I am sure you know this already. But for the benefit of your viewers. The best way to clean up the spilled brake fluid from surfaces quick and easy is the rinse with plain water. The old school guy.
Unless it;s raining or there are fire ants on the driveway, then it may go under the exact center of the car, so you have to get on your belly to retrieve it.
What a screwing auto mechanics have taken because of the rich mans GREED! They like to call it technological advancement. You think that’s bad, you should see the screwing aircraft mechanics have taken. You’d think your working on the freaking space shuttle these days🥴 they suck even worse!
a former friend of mine worked in "engineering" they pan the engine bay with cad, with no thougths of maintenance, as no one of those ppl ever held a wrench or tool. it is only bells and whistles. he told me how they had to redesign some parts as it was impossible to work on the car. this is how it is made today. so annoying.
Didn't bring the car in until the pedal was to the floor. AAA battery installed by AAA emergency roadside assistance. Do ya think the owner doesn't fix anything until it absolutely doesn't work anymore?
I thought the same exact thing when I saw that AAA battery! LOL I was like “yeah, only when they’re stranded on the side of the road do they use a mechanics services..”.
I had a braking incident (long ago) with my '69 Mustang - had brake pad replacement at a local shop, picked up, all Ok, next day on the way back home from work and coming up to a stoplight the brake pedal went right to the floor with no resistance! Brown pants time! Got stopped with the parking brake before I hit a line of stopped cars in front of me, and the cautiously made my way back to the garage (shaking all the time) - they fixed it, no explanation as to what happened. Never went back to them.
First time I've seen a pressure brake bleeding machine (I've only got a hand operated pressure brake bleeder similar to a garden sprayer that attaches to the master cylinder cap.
I mean I've only replaced a master on one of my cars and that was my 97 Chevy pickup. 01 sienna, 05 Audi, 08 Audi are all original. Not really a common replacement part.
Get this. I had a 2004 Grand Prix which loved to drain the power steering. Drove it for so fucking long without any. Couldn’t find the spot. Turns out It’s way back behind the engine, to the left, down a foot, hard left, don’t burn yourself here when you pump them after and need to put the cap back on, in this tight little spot, and if you hit a flashlight on it in just the right way, you can see it fine.
I'm sure every manufacturer screws this up but no one beats Ford for the worst designs overall. For a company that has been doing it longer than anyone else, you sure can't tell it. Never ever will I own a Ford again.
@@johnnyshell2839 My daughters BF had a Prius with that same setup. The bitch of it was that if the battery was dead, you had to climb into the back to reach the lever to open the hatch so that you could jump start it.
Seriously. This video showed up in my feed today and all I'm left with is remembering how tedious bleeding everything is after changing the master cylinder.
@@ilbercgross4736 most definitely. I enjoy the combination of listening to car talk (currently don't have any fellow shade trees to hang out with) and general banter
Before a design is finalized, the people who designed it should have to take it apart and reassemble it, then adjust the design as required, but we all know that will never happen.
I have family that have been on the manufacturing side, sales and repair (myself included on the last one for 30 years) and as good as that sounds, it'll never happen. Automotive engineers are the worst of the engineer bunch and think their collective shit doesn't stink.
1 of the first things we were taught in auto shop years ago was when you hop in a vehicle is check the brakes before moving any vehicles even if they are there for something so minor like a oil change.
Not only have I always wanted to see what car repair looked like without me getting cursed out, but youre really funny. I love this content. Also, I think your narration and general outlook is wonderful.
The more I watch this guy work the more I appreciate older vehicles and how much less skill was needed to repair them. It seems like today diagnosis and figuring out a repair method is half the problem!
sometimes I rarely use my brakes on the freeway if you keep a good following distance you don't really need them... (engine braking is enough) my suv also has regeneration.....
in school i had teacher who said give the rider good brakes in practice so he can learn to go fast, then give him crappy brakes in the race so he'll go even faster
Thanks for doing a proper road test. Had a “total bleed” brake job done on an avalanche years ago. Got downtown and a jeep full of kids pulled in front of me and I had zero pedal. Slammed on e brake and stopped thank God.
Mr. Ray. You are an honest mechanic.. I enjoy your videos. I am an amateur at working on my cars. thanks for your educational videos and humor. Keep it up.
