People started doing this a lot in the UK a few years back when diesel went over £1 per ltr, shortly afterward the price of vegetable oil went from 20 pence ltr, to over £1 ltr so it was cheaper to buy diesel.
The Poles brought the idead over to the UK but they started filling up in supermarket car parks and the retailers caught on quickly and veg oil got real expensive.
Like several of your other commenters, a decade ago I could make biodiesel extremely cheap and used it to fuel my farm equipment and my dually Ford. I was able to haul away used cooking oil from several local restaurants and cafes. That all began to change and the ingredients began to sky rocket and a company I won't name lest I give them free publicity, signed contracts with my cooking oil sources, to a man, and they pay them for their used oil. I sold my little refinery that I made and perfected and resigned myself to pay at the pump. I have since retired from farming/ranching but I just thought the viewers should know that it may be interesting and even intriguing to make your own diesel but it's not necessarily economical.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer good for you. Not everyone is so fortunate and the available sources can easily be strained if enough people in your vicinity decide to use it too. It's a good idea but not for everybody. Happy New Year to you.
Uneconomical in Britain now 15 years ago it was but greed consumed the process veg oil went from Half the price of diesel to either the same price or slightly dearer, the government as usual taxed it beyond what was viable. Big companies contracted the waste oil
Interesting process, very simple. I'm a biochemistry undergrad that's researching biodiesel made from ethanol and using potassium glyceroxide as the catalyst (made from glycerol). We want to optimize the safety, sustainability, and efficiency of biodiesel production with our methods!
That's cool, I'm just an amateur and not a chemist lol. The hurdle for me, or any DIY'er in using Ethanol, is producing it free of water. The simple pot still I have, can hit 170-180 proof, removing that remaining water is the challenge.
@TheDrivewayEngineer to dry ethanol we use molecular sieves in our lab (type 3a I think). Reusable just need to bake for sometime to remove the water. Newer sieves will leave some dust that probably should be filtered out We do experiments showing effects of water on phase separation with our process. Our glassware is kept baking at 105C before reactions
I'm flabbergasted, I couldn't believe he would use water spray and not filter it out. Leaving it on there will cost a lot more money in the long run, than that saved over using reqular. 1st the pump, then the injectors, and onwards from there ☹️
Thank you for including the disclaimer. I had a newer duramax come to the dealer with low power complaints and a ton of codes. Exhaust smelled just like a deep fryer. Customer failed to mention he made his own biodiesel until service writer (finally) called and questioned the guy. This will not work on new trucks with emissions equipment. It could get cost prohibitive very quickly. A fresh tank of real diesel fixed the issues
If it smelled like a deep fryer it still had the glycerol in it, and was not therefore biodiesel. People will throw cooking oil in their vehicle and tell you they are using biodiesel when in fact they are using straight vegetable oil, as in this case.
@@roberttill3787-- That's not necessarily true. I was making real biodiesel for years when I could get the waste oil for free. Some restaurants paid me to take it. It ALWAYS smelled faintly like french fries.
The problem is the system. Most educators comes straight from schools to teach. This means does not get experience, are not exposed to solving problems. When you are exposed in solving common problems with simple or complex solutions then you can teach it. This creates a different educational behavior.
any diesel truck as long as it is not an HDi engine (high pressure injection) will run on a 50/50 mix of veg oil and diesel regardless of pump make in the summer months when temps are higher than 10 degrees C, if however you have a Bosch fuel pump you can pour straight vegetable oil, sunflower oil into the tank and run it without problems in the summertime. in winter you would need a tank heater. I ran my 1998 Citroen diesel on reclaimed vegetable oil for 7 years in a row during the summer and had no issues at all, my Father had the same car and ran his to on vegetable oil.
In my younger days, I used to get my oil from a restaurant, (free), clean it up using an old cream sepatator as a centrifuge, and pour it straight into my ‘81 VW Golf. Never had injector or filter problems. Of course, I could only do this when the temperature was above 12 centigrade. I got 40 mpg (imperial gallon, not U.S.)
