I bought this 1996 Ski-doo MXZ 583 last fall, and it's been nothing but problem after problem. She'll never again look like new, but maybe we can make her at least run like new!
As someone who has rebuilt 583s a few times right down to the crank, there are a few things to note. You generally want two or three *wet* primes where you can see fuel flowing to the carbs before starting it cold. On mine, I need to give it five or six loose pumps before it even gets fuel up to the carbs, even with a new primer. Your belt is also too low in your secondary, so you should probably take a look at the deflection and alignment. If you didn't change out the needle jets in the carbs, you may want to. On my 583, the original needle jets (224 AA-2) were so worn out that they were bogging the midrange heavily and making the idle circuit extra rich until I replaced them. Blowing out all of the passages with compressed air is also helpful. Rebuilding the fuel pump is also very easy and would be good practice if you don't know when it was last done. Replacing the filters with the stock airbox would also be a good idea as the OEM jetting table would only apply with the stock box. Lastly, did you have a disconnected oil line, possibly the one running to the pump? Even with premix, you still need oil feeding to at least the rotary valve cavity to keep that gear bathed. You may also want to give it a bit more of a warmup before ripping...
Rebuild those carbs. Sync them, Put a proper air box on those two at the end of the carbs cause alot of issues with snow getting in. and restricting air flow check your carb boots for any cracks, Drain that tank, put fresh gas in and a bit of gas line antifreeze for one tank. And it should be good :)
Sure. But as you go through deep snow and it flies through your hood vent holes. Where does it collect? Yep. Right on those little carb air filters. And where does melted snow go from there? Right into your engine. Put an air box back on it. You can buy thinner air filter fabrick than the stock box had. Cut it to shape. And there's your equivalent to a few holes in your air box, BUt still will be protected too :) Cheers :) And I love your videos too :)
Two bucks stand atop a hill watching over some does. The young buck says let's run down and get one of those does. The old buck says let's walk and get them all. That was my thought when I finally fixed my hood cable. Ten minute job that I let bug me for most of a season 😂. I would have made this same video 5 years ago, unsoldered wire and all. Keep it up up though, its all fine when your riding!
First fix the dam pull start!! Check boots etc for dry cracks,air leaks. Spray parts cleaner down the side the motor between the block and clutch. Engine speed picks up, seals bad.
I once had a jetski that ran perfectly fine. And from one day to another it ran very bad. It was end of season and I wanted to sell it so to the end of winter I started looking into it and found out there was a hole in the exhaust. The fumes came out inside the hull and the intake is in the same space. The machine inhaled his own exhaust fumes and that does not work very good. So I fixed the hole and inmediately ran perfect again. So maybe your exhaust leak caused the same issue here.
125 seems kinda low compression for being a brand new top end being that it is a rotax and you are going to ruin that top end running the sled like that
If you haven't already spray some carburetor cleaner on the crank seal behind the clutch see if it revs up and down and that will determine if it has a bad crank seal cuz it definitely sounds it's not firing on 2 cylinders
That hood side decals sure look like those of a 1997 MXZ. Decals on the trailing arms are 1996. It is liquid cooled, that engine Needs to sit running for about 5 minutes to warm up or until the thermostat opens. And then a few minutes more. Not running on both cylinders. Those carbs need a serious cleaning. Replacing parts without proper cleaning or float setting is not likely to help or justify the cost of the carb kit in my opinion. Can you cover the damn thing up? Consider not pulling the rope until you have tension on the rope. Damage to the pull start mechanism will ensue using your current technique. Usually the fuel pickup in the gas tank has broken up and disintegrated by now. Has this in tank fuel line and it's in tank filter been checked/replaced? The 583 and 670 Need the primer to keep them running when you first start them up. I have the same machine, Clean carbs are your starting point in this situation. Though, encouraging to see that you are not afraid of getting after it mechanically Please clean the carbs proper. Then go after the dropped cylinder.
I’m a Ski Doo guy so I’d say keep it or do what I did and keep flipping them until you find something you just got to have and think of all the fun you will have doing it. I remember my first ski doo. That was 30 plus years ago. I had so much fun and I’m still having fun. I got a 2003 mxz X800rand a 2017 renegade 850x. Have fun ride safe. 👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦👍👍
a few tips I hope you already know is old mxz take a lot to start also the keys like to power only 1 cylinder if its not on just right and they don't like to run cold let them warm up for 5 to 10 min and running them at high idle when cold will Couse bad damage over time as the pistons and cylinder walls change from temperature you can get piston slap or could couse the rings to bind up.
You might want to check the sparkplug caps, bad caps can cause plug fouling. If you measure the resistance across the cap with a multimeter you should get a reading of about 75 ohms. When reading plugs, I recommend using used plugs to get a clearer reading (should be done after a wide open run)
I sometimes think that crappy ethanol fuel, contributes to a lot of these no run, no start conditions, it doesn't last very long either, before it's junk !
@@user-ho7ds1lq2y Could be gasket or crank seal. If your engine is a liquid cooled then you will leak coolant into your engine or outside the engine and you will know.
