When joining the 2 triangles together the "ears" should equal the intended seam allowance. Once joined and opened out this "ear" offsetting will prevent the misalignment on the edge of the join that can be seen around 14:25
Well written. I attempted to explain but failed in being more concise, as you did. I noticed this immediately. My husband said machinists don’t deal with seams in joining 2 pieces of metal together. Sheetmetal work uses seams and people working with sheetmetal would have accounted for it. Sewers and upholstery workers would also know that this is how it’s done. Makes sense now why he didn’t allow for the seam allowance.
Actually, “bias tape” and “binding” are only synonymous terms if the “binding” is cut on the bias. Many quilters don’t cut their binding strips on the bias because they don’t need or want the strips to stretch. I’m sure there are viewers who are thankful that you took the time to carefully and thoroughly establish your recommendations in this video. More experienced viewers can always fast forward or speed up the video. Thank you for caring and making this video for all of us! 😊
I spent like 2 hours recently, carefully preparing bias tape out of a nice remnant piece of cotton sateen, to bind a dozen or so small kitchen towels, I had made from two superfluous big bath towels (I just can't find any reasonably priced kitchen towels, that aren't ridiculously thin and flimsy and the color fits my kitchen better than my bathroom). Only after all that work, did it occur to me, that I did not need actual bias cut binding for this task. Just regular strips of fabric would have worked fine 😭. I sew clothes normally, so I always need real bias tape usually. I'm not used to binding long, straight edges. Guess my brain was braining that day...
@@raraavis7782 I, too, come to quilting from many years of garment sewing. I totally understand what you’re conveying about using bias tape or bias trim when making clothing. We just don’t consider using straight-of-grain binding because curves and ease are so important to achieving proper fit. 😊
Stretch is not the only reason to use the bias! The fabric is stronger and lasts longer than fabric cut on the straight grain! The threads don’t wear out as quickly when the cross the edge on the bias!
I really do appreciate all of these comments. Some are very good and some not so nice. But, that is ok , i am learning so much from all of you. So, thank you so much.
I believe making binding on the bias as opposed to the straight grain is also more durable. When you fold along the straight grain you only have the strength of the cross grain threads as opposed to folding along the bias where you have both grains crossing over the fold, making it double the strength.
Double fold- I was taught to use a 2 1/2” strip, fold in half, match raw edges with the raw edge of project, stitch with 1/4” seam. Then fold over to other side, just past the stitching line and edge stich
Bias tape is also used in applique so not entirely synonymous with binding. Bias binding was traditionally the only acceptable binding. Like many things in quilting, that has changed.
When sewing, my mentor taught me years ago one important trick. Hold the right side of the pieces together with your thumb BELOW the fabric and your fingers above. While holding, gently tip the 2 pieces together UP. Your left hand should be cupped with your fingers on the fabric. That is your guide. The reason for this method is that the feed dogs actually pull the lower fabric piece faster than the upper piece. By holding the fabric with the method described, your fabric will feed evenly. It also eliminates the need for multiple pins. My mentor was a sewing supervisor for Florence Eisman clothing. This is the factory method. I taught this in my fabric store as well as how to ease in fabric. While I was teaching this once, a longtime customer yelled out "WHY DIDN"T I LEARN THIS 60 YEARS AGO!"
If you ever tried a gravity fed iron, you'd never want anything else, lol! Even heat, great steam, and they don't shut off on you while you're working. The only drawbacks I see are they're heavy (but this is great for pressing) and you have to remember to turn them off. A sign by the light switch works great...
I just purchased your boards and they arrived yesterday. Do you have written instructions for how to fix the fabric for cutting on the boards? I don’t use bias tape all the time and I would like to have written instructions so that I can quickly remind myself of the steps.
You asked why people leave about 1/4” ear over the bottom piece of triangular fabric in the step at 11:14 minutes into your video. Once you sewed the 2 pieces together, at 14:21 minutes into your video, you will see that at the join where the base of the triangles meet, one edge is about 1/4” shorter, so the edges are not perfectly lined up at both ends of the seam you just sewed. If you had allowed the extra 1/4” overlap, or ear, on one end when you lined up these 2 triangles, you would find the edges lined up perfectly once your seam was sewn and pressed. What you failed to take into account was your seam width. Even though you matched up your edges, the 1/2” seam you sew bumps the join up by 1/2” therefore the edges aren’t aligned. They are off by 1/2” or so since your 1/2” seam allowance offset the edges on both ends. I’m surprised being a machinist, you didn’t take the seam allowance into account when you aligned the two fabric pieces together. On one end, your cut edge is short, it doesn’t meet the edge of the fabric it is sewn to. The same is true on the other end of the seam. You have 1/4” of your top fabric hanging over your bottom fabric.Therefore, in order to have both edges aligned, leave 1/4” (or whatever amount is necessary) to extend beyond the edge on one end and 1/4” shorter at the opposite end before sewing this seam. This is the correct, precise way to align your 2 pieces of fabric. The corners of the ends of bias fabric extend beyond the edges so that when they are sewn and pressed open, they are perfectly straight at the seam where the join occurred. It’s more difficult to put into words as opposed to visually demonstrate.
I agree. It was a little "wordy". After about 30 attempts at the video your voice starts to go. It's not easy to share something you have done hundreds of times in a way that is quick and easy. I do appreciate your patience, even at 2 times the speed. Thank you.
Wow, speaking of a pink elephant in the room, but we're not suppose to be concentrating on that. I'm totally confused as to what to do next. I've been sewing for 50 years. I think I'll stick to my old way, I would have finished it by now.
Just accounting for the 1/4” seam allowance. This is the easiest way for bias binding, I just folded my binding in half stitch it on folded over and stitch down with my 8 inch left compensating foot. Turns out beautiful!!!!!!!
Horrible video! Talk, talk, talk - it’s exhausting. We aren’t 3-yr-olds and if we’re needing bias tape, we already have sewing experience so get on with it! There are dozens of great bias tape making videos out there not made by Chatty Cathy - and they know we can easily roll the video back if something wasn’t clear so there’s no “I’ll show you again more slowly”. Geez.
If you click on "More" in the description box below the video, you will see a list of links from "Part 1" to "Part 4". Or, click on the "B" logo and it will take you to my RU-vid channel and you will see a list of videos there. Thank you for asking. Enjoy!
