Hello lovely viewers - I'm back with more L322 content. I've got a lot of new stuff lined up over the next few weeks. Don't forget to check out AUTODOC's app: bit.ly/3UUz481 and use code SAM for 5% off your order. Cheers!
I wish you had a gasoline engine. We don't have the L322 with diesel motors in the US (wish we did). With that said, I'm glad your back. I'm looking forward to your future content. They're always interesting and informative. Thanks for doing them.
I adore the TDV8 but I'd also love to try out a 5.0 SC at some point. They do exist here but they're a fair bit rarer than the diesels. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated :)
Your Range Rover it’s better than a new one with so much effort that you put in it . Maybe one day I ll get one v8 diesel but at the moment I m good with my td6 .
I took of the EGR valve, and made two aluminium gaskets about one millimetre thick using the EGR as a template, I then put the whole lot back together, with some gasket cement, and effectively blocked off the EGR valve with the two aluminium plates, which did not have the big hole in the middle of them. I put everything back together, and started the engine, which not only ran perfectly, but after a hundred or so miles on the road, I realised that my diesel consumption had improved from around 18-19 miles per gallon, to almost thirty miles per gallon. I have since then covered around twenty thousand trouble free miles, with no problems, having effectively blocked off the EGR valve.
@@Phantom-mk4kp yer right,stop spreading lies,you work for car companies.who cares on the mpg it’s nothing,people don’t be gas lighted??ask these questions does the government and the car companies what your car to last???do they won’t you to have your own car??? They want to destroy your rights and freedoms
I can happily report that I did the exact same thing with the exact same results. Had the egr deactivated via software for about a year but finally blocking it technically made a huge difference in many ways. Seemingly imy egr was stuck open or something as the engine now has got much more power/boost with light throttle. Where did you block yours? I just put in a plate in the flange before the final elbow that goes into the donut.
@@vb879dr Thanks for your response, and I am glad that it worked for you too. I blanked off the egr on inlet and outlet side, and capped off the vacuum pipe. It's better than ever right now.
I got the errors "EGR throughput too low" then I switched to Aral Ultimate Diesel and the problems are gone. Ultimate is somewhat costy, but it cleans the engine and eliminates the carbon. Highly recommended. Cheers, Chris
Whenever you do a full strip & rebuild of your TDV8, I'd say ultrasonic clean everything, not everyone will be able to do that at home, but you should be able to rescue and reuse many parts with the sacrifice being your time and use of your Range Rover. Get your emissions control devices cleaned, even if you still bypass them you'll be carrying less weight. And fit diesel catch cans, if you do decide to reuse your egr and dpf.
Two things Sam, Christian of LR Time fame advocates the 5W-40 oil too! So you are in good company. Second, have a Google re cracked walnuts to clean the inlet manifold in situ. I tried it and it cleaned them perfectly without taking the inlet manifold off. And oh yes, short journeys kils fossil fuel engines, get an old Nissan Leaf for those short journeys and you won't look back! There is no need to worry about battery range as you only use it for those short journeys, together with a home charger at night time rates, it ticks all the boxes!
Had the inlet off my Dad's BMW 120D to replace the glow plugs, really surprised the thing could run, there was so much shit and sludge in there that the swirl flaps wouldn't operate and just enough room to stick a pencil in the inlet. Cleaned it all out and it's a different car, with no more black smoke when you boot it. As with yours, it's a good job done. EGR's went walkies (mapped out % deleted) on mine as soon as I got it, never had any issues.
@@JohnBaxendale mine is not fitted with a dpf, so don’t have that to worry about. As for the egrs and the control technique, it’s been through two tests since having them done and it’s passed both times without issue. They are both still on the car, and if inspected still look hooked up, they are physically deleted with a blanking kit and removed from the ecu map. Emissions are super clean at every test.
100% on the 5W40. I use this (Mobile 1 or Liqui Moly) in my ML350 BlueTec. I also add an oil additive called TurboMaxx. The guy has a channel with interesting tests. As an engineer you will also find this interesting. If only we could get the RR 4.4TDV8 here in Canada.
19:28 This is oil caking with soot. You should replace your oil separator. The soot from exhaust/EGR is dry normally. The oil vapor from crankcase is what doing it mudy.
