Learning a lot here! Cypress has always been a very romantic place to many. In Greek mythology it's seen as the birthplace of Aphrodite, when Cronos castrated Saturn and from his unfortunate parts Aphrodite spawned. I worked in Cyprus a bit, mapping the geology. Visited Aphrodite's rock, where it is said she was born, by the sea. Also, there's the baths of Aphrodite, another beautiful spot. I wonder if those romantic French perfumers of the time had that in mind as well? Interesting.
@@RamseytheRam Thanks I will admit, trying to communicate castration in such a romantic and polite manner was not easy, I don't want the men in the comments to have an urge to cross their legs when reading it. Or even worse, any ladies getting ideas or inspiration 😂
Food for thought so to speak, romanticism aside it may be that Cyprus is famed since ancient times for its copper mines, Cyprus the name derived from Cyprium; latin for Copper. The first modern day commercial Chypre being Chypre de Coty is a dark copper/ bronze colour...who knows maybe this may have been the inspiration. I love Chypres myself, adding castration imagery I may move on to fougeres!
@@LEgoiste You are correct. As an ex-geologist myself, who worked there, I am surprised that never crossed my mind! 😂 That is also a really interesting idea!! Thanks for that!
Wearing MDCI Chypre Palatin now. I used to consider it a complex Amber fragrance because of the dominant Amber accord. But now I recognize the Chypre backbone and consider the Chypre and Amber facets to be fighting it out in an effort to control and define the genre/family/classification of the fragrance. Which wins depends on where in the wear lifecycle and which wear all together. Its a chameleon. Has Fruity Floriental facets as well. And smells like the taste of Australian Musk Sticks, so a gourmand aspect. Really, really good.
Great video Ramsey learned a couple new things. Personally my favorite Chypre at the moment is Chypre-Siam. I finished my bottle of Antaeus this winter so imma go looking for Azuree.
This is one of my favourite videos on RU-vid! I adore Chypre fragrances. Your knowledge is on point!! Mitsouko & Diaghilev will always be 2 of my lifetime scents.
I wanted to say that you single handedly made people like me dive into more fragrances and fragrances we wouldn’t even try. After watching your vids I tried the chypres and now it is my favourite type of perfumery with none other than dighelev standing at the top for me. I just got into vintages because you’ve been praising them and they are as good as you say. So keep up the good work.
Wow! Excellent you've done Chypres proud, again your collection and knowledge is something else. I could comment on almost all your bottles except the Aventus...sorry had to draw the line somewhere! Fate woman is gorgeous, I really enjoy that and you're right way better than FM. Rogue, agree with your recommendations. The Kaffir lime leaves are used predominantly in Thai cuisine hence the name Chypre Siam, Siam being the previous name for Thailand. Iquitos, you nailed it, my favourite Jasmine along with Jasmin Antique by Rogue. So surprised to see you pick out Basara! That's been one of my secret scents. That and Feminite du bois, Zen ( first and second Versions), Murasaki and Nombre Noir are to me Shiseido's finest. Thoroughly enjoyable, so much to take in, sample etc etc...you know the story! Thanks.
@@RamseytheRam I have most of the mens line of Amouage and was going to get Fate Man but after watching your video i think i will go with Fate Woman since you rate it so highly.
Fate woman is amazing...but as far as fate man goes i like fate man and wear it sometimes when i want a kick in the pants.. its the most cumin heavy fragrance I have ever smelled...Eau D'Hermes is the best cumin fragrance ever IMO but fate man is the most heavy handed use of cumin if that makes sense.... it will put 9 out 10 people off I think but if you are a collector and love and can handle the uniquness of an Amouage keep fate man on the list but buy fate woman first for sure 👍
I liked watching this video. I will use it as a reference because I'm interested in chypres and perfumery in general. In 2021, I bought a bottle of "Chypre-Siam", and when I first tried it, I hated it. However, recently, I tried it again, and I've been liking it.
Very informative, thanks for this! I’ve turned a corner on Roja and have been really taken with Diaghilev. I need to get my nose on that Azuree! Another recommendation is MDCI La Belle Helene, another chypre created by Duchafour. Not as hyped as CP, but I love it just as much. Utilizes pear/iris instead of peach…drop dead gorgeous on either sex.
