There is a major advantage to internally geared hub systems that is always over looked when they are being compared to conventional cassette derailleur setups. Using an internally geared hub results in a much stronger wheel. If you imagine looking at a bicycle from the rear you will notice that on a conventional cassette style bike the relationship between the left and right spokes and the hub results in an acute triangle. Load is unevenly distributed between the left a right spokes. The spokes on the cassette side of the wheel bear much more of the load than the spokes on the left. If you imagine an internally geared hub setup viewed from the same perspective, you will notice that the relationship between the left an right spokes and the hub forms an isosceles triangle with the load being evenly shared across the left and right spokes. This greatly increases the strength of the wheel in the vertical plane. It also handles torque better than a conventional setup, a consideration when using disc brakes. Internally geared hubs also feature wider flanges ( especially enviolo) and this increases the lateral strength of the wheel as well as improved handling of torque. I hope I have explained all of that without creating confusion. No, Internally geared hubs aren't the best option for all applications but if you tend to carry heavy loads over rough roads, added wheel strength is a real bonus that never gets a mention.
@@JohnnyNerdOut , Hopefully it's useful information to you. I only figured it out from replacing broken spokes on old 12 speed racers. They always break on the cassette side of the hub. It doesn't seem to be a problem at all on wheels with uniform spoke length.
I had a 5 speed Sturmey on a Brompton. It had a good range etc but was very finicky to adjust so popping gears were all too common. Today I would use a Shimano Alfine. Much better than Nexus.
I'm a 25 year experienced bike mechanic with a lot of IHG background. Something that doesn't always get said about IGH and modern bikes is vertical dropouts are sometimes a bad combination with an IGH because of the need for a slot for the torque washers, especially older gearhubs. MTB's from the mid 1980's or a custom built frame with horizontal rear dropouts work best and you can tension the chain without an idler jockey pulley. Choices for IGH's used to be better in the 1980's through 1990's as you still had SRAM/Fictel Sachs making their IGH with the clickbox shifters and Sturmey was making their double split sungear 5 and 7 speeds. Shimano Nexus and their high end Alfine IGH are OK, the older Nexus 7's were really weak and somewhat inefficient in certain gears. You can't go wrong with the Rholhoff IGH and it would be interesting to see if Pinion someday makes a mid-drive adapter for their BB/gearbox.
Hi, TaUnc Fester, have you ever come across or worked with the NuVinci N171B IGH / CVT Hub - Manual Shifting Version, I have an Electra Vince with the nexus 3 speed and the bike is fitted with a BBS02 750w powered by a 52V battery. I will be building a new wider wheel as the wheel I have now is much narrower than the original front wheel and the wrong colour. The current set-up runs a 44T chain ring and 18T cog, I live in a hilly area and may have to sacrifice some speed for a bit more torque to help with steep standing starts. It seems I have more choices than I can poke a stick at, do I stay with the 3speed and change the cog or chainring or maybe both, or do I go with a 5,7, or 8speed IGH, and then this NuVinc that seems pretty awesome and I have found a supplier that carries plenty of replacement parts for them. What are your thoughts, please? Thank you in advance.
@@slavojalois1639 Hi Slavonic yeah I,ve been out of the repair game since 1998, the last gearhub I’ve owned was a close-out from UBP on the FS Pentasport. Missed the Alfine and NuVinchis, I can say that I’m friends with a certain PNW Tandem builder who makes Gravel bikes and I got to play with the Pinion 12 speed. That was impressive just for the spread of nicely spaced gears.
@@slavojalois1639 yeah if you trust the availability of Shimano or Sunrace/Sturmey gearhubs It’s always better to have more ratios. A bigger spread of ratios helps if you live in really hilly country I’d prefer bigger spread to more gears, but then I, not young any more either.
