THINKBEE WIRELESS LIGHT SWITCH INSTALLATION - Very DIY friendly!!!!!! 

Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.

So glad I could help. Thank you for watching!

You bet. Thanks so much for watching.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching !

Glad I could help. Thanks so much for watching.

I'm glad that you showed the black(hot) wire is connected to the red, the blue is connected to the white(neutral), and the white from the light connect to the blue, the brown connected to the black. Thank you.

In certain situations these can definitely come in handy. Thank you for watching 👍

Thanks for watching. Glad it helped. 👍

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. Glad i could help. 👍

Glad I could help. Thank you for watching!

Thanks. Glad I could help. We found light on Amazon. Fairly reasonable too. Here’s the link to it. amzn.to/3yu4ray

Thank you for watching 👍

I believe this company sells multiple switch receivers as a kit. That being said I’m not certain if you can just buy another switch and link it to receiver. I would think it would work but don’t want to steer you wrong.

I believe this one would work for what you’re wanting. amzn.to/3PI65AK

You can add it to any light. If there is an existing switch it will override the remote switch function. Existing light switch will need to remain on for remote to work. 👍

I’m not sure I understand your situation exactly. You’ll need access to the wiring between source and light to install this remote it interrupt it. Not sure what you have.

Thanks so much. They do make one like that. This one here will work for what you are trying to achieve. 👇👇👇 amzn.to/3Kc5jcO

Depending on situation you may only need one relay. If the sconces are powered by the same source you can place the relay at the beginning of the series. This would operate both with the remote. Hope that helps. 👍

The mounting plate had only one hole I believe.

You’ll need to connect it the source that supplies the 3 lights. Depending on how your house was wired that source could be in one of the junction boxes behind one of the lights or in the box the existing switch is in. The existing light switch won’t be affected other than it will override the remote switch. Most likely if the existing switch is off, remote will not turn light on. But if existing switch is left on, remote can be used to turn light on and off. Hope this helps and good luck with your project 👍

@@MDCHOMES thanks for taking the time to respond and for your help and advice 😊

This switch will work as a break between any power source. If you have a constant power source going to pot light you’d be able to splice and run a line to chandelier. Many times pot lights are on a series, especially if there is a group of them. If the power source going to pot light you intend to use is on a series controlled already by a switch and doesn’t have constant power in the junction box your chandelier will go off every time you turn pot lights off regardless if you have this additional switch. Just need to check to see if you have a constant power source at that location. 👍

Kinda depends on your wiring situation. If the power is run to the switch or to the light. Either way you’ll need to alter it slightly so you have constant power going to light.

This particular switch would only pair with this one receiver. You’d probably need to find one specifically for your application. I know this brand makes different set ups ( two switches for one light, one switch for multiple receivers etc).

Hmmm. I’m not for sure it would come back on with the main switch you currently have. That one will definitely turn it off but I can’t say for certain if the remote switch will default to its last position or if it always defaults to off once power is removed from it with main switch. Sorry not much help there bc didn’t have that option with ours to test. I’d love to know the answer though if you decide to try and see.

I believe they sell a unit with two switches. That would be what you need. I believe it will still work behind plasterboard as long as distance isn’t too far away. Hope that helps.

I don’t believe so. I killed the power to this home multiple times after switch was installed and it never had to be reprogrammed. Hope that helps👍

Yes sir that’s correct. Sorry if I glazed over that part too quickly. Thanks for taking the time to diagram it out. I’m sure it’ll help others who also had questions about it. Thanks for your help and for watching.

@@MDCHOMES My pleasure. It's easy to forget how little the average weekend warrior (like me) knows ;-) Thank you for your excellent videos!

@@MDCHOMESwhat if the 4 wires coming out of my control switch are not labeled? Mine goes blue, red, black, black. How do I know which are in/out? Ordered from Amazon and it doesn’t come with instructions. 😢

Does it have a side that’s labeled in and one labeled out?

It took a little effort with mine as well. I used a very fine blade flat head screwdriver in the slots which released the clips as I pried it apart. It did feel a little sketchy putting that much pressure pulling it apart and I sort of had to hold one side open as I got the other side. Eventually it opened up though. I guess the only trick I know is just using the smallest flat head in the slots that you can to press against those clips. Good luck 👍

Here is a link to a version with 3 switches if that helps. amzn.to/3BmRXVQ

I killed power to house several times while working there and never had to pair it again. 👍

I believe pairing will prevent.

