Your dual voice coil subwoofer will still work with 1 coil connected, but here is what you should know about doing that. Shop for car audio equipment and support our channel at www.emfcaraudio.com
Really like what your doing with this series Sean. People that have been competing for a while know most of what your showing. However your making videos and explaining things very simply with proof that any enthusiast can follow along with and understand. Keep up the good work man!
When I lost a coil in my 15. I ran it on a single coil for years and still had great sound. Actually it gained more power over time. Thanks for the Video.
mine is also 15 and i just blew one of mine lol hopefully i can get the same results lol Ive had my sub for years, got it used and I have no money to get a new one
Good video good information for new and experienced people it's nice to know someone cares about there customers understanding how products work and how to use them effectively
This car you’re testing in is very efficient in the 60hz range , incredible numbers, the best enclosure I ever made had a 122dB @ 1 watt at 42 hz , 152 with a 1000 watt amp. If you’re wondering it was 4 15s in a 4th order bandpass tuned to 50 hz , the box was in the bed of a 1992 Ford F-150 , blow through, the box was ported into the cab , Dayton audio dvc 15s and a Memphis audio 1000 d
Another reason for the extra bl on 2 coils is they act as inductors on themselves going from a 4 to 8 layer coil gives well over 2x the bl since they build a stronger field off of each other
I have one 10" Subwoofer dual coil driver connected with only one coil as my amp doesn't support the OHMS load if I connect them both together, I know is not the best option, but it is the only way I can have it working, have been using this way since like 7 years ago, still works and sounds great.
Awesome video! Love these demonstrations. I have a suggestion for another one. When wiring 2 dvc 4ohm subs together down to 1ohm a lot of wiring diagrams show 3 wires in 1 terminal. What's the best way you think this should be done.
Quite interesting and contrary to what i would have just assumed. Good info, ty. I haven't been through all your vids yet, so if you've already covered it ill find it, but an explanation or a general idea of what specs would be worth paying attention too. Maybe for which application also. Like Dampening ect...
Fkng outstanding! This just made me $100 richer😂 I've been arguing with my friend about this situation for a while, i don't understand how people can't see that it's like taking power away from it when you don't use both coils💡 It's simple as night and day, if you drive at night with only one headlight then your only going to be lighting up half of what you could/should be with both headlights😂 I know it doesn't take away half of the power by using 1 coil but it does take some power away from what it would/could potentially produce like you just proved, THANK YOU!👍👍👍👍
Only part where mine actually got louder was I have 4 dual 2 ohm mojos. Series parallel to 1ohm final. One of my coils on one sub went out. Didn't know about it for nearly 3 weeks. Honestly thought all 4 were banging. After one day watching the subs move. One seemed off. So I did an ohm check at final and was at 1.7 ohm. So I knew that sub was off somewhere. Turns out whole voice coil was out. So I plugged into just the good one, checked final and was back at 1 ohm again. Grant it. That poor thing gets hot fast af. But also, makes me think that sub was dead from the beginning or near beginning. Because this system never sounded so loud no that it's at 1 ohm and 4 subs moving hahaha. Although, not ideal and I'm getting a replacement
I hope you know it’s not taking power from the subwoofer it’s just not allowing the amp to push out as much because the ohms are higher like in my set up I’m doing right now I have a dual voice coil 15 two ohm but my amp is only rated for two ohm so that’s why I’m only connecting one voice coil because if you ran it at four would take a lot of power away but if you ran it at one it would destroy the amp as I plan on adding another 12 with this 15 that’s why I have a two ohm and not four because when I get this other one I can run them both at four ohm and then together they would drop back down to two
I saw a video years ago on RU-vid about a guy bashing Orion hcca subs cuz one blew the dust cap off and he only had one coil per sub hooked up . Had no idea what he was doing probably clipped them to death on one coil per sub lol.
