This is for all of you who cannot understand an explanation but would rather focus on this so called REAL OCC LOL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rMzFMcHrAyU.html
If you are concerned about restrictions, use larger diameter hose and get a catch can without a filter. A pair of baffles-only 750ml aluminum OCCs in parallel adds essentially no restriction while providing lots of aluminum surface area to shed heat. And with 1.5 liters of capacity, emptying them at oil changes will surely be plenty.
The air is flowing at 90 PSI through your compressor hose. Typical crank case pressure is 2 to 6 PSI. The air going through a compressor is room temp, or outside temp. The air running through the hoses on an engine are closer to the operating temp of the engine. Those are huge differences, and is why your video does not properly address why OCC are important. OCC's can cause issues if they increase crank case pressure. However, that is only if they contain fine filters that trap any debris, then the filter clogs a little bit, thus creating more pressure than the system is designed to handle. Another reason OCC's can cause an issue, is if it's not drained periodically. There are many videos of people catching oil and water in their OCC's and dumping it between oil changes. Oil, dirt, and lots of water are typically present. If it doesn't create more pressure on the OEM system, removes water and small particles from the system, then I don't see why it's a bad part to install.
If you are destroying your engine with a oil catch can then none of you are doing your catch can correctly. The air slows down not cause of the line or anything like that. The air slows down cause of the large volume of the can and then is sucked right back out at the same speed. A water separator is not the same as a oil catch can. A oil catch can is having air pushed in one side and sucked out the other side. A water separator is only forcing air through. So again if your engine is damaged from a catch can, then you installed it wrong.
Exactly, the thing is to have as small hose length as possible, and I use just stainless dishwasher ball, these are letting the flow to pass, and still sepaeate the oil. In 3000km it collected about 300g of pure oil.
@@2WheelDerness why would the can catch oil and let air with gas pass? Wouldn't gas cause problems just like oil does? And if so, why don't we just cancel the whole thing and let the engine sucks fresh air instead?
@@ajsh3000 well, main issue is that this oil with air from engine case (needs to eject the expansion gas) is injected back to the intake and in combination with the carbon from egr makes a paste which close the intake and build on the valves, piston and rings. By getting rid of oil, the exhaust carbon dus have no adhesion substance and will just get to combustion chamber than ejected. Just blocking the vent will create lots of gaskets issue. Leaving the hose in open air will work but create fumes that polute, and also some of them will get back to the car interior and is bad to inhale them.
@@ajsh3000the pcv and occ are not only about separation. On modern cars the gases also enrich the air when it is recycled back into the mix lowering temps and increasing mpg. What the poster does not realize is most modern day cars have a restriction inline with this. With a catch can you are suppose to remove the pcv valve to have free flow and use correct lines that allow short distances with no compromises to the flow. Most modern cars mainly turbo charged do this
Great presentation! But I disagree with one minor detail. The OCC works great if used properly by not using the bronze filter. The filter is a micron filter and easily clogs with oil passing through thus restricting air flow. My remedy was to install steel wool with a down draft tube at the bottom. stainless steel scrubber flows alot more air while still maintaining the "catch" effect.
That bronze filter clogged up on mine too and caused my valve cover and Vanos gasket to start leaking. I was suspicious about that filter the day I purchased it
i actually tried this on my hilux diesel engine d4d, i had a provent occ installed, when i lifted the dipstick a lot of smoke was coming out and a little oil, when i remove the occ and put the stock hose back on there was no more smoke. i also tried it on my suzuki celerio gas with an occ the same with the one you use on the other video, it doesnt have a brass filter inside, there was no oil/smoke coming out as a lifted the dipstick during idle but when i ask someone to rev the engine oil begun to come out, i tried it without occ and oil did not come out anymore idle or rev. i think its true that the occ really hinders the flow of blowby out the engine. good thing i just had it installed less than a month, i will cut my losses and just put the stock hoses back on. thank you very much for an informative video.
Try it with an OCC that’s made for the vehicle, not one that’s made for High Pressure Air. If you use one that is set up for proper air flow and pressure, you won’t have any issues. If you get a cheap one that’s just using basic media, then it’s probably not going to work and do as you described above.
Great info. It settled the decision for me and tied a couple things together. When oil is blowing up a dipstick, it is a likely clue that your PCV valve is becoming clogged. A dipstick that blows off its seat is a sign that there’s an extremely restricted flow like a stuck closed or near fully clogged PCV valve.