I believe it will work as a second switch but you will need to leave the main switch on all the time for it to work. If the main switch to the room is off the wireless won’t work.

You need two Thinkbee switches, you can pair more than one switch to the controller. Use one to replace the existing switch and the other goes wherever you want. But as Jason said, if you leave the old switch in the circuit you have to leave it on.

This switch doesn’t have the functionality you are needing. I believe a universal fan remote control would suit your needs better. Hope that helps.

In my situation there was no existing wall switch. If you are wanting to add this to a light that already has a switch it will work like a remote. If existing light switch is on this one will turn on and off but if existing switch is off this one won’t function. Hope that helps 👍

They make a kit for that situation. The one I used was one receiver for one switch but they make some that come with multiple receivers for multiple lights.

@@MDCHOMES thank you for the quick reply

The main switch will still kill the power to the light. The remote will also not work with main switch off. Hope that helps.

Hmm. Not sure on the memory part. I believe it will stay paired though. I’m almost certain I turned off the main for the house working on other electrical after switch was installed and it was still paired when we sold the house. I believe the remoter does have a small watch battery in it. Hope that helps. 👍

@@MDCHOMES I figured out that what you installed is not the kinetic energy type of switch. That's what I bought so I don't use a battery, the switch should work forever essentially. I suspect, since yours worked after losing power, that it does store the ID of the switch in the receiver, so I expect the kinetic type will also stay paired.

Good deal. Thanks for coming back to let me know. This is good info to have for everyone looking into purchasing these switches. Thanks Paul. 👍

We have a kinetic switch on outside pot lights. There is a main switch which turn off the lights by the front door. I had considered putting in a timer but when opening the switch to change it out it only had a white and black and ground so no true neutral. So that says it's just a switch loop. The circuit breaker that it's on is marked " attic relay". What happened next is the problem. Once that switch loop is turned off the relay loses it's pairing. I should mention we bought the house and were just testing what switches did what. It would have been nice that the orevious owners had yold us not to turn that switch off. Anyways now I have to find this relay. I looked in that attic but couldn't see anything without crawling in there. What I do know is that breaker also kills a ceiling light close to the attic entrance. I'm wondering if that switch loop could be going to that light attached to the relay in that ceiling box? To me this is dumb given that this could happen with any power outage so access should be easy to reset, pair. We have 2 kenectic switches thst work it.

@@dougross6880 Take the neutral feed from the ground in the switch box, the kinetic device will stay powered on regardless of the switch position. Better yet, put the controller in the light box, that has both neutral and hot and ground, it's where the controller is intended to be put. The downside is that the kinetic switch overrides the wall switch since they are unaware of each other's state. And that's the real issue with using a kinetic switch where there is also a wall switch. If you change the wall switch to a kinetic switch, with the controller in the light box, they will work together perfectly. The switch I used kept the pairing even if it lost power, I tested it for that. But since your unit won't do that I'd put it in the light box (if you can make it fit), and use two kinetic switches.

I’m sorry. I’m not sure I understand the question. You will need a constant hot for this switch to work. The remote switch works by interrupting the constant just like a traditional light switch would.

There is a battery in the remote but not the transmitter

This was a flip house we were selling so wasn’t really applicable here. I would definitely charge less for this application for a customer bc far less time is involved. Once you know the steps these can be installed in less than an hour.

I haven’t tried it but I believe it will.

I’ve gotten that question before. I’m not 100% but I’m almost certain I turned the power off multiple times at this home working on other things and switch stayed paired. Sorry I don’t have a definite answer but I’m pretty sure.

It’s battery operated so it won’t electrocute you. I sold this house shorty after installing so I can’t really say how long battery will last.

This is the first one I’ve done so not sure on long term. We installed it in an investment property that we sold a couple months later. I can say that in those 2 months it worked without any issue.

@@MDCHOMES yes I’m looking to put them in an investment property as well. I’m going to put fans with lights in the bedrooms so in case the switches fail they will still be able to get light somehow

I’m not sure if I’m following exactly what your situation is but if you have a ground running back to breaker panel you can use that.

​@@MDCHOMES Been using it for weeks now..easy install. Thanks. Just noticed that the metal edges of my thin LED recessed light gets really warm. Thinkbee switch should not cause that,right?..I am leaning towards the light itself as the culprit..Any ideas?..appreciate your time.