'Old Geezer Gearhead' here again. I watched you gain access to the damn master cylinder, and thought back over 60 yrs. I was 17 in April of 1960, and bought a 1949 'cherry ' Plymouth the day I turned 17. It was a nice car. About 3 months later, the brakes went out. Guess where the master cylinder was?? Under the floor. With, through the floor pedal arms. AND, we thought that was bad. Until I watched you in this video. Thank you for posting these videos.
Change name to working at an independent shop doing gravy customer pay work all day. I'm going to get a job at an independent for sure now. If I knew how much gravy work was done at these places I would have changed jobs long ago. Looking forward to never having to worry about another warranty audit or the mfg. cutting warranty time cuz some dumb A$$ told them how to do it faster and got a $50 gift card for screwing us! @Rainman Ray's Repairs I can't thank you enough for making all these videos and the hard work you do editing and posting them! keep it up you are awesome...
Your videos are hypnotic. I have a new found respect for auto mechanics. Amazing skill and patience. From the scenery looks like I live not far from your shop. Thanks for posting.
Wow, a power brake bleeder. I made one myself, using a 1 gallon sprayer an old res cap and tubing. And the recovery was tubing and a jar. It cost about $30 and works great, but I have to pump it up myself; however no pump motor to break.
What I like about working on my Corvair is almost everything is so easy to get to. You could replace the master cylinder with a 12" Crescent wrench if wanted to as there is that much room!
Love the Corvair's engineering and features. GM , especially the Chevrolet division at it's best. Yes, they quickly fixed the problem with rear-end swing, but it was mostly tire pressure and C of G.
Toolbox is starting to look like AVE's healing bench! Seriously, great work and great channel, makes me glad I'm a heavy duty guy and not an auto tech. Stuff is so tight on cars these days I have huge respect for you guys that do it day in and day out.
Your vids are great to watch. My two brothers are mechanically inclined. I was the brother that handed them the tools and kept things organized. I’ve always been jealous that my comprehension on your occupation goes way over my head.
Had a guy bring in his wrangler because it had no reverse, walking out to it notice a puddle of fluid at rf wheel. Looked real quick and 1/2 the rotor ground away and piston blown out. Gave customer quote on transmission and brake job, of course he declined and drove away. 2 week later comes back bitchin because I didn't do an oil change, still no reverse and no brakes. I was about ready to call the cops, off he drove again after they had a GS do an oil change on the ground. It pisses me of that there are those stupid people out there jeoprodizing other people's live out there.
It’s amazing how some folks can walk and breath at the same time! Wearing seat belts and brakes the work, and never running out of gas, (among other things) seem like the simplest of things that need to happen when you drive a vehicle. Still, people don’t see life this way… . We live in dangerous times… .
I know it's an older video now, and your RU-vidring has just gotten better and better already, but I like seeing your troubleshooting as much as the repairs. I would have liked to see what you did to confirm that it was a faulty master cylinder. I know very, very little about car repair, and even less about diagnostic procedures, so knowing how you arrived at the conclusion of defective master cylinder would have been aces. I love your vids, I have learned a LOT in the past few weeks since I stumbled across your channel. Keep up the great work!
The way to tell if it is a defective master cylinder needing replacement is having a soft brake pedal that sinks to the floor. The first step is check the master cylinder is full of fluid, if it is to the maximum mark or slightly below then proceed to each caliper and rear drum/caliper and check for any leakage, if not then proceed to getting a new master cylinder and replace it as Ray did in the video. There is not much diagnostic in this video but it is true on almost all vehicles if the master cylinder is faulty.
@@poiu477 What normally fails is there are several valves along the piston which are sealed from each other with o-rings. If one of the o-rings fail they allow pressure to escape to the adjacent area of the piston which can lead to mushy brakes and the brake pedal to sink to the floor. Sometimes you can pump the brakes rapidly to rebuild the pressure and stop.
@@mikeske9777 Thank you for the quick reply and description, that jives with what I assumed from looking up models of standard master cylinders, I really appreciate your helping me understand.
Enjoy watching the videos I’ve been retired years now and find the tools used fascinating sorry you get negative feed back but I really enjoy watching and please don’t listen to negativity I watch because I like it keep making the videos and keep safe
I enjoy your videos. I am retired now but I was a former jet engine mechanic, motorcycle mechanic,car mechanic and welding inspector working with mostly production of stainless products.