You brought up final gear Ratio. I'm running a Shimano Inter-5E with a Chainring(40)/Sprocket(27) ratio of 1.48:1(Shimano Recommends 1.3 - 1.5:1 on the Inter-5E). 260%-ish ends up being my final in 5th gear. The 5E differs from the regular Inter-5 in the internal gear ratios. They moved 1st gear(low) from 0.75 to a 1:1 ratio and 5th(high) from 1.55 to 2.63:1 ratio. Makes a huge difference for E-Bikes running 750-1000w. My Bafang BBSHD w/14S4P 52v batt pack works flawless with it on my little street warrior. Can consistently hit up to 35mph(on 29" Tires) if I want with the power setting cranked to full. The funnest part about converting to an IGH was building my own rear wheel. My 1st time lacing spokes(36H Hub). Had my local Bike shop true it up for me however, I don't have tools for truing, just building. 😁
I’m sold on internally geared hubs. I plan to purchase the Kindernay as soon as I have the $. They are SALTY though. Well worth it in my eyes. The Kindernay is 543%, has a hydraulic shifter. You can shift under power on a ebike. There is zero maintenance and you never have to adjust it. You install it and forget about it. It’s pretty badass, just cost as much as a ebike LOL. I am going to build a fat tire full suspension mid drive and that’s the hub I’ll be putting on it. It’s rated up to 160nm and they even state that it’s perfect for a ebike.
I have a Rohloff belt drive. I am going to motorize it with a front hub motor. I am looking at the Grin all axle motor or the Heinzmann RN 111 cargo bike motor. Both of these motors have the wiring coming out to the side next to the axle not coming through the center of the axle. If you are running a mid drive there are shift sensors available so you don't have to beat up your drivetrain. My Rohloff has 526% range. The Pinion 12 speed has 600% range and the Pinion 18 speed has 636% range. Both the Rohloff and the Pinion need no gear adjustments. IGH hubs have more power loss through the drivetrain than a perfectly clean derailleur system. The Rohloff has the least power loss of any internal geared system. Belts can add more friction but this depends on how tight the belt is. The advantage of not having to adjust and clean a drivetrain out way the miniscule power losses people complain about.
The one thing thats kinda sad is that the All axle motor will make riding the bike without power pretty unpleasant as there is no clutch. your geartrain is capable of riding the world 40K km while your battery might only last 2 hours with that motor.
I have the Sturmey Archer SX-RK3 on one of my Fat bikes with the BBSHD and I love it . Also I have learned is that the chain tensioner should PUSH UP not down because the more teeth the chain hugs on the rear gear the better the result and smoother more efficient the drive train is . I have also learned this to reverse the Chain tensioner to push up also will stop the chain from jumping a tooth or 2 under heavy load of the motor if you happened to be using the throttle. I have bought the or almost the best tensioners I could find but NONE of them are REVERSIBLE . I did find that the CHEAPER CLONE version of the same tensioner made buy others is reversible and they are of the same quality as the more EXPENSIVE ones. This goes to show you learn new things every day and the more EXPENSIVE parts are NOT always a better choice. So look around and you will be surprised at what's out there . Your right about the gear ratio but I find 3 gears are enough for me anyways. I am thinking about converting the other 2 bikes I have one with a BBSHD and Ultra G510 to Sturmey Archer SX-RK3 hub as well because as you know they are VERY TOUGH . The hardest part about all of this is the length of spokes needed for each wheel because i have used many different spoke calculators and they give me different lengths for the same wheel . I just have to find someone that has the SX-RK3 in stock so I can build my wheels. UPDATE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I have completely Converted all 3 of my Fatbike to the Sturmey Archer SX-RK3 and running a 38 narrow wide chainring and a 24 rear . All 3 have the same HUBS, Gears, shifters, 48V battery 2 have BBSHD, 1 has Ultra G510/M620 which is the same as a BBSHD but with a torque sensor. Top speed is 31mph without rider 28 mph with rider of 250lbs
If you've converted a bike from a Cassette/Derailleur setup with drop outs, you can also keep the Derailleur on the bike sans the shift cable as a chain tensioner for IGH's. It'll do the same job as it did on a cassette keeping the chain tight. Looks odd but it works.
