I used to use heavy strings because the school of thought was fat strings = fat tone. However, the one thing no one has ever commented on when I'm playing is my string gauge. I use a 118 for a B on my 5 string and it sounds as good or better as any 125 or 130. I use a .90 for the E on my precision- sounds great. Why make it harder on yourself?
It’s always a give and take, personally I’m play 50s and I’m a big fan because the higher tension feels more responsive, and since I started on upright I don’t super mind the slight extra push from the left hand. Tone is kinda different, but the difference is negligible at best so it’s mainly playing style
@@glowco.717ditto 50-105 is my nirvana spot. I dislike light G strings / floppy sets and other strings that people rate as " bridge cables" that don't really bother me, coming from an upright background.
I can't stand thick strings because they lose their fresh tone quicker than thin ones, for some reason. If I use a 40-100 set and a 50-110, the 100 will last at least 2 or 3 months longer, while the 110 turns to mud after a few practice sessions
Around 40-100 works the best for me, depending on the brand and/or type of strings. Rounds: GHS Pressurewound 40-96 for standard tuning and 44-106 for droped tuning. Flats: GHS Brite flats 45-98 or La Bella SS flats 43-104. And for my acoustic bass La Bella Gold Tapes.
@@robertsuggs2510 I just love those alloy 52 strings, thats why GHS pressurewound and brite flats. But for the James Jamerson vibe I have switch to La Bella flats.
You will most likely notice the difference in a live setting. When you’re playing live with a full band and a full PA/FOH, heavier gauge strings definitely come through in the mix and push the subs. Some of the really beautiful overtones you get with lighter gauge strings can be completely lost in a mix when you’ve got drums and other instruments going at it. In my experience, heavier gauge strings really shine in a live band situation in a way lighter gauge strings often do not. Thanks for putting this video together!
I play a medium/heavy set, a 4 string set from 55 to 125. Big and fat! And it gives me that bottom end growl and grit that lighter strings don’t have, really beefy bottom end, and I crank the treble up high on my amp, to get those high notes back up to equal the volume. I’ve had many compliments. We tune to standard and we play classic to hard rock, and I’ve got an Orange 500 watt head pushing an Ampeg 8x10 cabinet. I’ll never go back to thin strings again! Di’Addario EXL 160 BT
I play 40-95 strings for the lighter tension. A few years ago I broke and dislocated the pointer finger on my fretting hand and ever since then playing heavy gauge strings just hurts. When I tune down to C standard for stoner/doom I play 45-105. As far as brand I have always played Ernie Ball Slinkys because I can find them at pretty much any music store in stock plus they always sound good. I've tried other brands but just keep going back to the Ernie Balls.
I think that Frank could play a bass with bridge cable or dental floss for strings and still make it sound great. As for me, I use medium gauge to sound good.
I use Bass Centre Elites Stadium 35-90 or 30-90 depending on the scale of my bass. With my Fenders I use 35-90 and my Spector 30-90 as the longer the scale length the more tension on the strings.
Definitely more overtones with the 40s. Personally, I've been using Ken Smith Rock Masters on my Fender Jazz for Round 30 years or so, despite the E string being a little too long for the wrap around the tuning machine pole. I just love the feel and tone.
Cobalt Flatwounds 105-45 for me, a lot of top end for flats but they lasted me 2 months without changing a single set, midrange definition is AMAZING, Low end 10/10.
Those light strings seem to be needed for all the double thumb/upstroke thumb popping….Not a fan. A big sacrifice for overall versatility of sound. I prefer 45-105/128. Yeah, the upstroke thumb stuff is a struggle….but hey, even slap bass is hardly necessary these days. I too held Vic’s bass and was surprised at the extremely light gauge. Works for his style. Can get a bit binky to my ears, although I love some of his studio recorded bass tones.
I use DR victor wooten signature 40 55 75 95 roundcore pureblues. Everyone who picks up my bass says it feels like a guitar. 😂 But i play them for one main reason: comfort.
