Its not because of expansion when you have used spacers. Its because the floor is uneven in that particular spot for some reason. I had this happen and I put an extra layer of underlayment in that spot and it did the trick. Not sure if that is right or not but it worked. I have also used a cut of quarter inch plywood in an area that is not high traffic and that is working fine too. I just made sure it was under the underlayment.
Yes. I have seen that happen as well. In this particular case however when the base was pulled it had expanded and about 4 rows were jammed up against the sill making it lift.
Presuming they’ve cut all the boards tight to the wall and not just one plank causing that much movement, an oscillating tool wouldn’t be your best bet.
I would almost bet this is because air and moisture is coming in under the front door. Running some sealant under the transition and threshold will help this from happening. This should be done during installation.
Tore up hardwood floors. Sanded sub floors. 1 floor i took out all staples by hand. Smooth as much as possible. My floors still suck. LVP. Left 1/4 for breathing room. I have no idea what is going on. 60 bucks per carton. 12M thickness.
I’m sorry to hear that. Some floors just don’t perform well. If subfloor was sanded and environmental conditions are stable, it could be the subfloor thickness/quality. I have seen two complete tear outs in the last 5 years because the subfloor/joists combo didn’t support the floor. Just because a home is up to code engineering wise doesn’t mean the flooring manufacturer is building for those spreads/thickness. Many flooring manufacturers require 7/8” thick sheathing (not 3/4”) if using 24” spacing on floor joists. 12 m? Do you mean wear layer or plank thickness? Most LVP is in the 4.5mm - 7mm material thickness with a 12-20 mil wear layer. Usually if it’s 10-12mm thick it’s laminate not vinyl/plastic.
That’s too bad you’re dealing with that. In my experience there’s really only two options. 1. Pull base and see where/if it is hitting due to expansion. Then cut ends to relieve pressure and reinstall base. 2. If it’s been under a lot of pressure or under pressure for a long time then the locking mechanisms may be damaged and can’t be fixed. I’ve seen both situations happen.
@@unclebucksprojects1537 copy that. I appreciate the reply! I need to go into the crawl space & take a look around … that same part of the house is extremely cold in the winter and I have a feeling some insulation might also be missing down there.
As someone else had said. Pull the base. You may be able to cut the material and reinstall the base. 3/8s of an inch would be perfect, but in a pinch, take a plank of the flooring and lay it flat against the wall. It should be at least that much space between the floor and the wall. Most LVPs won't change under cold, but the house will. With your SPC. Unfortunately, the locking mechanisms on the product may be tanked... especially if its as most of my reps these days are saying, "A product where we raced to the bottom to make it cheaper."
Use a multi-tool and a 1/4” spacer of your choosing against the wall. Work your way around the perimeter(s) of each room and remove the 1/4” for expansion. Sucks but not the end of the world. In this video though, I suspect that bowing is from the floor not being level underneath, and not the lack of expansion.
I can also be due to localized expansion, like by an appliance that’s warm underneath, hotspot from sun shining through uncoated windows, floor registers and even poorly insulated floors.
My issue is the opposite. They left a gap hidden by trim but because the Shaw Vinyl planks I had installed only had grooves on the sides to lock in place(not on ends) my floor is starting to separate at the ends.
Could be one of their super thin products, they technically do have a but joint locking mechanism, but they don't really have much meat to them. Those thin LVPs are running into alot of issues recently, especially in newer homes that were not finished settling yet. Lots of newer products coming out, as the vendors are tired of claims on it.
I just put a brand new floor in in a big room and it’s like this all the way around. I did leave 5/8 gap all the way around edges. So I’m hoping it’s brand new , the foam is still springy, and as we walk on it the floor it settles down.
I have this problem with my new build. Just a question, if I have this problem and the spongy part is by a big floor to ceiling window, is it easy to repair?
By a large window could complicate things some, but not really. You could just add a little more edge spacing there to accommodate for the temperature fluctuations the large window may add. I’ve seen a few lift due to it cooking in the sun all day if there isn’t window treatments.
As it’s a concrete floor did you install a vapour barrier and if so did you tape / seal the joints , also most tutorials I’ve seen stop the vapour barrier at the walls best to take it up the wall so it finishes just below the top skirting or in the US base boards, before laying your VB take moisture readings must be 14 or less.
Nope. We pulled the base. It didn’t have enough space for expansion. Was jammed against the sill plate on both sides. The flooring had nowhere to go but up.
Unfortunately there isn’t one straight answer. The pamphlet that comes with each floor will tell you. Usually though about 3/8” will be in the ballpark that gets hidden by base and leaves enough room.
Just about to get started 9n my LVP flooring and the instructions say to leave 1/4" for a room that's under 2400 sq ft and 1/2" for a room bigger than that.
First step is to remove baseboard in that area and confirm that expansion is the problem. If the flooring material is touching the wall or sill plate then the flooring will need some trimmed off. If the flooring is not touching the wall at either end it may be a subfloor prep issue, meaning it was not sanded and/or leveled properly and floor is failing. Hope that helps.
First step is to check the humidity. If your humidity is through the roof and you cut it shorter at the wall you may end up with a gap when the humidity drops naturally. Get the humidity in line, then take action.
If you mean preventing it, use edge spacing as per the floors instructions. If you mean how to fix once this has happened- pull baseboards in effected area. Use an oscillator or other tool to cut the end of the planks to the correct spacing and reinstall base.
Absolutely have seen that cause a bunch too. This particular floor had rows jammed up against the sill with no expansion room when we pulled the base off to investigate.
@@KH-3414 the easiest way to say it in my opinion is that LVP/VCC is all plastic. Where laminate still has pressboard or woodchips at its core and is generally much thicker and heavier. They both have there pros and cons.