@@SternLX Yes it does work and you have to do it that way if its a FULL SUSPENSION bike because as the suspension compresses and rebounds you have chain stretch so the derailleur is a good choice as a chain tensioner. That's the way I did it when I converted a Biketrix fat bike to a SA IGH HUB . But the problem was that the Biketrix bike did NOT have a replaceable derailleur hanger it was MOLDED as part of the frame ( DUMB DESIGN ). On the other hand when you have Hardtail the derailleur is a BAD Idea because it pushes DOWN and its much less teeth engaging with the chain and in many cases as with mine the chain would jump on the rear gear under load of pedaling or with the throttle . So I took a cheap Chinese tensioner and reversed the spring to push up. Problem solved.
I only had to try typing into the search engine three times before the A.I. understood just exactly what I wanted, amazing ! Love the the IHG idea, great video JNO👍 I think this is what I'l do, thank so much !
Love my 7sp igh Dutch bike and my wife's 3sp is simple for her. That said, they are very heavy, no one makes one with quality bearings and there is a great deal more internal friction. They really need to be over hauled annually and that is a messy job. Deraileurs work. They are light and efficient. Same bike, same kit, the bike with the deraileur will always give you more range. I don't run anything illegal so I have never broken a chain. None of my customers have ever broken a chain.
Huh? Overhauled annually? Maybe if you are abusing them. 7 years on my Alfine 11 with Power Assist & thousands of kms including mild off road & heavy touring loads. All I ever do is change the oil once a year & service my chain every 6 months. Same hub, same chain & has never skipped a beat.
This may not be a popular answer, but using a direct drive front hub motor solves all of the stress issues for an internal hub human drive back wheel. I have a three speed that run great with a 500 Watt front direct drive wheel in flat Indiana. Very quite, easy to shift from standstill, good rain performance....
Thank you so much for the video. I think you were very objective about the whole issue. I would love to see something like that with the gates belt Drive. Thanks again
I am Shimano IGH fanboy. Nowadays they manufacture a 5 speed beefed up to deal with the increased torque delivered by midmotors. They even offer an electronic shifting option!
thats awesome!!! I replaced a 20 year old igh with a completely new gear train for less than 80 dollars. "Shimano nexus 4 speed" on my front wheel hub drive diy ebike.
@@jakelondon sorry no, my bike with a 7speed Nexus hub was recently stolen. Have since managed to replace it with another bike and similar hub, happy with it so far. Hope to fit a mid drive some time in the future
Thanks for that! I just blew the derailleur and the chain today using de CYC X1 Stealth. Was able to modify it to a single gear using the 13 gear 9th speed to have it clear and tight. So if I'm gonna spend a few bucks might as well get en internal system. Maintenance will be easy like you said. And thanks for your professionalism.
I haven't seen any bikes with Sturmey Archer IGH for 25 years! Enviolo seems to be the new kid on the block - have you tried it? One of the best things about hub gears is the ability to use a belt instead of chain - clean, strong and long-lived.
often the more speeds the less reliable or usable the gears. for example the Shimano one has some gears that have very very low efficiency. gear 6 on the Shimano 8 speed hub is the most efficient. All others have various problems with pretty significant power loss.
I am doing a lot of a research, I want IGH on my Sondors LX mid-drive, the best gear ratio HUB can give you are the rohloff 526%, nuvinci ;N380 380%,n360 360%, N171 350%, the sturmey archer is good for fat bike stronger and the ratio is 243%. Is guy for cargo urban in Canada that he install the SA 5 speed with a custom 20" fat tire
often you can find raplacement axles with a new gear train that can be bought very low cost. I reinstalled a completely new gear train in my shimano nexus 4 speed. The reason: second gear was no longer working and the bearings were on their way out. Even for a gear hub that was only produced for such a short amount of time I was able to find completely new parts for under 80 dollars. Its so smooth and silent clean and efficient.
had a sturmey archer it was horrible it would bind up making it almost impossible to shift, it ended up breaking after only 400 km, i swapped it for a shimano nexus inter 3 the difference was night an day so much smoother and easier to adjust/tune an service, it's now done nearly 15,000 km after a big ride or every few shorter trips i squrt a little automotive gear oil in the shift skewer hole about every 1000km i strip the hub to clean an regrease it with automotive wheel bearing grease, it happily handles the 1800w cyclone motor, i also have the front gears so the gear cogs are 14t free wheel off the motor to 53t running 415 MC chain -- 53t an 36t to rear 22t running 510 1/8 bmx chain, yes you can run bmx 1/8 chain though the derailleurs (rear mtb derailleur is locked in place with the high low screws) this setup has worked very well for me and it does all i want an more..........