Earlier this year, the brakes suddenly went soft on my 01 TL, so I limped it over to my garage. I was leaving a nice trail of brake fluid while I was parking it. Turns out, the brake lines had corroded and failed, so a new set was installed. Moral of the story, if you have an older car, especially in the rust belt, get the brake lines inspected periodically and replace them if they look crusty.
I have an '00 TL, not in the rust belt, but I'll keep an eye on my brake lines. Thanks for the heads up! So many interesting things that can happen to a 22 year-old car.
Hey Ray Can you add commentary about diagnostics pls. You just jumped to master cylinder R&R. No check rotor/pad wear, calliper seal, brake lines etc. You have an opportunity to teach the younger crowd.
I agree. The line nuts being dry before he removed them makes it obvious that he didn't even crack the lines at the master loose while somebody was pushing on the brake pedal, the classic way to diagnose a bad master.
@@quickturn66 Not always. I've seen cases where the ABS module/pump failed and caused a very soft pedal. It can also be caused by a bad brake hose. That's why you've got to confirm a diagnosis and never assume.
@@madmatt2024 we're assuming the mech diagnosed it ,after all he was right. That car is pretty new to have a flex line bulging, in my experience flex lines get hard over time and crack. As far as the abs goes if the master cylinder ( can we say master anymore) is making pressure I don't see how the abs pump (which basically pushes the pedal back up) could absorb the pressure created by the master cylinder.
@@quickturn66 I don't know how it happens but I literally saw an ABS unit cause a soft pedal last month. My poor neighbor was at his wits end after the brake pedal on his Jeep suddenly wend soft after the ABS activated and replacing the master did nothing, despite hours of bleeding it. I confirmed that there was no air in the system, no leaks, and no bulging hoses. We put a used ABS unit in it and after bleeding it by just cracking the lines there was a night and day difference in the pedal.
Every time I did a master cylinder for brakes or clutch I always thought it had to be bench bled, at least that's what the instructions said. I also don't have a bleed machine at home lol
You can make a simple one with a plastic drinks bottle , two model aircraft fuel tank nipples inserted in the side and use a tyre pumped to 15 psi for air pressure. You also need a third fuel nipple into a spare cap for the brake reservoir. The idea is you pressurise the bottle thru one of the nipples,, have a pipe to the bottom of the bottle internally on the other nipple, which goes to the master brake cylinder. The lines all have to seal and resist the pressure. . The air pressure forces brake fluid under pressure into the master cylinder. You just then nip round the wheel bleed screws , starting at the wheel with the furthest away from the master, and the air pressure forces fluid and any air out the line and the wheel cylinder.
This is much worse than when the master cylinder was mounted under the floorboard. Great respect for your even tempered approach to near impossible tasks.
Brake fluid is the worst fluid in a vehicle. Hate hydraulic fluid. I like to catch as much of it as I can first then clean up after. Drain maximum amount, absorbent diaper catch, then rinse. You guys got all of the best brake purge tools. Love it.
Hey Ray...When using swivels...I placed some electrical tape on mine to keep them fairly straight while putting them in deep places...they still swivel but don't flop...👍🇺🇲💪
Ford went above and beyond to make Lincoln sedans a pain in the ass in about every aspect. The LS 3.9 v8 is a nightmare. Pretty much have to drop the subframe to make anything accessible.
The LS was easy cash, valve cover gaskets, coils, plugs, timing chains, alxe seals and shift solenoid packs. Even the water control valves were pretty easy to work on.
@@aaronwscherer7436 I'm speaking more along the lines of the alternator, ps pump, compressor. All very difficult to access. Clearance is a problem with these shoehorned engines.
that was a great looking brake bleeder set up.. I made my own vacuum bleeder using a glass pickle jar and a translucent plastic 100cc bottle . the vacuum was obtained using a badger paint spray compressor .on the inlet side . I think your workshop version is number one ... but not within my DIY budget . I dropped a small socket adaptor in the engine bay of my 2007 2.2 HDI Citroen C6.. not a cat in hell,s chance of finding it .. I triel a scope ,magnet ,loads of light but it is still there somewhere .
I remember changing starter motor BRUSHES way back when too, idiots today just buy a new one when a lot of times it's just the brushes, they do that here in Brasil
@@gocanada9749 when I was a teenager my uncle taught me how to rebuild alternators working in his shop. Usually a set of brushes and a diode-trio, clean the rest and put it together.
@@gocanada9749 (how is "My Canada" in Brazil?) Still can change the starter brushes & contacts, and alternator brushes, diodes & voltage regulator... at least on Toyotas up to the mid 2000s. Not 100% sure about brand new ones today...
