its really just becomes part of the process.@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786
Waxing does NOT involve a lot of time and I'd hardly call one slow cooker / crock pot a lot of equipment. Waxing not only extends the life of your chain but also your cassette and chain rings.@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 Have you tried? plus it's a $50 consumable part running over and wearing down hundreds of dollars worth of cassette and chainrings too.. and literally takes less than 10 minutes to pop off and chuck into the cooker, come back an hour later, drip dry and back on the bike. Wayyy quicker than dripping wet lube on top of the sand and crap that's stuck to a wet chain.
I have been waxing chains on all my bikes for a couple of years. It is amazing. It is simple and fast and keeps getting easier to do. Silca Strip Chip is a true revolutionary product. You save 10x the money using wax without the cost of wearing out chains and gears. Plus it is clean. No more greasy grimy hands working on bikes.
I agree, I just got the kit. I will run at least two high end chain and just rotate. What, it takes 5 min for klutz like me to swap a chain? To save $800 for drive train and chains? Beyond no brainer. Plus the waxed chain just runs so quiet and smooth!
Not just hands, the number of times ive gotten chain bite on the leg i didn't realize and greased couches or clothes, is more than i care to admit. But it's literally not an issue with a waxed chain, they are so clean people wont believe it if they haven't run one. You can take a chain with 250 miles on it, put the bike on a stand, take a rag, and run the chain through it like you would to clean a normal chain, and not get much more than the surface dust from your last ride. I cant emphasize enough how much cleaner they are.
Tell us how you "save $800 for drive train and chains" vs how much you spent on the entire wax-cult ensemble. And then present data on how another lube method would have compared.I've yet to read any objective evaluations of the wax vs oil from anyone not involved in selling something. @@stephendenagy3396
Totally. After the initial reset of the chain it takes 10minutes. No need to regularly clean drive chain either which saves a bunch of time (and money) as well
Yep. Agreed. The only reason not to would be if you ride in wet conditions a lot. I rewax every time I wash my bike which isn’t that often. I actually wash the chain with the bike then take it off and dry it and put it in the wax pot. Works great for me. I don’t ride in wet conditions if I can help it
I usually reuse my quick link about 4X and then replace. Was reusing over and over 8-12 or more times and had several issues on the road and racing. Sorry my opinion only. But have been removing my chain and cleaning 🧼 for many years.
This is my scepticism about no faff. You have to get a chain breaker and pins or quick link pliers and quick links. Maybe it’s habit but degreasing and re-lubing just seems easier to me. Invest in a chain checker (Shimano based on ZCF’s reviews) and replace the chain when worn.
Reused my quick links (xo1& xx1) many, many times. Between two chains 4500miles with cleaning every 50-150miles. In xo1 & xx1 case, they aren’t that fragile.
Ultrasonic cleaning, please tell me you are also waxing with that amount of effort. That is way more effort than waxing. I use an ultrasonic on some things, but that is basically a strip and re-lube.
My first chain and cassette lasted only 2500km, had no clue about maintenance. Stretch well over 1%, didn't spot it in time. Cassette was done for as well, new chain skipped liked crazy, couldn't even leave my own street. Second one I did 2000km + 2500km with 2 chains on one cassette. This was with wet lube. By this time, the chain rings were dead as well. Pointy like a shark, lost almost half the width of the teeth compared to the new one. Probably the first 2500km did most of the damage. Then switched to drip-on wax and started rotating the chains every 1000km. The next set latest 12.000km for 2 chains, 1 cassette. Currently approaching the same distance on my current set; one chain is at 0.75% stretch. Cassette still looks fine, but difficult to tell. What do you reckon, can I run another chain (or 2) on this cassette? What about the chain rings that now did 24.000km, mostly on the big ring. I find this drive train maintenance / replacement thing quite difficult to judge still. To complete the picture: I am not the most smooth rider, tend to ride low candence, ride through the winter with salted and wet roads. I think I am doing a reasonable job with cleaning and relubing nowadays. Did a 3000km ride this summer with only very basic maintenance.
