The sprayer will barely lose pressure per caliper so just pump it again. Using a compressor will add water to your master cylinder for future disaster.
Very nice work. I have been struggling with a 2005 F150. Vacuum bleeding is leaky. Reverse pressure bleeding is leaky. I just ordered an OBDII scanner and the right pressure cap for my master cylinder. Going to try your setup, will add a small air filter for moisture. Well done!
You do realize that since this setup doesn’t have a membrane do separate the brake fluid from the air, you are going to contaminate your brake fluid with moisture from the compressed air. You should get a bottle of compressed nitrogen and a regulator to pressurize your system. They use nitrogen in HVAC repair because it both inert and dry. Your device would benefit from this, and nitrogen is pretty cheap.
Nonsense. The short amount of time the fluid is exposed to any air will have no discernable effect on the brake fluid. This is just more of that all-too-common exaggeration intended to get you to buy more brake fluid. It is indeed somewhat hygroscopic, and it will readily absorb water through direct contact, however. Just store any extra unused brake fluid in a sealed airtight container (like the plastic jugs it typically comes in), and it will last for decades. And HVAC technicians have historically used vacuum pumps for evacuating moisture from refrigerant systems, which is very effective. The use of nitrogen in HVAC is becoming quite common for both flushing and pressure testing lines, and while it is effective as such, it is not neccesary and it just drives labor rates yet even higher, to cover cost of additional supplies and additional time spent spent on related procedures. Also, that nitrogen must be properly processed (read: dried) when manufactured/bottled, and I can assure you that it frequently is NOT. But the usual suspects will certainly profit from all this, as usual, while everyone else that gets suckered into buying into yet another grift (it never ends) will certainly get poorer. (And the customer will be lucky if their new system doesn't fail within five years, because most of the parts comprising it are now basically substandard junk when manufactured.)
Great Video, I am going to attempt the build with this. Amazon shows one day ship for my location and the weather is suppose to be 60f tomorrow. Ive never gotten all the air out of my lines using the vacuum type bleeders. Ill be using my compressor with an output regulator and the parts you suggest. Thanks very much for sharing.
A stronger way of installing the 90’ brass fitting , install a 1/4” npt bulkhead fitting with included ( O ) rings into the container . Amazon or local hardware/ plumbing stores has these bulkhead fittings .
You can put a regulator with a moisture filter on your air tank. www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-trap-Included/dp/B00171BFKK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=380FKPK0I8OR7&dchild=1&keywords=air+pressure+regulator+with+water+trap&qid=1626334572&sprefix=air+pressure+regulator+with+%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-5
I’d did something similar. pulled vacuum with a converted. Oiless compressor. To the tank. And bled the lines from the bleeders. I just turn the compressor in a evacuator.. it pulls 20psi.
I wish I would’ve seen this prior to buying a Motive Power Bleeder - IT SUCKS! Out of the box it leaked everywhere - at plastic tank & gauge itself. I just ordered a repl - I tried sealant & Teflon tape everywhere but couldn’t get it to stop leaking.
Those are usually vacuum bleeders and after using this it worked great on the suburban. Then I tried to use it on a dodge and I couldn’t get a good seal.
Because every time you build something useful -- yourself -- you gain knowledge and develop skills that will greatly benefit you later. Hey, you might even get a little exercise...?
@@steveb7674Motive bleeders aren't worth the money. Tried one and returned it. Never would seal, original gasket or replacement. Couldn't build pressure. Unit was fine but it's just a very overpriced garden sprayer.
?? So even after hooking up a pressure pump to the master cyl you still had to use a scanner to auto bleed the system, I thought buy using your pressure pump that you would NOT need to use a scanner. I want to make the pressure pump but I don't have a scanner.
I know this is late, if you run a little extra fluid thru and pump your pedal a few times while bleeding, you do not need to use a scanner for bleeding the abs.
Mityvac MVA803 Master Cylinder Pressure Bleed Adapter www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLH06K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NHCS4V4C9F3W7XQGSZAN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I ordered for the suburban.
How did you bleed the air out of the master cylinder that you're putting into it out through your hose nobody has put a check valve release like on your tank for your master cylinder to get rid of the extra air that's in it
I haven’t had any issues with extra air being pushed in. I bleed the hose prior to putting it on the master cylinder. Then I flow until I have good clean fluid. So it bleeds and flushes at the same time. I do have an over full reservoir that I use a bulb syringe to suck out the extra fluid. Thanks for the question and please subscribe.