Thanks Fosco I trust your nose I will put La Belle Helene on the to sniff list for sure! As far as Dighilev goes if I ever win the lotto im gonna bathe in that stuff 😄
Awesome list and collection.I’m impressed! My all the time favourites are chypre extraordinaire and haute luxe I always make sure I have back up bottles.thanks for sharing
Those are amazing but for some reason Diaghilev just makes me swoon in a way no other Roja does not clue why lol... I almost bought a backup bottle around Christmas even though I clearly dont need it 🍻
Ralph Lauren Polo ("Green") is my favorite Chypre, and my favorite fragrance of all time. It got me into fragrance's to begin with. It represents a traditional Gentleman's Club full of the most senior, powerful old Republicans you can conjure sitting in their Chesterfield leather furniture with a pipe in one hand and scotch in the other. As Chanel's No. 5 was intended to be Coco's Scent of a Woman, Polo was intended to be The Scent of a Man.
If you dont have it i would highly highly recommend that.. try and find the version where the Eau de toilette is written above chanel & the top of the cap is silver and the atomizer is silver not black. If you cant find that version just try and find one with a silver atomizer at least 👍
Well, Ramsey, what else to add? I adore Chypres, and I'd like to recommend Chypre Mousse, Eucris EDP and Devin. Bandit is a fantastic scent, which was created (if I'm not wrong) for Marlene Dietrich: no surprise it's totally unisex, if not very masculine, for modern standards. Roja's fragrances are fantastic, but they cost too much, in my opinion. Salome is in my wishlist. I can't find a vintage Azuree: is the current version still worth buying? Sincere respect from Italy.
Dont buy the modern stuff its lost all that heavy oakmoss inwas talking about .. i have devin & forgot to include it 🤦♂️but yes that is a lovely green masculine chypre ...chypre mousse is on my to sniff list as is Eucris ... thanks for the recs 👍
Siam is the old name of Thailand, and that sort of lime is used in the green cury on of the most famous dishes of Thailand, a bit late to the party but what a great informative video this is 👌🏼
Rich and very knowledgeable content as usual, bravo Ramsey. My favorite is Palatine and my aim is on Diaghilev, i had a vintage 1963 Mitsy ( beautiful perfume). PS Comment section is also 100% quality
Chypre is also my favorite perfume genre. I have a lot of classic chypre perfumes in my collection and all of them marketed for women. Love your collection.
Thank you so much ... it is my favorite Genre as well... i love this mysterious aspect that most chypre fragrances will give to the wearer.. thank you for watching & commenting... it is much obliged 🙏
Couldnt agree more ... thats where my fragrance journey really took a turn to be more "serious" when I realized just how beautiful some of these old vintage fragrances can be 😊
Couldn’t spend the 7 large for Diaghilev, but love the sample I have. so have Jubilation XXV for women coming tomorrow, which Smells Good channel compared them favorably as quite similar. Hoping for the best, I’ll let you know.
@@RamseytheRam wow this Jubi for woman is gorgeous, you gotta get your nose on this one. Btw, selling a lot from my collection, most like new, at a fraction of cost. Don’t buy before checking with me
Another brilliant discussion ya know i sometimes pull at threads in my collecting habits and ive noticed that Rosewood is one of my favorite notes .... tidbit of useless knowledge lol ✌
Now this is going to sound weird.... I think my love of rosewood scent comes from my guitars with a rosewood fretboard! Opening the cases you get this rosewood hit that I can't help but inhale. Not the same with my maple fretboard guitars. Also cleaning and treating them it's a pleasure just for the scent.
@@LEgoiste yeah thats a good shout Simon... i can remember my mother had these Rosewood Rosary beads and on Easter I would actually participate and go through the Rosary with her ... she normally would be left praying the Rosary alone but once or twice a year she would force me to join and the smell from the beads was literally heavenly 🙏🙏🙏
@@RamseytheRam That's a lovely scent memory Ramsey. I was given Rosary beads by a Palestinian colleague, yes Palestinian. He knew I am Catholic (Irish Mother) and when he returned to Saudi from a vacation to his home in Jerusalem he bought me these rosary beads made from olive wood in Jerusalem. A risky thing to do in Saudi as no other religion is tolerated there. Needless to say it's a treasured memory and item. Sorry no scent association there.
Every morning I wake up wondering if today is finally the day Ramsey posts his RANKED not a top 10 favorite Chypres. ;P Chypres being my newfound love (thanks to you!) this has been one of my favorite videos I’ve probably rewatched >5 times now 😂 Oh yeah, and I grabbed both a vintage of Aramis EDT and the Cologne you mentioned here. Both are amazing. But that cologne is both darker in color and deeper in depth. Ended up collecting the entire Aramis Gentlemen lineup. Love them all!