Thanks for the video. There are lots of good insights in there. I was hoping, however, that you would talk about IGHs used with a belt drive. Seems like an interesting idea to me but I don't if it is just hype or actually a good idea. A mid drive ebike with a belt and an IGH seems like a sweet idea. Anything I can do to minimize ongoing maintenance is a win in my book. Do have any experience/opinions about belt drive bikes and do they lend themselves to ebike conversion?
Belts w/ a IGH are the best in theory, but very expensive and a pain to initially setup. so tradeoffs everywhere. I'll make a video on that too someday though
Also you know how you usually have to open a chain to install it on a bike? You can't open a belt so either the frame has to have a so called "frame lock", (which is basically an opening in the rear triangle for the belt to go through), or such lock has to be installed. (Some cruiser and chopper frames have such rear triangles that allow for installing a chain or a belt without the need of a frame lock.)
@@JohnnyNerdOut Yea, BUT ... You might want a frame made to take a belt ... as in designed for the belt ... designed as one bike. Think old Norton, make the trailing arm a bolt on/off at the crank apex, sprung or hardtail.
I think speed is the answer. First thing, if you go to a smaller rear wheel like a 20" BMX style, it has to spin faster to reach the same speed and power is the product of torque and speed so you can reduce torque and make your drive train last longer. Second thing, if you can't peddle faster than 28 mph, get one of the two speed planetary gear cranks. My plan is three speed Strumey Archer IGH, 20" 36 spoke rear wheel, two speed crank (I forget the name) and a Cyclone mid-drive. By my calculations, I should be able to pedal it to near 40 mph and still have gears low enough to pull a loaded down cargo bike up a pretty steep hill. A 26" front wheel with a suspension fork, a suspension seat post, some of the best hydraulic disk brakes i can find and a hydraulic damped headset should round it out, deal with potholes pretty well, stop really well and prevent death wobble if it's a bit too fast.
My dream build would consist of a front motor, preferably a QS motor, a schlump speed drive in the bottom bracket with a gates belt driving an internally geared hub. Peddlin at speeds in excess of 60+ mph would be epic!
@@paulschmidtke425 Motorcycles require yearly tags, insurance and registration.... myself, i like speeding up hills as fast as i go down. A Phaserunner controller allows 72-74 volts and limits the phase current which keeps the motor cooler and the parameters can be customized... btw... I already have a Triumph so i am covered already... stay verticle and always wear your helmet... Safety first!
I converted my Felt cruiser a few years ago, installed a Bafang BBS01 in it. So if you are into IGH and cruisers a bit more info. If you want to keep your coaster brake you can use a TSDZ2 motor which is coaster brake compatible. A Bafang as far as I know still doesn't have a coaster brake version (were planning to I think) , the chainring itself has a freewheel so you are left with V-brakes, rollerbrrake or a disk brake as an option. I chose a roller brake for the rear and a disk for the front. Also some cruiisers like Felt have thick tubing so in order to install a midmotor you need eccentric adapters - available at Luna Cycles for 20-30$ for the set (left and riht side).
I've installed bafang on coaster bikes. Just need to adjust the programming to shut off the motor as soon as it stops sensing pedal movement. But you need a front brake.
@@JohnnyNerdOut Yes, but could you still use the coaster brake? My BBS01 has a freewheel so when you backpedal the cranks rotate, but the chain ring doesn't, so the chain doesn't move backwards and the coaster brake cannot be actuated.
I’ve got the 3 speed. For me, the downside would be fixing a flat. Until you’ve plenty of practice, getting the wheel on and off is a nightmare. So I’ve got a bottle of Slime and fat Co2 cartridges, yes two.
These hubs have a few flaws. They cant be oiled and are often greased. They are not oil tight and might get rusty. Some gears have very low efficiency while others offer close to 100% efficiency. most normal bike gear hubs degrade in performance when you put many watts through them. Shifting under load will probably destroy most older bike gear hubs with a mid motor system. i'd advice a shift sensor for sure.