Intake cleaning is mostly ‘cosmetic’ as there is still plenty of flow capacity for a diesel to run at full power. Look at the cross section area of the throttle intake then divide by 4 to see how much each intake on the valve cover would need to be blocked to restrict overall flow. The important bits on these 4.4’s you have covered - leaks, MAP sensor fouling ( clean every month) and throttle plate cleaning ( excessive fouling and loss of movement can strip the internal gear teeth). Oil changes in the 5-7k mile interval are also wise as the factory interval is way too long and older higher milers with ash clogged / reduced soot capacity DPF’s will regen more frequently leading to possible oil dilution issues.
Yep, concur with all of that. My DPF is no longer an issue, but before I had it “fixed” it was attempting regen nearly every journey due to high ash load.
Glad to see you back! So, now to the news you didn't ask for 😁 Since the last video I've managed to get a hold of a 4.2 SC 2007 RR, to try the Rangie life out. Been a pretty big pile of repairs right away (luckily for me I did prepare and had some extra "fixing" money). But the experience is brilliant, despite it still being bugged with all kinds of minor issues. Nonetheless, there is a turnoff and that is (suprise surprise) MPG. I'm living in a big city and my current best is just shy under 14 MPG I think 😅(it's about 11 on a bad day). Anyway, why I am telling you all this - is that I'm intending to sell my 4.2 (which will probably go badly since I've grown attached to it already) and try to find a 4.4 TDV8 one. Going to be substantially heavier on the pocket but it's also a final facelift so a bunch of extra goodies are included, apart from better MPG, naturally. Really not sure how it will all play out, but you video reminded me of those plans and now I'm closer to trying it out. Sorry for a rant. Keep up the good work, and no pressure, but I'm gonna be waiting for more awesome content 😁
Cool vid. Love the 80's synth pop haha! Might be worth you just blanking the EGR completely and venting the PCV to atmosphere or using a quality catch can. Legalities observed of course! I did the same on my D2 Td5 and it runs like a Swiss watch. I removed and cleaned out the alloy intake manifold twice, post EGR 'surgery', and just sloshed around a whole can of degreaser inside, worked a treat. Removing those restrictions on the intake and output of a diesel and shedding weight from the vehicle are the best free performance mods you can do IMHO.
Cheers for the comment! The PCV on the TDV8 is a bit of a pain to access, it’s situated in the “vee” of the engine underneath the EGR valve which is underneath the oil cooler. I’m not sure how it operates or what it even looks like, but I presume from its position that it vents directly into the head/inlet manifold rather than further back in the system. I think the oil in the charge air system is coming from the turbos, and probably mostly from the secondary turbo which is only used when you boot it over ~2k rpm which isn’t very often. I’ve not had a Td5 for a long time but the biggest gains I got were from deleting the EGR and cat 👌🏻
I blanked off the EGR’s on my 3.6 TDV8, & the EGR on 4.4. Once I had done the 3.6, I found that my oil, I always use Edge Professional, retained far more viscosity. I always used to change it at 2.5K & it used to be black as the ace of spades. Once the EGR’s were taken out of the equation, after the first change, at 2.5K the oil would be an off grey, and to be honest it would have been fine. No one will ever convince me that an EGR, is a good thing. They’re not. They do bugger all for the longevity of an engine, so where’s the “good for the environment” in that?? Next thing will be to put a core drill straight through the DPF!! Bloody tree huggers do my brains in! Great Video!!
Hi Sam, Another great video. Just thought I'd share my experiences with my 2012 44TDV8. I have done many of the jobs you have promelgated, but prior to your releasing them. Mine has 220,000km on it now. I didn't clean the inlet doughnut (which looked like yours) because I saw what was in the rocker covers (inlet manifolds). My car DOES have dpfs, so we are in the same boat as you- perhaps this is because mine is a 2012. The biggest issue I have with my vehicle is how doughy the throttle is off idle. Despite all the sensor, throttle body, cleaning and replacements, its as doughy as when I first bought it used, with 92,000km. Im not really interested in chips and upgrades, as I regularly tow, and notes that the 8speed auto is near its design limit technically, in stock tune. Despite this, my car goes like stink, even when towing a 2.8T van. I love it! When I took my doughnut off( around 4yrs ago), I replaced the belts and pulleys, every coolant hose in the engine bay and heater, thermostat housing complete, and every plastic water fitting. Our high ambient temps, and my want of no break downs warranted this. I have enjoyed remarkable reliability. I have to replace the pelter in the drivers seat to warm my arse for the coming winter, but cant fond a reasonably priced part yet. What I would really like, is to be able to turn off traction controll when on slippery muddy slopes. Any ideas?