I said the same thing about Jean Charles de Castelbajac JCC No. 2 from 1988... i think the reality is Diaghilev is an amalgamation of many of our favorite chypres combined 😂😂😂
The name Bel Ami was actually taken from the famous novel written by French author Guy de Maupassant, way back in 1885. It describes journalist Georges Duroy's corrupt rise to power from a poor former cavalry NCO in France's African colonies, to one of the most successful men in Paris, most of which he achieves by manipulating a series of powerful, intelligent, and wealthy women. I guess Hermes could not have picked up a batter name for this perfume - it is classically masculine, elegant, strong and dark in some ways. Feels quite retro, but in a good way. Stocked up 3 bottles of the first reformulation and planning to get a vintage shaker bottle. In my humble opinion, top 10 of everything that was, is and will ever be created in perfumery.
@@RamseytheRam stuff of Legends indeed mate. Hail to Jean-Louis Sieuzac, the nose behind this masterpiece and also creator of Fahrenheit, Dune, Opium Pour Femme, original Or Black and original Sagamore. You know, there are perfumers in this business with the level of skill that even the most skilled envy, and Mr Sieuzac is certainly up there in the pantheon. I recently tried Roja's Fetish Pour Homme and Puredistance M, and what can i say, none of them has that raw, masculine effect that Bel Ami has for me. Call me biased if you wish, but it's for a reason Roja wanted to replicate Bel Ami twice and none of them quite hit it (not to belittle Mr Dove's products of course, they are very good as they are, just not on that godlike level for me personally).
@@rncrntdh8 its funny but I own both the original Puredistance M & Fetish & I love them them both but I again agree with you... they are good but they arent Bel Ami 😊
God its so good and so dirty and i know its a take on mitsouku & rochas femme but i cant help my self i love it.. even smelling it from the atomizer is amazing 🤤
@@RamseytheRam I had the first bottle, the edp with the bulb atomizer created for the ballet project, but for some unknown reason, sold it. I was able to pick up a partial bottle of the parfum later. The parfum is more refined (and I think better made) than the edp, but still retains that sexy chypre character.
Omg well I am glad you told me that because that was on my blind buy if I ever see it for sale immediately the other items on the list are absolue pour le soir by mfk & the original charles of the ritz kouros.. i guess I will take Diaghilev EDP off that list... thanks for sharing 😁
I like how you incorporate older fragrances into your video's. I finally did get the L'air d'Or you had in a video. Wow a dab does it on that one. Interesting that came from a person in Iowa as the creator I believe.
Ya its super strong stuff apparently... i still havent had the gumption to give it a full wearing yet... if i do I will give it a proper first impression video 😎
Gosh what a list!! I always Really enjoy the fragrance history Crash Course. Where do you source your information from for all of this? I know Eugen's streams have some influence but it seems you have also done some of your own research? I have some old Chypre's in my collection that never get talked about and I think they're just as deserving of some love. La Nuit by Paco Rabanne which is sex and foreplay bottled and Rochas Moustache eau de Toilette Concentrée in the "Can-shaped" or "Column" bottle the version that still has its oakmoss. Rochas Moustache EDTC its a timelessly uplifting Citrus Chypre (Not a Fougère like it is listed on Fragrantica because the time of its release in the 40s there was actually a comeback of the Chypres profile in the West after World War II). Interesting fact was that Rochas Moustache was considered too feminine during the era of its release. It was created by both Roudnitska and his wife Theresa Roudnitska but was the inspiration for later releases like Eau Sauvage and Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme. I'm glad that Maxim's Pour Homme made it into the list! That is some top shelf rugged spicy macho man goodness right there. R rated Chypre for sure I must also get a second bottle of it now!!! There's also an incredible story behind Maxim Pour Homme's creation as it was released the same time in 1988 as Aramis New West an "Aquatic". A new genre of fragrance introduced to the world that incorporated the aquatic aroma-chemical "Calone". Pierre Cardin the owner of Maxim's at the time didn't predict this fashion trend of aquatic fragrances was going to stick and was reliant on loyalty from clients still enjoying the dark and rugged leathery Chypres of the 80s like Antaeus, Fendi Uomo (released the same year of 1988), Kouros and Bel Ami to name a few. Maxim's Pour Homme quickly lost its battle to New West and the new Aquatic genre in fragrances took the world by storm... Again, I enjoyed the video.
Great story thanks for sharing.. not a fan of the calone note tbh.. much more interested in the leathery chypre... here is a question rich mitch & I have been going back and forth on .. is Kouros a chypre??