Internal hubs have more drag than rear shifters and external gears. The straight chain line will not compensate for that, especially as your frame is quite long and the actual chain angle isn't that steep. But it is certainly way more rugget and less maintenance, especially in dusty and weathery conditions. I'm thinking about copying that idea soon enough, but with European regulations i.e. less power and therefore I'm thinking 8speed. Any recommendations? What would you do on a external speed of frame to adapt it to igh?
Great topic Johnny, a lot of comments, clearly something a lot of people are interested in. Apologies if someone else mentioned this. Would a belt drive be a better application for strength and maintenance ? I’m sure they are a beast to install, but great as an owner, albeit expensive. And there seems to be an industry shift toward belt drives. Might make for a great video. I see a ton of mid drives with belt systems (usually Gates) and internally geared hubs, but for some reason they almost never have throttles. I’ve yet to see one with a throttle. Is there a legitimate reason for that or is it simply that the majority of them are European builds? Great videos keep em coming!
You can't add a belt drive to just any frame, there has to be a removable dropout on the bike to install a continuous belt. I have heard there are split belts now, but not sure if they are heavy duty enough for e bike conversions.
@JohnnyNerdOut There’s one beef that should be addressed: You basically have to learn how to make bicycle wheels. You can’t just get an IGH pre-installed on a particular sized wheel like a 26 inch or 700C.
@@JohnnyNerdOut have you ever tried the italian nuvinci system? It uses metal balls to increase or decrease your gear without steps! I rode a speed pedelec with a mid drive and bosch motor it was pretty epic.
Most people don’t deal with as many hills in the city than you think. Where I grew up, we had a major hill that you would struggle on even with some modern gearing. But, you go one street over and the hill was broken up into 3 plateaus and you could make it pretty easily. Just know alternative routes. There was a bike path that took you to the same area and avoided the hill altogether. I live on the bottom of a hill and go one street over and the hill levels out and is a lot more gradual. People have become far too reliant on the straightest route possible to get somewhere. P.S. I don’t own a car and bus/bike everywhere I go. I’m 54 before you have too much to say.
@David Cote Wow, thanks. I never could have figured this out from the topography of the four cities, six towns, and two rural areas I have lived in that there is variation in ground slope. Gee, you are so helpful.
Add internal gearing to an Ebike with a bottom bracket motor and watch it self destruct in a year. I've had Shimano Nexus 8 speeds fail in just few thousand miles on a conventional city non/ebike. All ebikes function like toys for a few thousand miles then self-destruct. I ride 1000 miles a month on a non-Ebike, the weakness of a conventional bike has not been addressed, now add 2x and 3x the power the bike was designed for and they fail 2x and 3x faster. I want an Ebike, but now the ones being designed today, they are garbage and will not last one year with the mileage I ride.
@@ammerudgrenda Chains and cassettes are high wear items and need replaced every 3000 miles. A custom high quality wheel may last only 3000 miles on the rear and 9000 on the front. Narrow tires are also very high wear, may on get 1000 miles from a back tire. Ebikes need to use the same rear wheel a small cc street bike uses like the Honda Super Cub 125cc, then use a hub motor with it, mid drives over 200 watts are far to powerful for a bicycle drivetrain.
@@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene I agree about the chains, if you look at even the lowest power motorcycles they have far sturdier chains and sprockets than bicycles, and you still have to change them due to wear
@@utubeape Yes, mid-drive adds all that stress to the drive-train that I can only get 3000 miles out of on my pedal bike. The rear wheel is the biggest problem on e-bikes, they need much stronger wheels for mid or hub drives. For those of us breaking chains on our bikes, an Ebike is surely going to break chains or stretch them in just 1000 miles. For me that would mean a chain replacement every month....Ebikes have a long way to go to be more than a toy.
I'm using 3mm chainring and rear cog with kmc BMX ebike chain. I never worry about it breaking but I've been told with the 5k watt system I'm using I will destroy an internal gear hub. So not sure I really want to take the chance.