Thanks for sharing this content. I e been waxing my MTB chain for a couple of years now and even with harsh conditions I get 2-3 thousand miles out of my chain before replacing it and I’ve had the same cassette and chain ring for 3 years. The extra time to apply wax is worth it!
Good point. I've been pretty good at catching my chain elongation before it goes over the threshold. However, if ONE waxed chain lasts as long as 10 non-waxed chains, then imagine that's about 10X more cassette wear that will be avoided. Color me excited!!! @makantahi3731 And yes, I found a video demonstration of "re-spacing" a worn cassette with a Dremel. Haven't tried it myself yet, but I plan on doing it to an 8-speed XTR cassette that I didn't catch in time. That's an $80 out-of-production cassette that I can bring back to life.
Yup, me too. People act like it’s some new thing, but that’s just because the internet has propagated the idea. The old school method I was taught was a brick of canning paraffin mixed with ~10-25% motor oil melted in a double boiler (I used a smaller coffee can inside a large coffee can) over a camping stove. I still do a variation of this and it works great.
The movie "Breaking Away" is what totally solidified cycling for me. I was already an avid rider, but that movie got me road riding. And I watched Dave wax his chains, but waited until now to FINALLY do it. I'm an idiot.
Running 2-3 chains on all my bikes and washing them every 200km extended the life of my cassettes and chainrings. I have 2 road bikes with Ultegra R8000 cassettes with 15k km each and they still work perfectly.
Even tho' the video is 42 mins long, if Adam was let go at his own steam, it would have been twice that! :D I love what he is doing: demystifying the bullcr@p that companies come up with to justify their expensively rebadged bog-standard industrial product A lubricants.
@@kidShibuya I'm absolutely certain that he's going to use introspection to fuel his immense modesty to formulate a sophisticated and appropriate response...
Yes, he will be. But at least we can depend on him to post a long hateful rant full of misinformation, lies, ignorance, and stupidity--which I won't watch, because I have better things to do with my life!
Best thing I ever did going over to immersive wax 18 months ago. Takes 15min every month to rewax chain and I never need to clean the drive chain/cassette/chain ring ever. Only need to quickly wash frame. Bicycle looks like new all the time.Barely any wear after 10k
Agreed, but I run 3 chains in rotation, swap them out when they make noise, rewax them together monthly. Im doing 600 miles a month though. But even if it wasn't faster, the cleanliness factor is more than worth it. Swapping out chains is such a non issue as soon as you realize you can do it with bare hands and not have to wash them after.
@@danielhand1729 about every 400ks. Turn on slow cooker. Drop chain in. Come back an hour later when wax melted, then put back on bike. But yes. As chain starts to get noisy that's a good clue
Good episode 👍 The fact that lubricants and waxes develop.. do not increase the lifetime of the chain.. they only give the opportunity to make the chain from cheaper raw materials 😁 Why are most waxes based on paraffin? Why not use harder types of wax.. some waxes are almost as hard as plastic??
Applicability & cost. Paraffin is available and usable, whereas other more sophisticated waxes require very specific application treatments, and tend towards a more permanent treatment, like a deposited coating, which can't be broken down and reapplied as needed. '
What’s going on with “dry lube” these days. Seems as though no one is talking about dry lubes anymore. As well as this video is, I was hoping for some insight behind the dry lubes. Anyway, great video!
I have a solid cheap chain lube and quick degreasing process! Buy a decent fully synthetic 2-stroke engine oil and fill one of your old chain lube bottles that you probably payed the same price for as the 1 liter of 2-stroke oil! To degrease, a quick spray with GT85, leave it 2 minutes then jet wash off. I'm getting amazing results with this and saving time and money! I use Castrol Power 1 Racing and in the wet the water beads off the chain and cassette and remains almost completely silent!