I saw a TDI car go up for sale for 700 bucks when I was at the lake and thought, wtf would sell a TDI that cheap right now lol. It sold in 30 minutes before I could finish the section of video I was working on.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer i asked you before about the necessity to go through the process of methanol to have usable fuel and you told me that Old vehicles with mechanical pumps use filtered veg oil as is mixed with some diesel New vehicles require the removal of glycerin Is it safe to assume that the biodiesel after glycerine has been removed can be used on any diesel engine old and new? Meaning I do the process on all the oil i get regardless and use the made biodiesel on whatever I want old or new without caring
@@FirstLast-tx3yj yes, you can run anything new or old on B100. People say that B100 does something to the dpf in newer trucks, but mine has no dpf, so idc lol. But my Toyota can easily run on diesel, oil, veg oil, B100, B20, whatever
@@TheDrivewayEngineer will you ever try catalytic cracking of veg oil to make gasoline? The process is more complicated than the esterification of veg oil to diesel but will give you about 20% gasoline 40% diesel and 40% gasses that you can use to reheat the rig itself I got excited about it because my fun having vehicles are gasoline and not diesel
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Jeez, man, use eye-pro when mixing that potassium hydroxide! I'm a bit confused, because I've been pricing bulk (new) veg oil and the nest price I can find works out to around $3.75/litre (16L for $60). Not very economical when pump desel is $1.38/L right now. Where do you find cheap veg oil in bulk quantities? One question: I've got a VW BHW engine (2005 Passat) in my Toyota. The lift pump in the tank is the OEM Toyota but the lines are B100 rated and the VW is all OEM but with MAF/EGR/Cat deletes. Do you think I could run straight veg oil without ruining everything?
Made my own biodiesel for 5 years at over 1000 liters per year. Had to give it up when used oil became hard to get and what I did get titrated to high. You have the basics but you need to refine your process. Hopefully you will do so with a larger processor.
You are nearly there, did everything right, but forgot to remove the Glycerol, but instead, mist washed it while the Glycerol is still at the bottom. You then poured it all in and the water that was in it. You need to remove the Glycerol, then wash it, keep removing the water from the bottom until the water is clear, then heat off the water until bio is dry, then filter the bio
@@Taydrum Mix it 50/50 if that’s a concern. South American diesels run on “bio fuels” and have no issues. The emissions are cleaner also as there is no NOX or other harmful things.
Probably won't be until spring now, it's too cold to pump oil in Michigan now. I have a bunch stored up, and some cleaned and ready to process, but transfering it is a nightmare right now. I'm down to my last barrel of B100 at home now.
I've never owned a Diesel engine, or a vehicle powered by one, but I have heard that biodiesel will eventually create clogging in the fuel system, and is quicker to gel or freeze in lower temperatures.
if done incorrectly yes. You need to ensure you add anti-microbial and anti-gel to bio diesel. Also important to test PH level and make it slightly basic so it doesn't east away at the fuel system.
3 women drove their diesel van across the U.S. without paying for any fuel. They gathered the used cooking oil that was being thrown out behind the restaurants where they ate, and used that as fuel.
All of the used oils and hydraulic fluids I collect at home I catch as clean as possible in a catch can I keep sealed in double trash bags. When full, I pour the 15 qts into 5-qt oil jugs I save from new oil/fluid changes. I let the jugs sit for at least 90 days and then slowly pour off the top 4 quarts. The last quart has the settled solids or contamination in it. I mix 3 gal of the clean used oil with gasoline nearly 1:1 in 5 gallon fuel cans and shake for 1 minute, and put two 5-gallons cans into a 3/4 full tank of diesel. My 2005 Ram diesel has a 40 gallon tank. This makes a mix of about 15% used oils. It seems to run fine Winter and Summer. I do change my fuel filter a little sooner than typical, about every 10,000 miles, rather than 15,000. The dirty oil left in each jug i combine again and let settle another 90 days and repeat. The 2nd time I pour off the top and use the remainder as chain-lube and make two-cycle fuel for my chainsaw, and some start my wood boiler at night. It's a cheap and easy way to get rid of collected fluids, have a little free fuel, and not waste anything either.
Small refinery makes 5-8 gallons per hour of diesel and half that of gasoline from waste crankcase oil. No chemicals to buy, free waste motor oil. Better solution from someone who has spent more than a decade making biodiesel.