I drove my 2011 malibu like that for about 25,000 miles. Never crashed thankfully but shop after shop couldnt figure it out. Back caliper kept blowing the seal and leaking out all the fluid. Unfortunately i had no other vehicle, I wouldn’t recommend doing this but i would drive cautiously and i would downshift in manual gear selector mode on the transmission selector gradually as i was pumping and applying steady pressure to the pedal. Finally after saving some money and since I’d changed a fwd transmission before i figured i could do my own brakes, I take my car apart myself to change pads and rotors and i find a blown front caliper seal torn so bad that the piston was not retracting back in, it was holding full pressure amazingly after changing the rear first, but No wonder the rear one kept blowing. I pulled it back outside and let it sit while i waited for the other caliper to come in, so i did both drivers side calipers since the first owner i bought it from had changed both other calipers prior, and there were no issues with them and its been great brake wise 20k since. Sadly i figure the brakes out and then my car gets tboned by someone pulling out of a gas station and slamming into it while my car was going 35, we had an eye witness yet they’re still denying fault, its been in arbitration 7 months, Go figure!
When I was 17 I worked at a parking lot, 6 floors up, I retrieved a NICE red 59 Buick, I drove down to the 2nd floor no problem, making the last turn to drive up to the lady and her daughter waiting, the final turn, the brake pedal went to the floor !! I smashed into the brick wall, right in front of the lady and daughter !! When I told my boss the pedal went to the floor he got in the car and tried the pedal, it was all the way UP !! My boss blamed me for driving to fast !! No one would believe me !! After that I wanted to know why this happened, so I became a mechanic and went to every brake school that I could, WAGNER, EISE, BENDIX, CALIFORNIA HIGHWAY PATROL SAFETY SCHOOL, until I understood everything about brakes !! Now if someone says " my brake pedal went to the floor", I believe them. ( A bad master cylinder)!! I am 75 now 😜
The last master cylinder I did was in 1983 on my 1980 Ford mustang,it also turned out that someone had played with the brake booster and it was bad-i called 4 Ford dealership's trying to find one with no luck, someone was able to find a rebuilder of the booster,took it to them and it took 10 days to fix it (with them waiting for part's)I got a brand new master cylinder for it and the auto parts store I worked at did the job and afterwards it was ok, never had problems with the brakes until I got rid of it with 130,000 miles (200 c.i six cylinder)the hardest thing I did to it was the starter (under the car, fairly close to the exhaust) remanufactured starter's we're crappy and didn't last long,I eventually took it out and send to the electrical remanufacturing people and after they fixed it I never had problems again
Hi Ray . I watch U on RU-vid. I use a hea lamp so both my hands are free when I'm doing car repairs from time to time. I think you're an Awesome mechanic. I like your program 👍
@@erikrobles5727 you stick the magnet to the servo this trick I have used for years, for things other than this there is always somewhere near that it can be stuck to
ummmm....I usually check for air in the brake lines first before replacing the master. I usually check for gas in the tank before replacing a motor too. But hey...I'm a plumbing contractor....
I bleed master cylinders the way my granddad showed me. Clear Lines from all 4 calipers back to the reservoir. Pump the fluid through until no air bubbles appear. Replaces the fluid and bleeds each corner and the cylinder at the same time. Aquarium hose is good for this.
I would get very tired of working in hard-to-reach, dark, greasy spaces, which I guess is why I was never a mechanic. But, I have a lot of respect for you guys, and you sure make more an hour than I did. Best Regards
Not sure what is better: the placement of the battery between the airbox and the master cylinder .... or the 12 different connections to the battery positive post!
Been there. Just got my 1967 POS Insp in NJ. On way home, light turns yellow. No brakes. Light turns red No E brake. Horn blasting fly thru intersection & fred Flinstone it off a Y side road. After crapping my pants, figured out a way to drive home up hill so I could man downshift, coast up to stop signs. All 4 drum Wheel cyl blew, the E brake cable snapped due to NJ road salt. I'm just glad it didn't happen at Insp. Thats prob an impound. Had good sticker & learned to fix myself.😁
Worked with so many guys that wouldn't pull 3 bolts and remove the battery tray to make access better. Say "I'm not doing all that" then spend extra hour trying to get into it. Some seem to feel number of bolts removed factors into profit?🤪
Yanno it'd be nice if you didn't have to remove any of that shit in the first place....which is how it used to be when cars were built properly. Built to last, built to be serviced, repaired, kept for decades on end. Not like modern garbage that's designed to be thrown away like an empty soda can when the warranty expires.