The problem is he used a small “catch can”. When you use a properly sized and designed one you wont have these issues. And if what he is saying is true then why not put the port to the crank case instead of the valve cover where there is a restriction to the crank case. He most likely created this video just to get views and not to be accurate. Scotty Kilmer is another one to be careful with. Hes got millions of subscriber but no acknowledgment in the car community.
@@pazsion NO they don't. Diesels have NO intake vacuum operate to a PCV valve. Diesels have CDR valves or nothing at all... You clearly have NO CLUE what you are talking about..
It is true for a diesel engine, but I find it very useful for a gasoline engine, especially one that works on direct injection of gasoline. I noticed after installing an oil catch that the black color disappeared in the exhaust, but before installing it, there was a permanent black color in the exhaust. I think installing an oil catch is important for the engine that works on direct injection for gasoline.
@@NASER725 thanks! I think the same of you, every GDI Engine need this. In my case, I have some bad emissions in the Exhaust and I think a OCC will work because the Engine Will has a extra gases filter.
Two things, you have diesel engine and second the bronze filter is known to cause issues. I say on direct injection naturally aspirated engine the catch can is must.
Thanks for the video. I had tried OCC and air separator on my diesel MB and GDI Hyundai. They both are different on air flow restrictions. The air separator shall not use on car engine. Blows gaskets! Using a quality with big flow OCC works for my diesel and GDI.
Thanks for that information. I had an occ, but experienced a flat spot in acceleration. It recently unwound the pot due to vibration and I lost it on the highway. To prevent oil spitting on my exhaust and unfiltered air being sucked into my intake, I bypassed what was left of the occ. The flat spot is gone and my engine feels more responsive. After seeing this video, I’m not replacing the occ! Thanks heaps 😄👍🏼
In any improvement you do there are always tradeoffs. Increase oil crank pressure is the negative of OCC, but it can be negated by keeping the screen clean and draining everytime you do an oil change. Toyota has managed very well with oil seperators that not just take out the oil but then have the extra pressure of putting it back into the pressured crank. Drag and circle track racers often use vacuum pumps on chevy v8's to reduce oil crank pressure, because they can gain a few more horsepower with negative pressure. The benefits to not putting the oil vapor gunk back into the engine through the intake are huge and are more than carbon buildup on the back of the valves (which is really bad in its self). Other benefits are increase octane, cleaner engine all through the intake, valve body, longer life of the catalytic converter, etc.
Very interesting. Great demonstration to prove the point. At a surface level, one would think the air intake would be enough and it should be able to vent without a return, but your video shows exactly what you are saying.
Haha I knew I wasn’t crazy !! I have too one of these replica mishimoto oil catch cans that contain the broNze filter which didn’t take long to clog. I started to notice a lot of leaking around my can and also leaking around my valve cover and Vanos gasket. Glad I noticed it quickly and remove the bronze filter and now the oil leaking around my valve cover has stopped. I’m considering just venting to atmosphere using a differnt can
Huli ko na to na panood. Masyado rin akong nag paniwala sa iba, na dala rin ako don sa oil na nacocollect kala ko i kakabuti sa makina, nung ni install ko last year occ ko walang talsik sa dipstick nung wala pa occ, ngayon meron na kahit, kahit binalik ko na sa dating hose may talsik na.
You should watch reputable mechanic vloggers not this uneducated frustrated mechanic/engineer 😂 watch Scotty KILMER and other respectable mechanic vloggers instead of watching this wanna be. 😂
I had Provent 200 installed on my 2016 Everest 3.2L on year 2018, never had problem ever since. But, recently I have encountered the strange loud humming sound during low speed acceleration, sounds like a modified exhaust pipe blowing, or the subwoofer playing the 40Hz tone, the whole cabin can feel the vibration. The issue was intermittent, my initial thought was the EGR system, dirty or EGR value malfunction... Ran the Forscan, no any code found and everything was fine. So I went to clean the EGR, Intake Manifold, Throttle, thanks to the OCC, the EGR system had little carbon, but it was dry. After assemble the everything back, I expect the loud humming sound would be gone, unfortunately, the noise was still there. I suddenly recall that I had OCC installed and I might as well to check if the oil can is full, or the filter is blocking the blowby gas, becoz the filter is almost 5 years old. The next day, I removed the OCC filter and decided to give it a try, Vola~ the engine humming sound was gone, everything sounded normal again. This video explanation make sense, OCC can alter engine performance, or do damage to the engine, especially with those cheaper OCC. For me, I will just bypass OCC for now, since the new filter is too expensive, I would rather clean EGR system once a year.