I’ve been watching Adam’s videos from the start and started immersive waxing a couple years ago. I will never go back. My drivetrain is always fast, clean and friction free. Chain still looks like new after two years. I only have to rewax twice per summer.
Back in 1988-89 I was putting in a TON of miles. Some weeks were 350-400, even 450 miles. I was so sick of wearing out chains. Yes, the SedisSport Silver was an amazing chain, and cheap too. But man, was I going through stuff, despite my attention to detail on drive train maintenance and chain care. So I did the most natural thing a bike guy could do and splurged for the MOST expensive chain at the time. $60 Roholoff or Wipperman or whatever it was. Damn thing wore out FASTER than the tried-and-true $11 SedisSport! (Turns out that this chain was maybe the best ever produced for the price. Shoulda bough a container of 'em!) So I've always "grinned and beared it" and just accepted the fact that chains are consumable items. Despite almost any efforts, they just wear out. *NOT SO FAST!!!!* Live and learn they say. Yup.
$20 for 10 lbs. of paraffin from craft store. Another $20 for disulfide powders. I now have enough wax to last me, my family and our 20 bikes, a lifetime. All for $40. For lube you hardly have to worry about. No fuss, no muss. No more black grunge. No more stained clothing, or *GASP* a rookie mark on your right calf! Oh the humanity!!!! You don't have to spend much for high durability & performance.
Do you know who will make a fortune? Invent a SUPER EASY method to clean and wax your chain without taking the chain off the bike, use a crockpot, etc. etc...OR , if you like the current process so much, sell quality PRE-WAXED chains online. The first idea could be 'wishful thinking", but IDC lol. The second idea though, is genius.
Think of just how much petroleum product is being washed into the environment by cyclists using oil - myself included (up until now).* ** Wet rides are brutal on chains. So by the end, most of your lube is gone and you're gonna have to clean and dry the chain and re-apply your wet lube. Only to repeat the process after the next rain ride. Someone commuting daily in wet weather is going through a LOT of petroleum product. And with today's chemical industry, you just KNOW those "low-friction additives" are NOT improving the situation for the environment. Lots of "forever chemicals" are being released over and over and over and over again. For this reason alone, switching to wax is worthwhile. Even if it were on par or even worse performance-wise, it would benefit everyone to switch. But with the performance advantages, it's a total no-brainer. It's a WIN-WIN-WIN-WIN situation. If the bicycle industry actually cared about this issue, they'd take a stand and pre-wax all chains before they leave the factory. Wet lube manufacturers? Join the buggy whip crowd. Evolve or die. We cannot simply say, "OK, keep adding toxins to the enviroNnent because we can't lose these jobs." Hogwash. *And yes, this PALES in comparison to the petroleum-based transportation modes. But still. Just look at annual worldwide chain lube sales - that's going into your and my water, soil and even the air. ** Damn, I wrote this just seconds before seeing the image at 31:00! See what I mean? Washing outside right into the soil/runoff paths!
Will 150 year old chain and cog technology "stand the test of time?" It already has! And it will persist. With the bicycle's incredibly weak motor (human), efficiency losses are unacceptable. Transmissions, although effective, are heavy, expensive and rob efficiency. Heavier and less efficient is a double-whammy. There's definitely a place for them - especially with e-bikes - but for the meat-powered versions, this system reigns supreme. Never say never, but it doesn't look likely.
What’s your take on quick links? I’ve been waxing my road bike chains for over a year and I have been reusing my quick links with no problem. Now I’m considering waxing my new e-bike chain and SRAM says T-type links are one use only. Meaning every waxing would cost an extra $6.00.