Ok, I did not see the whole video, but mine is a 2008 3.6 TDV8. I have blocket the EGR-valves and removed them from the computer (can't get any fault messages there) and removed the the particle filters (using a long drill first, then a long chisel and a hammer) and also removing it from the computer. I had to hire a guy to do the computer stuff. The car had then done 260 000 kilometers. Fuel consumption went down a least 30%. Everything look original. I can get 26+ MPG. They say I can tune it and even get more, but I am not sure if I want to. But I love the car. Edit: If you do the particle filters yourself, get a GOOD mask, the dust in there is not good for your health. !!
I was starting to get l322 content withdrawals symptoms Sam 😰🤣 thank god you saved me 😉🤣🤣 as for the 5w40 I started using that in my td6 the second year of ownership and you know how tractor they sound but I found that switching from 5w30 to 5w40 made it much more quite and it seem to run better and I use triple qx 5w40 it’s a cheaper oil but I’ve had no problems with it at all td6 on 146,000 and running spot on anyway glad to see you back in the hot seat bud keep up the good work 👏
Thanks for another awesome video! I was glad to hear and see that you prefer the vacuum method of removing oil. It makes the process so much easier and cleaner.
A new video was a nice surprise today. I had to have the EGRs replaced on my old TDV8 3.6 (here in Germany blanking is illegal). The EMS in the 4.4 is supposed to lube the EGRs with engine oil to prevent them clogging up (one of the reliability improvements over the 3.6) so it's a bit worrying to see it in that state. Mine's just hit 200000km so its still little way off your mileage but I hope I never have to do this on mine 😄
LOL @ donut now being half the weight of the pre clean condition. A good method of cleaning could be to use cork bungs to keep in the degreaser of choice, you could block up all holes and shake the unit to try and cut down on the scrubbing. My idea comes from DPF cleaning methods.
Great content, even though I drive a Disco 4. Looking at the coking of your donut and associated parts. Have you ever investigated Terraclean? It is a service where they run your engine on a high octane fuel to help clean out crap and build up. Worth a look and they might even sponsor a video. Great content and keep it coming.
I thought about something like this - but I can’t think how it can clean that amount of gunk away without making it all go through the inlet/valves and causing havoc.
You can just about get the inlet manifolds off without dropping the engine, when my left side manifold split they managed to loosen the engine bolts and pull it forward with enough to get the injector out.
I apologize for my English. On my tdv8, the piston burned out at 100000km and the catalyst began to collapse. The dust from the catalyst flew through the egr into the cylinders. A step was formed in the cylinders. As a result, it was necessary to sleeve the engine (. The EGR was silenced, the catalysts were removed, and a chip was made
Your English is perfect. That sounds like a horrible sequence of events! I’m amazed that the catalyst material managed to make it through the EGR - that’s impressive!
@@SamsMotors I'm from Russia. We have a very bad diesel engine. There is a large amount of sulfur in it and because of it all the problems with dpf filters and catalysts. We are a big gas station, but with lame fuel ((. Almost all our cars from euro 4-6 are being converted to euro 0 or 2. Now I will deal with the removal of all environmental systems on my Ford 6.4D. And thanks for the video with the generator, he helped me replace his belt))
Great video, Sam. Cleaned my inlet earlier this week, but not as comprehensively as you've had to do here, and the improvement was instantly noticeable. Worried about that boost coupling now though .. it isn't a very reassuring fit. I'll look at it again.
Sam is back with the L322, this is worth a watch on the 65" screen, lovely jubbly as Del boy would say. Now why do I think my wallet is going to be hurt?? LOL...
@@SamsMotorsonly £40 for spanners and brushes. Have you tried cataclean? I used some a few weeks ago and it does seem to have improved the lying on screen MPG. Great vid as always. Cheers
Great video 👍 I used mr muscle oven cleaner and a home radiator brush for cleaning the doughnut. You didn’t investigate the oil leak down the bellhousing? Or did I miss it?
@@SamsMotorsThis is my dilemma. I have just bought a 2012 4.4 diesel but I cannot find any 5W40 C1. Now I can't decide whether C2/3/4 would substitute. Thanks for the videos and your channel.