In addition to Provent it has bigger tubes which is 25mm compare to other OCC in the market that is why is does not have restriction when it comes to blow by gases
You forgot to mention that on a diesel there is no vacuum in the intake. I have not seen any butterfly flaps on that intake system. And most diesels have no PCV valve. they just have a tube out of the headcover. It's always at atmospheric pressure so the catch can setup needs to be changed. The OCC setup with baffles and the filter inside is used on most gas cars that have Vacuum in the intake and it works great there cause it's being drawn out. Most diesel engines have no vacuum in the intake and use the OCC setup with baffels, ehich then is usually vented to open atmosphere through an outside open filter or intake without internal filter cause it is being pushed out with a positive pressure in the crank case. For a diesel we usually use a bigger catch can or larger diameter path ways so the air slows down but the volume is the same
How about having a suction pump to compensate the loss of speed of suction together with the OCC. So when they sell any OCC product, it must be sold with a suction pump .
Ohhh this made me convinced more. This is the explanation why it will just affect much engine life. Didnt read any comments explains why.. thanks much sir. Appreciated much.
This is why you don't run a cheap catch can with one of those silly bronze filter things. Proper catch cans use baffles, or centrifugal force, to force oil droplets to collect on surfaces inside the catch can without impeding the airflow that much. Also, that engine has a lot of blowby...
I have tried a mishimoto occ on two of my gasoline engined cars and Ive noticed that when i rev my cars hard , the catch can does catch a lot of oil but it also causes a leak at my oil filter gasket. I figured that the blow by gases arent venting out as efficiently and its pressurizing the crankcase . Thanks for the eye opener , shall un- install the catch cans from my cars
What is most often misunderstood is that an oil catch can does act the same way as an air compressor water separator. The effect is the same. Vacuum has to be reduced in the line for the separation to take place. Also, the added hose length and canister volume reduces vacuum evacuation of the crankcase. Reduced vacuum evacuation of the crankcase is harmful to the engine. Repairing the engine's bottom end is more costly and labor intensive than cleaning the upper intake system. Also, using a good Dexos approved synthetic oil will help keep carbon deposits in suspension and prevent them from clinging onto internal engine components. 3-5000 mile oil changes will help too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FW0wCl-O7oY.html
@@cometcal2 The demonstration in the video is misleading because the water separator is a much greater constriction compared to a catch can. I'm not certain how significant a role intake manifold vacuum plays in evacuating pressure from the crankcase. The only way to be sure is to redo the demonstration with a actual OCC to see if the difference in blowby at the dipstick port is as great as was shown in this video
vacuum should be unchanged in a sealed system. It may move faster to the larger space, but within no time it should balance out upon start up. I'd say it works more like a baffle on a suppressor. There's no large change as long as there's not a lot of baffles and the trip is short and low velosity. 45 vs 223 for instance. Power not rpms...in the engine world. This is just not a significant barrier, but it'll work like a cooling tower and allow gases to cool, carbon and heavier liquids drop while the gases continue. I'm thinking out loud here so I hope this makes sense.
That's a cheap OCC set up on a diesel engine. A good quality OCC comes with connections and hoses made for the specific vehicle application, and it does NOT restrict flow. If you bothered to read the manufacturers data sheets and independent testing, you would know that.
Filter inside OCC will increase the resistance and slowing down the breather airflow, i recommend you to instal 2 small OCC so it can match the airflow speed.
What a logical explanation. Please do one explaining Water-Meth Injection in a Diesel engine. I hear people claiming 20% more power and up to 5 MPG more wilst cleaning your engine.
If you can feel the blowby from the dipstick tube when the engine is revved under some load then: Step1 - check the PCV valve. It that's OK then: Step 2 - consider a catch can. Or, if you own a VW or BMW then you can ignore step 1 and 2 since you are going to need it eventually anyway. To load the engine slip the clutch or put transmission in drive with foot firmly on the brake for a second or 2. Really helps to have a helper to do this '- ) EDIT: I always stand on the side of the car with my feet away from the front tire when doing this.
This is a good video but also need clarity. The engine you demonstrated is a Diesel engine. Usually they don’t have vacuum in the intake manifold. Adding a catch can to this obviously doesn’t create the necessary vacuum to draw the pressure in the crank. That is why when you added the OCC and took out dipstick, it showed oil spilling out of it. Some modern diesel engine have a vacuum pump to create negative pressure for brake booster and also for negative crank case pressure. Now on gasoline engine, the intake manifold creates a negative pressure due to throttle being close at idle. A los of engine have two or more vents in the valve cover. One that goss in the intake manifold for negative pressure and a second that goes from the valve cover to the intake line before the throttle for positive pressure. Again it was a great demonstration you did but it needed little more detail since you were using a diesel engine as your demonstration.