On my Spector NS2 from 1987 I play 128 at 55 four string in regular tuning. Not all string manufacturers meet my requirements, but Rotosound and Pyramid can withstand these pulls permanently. I love the attack and the extra growl.
Wouldn't the main benefit of cutting out overtones via fat strings be that it leaves more high-end room in the mix for strings, keys, vocals an all that stuff that's supposed to fill the mid-highs?
Years ago I had a second hand Rogue fretless. I polished the synthetic fingerboard to a mirror finish and put the lightest strings I could find on it. It sounded amazing.
I’m a medium strings guy (SIT Foundations, the thinking man’s Nickel Lo-Rider) because I prefer the tone of thinner strings but have a tendency to dig in really hard in a way that favors thick strings, but couldn’t articulate the differences before watching this video. Cheers!
This video only solidified my preference for lighter strings. More clarity, more articulation and better dynamics. And dynamics is what you can not affect with tone, EQ or volume. Either you've got them where you want them to be or you don't. This side of starting using compressors, expanders and the like, which present a whole new set of problems, your hardware (and your playing) is the defining factor behind the dynamics.
Ive played the 110-55s on my first yamaha rbx 170 and found myself downtuning a lot with those, especially getting into a perfect circle (c# standard) and those babies kept it perfect. And i had a set of 95-40s on my bronco squier, and they would sing with a pick, but now ive gravitated towards the SIT silencers, 45-105 on my yamaha and 45(or 40)-95 on my bronco and ive been decently happy with them, but daddario will always be a failsafe regardless
Maybe back then it was different, but last time he mentioned anything on the subject, I'm fairly sure he was endorsing DR Strings and playing Pure Blues 40-100 - a standard light gauge. That said, they're round-core and thus feel lighter to the touch and are easier to bend than their hex-core counterparts. But very weak output on passive basses. I've long-gone abandoned 45-105 or 45-135 string sets and use 40-100/120. You just need a proper amp, compressor or whatever floats your boat - or, better still, work on your technique a bit.
I generally use 45-100. I don't really care how thick the G string is, tbh. It's going to be easy to play no matter what. I care more about the E string. Recently I got some custom strings that were 45-95. I I really enjoyed having a thinner E and A.
Comparing 45-105 la bellas and 43-100 thomatiks; i found the la bella, despite being much stiffer in character, sounded a lot cleaner (no fret noise) even with low action. There’s just too much movement in the lighter gauges and i needed a much higher action to reduce the fret rattle- which completely undermined my initial thoughts of the lighter strings being easier to play.
Great gauge comparison vid! I use SIT (Stay In Tune) strings because they are (mostly) always in tune across the fretboard. I my experience with D'Addario strings, when the octave (12th fret) is intonated the notes below are flat and notes above are sharp (!).
Personally, I prefer 50/55 to 110 gauge strings on my four string basses. I go with lighter sets on my six strings, though, because I haven't found a heavy six string set, yet. I tune down by a semitone, though.
Great videos, pretty much explains why strings gauges varies, for me Is mostly the style and the neck and electronics you’re playing, slapping popping tapping like Victors style super thin strings are just fine on a active fodera, but rocking those with a pic on a passive bass will make them rattle against the freats and break them fast, pic style demands thicker more stiff gauges, añso hex core,round core is very loosy but great for slapping, popping and acrobatic Victors style stuff, however on my personal preference some basses feels and sound and plays better with thicker hex core strings, like traditional thick and wide neck P bass with at least 45-105 for rock and pic styles and minimal 40-100 for funky and softer styles, on thin jazz bass necks max 40-100 and minimal 35-95, on 5 stringers 40-100-135 feels comfortable but for low tunnings the thickest strings are a must to not get horribly fretbuzz, cool video 👍🏾
I do like the sharpness of lighter strings, but I have telephone cables on my fretless 7-string Conklin, and I'm melting building foundations. Edit: the higher 2 strings are actually extra-light for a sitar sound. It's the lower end I went extra-heavy with.
I've been a fan of heavier guages for a long while and order individual rotosounds for my 6 string: 35, 50, 70, 90, 115 & 140. The B string is usually tuned down to A, thanks to the great Chris Squire
5 месяцев назад
I had Fodera super lights (or was it extra lights hah) on my 6 string, but now I'm trying the cheaper options. If they are okay, I'm not against saving.