I'm probably imagining it, but I seem to feel faster on the second halves of my mountain bike rides with wax. Total confirmation bias, but there is factual basis behind it: chain performance doesn't degrade through a ride like it does with non-immersion wax lubricants. Now 3-5 watts is indeed nothing, but it sure seems real. Then again, my fitness level is higher than it has been in over a year. So there's that. Combining the two for the win? Sure, I'll take it! PS Happy to add that I didn't need my largest cog on yesterday's ride either. Not THAT hard a ride, but I did hit some steeps and decent climbing, where before I was jumping into the large cog a lot. Ironically, I'm kinda disappointed at the same time because it's the large cog where I do hear the ill effects of the 12-speed chainline. Definite cross-chaining clash on this bike (and it derails off the large cog when backpedaling). Thus I haven't been able to evaluate how the wax does in this non-ideal gear combination; oh well. That said, if I'm enjoying higher efficiency combined with better fitness and this keeps me out of the large cog, then I'm gonna see even longer drive train life. Nice to have a "bail out" gear needed only for the infrequent situations.
From 5-8 speeds the insides of the chains stayed more or less constant - the outsides of the chains were getting skinnier. Same holds true from 9-12, i guess. But still the stretch comes from the side plates, so skinnier side plates = more stretch ...
I have read somewhere that the main contributor of chain "stretch" is actually not the actual stretching of the links but rather the wearing away of the "bearings" connecting each link. (More wear means more play. Stacking all that play for all the links gives a longer chain) Would explain why they only talk about the insides of the chains in this video too.
31:45 - So what you're saying is Don't ride in the rain so you can make your chain last longer If you do ride in the rain. Use a bike that has an enclosed drive chain. i.e. probably something like a velomobile Also cycle through a handful of chains. So that no 1 chain is past the 0.5 or 0.75 mark
ok TIL. i can actually just use wax/wax based lube even in rainy conditions. i've always thought that you're supposed to use wet lube in EU fall/winter. definitely wasted a casette/chainring also by leaving the chain on too long lol 😅
Nothing wrong with going cheap on the chain. The YBN single speed chain I like is 12 bucks, but has a tensile strength of 1300 Kgf which is fine to hold a pro track sprinter sprinting. These bike people will tell you anything to make a buck. As for making it last forever, why would you want to? The longer the chain is on the bike the more likely a side plate will snap on you, it's not worth it.
i actually don't like complicated procedure for maintenance..i would rather buy cheaper cassette and chain...but i also want to wax my bike, because the home trainer is just beside the hanging clothes. dirty chain oil on the cloth my wife would like to kill me :)
Hey Mike, That spot outside Uwajimaya where you are trying to nail that curved wall ride over the benches is RAD!!!! I thought about doing that like 6 years ago. I'm just not that good at wall rides, can't bunny hop that high anymore, at 54 years old I don't have the balls anymore to hit it fast enough anymore. I will now live vicariously through you now! Thanks for being original and BAD ASS!
@GCNTech I have used low-temp dripon wax this winter (N Sweden, so real winter). I got a lot of rust on the outside of the chain, no matter what I did, so put on some wet lube now when the snow is thawing. It was perfectly fine with wax when we had -5 to -38C. But i had to take the bike into the garage, wait a few hours for it to get warm (+5C) and apply the dripon and then let it dry overnight.
Ti-N is really just for the bling, as the coating is only a few microns thick, and wears off at friction points in no time flat. X12 chains are pretty solid in themselves, with decent tolerances, and once you get their gooey packing grease off, hold onto wax coating pretty well.
This was a fantastic interview for people that geek out on mechanics. I vote for more of stuff like this. I have multiple chains in rotation, so I always have a fresh waxed chain ready to roll when it's time to rewax
Same, I am running 3 chains, swap them the ride they make noise, takes 15 seconds with a quick link, and since they are waxed, no mess at all, so that part is out of your mind. One chain in my rotation is on 3k miles of beach riding, and I can BARELY tell it from the newer chains. Im convinced a waxed chain if swapped out when it starts to make noise will last longer than a set of tires.