So what would be the difference be if I hook up one side of two dvc subs in parallel? Final load of all four coils in parallel would be 1 ohm, amp can handle 2. Any help would be great
two requests. one: if you wire a resistor (changes ohms) in to the subwoofers speaker wires, would that be a more precise way to wire down, say for burping? other the the two choices of voice coil configurations. this way you could play around with impedance and also your frequency for the highest score. two: what happens if you wire down really really low, then play a frequency that would normally produce a high ohm resistance? would the increased power from the amp make the score higher?
Long long ago, nearly 20 years ago, there was a device sold that would do exactly what you're talking about. The idea was if you had a single voice coil you could wire lower. What we found was you gained power from the amp being at a lower impedance, but you gained no performance because that power generated was lost as heat in the device. It was also limited to 600 watts I think it was, that's all it would handle. Remember, those components have limits too. For the purpose of burping as you say, what most people do is wire in series for daily and parallel for burping. You change the impedance for no money and little effort. That is also part two of your question. If impedance rise is say 4x, wired to 2 ohms would play at 8 ohms and wired to 0.5 ohms would be 2 ohms during play so you do get a lot more power, which in turn makes the score higher.
Always use both coils... even if you have to wire up (series) [and/or wire back down if you have multi subs], it's better than only running one coil on a DVC subwoofer.
But is it bad to run on one coil giving it power because i know it's better to run 2 but my terminals off but I still need the sub so can I still slam it on 1 coil and not destroy it
I just tried to read the resistance on a DVC and got an open circuit on one of the coils, im wondering if i can run 1 DVC woofer w/ both connections and 1 DVC wooder w/ a single connections and just leave the open circuit coil out of the loop.
Great job on the content. I was hoping you would throw in the coils wired in series as well to see if there was a continued decline in spl as the impedance rised on the same clamped power. Overall great stuff though.
Yes, between parallel and series the impedance rise would be different, but with the same clamped power you won't see any difference, unless the amplifier itself does something different as a result of the impedance. That's as much as I can say without letting the cat out of the bag.
EMF Audio thanks for the reply. I’m just getting into spl in the stock 1000 class dbdrag, I appreciate the content you put up. On my off time when I’m not testing , I’m trying to be a sponge and take in as much as I can from people I think have experience and actual knowledge on the subject. Keep up the great content!
so when only wiring 1 wouldnt the 1 coil get hotter alot faster on rated watts and cause a ton of wear on it or am i wrong i know heat transfers insanely well on copper. but i wanna know the logistics behind temperatures with only 1 coil wired because i got a dvc 1ohm and my amps only 1 ohm stable pends my taramps 12k ate shit on .5 ohms immediately
Make a box like we did when this all started. It's called a death box, it's made in a way that you can mount a sub then slide one chamber into another chamber so you can change the volume of the box. You slide it till you get best output. Then you mark it and do the math or copy the dimensions and then you know exactly in the real world using real dimensions immediately. One box can be used to find the perfect size for any driver as long as you make the ends of the box big enough to mount the dtiver. Adaptors are used or multiple end caps with different sizes holes, using a different end cap makes it easier to figure the total internal volume since your keeping all demensions constant. Changing shape of boxes affects the output. Making boxes without any parallel sides defeats any standing waves. I'll stop here so you can do the research yourself
@@robertzinda9818 this is a very good piece of information, but I really want tips on competing in competitions, since this comment I have built a wind monster 6-18's on like 40k watts, I really want to win some competitions but idk what I could or could not compete in
Oh damn, Sundown built me an NS 10 v4 with a softer spider and (b/c they forgot to measure) said TS perimeters would all be the same except lower Fs, but your video makes clear more things would change. Trying to figure out how I can get TS parameters now
EMF Audio - It would great to test. The spider is way softer than standard, and me entering 25 hz Fs into WinISD made my box model much more closely to actual performance than stock Fs of 44 hz. Totally happy with the sub on passive radiators, but the specs remain a mystery. hunter callahan - I know. It’d be great!