Ford dealership technician here. I've replaced A LOT of ABS HCUs for exactly that complaint. That'd be the first master cylinder replacement I've ever seen that successfully repaired a soft or low pedal complaint on those '11 to '14 body style Edge/MKX vehicles. If you ever do get one of those for a hissing noise complaint and/or loss of brake assist, Ford will cover the brake booster on these particular models as a one time free repair.
Michael chan make sure your information is correct. They don't always cover them it is not a guarantee that is going to happen. While you are mostly correct you should probably add that it is a program from ford motor company and an extension of warranty to which is limited to 10years or 150,000 from the original warranty start date for booster. The hcu (hydraulic control unit) is not part of the repair only the booster. Go ahead ask me how I know this.
@@dylanmcdonnell5591 I never claimed that the HCU is part of the brake booster warranty extension program. Only that it has been the cause of a low brake pedal concern on the ones I've seen in my bay, particularly ones that came from another shop where the master cylinder was replaced, but the low pedal concern not repaired.
By the way, did you catch the leaking fluid? Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to automotive paint. That’s why they say not to get any on painted surfaces…
When I change a master cylinder out, I connect bleeder valve tubes on the brake caliper bleeder valve then open them up. Fill brake fluid reservoir and leave the top off and let gravity do all the work and don't waste a drop of brake fluid because it's being caught in small containers under the break calipers.
@@radiotests What's not smart about it and if you have access to a vacuum bleeder yes use it by all means but for those who don't, the old so called 60's repair works just fine to in 2021 genius.
@@radiotests Obviously dude's talking about working at home, where taking a beer break is mandatory. Vacuum could potentially pull seals out the wrong direction & really screw something up. They're made to withstand 2000+ PSI, not negatives. Still a gentle vac does work, like hand pump brake bleed 100%
the more I watch Ray work on cars the less willing I'd be to let him work on mine. Especially the way he wantonly uses impact tools, not using line wrenches, and the way he bled the master cylinder. At least he had an exchanger on hand either way. Still love watching the videos man but seeing stuff like that is why I do 90% of my own repairs. I've run into too many "professional" repairs that just screw the next guy over or ruin bolts/threads without knowing/caring. In fact I ran into that today on my own car. Over impacted bolt took half the thread out of the control arm for my sway bar links to bolt down. Had to do some thread repair so that was awful
I've had to repair a mechanics work on a few occasions . I do as much work to my car as possible . I remember onetime I had struts and a control arm replaced on a car I owned , afterwards the car would sway to either side . Took the wheel off to find that the bolts for the struts were cross threaded and loose.
Exactly. The thing is he’s on the better side of the range of mechanics. I can afford to pay someone but if they’re going to half ass it, I can half ass it just as well and not pay for labor. Plus I know what and how I did the job.
The same thing happened to me with my 1976 Ford Pinto wagon. The brakes worked great until one time the pedal went to the floor, and I had to pump the pedal to get pressure. Swapping out the brake master cylinder and bleeding the system was a pretty easy DIY -- not like the surgery you needed here.
Florida has different rules than Minnesota. Here it's more likely rusted out lines. Gotta eliminate that before we go after a master. We replumb too many cars. Love your videos, and getting a different aspect on repair. Also I totally agree with "Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good." Aftermarket shit sucks.
There are some things that are just too boring to show and anyone with half a brain knows that is just something that is done as part of the work (like checking all the lines and caliper seals for leaks/damage.)
However, as someone who has just recently started doing my own vehicle repairs, it would be nice to see some of the more tedious parts of the process. Love the videos by the way! Keep em comin :)
I honestly was sitting here wondering why he went straight for the master cylinder. I dont know jack about cars and 2 months ago did 4 wheel breaks and front rotors and calipers outer tie rod ends rear struts front struts and sway bar links for the first time ever. I even bled my breaks and did an alignment myself before taking it to be done by a computer. It would be helpful to understand what made him replace that
Love it ur thoroughly n take ur time not mucho tiempo but you're on it...n even if just replacement of tires all info is of importance... Continue w the great job chi town BEST
just a tip....Single press & hold, at a time, of the brake pedal is all that is necessary. Pumping the brakes, before holding, does nothing but move air back and forth.