@@RamseytheRam Neither am I but I have New West and it is quite a brilliant aromatic aquatic fragrance of two worlds - fougère and aquatic- definitely deserving of its title as one of if not the flagships of the aquatic genre. That is an excellent question. Unfortunately I can't weigh in because I still have to try Kouros 😅. I know right "Where have I been....!"🙄 By the notes of Bergamot in the top florals like geranium and jasmin in the mid and oakmoss, civet, amber and honey in the base it definitely looks like it should be a Chypre.
Kouros is like one of those all time greats that transcends genre to me... 🦆 said Eugene told him it was a chypre... me? I have no clue how i would classify it lol
This video is an absolute masterclass to me for chypres! Wow thank you! I'm a fairly new fraghead and recently have been taking a deeper dive into learning more about chypres. So glad to learn that I already have several mentioned here in my collection. I particularly thank you for showing the Aramis. I just realized that I have that same vintage bottle that I inherited from my dad but never realized until watching this what a rare and amazing gem it is (it smells so intoxicating). I just pulled the trigger on ordering Chypre Siam (instead of Etruscan Water) so super stoked to receive that soon. Would love to also try Rochas Femme, Chanel No 19 edt and Knowing. For those 3, any thoughts on their current formulations? Still worth buying or better to try to find older ones? Thank you so much again and again! Now on to your video class on Oakmoss frags :)
You should always go for the older bottles if possible... but you named three amazing frags where even the modern version is better than 99% of stuff being put out there now a days ... thanks so much for the kinds words and BTW i did a RANKED Chypre video... Enjoy 🤌🤌🤌
Love your videos Ramsey, although IMO your forgot Pour Monsieur (and eau sauvage) which are the quintessential chyprés (in France we say Chypré just for info) I am stunned at the number of vintage bottles you have you must have had them some time ago because their prices are nuts now? keep up the fine work!!! 😄
Thanks so much Art... I have since ranked these into lists .. i split the catagory up into Leather Chypre (my favorite) & fruity/floral Chypres ... i have a playlist where you can watch my Ranked videos under this is NOT a Top ten RANKED! Let me know what you think... eau sauvage and pour monsieur (the EDT) are probably my least favorite catagory of chypre... if you forced me to pick from that style probably Monsieir Lanvin or Ungaro Pour L'Homme II would be my choice as I like the animalics in them more 😊
Looooved this one man . Also I was wondering maybe it’s time for a fresh top 10-20 most worm / personal favorites ? We do love a ranked not a top list 😁 cmooooon u know u want to 🤓👍
Great stuff! This series is up there with the very best perfume videos on RU-vid. Are you a fan of rose? I'd really like to hear your "not a top ten" on that note!
@@RamseytheRam I think so. We seem to have similar taste and an affinity to vintage masculine fragrances in genera and a 5ml mini can be had for under $12 or a 75ml splash for under $50.
Finally, I had a decant of Mousse Iluminee (quiet original but not for me) and the Chypre Siam (not much original). Well Chypre Siam is so close to Bal A Versailles edt the recent bottle. Equally good so I don't need a full bottle. But an interview with him is crucial. He did well with his takes on perfumery. The hunt will continue for Rogue.
Yeah you were right. I wore Chypre Siam one more time and not that similar to Bal A Versailles. Rogue has distinct Jasmine not. At the end of the day, I like my 50 ml EDT of Bal A Versailles more but Rogue is always decant worthy.
Roja Chypré Extraordinare I took the bait and bought this one for my mother for Christmas. Yeah it's expensive. I figure I have paid more on jewelry that rarely gets worn. What can I say other than my mother is probably worth it. RD included a free travel size in an order I had back in Nov.. I sprayed some on my arm and I really liked it. Diaghilev I also got. It seems to get some hype and it was okay.
I think chypre extraordinaré would smell great on a woman with class and gravitas... i just think it is one of the Rojas that is drastically over priced.. but like you said price is subjective...for me i would rather wear mitsouku over Chypre Extraordinaré🤷♂️
@@RamseytheRam Thanks. I'll have to get Mitsouku from Guerlain for my mother. Behooves me why I missed getting that one from Guerlain. I've bought numerous Guerlain's for her. Even a few no longer available.
I think she would absolutely love it.. get her the EDP if she heavier scents and the EDT if she prefers lighter airy scents.. either way u cant go wrong 👍
@@RamseytheRam dude, before you said Diaghilev I took out my sample of it and I’ve always said that it’s not that similar to mitsouko. All of a sudden it hit me, I wore rochas femme last night and I said it’s a mix of femme and mit before you said it.