Great videos is always and thank you for pointing that website out to go ahead and get all the apps and xs power stuff question I want to put a XS power under my GM truck but my truck takes I post what adapters do I need for any work cuz I see y'all have two types maybe three 🤔👍🏽
www.emfcaraudio.com/xs-power-551-side-post-adapter/ that would be the side post adapter you need, it works on the D and S series batteries. It will not work on the A or V series.
@@FLYGUYFOX 555 still works, just don't need the top post adapters in most cases. That's what I had in my truck and left them capped. They were out of 551's when I needed one so I got the 555. Did you order it from EMF?
Hi, great video again. But if the sub was rated 750, would you want to power the 1 coil with 750?(at least not for SPL) also, how does this apply to someone who wants to power their dvc sub with an amp on each coil? I don’t know what the original question was, but it makes me wonder if the original question was about only having limited power and trying to find a stable impedance for the amp, so you might run 1 coil. Thanks again man, great videos
I mentioned in the video that you wouldn't want to do that for more than a burp because power handling is cut in half. For using 1 coil per channel, you can absolutely do that but with one caveat. The signal going into each channel must be the same. Left and right channels in tracks can be different sometimes, so best practice is to make sure it's a mono signal being split to each channel.
@@EMFAudio Thx for that reply i was reading along to find an answer to my own issue. I have (2) DVC subs with 4ohm coils coming in the mail but i have only a 800watt output 4 channel AB amp i dont think the amp will go below the 4ohm so i needed to know if i could home run single channels to each voice coil. I have already ordered the rca splitter so channel 1-2 get same signal and 3-4get the same and will be left and right respective to the head unit and box. Wish i could afford a set of mono amps but it just isnt in the budget so i will harvest the AB 2/3/4 channel i have been lugging around for 2 decades and put it back to work. I'm sure it puts out its rated per channel as it has blown a few subs, woofers, and 6x9's in its life time. Maybe time is running out for the old amp. I got some AudioPipe TXX-BD2-10 i snagged for 200 a pair on the way and a Qbomb10tb dual 10" box with the quad triangle ports to put them into. The web says the subs are 600watt rms so i am shooting for 150watts per channel from the old tired amp and see what gives up first. Pretty sure the amp will start identifying as a space heater...
aside from the power handling dropping to half. is there any damage to the sub if you're not using full power or even close to full power? cause I have two DVC 4 ohm subs. BUT my amp gets hot running it at 2 ohms. the heat on amp dropped when using one coil
Hey EMF Audio..can you guys do a video on motor force..let's say two subs with identical soft parts but have two different motors?. One let's say rated at 1000rms with a average motor and one with monster size motor? What will be the output difference or over all quality difference? Keep up the technical videos guys. I'm learning a lot. @iInstallRVA
The motor isn't the only factor in power handling, and odds are if one was 1,000 watts and another one had a huge motor it wouldn't use the same coil so power ratings on the coil wouldn't be nearly the same either. Comparing everything the same but motors where that would work out, I could tell you what would happen but just saying it doesn't have the value as showing it. Showing it would require building 2 subs identical for no purpose other than the video.
I've been using 1 coil on my last subs from 5 months.. still was banging. When I copped my new subs is when I wired both coils. I don't do SPL just what sounds good to the ear. This is good information for those that says running 1 coils will damage your subs.. it's doesn't.. just lowers the power output.
Two things to note. If you're not in it for SPL but want good sound, use both coils. You will want all the power handling you can get, and get all the sensitivity out of the driver you can. The less sensitivity, the less definition. Secondly you should stay away from these types of subs if you want good sound. Why would you even consider running one coil when there's two? You gain nothing by doing so, and the driver was designed to use both. The driver just gets more lazy and inefficient.
ABOlsen69X At the time.. I was lazy and the sub box is mad heavy.. then here comes the winter ❄️ weather.. With these new subs I wanted to make sure that I did everything right because it’s backbreaking taking that box in and out of my ride.
ok ok this makes sense, so for example if my sub claims 800rms 1600max thats using both VCs. if i end up using just one VC that means its 400rms 800max?