Hi Sam good to see you again..yes we are lucky here in Aus to not have the DPF…..where did u get the remap to turn off the EGR?….I dont know of anyone here in Aus that do them on the 4.4TDV8…on the 3.6 yes they do it..Great video..I think. Next you will be doing your oil cooler looking at the oil at the back of the bell housing..I have just had mine done so happy days..for now😁
Is my comment accurate about Australia 🇦🇺 standard oil for them being 5w40? I thought it was but have read some other sources that contradict it. Mine was done via a Celtic Tuning agent in Ireland. They’re a big company that has agents all over the UK and Europe but not sure if they’re in Australia. No reason to keep it especially if you don’t have a DPF.
@@SamsMotors Hi yes no DPF but 5 W 30 still preferred..I will be using 5 W 40 on my next change…there is a discussion on the AULRO forum L322 site at this moment re the oil viscosity..one member has actually monitoring his oil pressure and is trying both oils..its good reading his findings! F
I blanked both egr on my 2008 Disco 3 and the butterfly valve and changed to 5W40 and the engine definitely ran quieter than it did on 5W dumb ass (😉). I’ll be picking up a 2016 Disco 4 with 210k Kms on it and will be running 5W 40 in future in it.
Hi mate we have a problem of fuel bleeding..The fuel from the filter doesnt enter to the fuel high pressure pump..What maybe the cause..Thanks for your advice
Diesel trick for carbon build up cleaning is great, I just thought you could use sort of a rubble bag to put parts in, then maybe gaffer tape around a few places and fill it with diesel. It may save you some diesel and it will cover the part fully, which is more important. Keep it in container, might as well. I do not have any Land Rover atm, but by the time I get one I must be well informed. Have you ever considered blusting walnut powder into intakes to clean up the engine, what is your position about this?
Yeah bagging it up with diesel would have worked quite well! I’m very wary of any cleaning method that will loosen or disturb the sludge while the manifolds are on the engine. I can’t see how all of that going through the engine wouldn’t hurt valves, injector nozzles, or something else. So I’d rather wait and do it all properly in the future 👍
Hi mate , you really shouldn’t have oil in the inlet from the intercooler, means intercooler is filling with oil from your turbos . New/ recon turbos and new intercooler , you can never flush a intercooler properly.
Hi Sam, thanks for the video, a few jobs for me to do there! I have the same turbo flutter when turning off my 4.4 TDV8, is it anything to be concerned about?
@SamsMotors hopefully not, the Facebook page is saying turbo issue etc, no code though so will live with it. Might look into some "modifications" myself
Have you removed the dpf or had it modified. As removal would constitute a mot fail as no part of the emission reducing equipment can be removed. Mot tester will be told to do visual inspection and electronic scan to make sure equipment is there. So just wondering what your fix was around dpf. As for the oil total on board 0w 40 diesel fully synthetic is much better. Than 5 w30 .
Should you really be using metal wire brushes on the inside of a plastic manifold? Scratches can cause airflow disruption and yes what you have done is a massive improvement on the build up within... But still?? Love the content you do and keep up the fab work...
I don't think a few hairline scratches are going to be of any consequence at all vs. 3/4" of sludge. It's a big forced induction diesel engine after all, not an F1 engine!
Dangerous talking about oil...it causes so many discussions as to right and wrong. Best rule is to change it regularly, every 5k and you won't have any issues.
Cleaning the inlet ports and plenum in my 97 Mercedes turbodiesel was really depressing, the EGR stuff is incredibly tacky and gross. I ended up pressure washing it...
An oil catch can can and will help with any oil buildup within the inlet. In truth, for those who wish to keep their EGRs, a catch can is essential to remove the risk of build up caused by the oil and carbon vapor... Its also a cheap solution but make sure a Diesel one is purchased rather than a petrol one...
My 04 l322 shows air sup inactive i have done the steering left to right but no good any advice what else to do or try please as it sat on its wheels at moment
Great video as usual. Just for the craic, I have a justified hatred of changing the belts or pulleys. However I did manage to do the last couple without removing fan shroud or lower trays etc. Just top charge air pipes and one or two coolant and induction pipe. and the two airboxes.. Cranked fan off and just moved it out of my may enough to access pulley bolts and tensioners. Changed both belts in 2 hrs... Fair bit of potty mouth and a litre of blood but its doable. Anyway maybe helps someone.
but using a thicker oil surly will make the oil pump work even harder meaning first start of the day means taking longer for the oil to do a full circulate of the engine. and in freezing cold temps will take even longer, BUT yes being a thicker oil at running temp will be a tiny bit more lubricated.