@@gcntech I started doing this about 5 years ago when I started waxing my chains as it just made it more convenient. the quick links help make it a lot easier as well.
yea yeah... Cheap chain lasted me long time... changed for a new one, shimano and 1 ride without changing gear it broke... and the chain feels springy ... i don't know mate... i don't know ....
yes as per comment below - cheap chains can last a long time when they are ridden until they are extremely worn and thus have worn out rest of drivetrain so that a new chain will not run. I am sure i covered that bit... :)
More of this content style, please! This is what I like. Conversational pieces are more engaging and something I prefer. The quick cuts and flashy style is just kinda overkill, IMO. I prefer when GCN gets more REAL like this. You guys make good content and I do just appreciate this style, and it has to be a bit easier to produce, too. Win/Win/Win
We love creating a range of content for every cycling fan, super cool to hear that you are enjoying this long form content! Are there any other topics that you would like us to cover?
It is more work, but a lot less wipe-down than with drip lubes, so it evens out a little bit. The best way is to have several chains (with reusable quicklinks), wax them all at once in a batch, and cycle through the chains. That chain switchout alone reduces wear on the cogs and chainring, improving shifting and lifespan a lot.
Your typical drip lube could very well last you less than that, but you won't notice because the chain will be silent even long after your lube has turned into liquid sand paper. The wax on the other hand, won't lie to you - you'll hear the drive train noise increase even before it's really time to re-wax.
@@rasmuswi that's exactly my experience. I used to use crappy oil and relube too often and that masked the noise but I ended up with a drivetrain covered in a disgusting black gunk. Wax prevents all that but it certainly takes a different mindset you have to get used to. Once you're, it's freaking black-mess-non-tattoos-paradise.
The roads on my commute are so crappy I switched back to 7 speed, cheaper parts. Use Viking Juice in winter, Squirt rest of year. Measure chain often and replace at .5%
yeah his point though is that because of the wear rate of those cheaper chains, that turns out to be a false sense of economy when you actually calculate out the mileage you get from your lube and the chain, and the other components all together. apparently you missed the point in the video where he talks about how those 8-9-10 speed chains are cheaper because they don't have any protective coating at all and they're made from softer metal, so even without any contaminant they're going to wear out faster then the other chains anyway. of course he hasn't been able to do any testing with road-salt and snow, I think though he could do one of his test blocks with salt water and that would at least give an idea, even if he can't do snow, I would think it would actually be similar because the salt dust (post storm, after the roads have all dried out) and salt water is what really seems to mess up my chain.
@@markusseppala6547he talks about that on his own channel. 0.75% is too late, 0.5% is the limit, 0.3% is optimal... remember his entire goal is to make the cassette and chain rings last as long as possible because those are the most expensive components. he kind of alludes to it in this conversation, but for the most part he sticks to talking about the chain, because the chain is the biggest factor. the reason 0.5% is the limit is because of what he was talking about here, the wear-rate growth is exponential. most people don't have a new chain ready to go, and they think that when they hit that 0.5% that they have plenty of time to get a new chain, or they don't have time in that moment to do it, and by the time they actually change it, it's way past that 0.75%. and now they also need a new cassette and possibly chainrings. and I have to say that I myself have been caught out by this several times, and I actually noticed the wear on the cassette before I even thought it was time to check for 0.75%
Wipperman do high quality 7 speed chains. My fully plated YBN chains cost just £4 each and are great, I get good 7 speed cassettes for £11. I don't believe his spiel. I check for stretch regularly replace at .5% stretch, so cassette lasts 3 chains.
Great interview, this sort of content really inspires me to take good care of my bike, within personal budgetary constrains of course. I'd caution against the optimism though, running and carbon-plated shoes in particular are a good example of faster and more advanced tech being so advanced at the expense of longevity. Anyway, I look forward to waxing my next chain (not sure if I have the courage to do it myself yet, as a newcomer to the sport, or will have a bike shop do it instead) and hopefully also see some more insightful videos like this one!
We're sure that you will be able to wax the chain yourself, Ollie makes it nice and simple in this video 👉ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pu2cdw76eUE.html
I Also Wax My Chain, it Does Definitely Make the Chain Last Longer. We Use BananaWax Drag & Friction TDF Racing Chain Wax on our bikes. The Problem is The Wax is as Much as a New Chain. The One Positive It does Cover 4 Chains From a Pot.