In it's most crude form, yes. There are other factors too which are in the video. It's possible to take even less power because of insulation from the coil not being used, depending how the coil is wound.
Since you tested the woofer parameters with the coils in series but did the spl test with them in parallel, would there be any difference in SPL if both configurations were tested? Assuming you achieved the same wattage in both tests.. My guess is the difference would be negligible, since the amp is large enough to achieve 750 into both configurations.
I've tested that in the past and found no difference in score, some people have claimed a difference but I think that is more the effect on the amp and how it's working because they were doing things like wiring at 0.25 ohm and 1 ohm with 1 ohm being louder, while clamping the same power.
1 amp per voice coil? 1 voice coil per channel (stereo or 4ch)? Watts per db? Spl vs box size? (Wanna go loud but dont want to take alot of space) When is 4th/6th order bandpass actually beneficial
1.) Yes you can use 1 amp per coil. Absolutely recommend using identical amps. Use a DMM and match gains. To get it exact: Take leads from one coil and reverse the connection so it is out of phase. Run a test tone. Start with volume about midway. Dial one or the other amps gain until there is no movement from the cone, use your hand to feel. Keep raising volume and repeat 1 step. Continue until you get to max listening volume. If the amps have phase dial, not switch, you might have to adjust to get to that sweet spot where there isn't any cone movement Reconnect sub leads correctly. 2.) Yes you can run each coil on its own channel. If there is separate gains for each channel, you can use the same steps in [1.)] 3.) There isn't a magic number, it's subjective to numerous variables. 4.) Box size is predicated by the subs t/s parameters. Get a sub that has needed specs. This link will calculate your subs enclosure size. www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/ 5.) More of a personal choice. Also 6th orders are usually large.
@@jackmills5071 no it won't. All that it does is use the motor force from the one coil against the motor force of the other coil. We are just doing this to dial in the gains ro match them. Once you correctly adjust it, the sub will stop moving. Then hook the wiring up correctly and enjoy.
@@EMFAudio here's a question. To get 14v at all times . What step must be taken. I have a sundown SFb 5k .It said it is a 14v amp not sure what that means. Plz send link to video if there is 1
YES! You can do that, however, it is very critical that the input signal be exactly the same. Even if the sub output is summed mono from the HU I have seen different voltages from each output before. If it's not summed, you'd want to use a splitter from 1 to 2 going into the amp.
can I use single sub with 2ohm? since it sounds better in my case idk why... when I wired 1ohm before it distorts a lot of clipping now with 2ohm sounds clearer?
Hey man I have a question. So I have two skar sdr 15s on a Orion xtr 2500. I’ve noticed recently that when I have my subs playing full tilt they almost shut off. I know I have sufficient power. I have a extra battery and a 250 amp alt on but it’s almost like the subs go into protect and stop working until I turn it back down. I started the big three yesterday but this has been going on for a little while. I’ve only ran a positive from the battery to the alt and I’ve not run a ground from the motor or battery just yet. Do you have any ideas as to what’s happening I know my amp is capable of stupid amounts of power. I appreciate it 💪🏻
Do you have a volt meter reading at the amp? That could give you a baseline for what's happening, then look at solutions. FYI, subs don't go into protect, amps do. It's possible you're making the subs reach a point in excursion which trigger the amp shutting off though, because they're jumping the gap or going sideways.
That's exactly what a dual voice coil speaker was made to do! They were invented as a way to flatten the unruly old subs response. Before EQs were invented they used notch filters to isolate the frequency with the peak running in reverse polarity. Once EQs came out Dual voice coils were were no longer needed. Then someone sees that old patent and makes a similar sub but uses both in same polarity, once again proving very few new things are ever really new. Things haven't changed much since 1930. Most new patents are bought up by big companies like GE who sits on it just to make sure that idea is never made, allowing them to continue making the same thing they already makibg with huge profits, only changing over to the hiding patent items when they see other companies developing a similar idea. Then we think it's brand new but in reality they're slowing advancement for their own profit. Look into old patents snd you'll see all kinds of new tech that is actually old news to those in the know.