I've always gone to the heavy end, but I like what I hear from the light gauge. On 5 string, I've been trying heavy bottom and a lighter top, trying to get more tension on the B string. Isn't that a big part of extra long scale and multiscale, a longer B with more tension?
I am bit surprised the sound of very thick strings in E standard sounds like useable really the only time i used some specials strings was when I did put 2 banjo strongs on my 4 string for DDDD (4 octaves) or DDDA (3 octaves) tunings, I used banjo strings bc Brain Gibson from Lightning Bolt uses CGDA (all fifths) and uses banjo strings for the highest notes, I do not know if it would differ from using guitar strings but Gibson reccomands banjo strings instead, saddly I do not remember the gauges I know band Magma uses CGDA too, band I really wonder what kinds of strings Janick Top used back in 70s france
Interesting comparison. The thinner strings sounded a little bit brighter to my ears and the thicker strings sounded warmer in comparison. I’ve been using stainless steel and nickel-plated strings that’s at .45 to .130 gauge(sometimes to .125 gauge depending on what strings I buy).
First, that BTW Sandberg is KILLER! Second, the light strings really spoke and were snappy, bright, and focused. And third, I use Fender 50s flats on my Reverend Thundergun bass. One more thing- that Red Bird bass is also incredible. I hope it is used for future demos- Thanks. Oh and love your channel, Gregor!
I used 45s for most of my life as a bassist, but ca. 2 or 3 years ago I started gravitating towards 40s. At first, I installed them on my fretless for lighter feel and more "singing" top end (yes, the difference is very slight and probably no listener will tell but it's more enjoyable for me so there) and decided I liked the tension more. I play music where bass needs to be rather bright and pronounced, and good 40s deliver (I mostly play Ken Smith stainless steel strings nowadays, except for the fretless, where I prefer GHS Boomers). The only bass where I'm planning to install a set of 45s is my Washburn by Status S-1000, tuned DGCF. 40s are too loose in that tuning for me. But it still sounds great, especially when I slap the hell out of it (that’s what I bought this one for in the first place ;-) ).
I love the feeling of light strings, but ultimately I go back to 45-105s (with some rotating gauges for the low B, right now I’m using a 125) because while light rounds require less effort to play, heavier strings have a higher ceiling before they give up. I also am primarily a double bassist, and while I don’t play much jazz anymore and have spent a lot of time cultivating a lighter right hand approach on BG I do appreciate having the ability to dig in if I need to. I haven’t tried any super heavy sets like 55-110s or La Bella Jamersons though, and interestingly for flatwounds I prefer much lighter sets like Thomastik Jazz Flats.
Well... Lighter strings 30/35/40 have more overtones for sure, but I just can't play with sets with .070 A string. Just too loose for my fingers and playing style. Lighter strings are great for hours of practice, great for slap, but when you wanna dig in with fingers or pick to get more articulation and attack... You can't play that fast as you need! And all you hear is fretbuzz (if you don't change your string height). On the other site these thick 50/55 has less overtones (which sounds like tone knob roll off or just "dead" strings) but if your neck is stable and strong you get amazing low buzz free action and playing with a pick is like a dream! Strings give you tension you need to pick playing. I'm a player who wanna versatile sound and playability. One day I would practice slap like crazy then other day I need sound for a rock pick bass or good tension under my fingers. So I would say everything from 40 to 105 for 4 string (130 at least for 5 for me! Another story lol) is a great sweet spot for me. Depends of material, brand, core and so on. Again 40 for slap is great but 45 for pick and fingers better. Same with lowest strings. Maybe 100 is the sweet spot of definition, tone and good durability and life but picking 105 is what I would choose if I would play pick exclusively.
50-70-95-145 Those are my strings. I use 4-string Jazz-style basses, all 34" scale, and my band decided to tune down to DROP G#!!!! That's G#0 for the bass.