@@russellwilson5246 I'm going to use that hub for my current fat bike build. I'm gonna use a shift sensor and baby it. Hopefully I can get some more life out of it than you did. If it fails quick I might spring for a rohloff.
A Sturmey Archer X-RD8 IGH paired with my Bafang BBSHD(with 3k watt Ludicrous controller) hits 50mph on flat surface, and no problems on steep hills. Granted, this is a street cruiser.
Where is it that you ply your trade Johnny? I'm in Vancouver BC Canada and am looking for a no bs e-bike mechanic and aficionado to convert a bike that I already own to an e-bike. If you yourself are not in Vancouver,do you have list of places that you can recommend? I just started watching your channel and so far I really like what I'm seeing and hearing. Keep up the great job.
ME Likey too, I have been collecting them for some time. 3,5, 2X 7’s / I still need to get in contact with U abt these +++ / I have been binging on JNO vids to catch up .... let’s chat !, Harley aka (eMoped)
Although S/A lists this hub for heavy duty use, they do not recommend any of their hubs for use with a Power Assist. There have been some weak hubs from S/A & some are bulletproof such as the SX-RK3 which is a favourite among fat bike riders as it will handle more than 5000 watts output. The 5 speed model that you chose for this bike is not intended to provide a wide gear spread especially on your large diameter wheels which is why you are having trouble with low end torque. Simply a matter of the wrong product choice.
Glad to hear somebody vouch for the reliability of the SX-RK3. I've got one on my Surly Wednesday and I'm hoping to get a lot of years out of it with a BBSHD.
What if you took an 8 speed cassette and took out every other gear and used 4 total to keep the chain bend low would that even be possible for the derailleur to move up and down the gears?
Did you have to go back to standard cassette? I like my 3 speed IGH by Sturmey Archer, but I am a little worried about how much torque it can take from a BBSHD.
So i'm thinking of running either an 8 or 11 speed hub for my fat bike, and pairing it up with a possible 750w or 1000w motor. I also want to go with wireless shifting. What are your thoughts on this??
What about rear brakes? Can you back pedal with the motor for braking? Looking at (IGH) bikes for sale most do not have a rear caliper brake. Personally I never shift gears and was looking for a single speed for my next build. Probably with 24" wheels. It would be nice to see these bikes he builds closer than 20 ft. away.
I was thinking of this for a hunting ebike, I travel round trip is 60miles. I have a lot of steep hills and also sandy hills. What could you do for me?
My chainring sticks out to far from my frame, resulting in chain line issues that prevent me from going into the largest gear. Will a gear hub resolve this issue? Are these hubs wider? Or am I going to have the same issue of getting the chain straight?
The second time derailleur broke (went straight into the wheel). Well, very noob, but never shy of it. Seriously thinking about replacing a IHG. But I liked your bike, which one is that?
Hello. I am just thinking of upgrading to IGH Shimano Alfine 8. Bought a lekkie 28t which I love, but the chain line is now horrible in the last 3 gears and it's breaking the chain. Does Alfine have enough offset for a good chainline with lekkie 28T? maybe possible to put spacers on alfine?
Which direction is the offset? Is it towards the smaller gears or bigger? I added spacers to my bbs02 , behind the lekkie chainring. I brought the chainline to almost directly over the smallest cog line. Since the other cogs are much larger I don't get any more slippage. I've never broke a chain yet. YOU DON'T WANT the chainline in the middle like a standard bike. You want it more towards the smaller cog on ebikes with mid-drives.
@@JohnnyNerdOut Why walk when I can ride away? Now I can even take my dog again. Thanks for the info on the pet trailer. It was already atop my list but your recommendation definitely helped me make my final decision & blow the dough.
Am building a fatbike with a Sturmey-Archer SX-RK3 hub with 1/8" sprocket (stock, 3/32" is available) and a Cyclone motor kit with 3/32" sprockets. Am wondering about the feasibility of running 1/8" chains on those 3/32" sprockets that were designed for use with cassettes. Any thoughts?