🤔 I wouldn’t think the switch would give off any noticeable warmth. I’m like you…I’d assume it’s just the light. Thanks so much for watching and for the update on your install. 👍

@@MDCHOMES Thanks...awesome prompt reply...I just emailed the company..hope to get a reply soon...oops! forgot to subscribe...doing it now.

Awesome. Thank you. 😊

I’m not for certain but I believe you can buy this configuration that has two receivers paired to a switch.

Thanks for replying

Good question. It did pass our local inspection no problem. Not sure if it is ul listed. Pretty sure these are manufactured in China so there is a high probability that they aren’t. They do have a lot of 5 star ratings on Amazon though and a few house fires would probably bring that rating down pretty quick. Lol. Definitely something to consider when buying cheaper items like this that are manufactured in less regulated countries. Thanks for bringing it to attention though because it’s definitely something everyone should consider. 👍

Thanks for that. I appreciate it👍

Still there. No fire.

The button should be on the receiver that goes above light. You press and hold it to pair to remote. Once light on receiver is blinking you click on remote to pair them. Let me know if that helps👍

Lol. Yeah I did open them but didn’t get that part on film. The connectors that were provided I believe were good for up to a 14 gauge wire and we had 12 gauge at this location. Possibly could have forced it but just chose to go with wire nuts on this one bc they also seemed to take up less room in junction box. We do use those connectors in other situations though. Thanks for watching and for the good info. 👍

There’s no way they wouldn’t fit they hold up to 4mm 👍🏻

@@MDCHOMESyes sure. It seems like you had no clue how those connectors work.

Those connectors are Wago copies. They will easily do the cable size. Just gotta flick up the orange tab and slide it on in there and lock the orange tab down. In the end though if you’re used to wire nuts then that’s what you’re used to.

In this application there was no existing switch. If you already have a switch it will override this one. Meaning if the old switch is on, remote switch will work. But if old switch is off it will kill remote switch

The remote does come with a small watch battery. This switch is solely and on/off switch so no dimming. There might be a version with a dimmer but this one did not include that option.

@@MDCHOMES how long can this work with this small battery?

Hmm. Not certain. These batteries tend to have a pretty good life expectancy but I guess it would depend on usage.

Not from what I’ve seen.

@@MDCHOMES thanks.

Hmmm. Not certain if it would be considered a Bluetooth connection. It’s more like how a universal remote pairs with your television. No WiFi needed though. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

You have 2 constant hot wires in same junction box?

This went in a house we sold so not certain on that. Didn’t get an opportunity for long term test. Possibly another viewer who’s had one for a while can comment to help us out on long term reliability 👍

Not with this particular switch. There are several companies that make light bulbs that can be controlled through an app on your phone. Here’s a link for an example of one of those. amzn.to/489xUcZ Hope that helps 👍

Thanks for the quick response

Yeah. That’s the most frequent comment I get on this video. We do use these connectors all the time on other projects but in this instance the 12 romex would not go in connector. I didn’t get a focused shot of it with the connector lifted but had one with it closed. Not sure if these were just some cheap Chinese ones that were defective but even with the tab lifted they wouldn’t go in. I thought maybe other countries used a smaller gauge wire that these were intended for. Long story short I did try with the tabs up but just didn’t get it on camera. 👍

@@MDCHOMES oh okay 👍

The light fixture or what’s in ceiling junction box? Just clarifying.

From the new light. Black, white and blue coming from the ceiling

Did this fixture have two switches that operated it previously?

I'm not sure but I doubt it. I mean this light is brand new from menards.

I’m referring to what’s in ceiling. You might need to use a volt meter to determine the correct wiring here. It sounds like this was wired for a 3 way switch possibly. As far as the 2 black wires coming from light…does the instructions indicate one to use as a hot lead and one as a neutral?

After the cover was removed the first time it seemed to come off easier for me. I was able to pop it off in position since the back plate was held tight in a stud. Good call though. For people considering mounting their switch that is definitely something to keep in mind.

@@MDCHOMES o ok cool..thanks

Hold it right there! Who told you about my non alcoholic beer?

Yes sir.

Awesome. Glad it worked for you and thanks for giving some feedback on range. I bet other viewers might have that same concern and now have an answer. 👍

Link is in the description 👍