I strip out the screen and filter and replace with a stainless steel pot scrubber pad. Adding all this surface area gives gobs of oil catching surface with only a little pressure drop. Site it in a high temperature area like above a catalyst to drive out moisture of combustion and any fuel vapors.
the fact that you dont have a airfilter or airbox on will play into factor aswell. if there isn't vacum at the port for the ventilation tube, then it wont be properly vented. you need this vacum in order for a occ to function properly. by having the intake open like you do in the video. the port wont see vacum
Very well done. Some may still choose a catch can, but they will know that there may be a negative impact. I suspect the extent of the negative impact would be impacted by the engine type, hose runs, hose size and catch can design.
I disconnected the pipe leading from the crankcase and left it open...then blocked the PCV Inlet side to maintain the manifold vacuum for brake booster purposes... the blowby gases are useless..and that oily mist + EGR carbon/soot particles = choked INLET valves. My engine is a 4G93 GDi.
For that old engine a catch can is not needed and no telling what it might do. Only direct injected engines require a CC since the fuel (which has additives to clean valves) does not spray on the valve as in a port injected engine. So the catch can captures oil in the PCV system that might be in the PCV system that is used to vent the crankcase to the intake manifold. That is all a catch can does...intercept any oil in the PCV system from being sprayed on the intake valves.
The oil catch can you show may work like that but the Mann & Hummer Provent doesn't slow down the air at all. Therefore the Provent OCC is better than your type.
@Mr.DIYer - I cant udnerstand your video you say dont install oil catch can ??? the blowbye gas and oil goes to the manifold is this better it damages all components,injektor etc... I have a Mercedes c270 cdi 2001 and I have this Problem too much oil in my intake tract - my Turbo is new manifold is new the crankcase ventilation is new ???
Catch cans on the market are mostly bad. Build your own and use at least 3/8 inner diameter line that doesn’t collapse under full vacuum. Catch cans will save your engine if done properly especially if your engine is modified for more power.
I wondered why manufacturers had not put the OCC in the original build (standard equipment). This answers that question very well. It does beg for more experimentation, but very well presented regardless. Thank you!
I think cause 90% of the people wont want to do another maintance and would forget to drain it. By saying that all of the “collected” oil wold be sucked back to the engine internals and make it worst.
No, the reason manufacturers do not put OCC on the vehicles out of the factory is because it is a system that must be maintained, you must check it regularly and empty it. If you ignore it and it over fills you can then get engine damage. Manufacturers know most people do not maintain their cars properly and that most people will not know how to or bother to maintain the OCC, so this is why they are not put on the cars at the plant.
The solution is to take a iron pipe from the pcv valve and weld a connection and a iron pipe some cm inside in the direction to the catalytic converter. make sure the pipe is sucking then it is right.
I’m dealing with a 2.4 eco tech where the PCV system is fed by a tiny metering hole in the intake which clogs constantly since it’s directly below the throttle body which is directly below the port on the airbox, so crud drips down almost in a straight line from the PCV exhaust right into the PCV intake port….. so you sort of have to choose the cause of your blow by, extra tubes and filters or clogged PCV intake.
He is working on a diesel. For a Gas Direct injection engine he is wrong. The PVC has a restriction set by the factory, increase the flow and you will upset the expected air volume after the MAF.
What about ones like racing lines catch can for a golf 7r with just a baffle plate but no filter media restriction like your seeing in that typical oil catch can. Would you not get the best of both worlds then?
Hi! Great educational video. But how about if we bypass the breather hose (free outflow)? Is there any effect to the engine? Reason people do this is, for turbo engine it will re-route to intercooler thru turbo compressor. Later it will make it clog with oil. Thanks.
Yes this is possibly true, i have tried the same and there i have found that there are engine oil leaks coming from the lower crankcase as well as blowby gases coming out from the oil dipstick when i installed OCC in my 4JJ1 Diesel Engine turbo
The flow is obstructed because of the connectors dimensions not because it's changing volume. What you put definitely increase the pressure in the engine. Catch can should be used as separator with out increasing resistance and flow of the air. Second that's an old engine new engine use exhaust gas through EGR valve which is not always on but as needed. Basicly OCC has to be checked for each car if it makes senses or not.