Hi just a comment you need to wash bio d in h2so4 sulfuric acid and water diluted. And before washing separate the free fatty acid and glyerene off the product. When the h2so4 is initially washed separate and wash another 2 times with fresh water and a bubble stone from an aquarium with an air pump. Your bio d will be clean and ready to use when it's clear if you have issues with water retention add a little isopropanol alcohol. I manufactured bio d to the en 14/2/14 standard. And was one of the original bio d ers in the UK. Regards Martin steele
Hi, I make my own biodiesel, from Nottingham, England. I remove the Glycerol then rinse, then heat off the suspended water. I would of thought water in it would cause hydrolic lock, and thought all diesels would over time, caramelise the pistons then be harder to start on cooking oil.
You can heat off the water if you're in a rush or just want security, I just wait it out myself. If you run straight WVO long term, you will have issues with your IP and rings eventually. How long that takes, 60k, 100k miles, anyones guess. And at current prices, people may find it worth it.
Unfortunately here in the UK the vegetable oil is just as expensive as the diesel..It's interesting that our natural gas price is 5x higher than the rest of Europe.If that's not an agenda I don't know what is.
That is if you can get old veg oil, nowadays here by us every drop of old oil is scooped up by the recyling companies. Your only hope of finding old veg oil is in your own kitchen after making fries and thats not gonna fill a tank in a few months, so yeah not really worth it. Its a much better idea to make diesel and fuel from old plastic via pyrolyses. Those are much easier to come by and you get much more variety, you even get gas for your stove😉😄👍
@@TheDrivewayEngineer ahh good for you brother.. so actually what your video is about you having bio diesel and no one else can get. Heheheh, just saying. Cudos on the bio diesel 👍😄😉
For everyone wanting to try this please do you research on pricing first. Local sources to me ( middle of nowhere southern US ) Methanol prices are around $517 for a 54 Gallon drum, not 55, which comes out to approximately $9.57 per gallon. I buy well over 200 gallons a year and cant get a deal on it lol. Another local source for vegetable oil quoted me at $1,650 for a 55 gallon drum, approximately $30 a gallon. Even at my local supermarket I am paying $30 a gallon for store brand, and up to $60 a gallon for high end name brand vegetable oil. Just to cook with. For our UK friends that dont know, 1 gallon = 3.785 liters.
The point is...grow sunflowers. All you need to do to convert SVO to fully compatible diesel is add kerosene or gasoline at 10% to it. No methanol or potassium hydroxide needed. In addition, to filter WVO you can just use gelatin mixed with hot water stirred in and settled. You do NOT need to react with methanol. The kero/petrol soluabilizes the fatty esters that you remove with this method. It also increases energy density in the fuel over and above standard diesel, whereas the methanol method reduces it. I've known about this method for years after a Kansas farmer used the results of a 2002 paper to convert sunflower oil to diesel. He tested it extensively on an injector bench, then stepwise used it in his diesel truck, and eventually started using it in all of his farming equipment, including 250k dollar combines. He grows sunflowers as a part of his rotation, and as fuel prices increased he realized he could save enormous money over selling the seed into the animal feed market.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer apologies...i didn't mean to come off confrontational. You do a good job with your method. I'm just frustrated that a cheaper method exists and is receiving no love.
With you on this one...But first I am going to say...Do not try this with the newer High Pressure pump engines...such as the one I have in my Jeep Wrangler CRD or the newer VW/Audi models. In the past I have run Landrover diesels, Rover car diesels, Perkins Diesels, Peugeot/Citroen diesels, even VW turbo Diesels. I never did any of the things you did....I ran my engines on. Diesel, Kerosene, Hydraulic oil, Brake fluid, cooking oil direct from the supermarket and mixes of all of these....like when a guy gave me 400 litres of old brake fluid.......I would throw half a tank of brake fluid in my Landrover and then top off with diesel, she ran perfectly if not quieter than on straight diesel....same with hydraulic oil.....The Landrover would run happily on hydraulic oil, so would the Perkins diesel.....but a bit of diesel or Kerosene to top it off never hurt matters. I would say that over the years I did this regularly I saved thousands of pounds sterling......I would occasionally take old engine oil from friends and from my servicing and run it through old denim a few times...Denim is a good filter. I also denim filtered some of the hydraulic oil, didn't seem to do much to it but it did take out a residue. I carried out all these operations in a small shed in my back yard and kept a big drum of my filtered fuel in my shed and for years only went to a filling station when I was waiting for something to run through my filter system.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Great....I am happy for you.....I will look into it when I need it.....but I used to do all those things when I was just a poor guy trying to make his way in the world....Nowadays I own a farm and have at least 200 gallons of diesel in reserve at any one time. (I will probably buy one of those fancy things that do it all for you and keep it in the back of the barn....I still hate wasting old oil.