@@EMFAudio so i can guess that a dvc sub was intended to be ran on both coils right even though it will run on one coil as long as the power is cut in half of its total rated ..?? And by running one coil its only pushing half its total output .. just like a svc sub rated at 500w rms and you only give it 250w rms ..
I got a 12" type r for free from a coworker.. One coil reads 2ohm, the other 0. What are the chances that only 1 coil is blown vs just disconnected internally? Can a sub with 1 blown coil still sound "ok"
So Wait You Put 750 To One Coil. Doesn't That Mean You Over Powered That Coil? That's Means You Can't Play as Long At 750Watts One One Coil Than 750 On Two Coils Right?
EMF Audio I watched yours and the sundown vid and the barevids box rise and it made me want to run my e series 12 at 4 times rated power for competition and some serious daily bump however I do still turn it down a bit to ensure I never clip
Now ... What about 1 channel or 1 amp by coil ? Dual amp on 1 sub not strapped together or a stereo amp having a channel on each coil of the sub ... Any comments ? A video maybe ? ... Thank you ...
Have any videos on subsonic filters? What they do and how they work? I’ve never really messed with them too much other than if I move it a certain way I get less bass🤷🏽♂️ also slope on head-units? Thanks!
My friends DD 612 was connected only on one voice coil by mistake. When I opened box after few months I realised that mistake. Will there be any permanent damage on this sub?
First off, have you tested any dual 2 ohm drivers against the same makers single 4 ohm version of the same driver, I think sn important aspect to test would be heat generated I the gap since that's what kills most speakers unless they have fused tinsel leads like CV HED subs. The other thing I need to ask is how many know when the dual voice coil was invented and why it was invented? Subs first appeared in movie theaters once sound was added to movies. The subs they had back in the 1930s were not well behaved and had huge peaks at certain levels that they (at that time) no way to flatten the response. There were no EQs, so they added the second coil to act as a way to correct the response by running a reverse polarity signal at those frequencies that had the big peaks. This was probably done by using complex passive notch crossovers and resistors to get the signal dialed in as close as possible. This is just one more example of how most things we deal with today are far from bring new ideas
Bro... my amplifier produces 4 ohm in bridged mode and the subwoofer is dual voice coil 4 ohm each, so it is okey to connect only one voice coil... right ? Kindly pay attention to my problem...
@@jamesg8246 RMS ratings are a power over time. A brief amount of power won't generate enough heat to kill it. From that aspect given no mechanical limitations, you can play 5,000 watts on them fine, briefly.
No idea, I know the whole sub weighs about 32-34 lbs. Have you ever noticed that the best subs don't list a magnet weight as a spec? There is a reason for that.
Looks can be deceiving, some put large plastic boots on them or extend the basket around the motor to make them look bigger than they are. The SA-15 is genuine in it's size though, the rubber boot just goes over the magnet.
EMF Audio yeah that i know, Some companies do everything for a profit. was thinking of buying a digital designs redline 615, but this sundown sa-15 looks also a great sub
Is wiring a svc and a dvc sub with same rms. And size say 12''okay pple say '' its okay its the final ohmrage that matters but i think that x_max matters i read that dvc have lower x max than svc and air moved by cone=bass=(x_max*cone area) ellaborate this please
@@EMFAudio I got two subs like that and I can't tell the difference when I replace them with two that match both sound good and both still hit 147db and there junk kicker comp
you will get higher spl numbers at higher frequencies. this sub peaks at 60Hz so he tested it at 60Hz. Most people don't tune boxes to 60Hz except for SPL competitions. Getting 140db at 30Hz is going to be a lot tougher than at 60Hz.
Great video is it possible for you to tell me what the price is on those SUPER BEEFY MERICA 12K AMPS if and when you have the time if u can thank you i appreciate it if not i understand thanks anyway (✌🏼💪🏼🔈💪🏼🔉💪🏼🔊)