I really enjoyed watching this video, thank you. We did a belt change on my 4.4 tdv8, in my father in laws workshop, on a 2 post lift last month, without removing the fan.. it was interesting to see how much easier it would have been if we had taken the fan out like you did. Time wise I don't know if it would have been quicker, maybe - it took us about 8 hours. At least 2 of those hours were messing with the bolts on that rigid water pipe, that we needed to move, even though we didn't detach it. It was also interesting to see your work cleaning the doughnut. I took my egr elbow pipe out this week, and was horrified to see how much gunk there was on it. Of the 8 holes in the elbow that let the nastyness into the engine, only 1 was still working. No wonder I was getting insufficient egr flow errors. I also suffer at the moment from a dpf that fills too quickly in my opinion. This issue I hope to go away shortly, like yours did.
I'd be interested to see how you get on with the ELF 5w40 oil. The Evolution 900 SXR 5w30 mentions use in turbocharged diesels and meets the WSS-M2C913 spec for the TDV8, but the 5w40 only mentions naturally aspirated diesels and doesn't mention meeting that spec. An old mechanic friend of mine mentioned that some oils struggle with the turbos on the TDV8 and it leads to premature turbo death, so I don't know what to believe! I would prefer the 'smoother' sound of the 5w40 though if I can get away with it...!
I was starting to get l322 content withdrawals symptoms Sam 😰🤣 thank god you saved me 😉🤣🤣 as for the 5w40 I started using that in my td6 the second year of ownership and you know how tractor they sound but I found that switching from 5w30 to 5w40 made it much more quite and it seem to run better and I use triple qx 5w40 it’s a cheaper oil but I’ve had no problems with it at all td6 on 146,000 and running spot on anyway glad to see you back in the hot seat bud keep up the good work 👏
@@pug2052 depends how many miles you have on the engine mine has very low miles for its age and 10w40 is for very high mileage vehicles with very worn engine components
@@pug2052 it actually says in the owners manual for U.K. temperatures to use 5w30 in the td6 when the car is new but now it has miles on it It makes more sense to use a slightly thicker oil hence why I’m using 5w40 but it also does say in the manually you can use 10w40 too I guess it’s up to you I went by my cars service history and it had been using the manufactures recommended 5w30 up until my purchase and I changed to 5w40 and noticed it was running much smoother and quieter so stuck with that but each to there own I guess
Mine has done 200k but is not worn by any stretch the turbo is original and not leaking any oil the engine never smokes apart from a small diesely puff when it starts the oil has always been changed every 6k miles though should I switch to 5w40 would you say or carry on with 10w40
@@pug2052 it’s up to you , but if it’s been running on 10w40 all it’s life and no probs then why change ? But trying it won’t harm your engine because these engines can take between 5w30 up 10w40 I only moved up to a slightly thicker oil to make engine a bit quieter if you move back down to 5w40 your engine will probs run better but may sound louder but like I say it’s up to you , you won’t know till you try it 🤷♂️
Brill vid, some interesting points the inlet manifold `clean` is best job I did on my L322...MPG up from low 20`s to 27ish+ !! Wondering whether to do EGR as on Facebuk 4rum some say best not to do ?? ...
Could I just ask if the link you posted for the spanners are the same ones you used on the RR? This is just in case the seller has changed the product since you posted the video. Cheers
Hi Sam, the belt damage is probably due to oil. Oil damages the compound and makes it wear faster. With the oil leaks you have it doesn't surprise me that the belt didn't last long.
Hurray, you're back! Two things, with the belt, do check the tensioner! On the td5 they seem to go between the arm and baseplate witch throw them out of line. Second, where did that oil come frome? Not the oilcooler or the oilfeed pipe to turbo!? 😮 My wallet is getting scared... keep them coming! Thanks!
I have the same vehicle and periodically get various odd symptoms. The belt squeals under low speed acceleration on occasions and the battery is regularly reporting as low charge even though I put a new battery in. I also get periodic electronic gremlins esp on the entertainment unit which seems to trip out.
When you give the engine proper going over you may as well take the heads of to regrind the valves none of them will probably be a good seal on account of lumps of that gunk being deposited on the valve seat's plus you'll be able to give the inlet ports a proper clean i stipped down a TD5 engine every valve seat leaked and you could see where gunk had been on the seats
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