One thing to take note of is those pod filters, I had some on my 98 mxz 500 and it bogged out, when I put the stock air box in it ran perfect, it’s ether getting to much air or not enough
Those 583 and 670 motors are bulletproof if maintenance is done properly. Definitely need to rebuild carbs and go from there. U need the airbox to run properly too....u are sucking snow into the carbs possibly
Also, there is water in the gas tank. That’s why your sled is having that issue where it runs just won’t move. Put some HEET in the tank over night, should be good n ready to scream after that
I’ve had the same problem on my sled, what it does is suck air somewhere between the carbs and the cyl block. Could be a boot, maybe the carb isn’t seated properly in the boot, if you run it like that it will blow a piston. Another possibility is if the crank seals are leaking, as mentioned above if you spray carb cleaner at the seals, also at the carb to engine connections, and the engine gains rpm, that’s where it is leaking.
$10 tarp will keep snow from eventually melting into your gauges display causing moisture build up and shorting out your electrical system. Also check the compression it sounds low! Good luck.
My 1999 grand touring 500 is a beeeotch to start. I added electric start to it. 5 or 6 primes and away it goes. Then I just use pull cord to fire it up once warm. Half a pull no issues
It’s only running on one cylinder. Check compression first. Clean carbs meticulously. New everything. Get rid of the existing gas in tank and replace with new.
That thing sounds like the rotary valve is out of time. When it does pick up on 2 cyl. You have to get it running on 2 before you can do anything. Did you ever check for spark ?
the problem is you, blasting it full throttle isn't the way to keep a cold engine running, use the primer as much as needed, its leaning out when you open the throttle. i rebuilt my engine and carbs, it fires up instantly but needs a pump or two to keep it going when cold. i never use the pull rope but it starts first pull if the battery is weak. you might want to do a compression test.
Your belt is burning because you didn't bounce the back of the sled up and down first thing when it sits out in the cold for a few hours. Everything freezes up so bounce it a few times to free it up. Also inner cylinder is not firing. Your clutching is filthy and I guarantee you that they are not shifting out properly look at all the belt dust build up on the sheevs. You need to take the primary and secondary clutches apart and clean them. Fix you exaust leak no exaust equals no power. Clean your variable exaust valve's there probably gummed up and not opening all the way judging by the way the sled looks. If you maintain that sled right you will have a fast 100 mph sled. They are quick and nimble I have one to this day and it is like a tractor it just keeps going but I maintain it the way it needs to be. You have a great little sled there don't give up on her yet. Also keep an eye on your break system they get gummy in the master cylinder and hang up not releasing the breaks and hang the caliper up and make the rotor red hot and catches the break fluid on fire because it melts the o- rings out of the caliper and fluid leaks all over the rotor and poof instant fire and melts all your wiring and cdi as well and possibly melts gas line and then history. I hope you read this and take my advice.
As a carburetor person.. don't use needle nose...and also the carburetor body's should be soaked with cleaner for a few days to clean all ports..just saying
You need to melt the snow off have it where it's warm and adjust your carburetors that will be a start I have an 81 9500 Plus did the same thing I cooked out the carburetors and rebuilt them all you need to do now is adjust your high-speed
I’m confused, what’s the point of replacing parts on the carburetor with out actually cleaning any of the passages…. You replaced the main jet without cleaning the emulsion tube, you replaced the pilot jet without cleaning out the passages, for all you know there’s a piece of gunk clogging your pilot jet passage and that’s why you can’t start it, also if it’s actually flooded pull it over while holding the throttle wide open, you need more air to overcome the excess fuel you now have in the combustion chamber.
I wouldn’t run good either if someone revved the piss out of me when I was that cold. let it warm up before you touch the gas. if it ran properly you wouldn’t need to touch the gas to keep it running
Your videos are interesting, but man, WARM THE SLED UP before you even touch the throttle. ALWAYS let it run until the cooling system is warm front to back of sled. The recoil, put a bit more tension on the spring so it retracts fully. And take the slack out of the rope before yu yank on it. That will rip the recoil into pieces if you keep doing that. Rebuild fuel pump on that mxz, when it's running, spray brake clean or something flammable, at the crank seal behind clutch, and if there's a little window of some kind around the recoil side where you can spray some into the flywheel/stator area spray it to. Might have to start it without the recoil on to check that seal. Not sure on that model. But definitely warm the machine up very well before you move the machine.
Get rid of those garbage pod filters. Find a factory air box. You probly have a bad crank seal on the pto side. I bet your mid pipe is full of rust holes.
Well you got it running now right it's not all bite up right if I was you trade it for something else well it's running they where bad for the Staters in them you don't won't to get in to that but it's your sled right how am I to say looks good though your friend steve
This is abuse 😢 look up some RU-vid videos you’ll get er, check oil pressure and lines, clean gas tank out and let the poor thing warm up more importantly
Or trade it Idk how to upload a picture on here but i could show you a side by side comparison of a screenshot i took of your video and a picture of when i had it