Why not just use canning paraffin? I’ve never understood the idea of using candles-they contain dyes and fragrances, and are certainly more $ per pound than “Gulf Wax” paraffin in 1lb bricks.
The Aussie guy (another video) actually used candles, thought how goofy is that? I have used gulf canning wax for nearly a decade. Inexpensive and easy to buy.
About chain stretch…I’ve just replaced my Ultegra chain with a new one (like for like). Out of curiosity, I lay the old chain against the new chain and over the span of 53 links (or 106 pins) there was a difference of a full link (distance between 2 pin). Is that amount of stretch normal? The old chain was regularly cleaned, degreased and lubed with a wax based product so the wear really surprised me. I replaced the cassette at the same time and the shifting was MASSIVELY improved. However, whenever I put the hammer down out of the saddle, I get a huge amount of slippage on the crank’s chain rings (dangerous!). The Ultegra chain rings have around 5000 miles on them but look OK. Is it standard practice to replace all 3 main parts of the drive train at the same time? Should I replace chainset too?
if you have a full link difference then it amounts to about 2%. Considering they say we should replace the chains when they reach 0.5% wear, so it does not wear the other components too much. You kept it for too long and now the new chain does not sit well on the chainring.
So please riddle me this... I've done over 20000km with just two chains. 2 cassettes (indoors and outdoors). Without using wax. Reading on all this zero friction stuff it should have cost me a fortune. It did not. But maybe it's just the Dutch weather 🤷
@@shawnington good for you! My point being that zero friction was not able to ride 500km with my setup and I'm over 20000km and still counting. Making statements about the industry doesn't want you to last your components are quite a bold one for me.
Ha! please tell me who that is so i can get my cheque and retire! Let me tell you it was sponsored by Big Logic. you tell me how running solid lubricant that coats all parts of the chain and also flush cleans any small amount of contamination that does get in each re lube - how is that not going to be the day in day out lowest friction and wear path? And if it saves a lot of wear it saves a lot of $$. It sure isnt sponsored by "Big Groupset Component" then i guess. :)
GCN, thought provoking discussion on chain maintenance and lubricant. Albeit one important omission was made in regard to money saved by performing appropriate maintenance and lubrication. Medical bills, time away from work, trip cancellations , etc. secondary to injuries sustained from a dropped chain during an aggressive acceleration. I can personally attest to over $10,000 in medical bills and missing out on a bucket list trip to Europe to cycle across the Pyrenees mountains last fall (pun intended) secondary to a punctured lung, rib fractures, shoulder fractures, circumferential labral tear, ego bruising that could’ve been avoided by proper chain maintenance and lubrication. Spend $60 to save $500? Quite the underestimation! love the content as always. Cheers, RPW
so sorry to hear of that incident ryan! hope all healed now! And yes alas there isnt the conclusive data yet - i wish there was. It would be great to know that say by 1% wear chain is X % tensile strength weaker, and / or due to lateral wear X % more likely to have a chain drop etc - but we just dont have that. Suffice to say it will increase as the chain wears, and for sure a very worn chain will be more likely to snap or jump off vs a good condition chain. It is something we hope to learn more about in future, but you are right, broadly speaking - that should have been mentioned as well as it is a reality, and if the worst outcome from that does eventuate - its a rough time :(
@@zerofrictioncycling992 as someone who tandems, I would argue that chain strength loss is negligible at best. (Unless a chain is worn WAY past the .5% elongation threshold. Then, all bets are off.) And by "tandem" I mean on and off road. Off road puts EXTREME load on the rear chain. Two riders with steep terrain and very low gearing and HUGE additional factors: NO front wheel lift and no rear wheel traction loss. This explains why my partner and I have blown up SIX rear hubs. Two were Hugi, and another was a Phil Wood FSC tandem hub we literally split in half. (We've subsequently damaged later Phil hubs as well, but repaired the internals prior to failure.) That was on Slickrock trail where torque loads are OFF THE CHARTS. 100% unreal traction on incredibly steep inclines. No other bike can create sustained torque loads like a tandem. (Again, an e-bike will either flip, and/or lose rear wheel traction at certain loads - which are below what tandems generate on a sustained basis.) And my point? We've NEVER broken a main chain. 30 years riding tandem and not a single main chain failure. One timing chain failed when a rock was kicked up and was sandwiched between chainring and timing chain. Duh, that will break any chain or belt! We've ridden Utah, the Sierra, Colorado and lots of California steep trails and have yet to see a main chain fail. But chains DO fail, but it's not due to typical wear or lack of strength. It's almost always over-loading during a shift or failure of installation or maintenance. But a properly installed and maintained chain won't fail due to loads. Otherwise, we tandem riders would be blowing them up left and right. (As would the monster track riders who put out ungodly torque as well. See the German "toaster boy" as an example!)