DR Lowrider 30 - 125 on my 6string Sandberg, on my 5 String Tune 30 - 105 and for my 6string fretless Sandberg I am still experimenting but I like the DR hibeams.
Gregor,,,i use GHS alot ,, mostly Boomers at 40 - 100 but because of your review i may try a set of NYXL HEAVIES ,,,thank you for the video,,, from Arkansas USA 🎸🤠😊
Finding the right strings is a never ending road you have to take. Since I discovered DR Strings, this road is not so bumpy anymore. I use midium light gauge only (45-100). Lo Riders for my Spectors Sunbeams for my J-basses Pure Blues for my P-Basses
I used to play Light Superwounds on my first Wal. The 'piano twang' was REAL .. That bass got stolen and Superwounds eventually stopped being available. I went back to 45s full time when my Modulus Quantum 5 arrived back in '96. No truss rod so the gauge has to match the neck; they added a truss rod to later models. Still my #1 Bass though. ❤
I prefer heavy strings. My plucking hand loves the tension. Playing upright makes it more difficult for me to play light gauge on my electrics. That being said, light gauge do sound really nice.
I use different strings brands on the particular bass i have in question. They are all .045-.105 came down to tone from the fingers and pickups. I use each one for that tone quality as my ears like.
Love the overtones and playability of light strings but coming from playing a lot of double bass with a heavy setup I always end up overplaying them on the gig. I have a compressor with an led light and check in with how much I’m triggering it to try to remind myself. Settled on the Marcus Miller super brights 45-65-85-105-125 and they seem to be a sweet spot for me, have a nice bouncy resistance, but love the dadarrio Nyxl too for sounding good right out of the pack.
Dean Markley 2680s have been my favourite strings for years. 50-128 (5 strings). I like the heavier top strings which gives a more solid fundamental for high stuff, but then without the ridiculously thick E and B strings that you get with most sets. Seems to be a gauge combination not offered by any other string manufacturers, but I like it.
i use both, 40-95 on my Yamaha with double humbuckers and "normal" 45-105 on my jazz bass with EMG JAX pickups they both have a place and time and I use both
I heard a difference (thinner strings more treble, fatter strings more bass) but I'd rather be comfortable and adjust my EQ than fight with heavy strings.
I've used Rotosound RB35's since the seventies and still do to this day! When I started getting them they were 70P each. Now you lucky the find a set for under twenty quid!
Great vid as always . I use Elites stadium 35-95 on my Sandberg and Elites double ball 35-95 on my Washburn status bass . Elites Detroit flats 45-105 on a generic jazz bass No , I’m not sponsored by elites … yet .
I prefer light gauge strings myself and only really play 5-string basses. However, I do like the slightly fuller sound of the heavier strings for the G string, but I don’t like to mix and match strings, so I just use a full set of lights.
I use 45-105 D'addario XL on my Harley Benton MB-4 SB Deluxe. It came with that gauge already on it so I just replaced them. I feel Indifferent about them, it's been about 20 years since I last played a bass back when I started learning and I only learned for about a year and then switched to guitar. I first started on 9's went to 10's and then stuck with 10 light top heavy bottom. Going back to the bass last year took some adjusting. I didn't know what the string gauge was on my first bass so I just rolled with this gauge set ..I might test out the 40's though
I use Stringjoy's 55/110s on my Jaguar P/J bass, and the thump is unreal! I especially like how they sound with the bridge pickup, since the heavier gauge makes it sound bright without being thin.
I am using the Daddario Pro Steels 45 to 130. They are super bright and have not too mutch or too less tension. The right tool for distrted metal bass. 🤘
I find the opposite to be true, especially when tuning lower. I find thinner strings tend to give a boomier tone, less overtones and more fundamental, while thicker strings tend to sound brighter with more overtones. I have a thunderbird that used to be tuned down in C# with 50-110 strings on it, and it sounded great. I put a new set of 45-105 strings on it and tuned it up to D and suddenly it sounded muddy. Bringing it up to Eb with the same strings has brightened the tone again. Lower tensions=thicker tone, its why short scales sound so boomy and thick. Thats been my experience anyway