A bit strange to do even the example the wrong way. You always empty the glycerol first and after that you can wash it several times with water. The more washes, the cleaner diesel. Conical containers are always used to easily empty out glycerol and dirty water that settle on the bottom.
the only problem of biodiesel is that requires a lot of pure alcohol and it's incredibly expensive so people dont make it but just go to a gas station and have a regular diesel that is alredy tested and has nearly identical price (probably even cheaper). anyway you've made a nice guide man
55 gallons of methyl alcohol cost me 235.00 That gives me a cost of 91 cents a gallon. I've been running this for years now, my costs have never been over 1.13 a gallon. But the fact that it takes any amount of effort above zero will keep people paying 4.50/gallon at the pump anyway
While it's good in a pinch, you can't store it. We use bio diesel on base and it ruined injectors and separated in the fuel tanks. What I would like to learn is distilling crude oil to make diesel...
It works with waste veggie oil as well... Some dinner places will give it to you for free... That process still need some washing and drying, but for a starter kit is great
Bio diesel is a great additive however if run on pure Bio it will clean the fuel tank of sludge and send it to your injectors. The repair is very involved. And keep it away from paint and concrete or rubber. It will damage all three. I'll see how it works for heating my house.
I am contemplating what I can do to source everything from scratch. I’ve read that wood ash produces potassium hydroxide. There are people who use ethanol instead of methanol. I can brew ethanol and distill it. I am looking for plants that produce high yields of vegetable oil. Mostly to say I can. I’m curious if ethanol can be used instead of methanol. Another question is when you add water to extract the suspended methanol. Does that water now contaminate the fuel? I’ve read that most biodiesel is hygroscopic. This can cause excessive wear on the pistons and increased corrosion in the engine and fuel system. Is there a method to remove water? Also what’s the shelf life of most biodiesel? Because I know most vegetable oils oxidize (go rancid). Is this the same for biodiesel? Last question. Could pure unrefined veg oil be used in a 6.2L Detroit diesel? Thanks!
That water falls out of suspension, as the video shows, and takes the dirt with it. Any older mechanical diesel can run on straight veg oil with no extra steps, as I said in the video.
I did my first batch. Its about 26 /28 liters or soo... i bought 5liters of methanol, it took 2 weeks, not very easy ti find. Then i did the ratio i found on a vietnamese video. 8l wvo, 2l metanol and 50 grs lye. It is wonderful, but still a pitty in winter it is not very usefull
You can use animal to make biodiesel, but there are challenges that have to be overcome. The lye (KOH or NaOH) is what causes the reaction, the methanol (which could be substituted with ethanol) is a catalyst and isn't mandatory... the process takes longer. It does NOT cause the "fats to drop out of suspension". The chemical reaction takes the triglycerides and breaks off the glycerine that binds the 3 fatty acids together. The by product is soap, essentially. EDIT (PSA): Also, when working with methanol and either form of lye (KOH or NaOH), you should be wearing adequate PPE. Methanol is lethal and readily absorbs into your body through your skin. As few as 10mL can cause blindness and 15mL can be fatal. Lye is caustic and will give you a nasty chemical burn. Despite how people are starting to freak out about it, you SHOULD use vinegar to neutralize the lye... you do want to be cautious and not let it stand, pour the vinegar on the affected site in a place with drainage (over a sink is fine, if it is your hands) and rinse with water to remove the combination which is exothermic. Proper PPE is elbow length cleaning gloves, goggles, and a good chemical apron as well as keeping the rest of your body well covered. Can you wing it without hurting yourself? Sure... but a bump or slip and you're screwed. Don't be stupid. PSA over.
Thanks. People will need diesel fuel engines and machinery, and diesel or oil will not work with gasoline fuel engines. Diesel engines were the first type of combustion engine. Robert Murray Smith has some ideas also.
You probably spend more money on bio diesel production than just buy diesel at the pump. But it's good educational knowledge.😊 Its $6.00 a gallon of vegetable oil in the grocery store right now😊. Its $5 gallon for diesel.