Help me out on this one viewers. Although I wax my chain and love it, where are they getting these $500+ figures for chains and cassettes? I just checked Amazon for an Ultegra 12 speed cassette and it was $90. The Ultegra 12 speed M8100 chain was in the $50 range. What am I missing here?
I think they are assuming the very top tier of each brand. Not sure about the other brands but the only reasons for Dura-Ace are if you have more money than you know what to do with, or someone else is paying you to race.
Adam loves to stretch the truth and then slice it up for half truths lol. Just another snake oil seller IME. Squirt lube is king. Wax is too much faff and cost.
New chains are always dipped in a vat of wax before being packed and shipped. I remember a time (not that long ago) when people degreased their new waxed chains prior to installation and then re-greasing them with WD40! In fact, I’m retty sure even Simon, Mr GCN himself, used to use washing up liquid and WD40 on his drivetrain!
I always a wet petroleum based lube. This is because I always do a full solvent bath wash of the chain each time I service my bike. Chain stays visually clean for ~300-400kms, with a service life of up to 800kms. Wax, dry and 'eco' lubes are a pain to completely wash off and clean out. Basic petroleum lubes clean off with organic solvents really well, leaving the chain spotless clean. Chain rings and cassette are also solvent bathed and scrubbed. Had the same Titanium record 10s and Super Record cassettes with the same chains now for over 5, years and + 10k KMs each (on different bikes.) Key to this is using the correct amount of lube. Here it's a case of less is more. After the lube is applied on the bench (1 very small drop per link, chain off the bike.) Then run the chain through your fingers to work the lube through a few times. Then dry the chain with a lint free rag. Really dry it. I then like to hang it for a while while I clean/service the rest of the bike. Allows an volatiles to flash off. Give it 1 more wipe before reinstallation. It's an effort to clean, but after all this time, everything still looks and rides brand new. Even the softer Ti cogs.
My wife and I purchased a spare chain so we always have a fully waxed chain ready to go. Pair that with a wippermann link for tool less chain removal. The whole process is painless and fast.
I'm just beside myself with joy! 51 years cycling and FINALLY took the immersion wax plunge! (And I watched Dave wax his chain in "Breaking Away" in '79, so it's not like I didn't know ALL ABOUT IT for most of that time!) Mountain bike ride #4 in the books today and cannot believe how well my chain has stood up to four dry, dusty California 10+ mile rides. First three were in coastal CA sandstone dirt, last ride was in low Sierra andesite soils (VERY abrasive). Chain's still running like the minute I pulled it from the hot wax and put it on the Ripley. Only care is post-ride wipe-down of chain & associated parts. Why leave the dust on it? (I can't keep away.) Chain's 2 years old using Rock & Roll Extreme & Gold (less so), so I degreased it and dumped it into my own secret recipe of candle wax & disulfide powders. *"YOWZA!!!!"* is all I can say. I'm convinced. And kicking myself for waiting WAY, WAY, WAY TOO LONG to make the switch.