I've been thinking alot about pairing an IGH with a belt drive on a fat bike. Seems like that would maximize the benefits/minimize resistance. Have you done much with the larger IGH's? Wife has a 3spd cruiser but my only exp with IGH is a bike I got at a yard sale in 91 for $5. Stuck in 3rd, no brakes. I rode it every day for 2 years, lol. With a wider gear ratio (7/8/?) could you still achieve decent climbing AND legit throttle down speed on the flats?
Dumb Question Department: If you like the idea but want wider gear ratios, why would you pick such an old-school hub? Why not Rohloff or Enviolo? You skimmed over "ruggedness"; can you quantify that by torque or something?
This 5 speed was barely over $100. Those others were out of my price range. No I can’t quantify anything in this video with any data, only my opinion 😬
I'm using the same hub with my Bafang HD. Are you using the shift sensor on yours? I am using it just to insure protection of the hub, but it seems to make things a bit glitchy. In 3rd gear, it feels like the motor is occasionally dropping out, like the cable is somehow tripping the sensor. I've been avoiding using 3rd gear for this reason which kind of sucks. Any advice?
3rd gear is the weakest gear on that hub so it might actually be slipping physically? Good idea to use the shift sensor though 👍I’m assuming you check to make sure it’s staying in adjustment?
@@JohnnyNerdOut I've got that 5 speed SA hub too (another comment on that above). It's weird that 3rd gear is the weakest, as it's the 1 to 1 gear on that hub, so you would think it would be the strongest. How is that hub holding for you a year later? Or did you replace it with something else?
for what, this? www.modernbike.com/product-2126257090?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JSLBhCxARIsAHgO2Sf8fKfWLLLvFybyvSOCwl-yHP5bGaGuhXkMfayHqu_72o1c7eSqpfMaAjTtEALw_wcB
I have a hard time finding internally geared electric hubs, there aren’t any on Amazon. Does anyone have links? I’d like to find a 1000watt or more internally geared hub
@@JohnnyNerdOut Do you think a decent budget internally geared hub, a carbon drive belt and a BBS-02 will work well together? Running at 750w. Slightly rough commuting purposes in an extremely rainy area.
I’m assuming you still run a shift sensor? Do igh need shift sensors? Will the bafang sensor accomodate igh? How different are they? Is shift time adjustable?
I don't use a shift sensor. I simply stop pedaling for a second before I shift. I also don't use a brake sensor since you instinctively actually stop pedaling before pulling on the brake levers. If you use a thumb throttle you can install it on the right and a thumb shifter next to it - this way in ordder to shift you have to let go of the throttle anyway.
Are you kidding ?? I have a Sturmey Archer 8 speed hub with over 2400,00 miles on it works Great from Day ONe...! On my TerraTrike Rover with 750watt mid-drive ,,,!
Thx Dan , I think Wilderness is really just an ebike hater.... they are still out there. For 10 years of ebiking , I could not even get my local LBS to touch my bikes.
I love your channel, I too am obsessed with ebikes. I have read that you can't use a coaster brake with the bafang mid drive motor. This is the reason I have stayed away from mid drives. I was considering the Shimano IGH. Is it true that coaster brakes can't be used with mid drives?
You can get the TSDZ2 motor - it has a coaster brake compatible version. JOhnny how did you manage to do it? My BBS01 has a freewheel in the cranks/chainring so when I pedal backwards the cranks turn, but the chainring doesn't. Did the make a coaster brake compatible version for the BBSHD?
@@JohnnyNerdOut I currently have an 8-speed Nexus. However, for manual long distance touring I am debating between either an 8-speed & 34t set up or a 12-speed & 36t set up. Your opinion for long distance touring plus around 55lbs of cargo then pulling a med. size 20” wheel dog trailer?
It would've been a much better video if you had just taken 5 minutes to remove the panier bags. At least lift out the bag on drive side. People want to see the cool IGH and the belt drive set up, not the panier bags. It's what these RU-vid bike videos are all about.
@@JohnnyNerdOut You should do yourself a favor and get rid of that stock steel chainring and put a Narrow Wide on it will be much better for the chain and gear shifts. That is what I did on all of my Fatbike I converted to the IGH HUBS on my channel and I posted the videos as well.