Not sure why a filter would be required for an OCC anyway. If designed (and functioning) correctly, no filter should be required hence not affecting flow to any degree.
Something smells here, a sealed catch can system, with a non restrictive flow, changes nothing to the PCV system. If its pressurising you crankcase, you stuffed up. Since it seems we are all using silly examples, we shall you are river. when its narrow the flow speeds up, when its wide the flow slows down. Same volume, different speeds. However when the water is fast it takes sediment, when it slows down it drops it. That's all the catch can is doing, the pipe to the catch can is a higher flow, it slows down in the can, and speeds back up in the pipe to the intake. That's all it does. Same volume of air is moved. When the air moves quick, takes everything with it, when it slows down it drops it. I mean with your example, we shouldn't use oil/fuel filters, they create too much pressure lol
Add to this the fact that the contents (water) will freeze up in the winter and potentially block the flow, you start to see why OEM's don't install them. At least not like these.
So I have just added an OCC to my mustang. I put around a 100 miles on it and I can tell that there is a residual of oil within the can and stinks like oil vapors, but no liquid forming at the bottom of the can yet. I was simply checking to see if there was anything in it at the 100 miles after install. I didn't think there would be, but my reason in checking it also, was my car seems to be running poorly to a degree. I noticeable hitch when I get on it. I'm in the process changing out the pcv as it looks old and for a short time the pcv hose was not connected as we just put a supercharger on it, and we had to run the passenger side pcv hose to cc and the out from the air intake tube to the cc. From the drivers side valve cover, we ran a hose to the air intake tube just after the maf. I'm just worried I'm not getting good crank case pressure relief with this install, or maybe this has nothing to do with it and I'm running really rich. I'm in the process of checking that out as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks
@@leishi1950it just so happened to be chilly the day I checked the reservoir. good results finally when it warmed up and put some miles on it. It was breathing just fine through the pcv.
@@alfenner3309 that is great to hear which occ do you put in. I'm in the same place. Worries about the built up pressure in the crankcase and also worries about the hose cannot handle vacuum maybe clapsed
7:03 this demonstration is misleading because the water separator causes a FAR greater constriction of the crankcase vent compared a properly designed catch can. I would like to see this demonstration redone with an OCC rather than a false analogue
After buying my Citroen Dispatch (second hand) I took my phone and called a diesel specialist for info about oil catch cans. He told me that egr's are the real problem. So I had that deleted.
Ok but all you need to do is run the lines to the occ then instead of the little filter like most occs have run a line to your intake you’ll have the compression to pull the gases and oil out but it won’t be putting it back into your engine
Well dang. About to remove it from my 95 Celica. It has 300k miles. I had cleaned the intake and installed an occ. So I'll put back stock short hose. I want to hit 500k
how do you explain that certain manufacturers have integrated oil collectors into the architecture of their diesel and gasoline engines!!! not to mention breathers, cdr or pcv valves (diesel or gasoline) and sometimes we have several of these systems in the same engine!!
What about a MAP based gasoline engine where the pcv is removed and all that's left is two identical air filters as breathers, venting to atmosphere? A lot of turbo gasoline high horsepower enthusiasts remove the pcv - and I always wondered if that caused more harm than good. I do know that at high psi there is a lof of crank case pressure, thus they have to remove it quickly with no pcv in place
I've built, tuned a great number of performance engines over the years and I've made and learned from a ton of mistakes, lol. Removing the PCV without running another form of crankcase evac is a bad idea. Those element breathers atop valve covers do absolutely nothing for venting the crankcase under load. You absolutely need suction on one side and a breather on the other. Unfortunately MAP and vacuum based efi systems, and some performance carb metering circuits see the PCV circuit as a vacuum leak and have a hard time controlling the IAC at idle. This isn't a problem at off idle RPMs as far as I can tell so far. Fortunately a company called M/E Wagner makes a dual flow, fully adjustable PCV valve that is a great solution. It has two ranges (roughly 0-5"Hg / 5+" Hg) so you can cut down or cut out the PCV flow at lower signal ( like 0 - 3" Hg) and open up the flow at the higher revs ( like 5-10" Hg) and still reap the benefits of PCV vacuum evacuation under load and cruise where most of your blowby occurs anyways. Also, run a catch can. I've never seen a healthy motor act like it did in the above video just from a catch can install. Thats gotta be a pretty worn out set of rings.
