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I'm all for leaving the welds. They give it that rusty but structurally sound vibe. One thought: Could you have followed the curve of the trunk with that upper brace? It would kind of hide it, and then that would allow for a completely open look. Just a thought. Thanks, John, for the great video.
Idea: install the stock fuel cap on the fender/hood, close the rear location for it the same way you did the shock towers, but grind to look like a round rust patch from something sitting on there for long
you can speed-rust any bare metal (welds or sanded) by spraying a mixture of 4 parts vinegar and 1 part hydrogen peroxide. It makes rust in minutes. Rinse with water once it reaches your desired rust level, dry and spray with flat clear. I made a couple vintage looking signs using this method and love how quickly and easily it creates patina
Ive been following your 1000 build for awhile now and i love it the details to patina and still being structural aswell, i just wish the car wasnt so rare because i want one 😂 its like a 60 impala and 59 buick had a baby car and its sick dude 🤘
You should take the auto union material-recycling up a notch and sprinkle the metal shavings from cutting and grinding into epoxy to make a glittery shift knob for it
John, I don't know if you will see this, but if you do. PLEASE use the original 1000SP fuel fill location and connect it to the Type 3 engines oil dip stick tube. It would look factory on the 1000SP and nearly identical to how a factory Type 3 Squareback dipstick tube is connected.👌🏻 I love watching the progress of this build. Definitely my favorite on the channel so far! 👏🏻 - Dee (1972 VW Squareback owner) 🫡
You’ve already read my mind! But I am going to weld in a custom Type 1 dip stick “under the hood” and make the 1000SP fill neck the oil fill for the motor! That is already originally where you would add oil to the 1000SP because it was 2 Stroke!!
Really been enjoying this build. @urchfab did a Ford Anglia on his channel a few years ago that he put on a miata chassis and made a track car. Yery similar to how youre doing. But i like that youve kept the patina
Absolutely love your channel. I have very similar taste in cars as you and your fab work is amazing. Love seeing what goes into these builds! That e23 tho! 🤙
Pretty fun episode to watch, found myself laughing out loud a couple times xD that rear frame looks promising! I would try to triangulate from the bottom right angle of the bumper supports up to the parcel shelf, just to give the structure a bit more support 🤔
Now that’s what I call a good video. Fast informative showing skills . You stay on that track and you will go places. Or pay the bills anyways. You should have a second channel now. Keep the junk separated. Jive talk on that one. But this was a good video. Good progress. You might make that show. Good luck. PS the word you looking for is Kintsugi. Not to hide the history. Battle wounds. 👍👍
I am really enjoying the build and can't wait to see it move under its own power. I also am a fabricator and hot rod builder and have been capturing some of my own stuff. Curious to know what camera gear you are using to get your footage. Thank you and best of luck on the build as I will be here to watch every episode
Haha I’m the exact same way with wanting all the new frame etc to be painted but don’t want to touch any of the original patina on the body 😂 And god damn I missed those tail lights, they complete the back end of that car! So hyped to see it next month!
Would it have been possible to bend radiused tubes at front of engine bay so they're hidden under decklid body lip & wouldn't show when decklid is open?
@JohnLudwick Haha lol Yes ! Too little too late... ? Just a point... (Pun intended)😂 Is to point exhaust exit to the left hand side, if not to late... Originally the side for all Auto-Union vehicle exhaust pipes John...
With the exhaust, have you seen the "up and over" type 3 exhausts by Trimill (I think)? One of those would give you loads of ground clearance at the back.
Just to add a note or a point of difference between the mix of VW & Auto-Union here... The "Deek" would have the exhaust exit on the left side & it would mean a great deal to us DKW owners, in my opinion, to keep the exit on the other side.
I understand you are going for the Rusto-Mod look / But Please address the shapes of the wheel well lines . Yes it dose matter because some of us do not like a rusty holed tin beer can on great wheels and rims touching the road .
Man i get why you explain your provess to the purists but you shouldn't have to. The car scene is diverse and layered, builds like these are introducing an auto union to a group of car enthusiasts that may never even have heard of an auto union before.