It really is .. its a dirty rochas femme & mitsouko updated with Rojas dirty animalic cumin & I love it... its his best fragrance by far ... way way way better than his 3500 dollar haute luxe...i would take 3 diaghilevs over 1 haute luxe anyday
Well, it's not ChyFra. It is Chy Pra ! Pronounciation is with "P". Your analysis was great. I will by Diaghilev because of your advice. Thank you. Chypres are so good. Long live Mitsouko..... (magic in Japanese)
Make sure you smell it before you drop that kind of money... I have decided Diaghilev is like a blend of Mitsouku, Rochas Femme, Robert Piguet Bandit & Estee Lauder Azurēe... if you get it let me know what you think :)
@@RamseytheRam I will, but Diaghilev is not so expensive for me. My intuition said that it's worth the money. I like blind buying. By the way, Jubilation 25 for man from Amouage is, for now, my favourite fragrance. Enigma pour homme parfum is the second. Duchaufour is a genius for me. Aventus is a great chypre, but it's ruined. I will collect some very nice chypres, just like you, and we can discuss about them. Roja's favourite group of fragrances is also Chypre. Thank you, sir Ramsey. Greetings from Serbia...
If you like Bertrand Duchaufour's work with Jubilation XXV check out his other creations like DIA Man by Amouage, Sartorial By Penhaligons, Timbuktu, Dzongkha, Mon Numéro 10, Méchant Loup & Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Chypre Palatin by MDCI & Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir 😊
@@RamseytheRam I have Dia Man and Timbuktu. Dzonkha is on the way. Sartorial is my wish when I find where to buy. Chypre Palatin with bust is waiting for me in Amsterdam (Perfume Lounge). I must buy Palatin with bust because I like beautiful bottles. You also love fougeres, just like me, so how do you like Houbigant - Fougere Royal ?
@@dusanninic5372 i actually have a video on Fougere Royale coming up very soon! I think I did a this is NOT a top ten Fougere video if you pull up my playlists or search the channel you will find it 🙏
Hi Ramsey. Beautiful video content. Very enlightening. Thank you for this. Your camera placement is actually disturbing. You are not well placed in it. It's out of balance please look into it and correct it.
Thanks for watching. You are watching a video from a year and half ago... I have since created a new set up. If you search any of my videos in the last year you will see the new set up Cheers 🍻
If you like Chypre Palatin also give Shangri La from Hiram Green a go. I think my sample is the 2022 version but they smell soooo close to me, maybe just a fruit switch. I think I might like Shangri La just a bit more. Cheers.
Thanks for the rec... it's on the never ending wish & to sniff list 🐽 I did a livestream on the channel involving Hiram Green but that one wasn't on the list
@@RamseytheRam I know. Since I discovered you , I kinda binged the channel. I would love to send you some stuff, like Shangri La or Varanasi from Meo Fusciuni (one of the most artistic fragrances I've put my nose upon) but it literally cost me the equivalent of a good fragrance to ship it from Romania to the US. :(
@@RamseytheRam EU bureaucracy I hate it ! 🤮 Because of this + LVMH, my longtime favorite Habit Rouge has gone. The lack of oakmoss in the contemporary version is terribly noticeable !
I have been to Maxims in Paris years ago when I was young but there was no perfume back then. Someone we knew took my friend and me there while we were on a trip to Paris and treated us to a glass of Cognac at the Ritz.
It still pains me how you pronounce chypre…. Great taste though… I would Roja’s semi bespoke 3 is more terre d’hermes like than oligarch… I wouldn’t call Salome a chypre. I love the skanky indolic jasmine in it but not a fan of hay or lots of honey
Every french persons ears bleeding to death within a thousand mile radius thing?? 😄 Thats the cost of living in Texas! As far as semi bespoke fragrances from Roja I have never smelled any of them
@@RamseytheRam I’ve always wanted to smell the discontinued no 5. Supposedly it’s basically Roja Haute Luxe for 1/3 the price (well not to say that’s cheap haha..). I can understand people finding it boring (looking at you Luca Turin) but I’ve really fallen for it… love the violet note…
Roja LOVES violet.. he dresses in violet colored suits & sits on violet colored couches.. the caps on his most exclusive haute luxe line is violet and he does make a beautiful violet note in my of his creations... if i could sample them all I would but i dont have the access here in Texas 🤷♂️