Not really, but a clean shop is more efficient. BUT as long as you know exactly where your tools are and all the nuts and bolts you took off go back where they belong, it doesn't really matter in the end. Though 100% keep your floor clean of trip hazards.
@@ColtaineCrows I’m organized with putting everything back where it goes once the jobs done. During the job it’s kinda a mess parts and tools are everywhere but I also keep the bolts beside the parts they came off with so I know on reassembly
I've learned the hard way... I bench bleed ALL my Master Cylinders... and when you think they're all bleed out. I bleed em some more. Pump em way more than you think you need to. (At the bench) Here is the reason. Doing it the way you did, can work. Sometimes. Most of the time, you will cause big air bubbles to turn into small air bubbles. Now, pump the pedal, hard. Like your assistant did, and presto.. you just jammed micro-scopic air bubbles into the entire brake system. Now, you have a "kinda-crappy" slightly mushy pedal. This is the typical scenario. In time, the micro-scopic air bubbles will clump together...and become bigger air bubbles. Then, a week later...you can re-bleed the brakes and catch that one big air bubble. So, to prevent a comeback...and have a rock solid pedal... from the moment you install the Master. Just bench bleed em. I mean.... really ... really bench bleed it. It saves time. The customer will be way more happy... and you will feel much better about how solid the pedal feels. If this sounds like I am being kind of an A$$, hopefully you will take my experience with the spirit in which it is intended. The image of the lady is the wife. She is NOT the mechanic here. I am... and I work as an Engineer now, but... I have stayed in touch with the Car biz for the last 45 years, and re-upped as an ASE certified Master Mechanic, so... It's not as though I'm some dumb dumb from the bible belt, preaching at ya. It is with love in my heart, that I offer some Old guy advice. Some people have beat up on ya a little, and I have seen a lot of good suggestions. You're working under pressure, and understandably, you are not gonna take every little step...but, some precautions people suggest like green scrubby the shaft in the direction of rotation are really good suggestions. Oil or grease the sealing surface, before installation. Use a giant socket, or piece of pipe to install trans output shaft seal. etc. All good suggestions. In the end... you're doing the comeback work... Not us, so... we just get to relive our glory days thru you, and I for one will keep watching. I hope you have a great day...and try not to work too hard.
@@gailtaylor1636 Me too. Still do my own and the family. I hate the thought of giving up. I used to work on a lot of French cars in the 80s. They had mineral based brake fluid which was basically oil. I never saw any worn out seals or stuck pistons. I have never understood why all cars didn't have that system.
Good video, I have been using Brake Kleens since it came out, have 30 year + customers ! I can say without a doubt,that from previous repairs, the use of this product, has not shown any negative results on any area I used it on in past! Keep up the great work & as you know, you will have negative comments from GOD, whatever you do! LOL
I’m surprised to see you removing the master brake cylinder without first inspecting the brakes and confirming that the bleeder screws will open. You’re missing possible upsell as well as putting yourself in a predicament if/when the job becomes more complicated.
I once had to completely recondition the brakes on my '73 Chevy Nova. New master cylinder, purge air from brake lines. new brake pads and adjust all wheels. Brakes that had been extremely mushy and weak became firm and normal again. First time my wife drove it I guess she didn't believe me when I told her it was OK. She backed up to the street and gave us all whiplash when she stomped the brake pedal.
What a well designed car. The essential brake system parts placed in a most inaccessible place. Design engineers should be by law made to work on the cars they draw on paper. well done with the patience levels.
If we extend the logic: The essential brake system should be the one designed to the best durability, so out of all components it would be the least likely to need work (or in other words: access).
No brake pedal. Northern mechanic checks for rotted/ blown brake lines. Southern mechanic. Straight to the master cylinder. Man if the junk we had to work on came apart like the junk you work on I may have stayed in the trade 😂😂👍
the advent of battery power tools has been a real game changer for mechanical work....imagine what it must have been like even before pneumatic...that's where the term knuckle buster came from...
When I was growing up. We did all our own repairs. I was siting watching Daddy doing repairs. Handing him tools. I knew all the tools in his box. Before I knew my time tables. I was a mechanic back in late 80s. Required 30k in tools for 8 bucks an hour. Found another line of work. When I paid 28 bucks for a 10mm double offset wrench. To change timing belt on a ford escort. Enough was enough.