Hi, just found your channel, cool topics. I've got a question. I have about 200 gallons of 40 year old diesel. It is/was farm grade. It is now thicker and darker, and will clog up fuel injectors on an old tractor. Is it possible to restore the fuel for use? And if not, could I use it in a Chinese diesel heater (space heater) by adding "Heet" or an alternative to it?
First measure the viscosity, I doubt it's as thick as you think. I've worked with old diesel that's just fine. It will likely need filtering to remove any impurities ( and dry it). Once clean and dry, assuming viscosity is OK. It will be OK. If in doubt, run it in older engines, pre common rail. Will be fine
@@mikevolante7663 Old diesel handle long time storage much better than the new sorts, and the condenses usually has to be removed whit etanol before each vinter! The material of the tank is important because plastic tanks are not producing a lot of impurities as metal tanks, but I doesn't know if some sort of chemical reaction can take place between the diesel and plastic in many years?
bio diesel os great until your in a semi and it gels up in -45 degree weather and you have no heater cause engine wont run, in my semi driving career i never had a problem until bio fuels came out i got stuck for days more them a few times almost freeze to death 2 times
I made mine back in 1990s using 5 x 1ltr bottles of vegetable oil and 1 1ltr turpentine and half liter of diesel and mix it and smell like a dish n chip shop :😀
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Thanks for replying! I have an almost unlimited amount of used oil and used gasoline in my line of work. I'm thinking about trying to do the waste oil/gas thing in a older diesel, maybe a gm 6.5 idk
I used make biodiesel, but I had to replace too many fuel filters clogged with soapy stuff. The biodiesel was clear and dry...if I make it again I will need to refine process and pay for a lab test.
Good stuff man! Living in the Netherlands I am interested, we pay about 7.5 Euro/gallon for Diesel. Unfortunately we will likely get the death penalty if we get caught making cheaper full. Wonder what can be done for the newer Diesel engines with common rail high pressure injections systems.
Edmund, greetings from Frankfurt. I don't think this concept works in most of Europe. At least here, I wouldn't be able to buy a 55 gallon barrel of Ethanol as the guy in the first posting above mentioned, no legal way unless I run a business. And Diesel engines that old aren't allowed to enter environmental zones in most cities for several years already. Plant oil for cooking is almost as expensive as Diesel and I wonder if used oil from small food shop is possible to obtain. Wouldn't be surprised if the owners have to document buying and selling / recycling but I have to check that. I'm very happy with my12 year old VW Caddy and its CNG motor. Natural gas for cars still has a reduced tax rate, which will obviously end rather sooner than later. Until than is about €5.50 per 100 km of range. The overall footprint of CNG is very good and a new EV needs to run for 150k- 200k kilometers to break even with the CNG. I came here because I finally learned about the Vevor Diesel air heater yesterday (for my workshop) although it does take almost anything oil based as old Diesel motor did a long time ago.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Oh, good I quickly looked at your ( and others ) video and thought it was not suitable for all engines. What is your opinion? Anyway High Pressure pumps are very expensive but since our government has taxed away diesel cars they made them worthless. So I can buy a cheap Diesel car for less then the the price of a HP pump and try :-)
@@edmundzed9870 If I wasn't totally bankrupt I for sure would visit your country to maybe find some better cars! Heard someone tell that Finland got the most expensive car prizes in the whole world and I guess it's true? I'm not sure I going to try to make the biodiesel because the police would take my license and put me in jail if I should get caught...
@@64TommyG Well maybe we can make a deal, I buy cars and ship them to you. Netherland isn't the best place because we have the highest taxes in the world and the most expensive cars in the world. Germany is much better. I have to check for actual prices but I have seen a German TV program where perfectly good cars where scrapped. These cars where not allowed to enter certain cities
As vegetable oil is at least as expensive as diesel in the UK, there is little point unless used oil is available in quantity, which is pretty unlikely if there is any competition for it.
Fun fact ammonia aka nh3 nitrogen hydrogen 3 is a cheap renewable fuel and can be run in any gasoline and diesel engine with minor modification. Look up ammonia as fuel videos. Ammonia as a fuel and engines existed before gasoline combustion and diesel engines. Rudolf diesel made ammonia engines before he made diesel compression engines. 1960s NASA space race was fueled by ammonia. Rockets, aviation fuel is still made with ammonia. The land speed record is held by a rocket car running of straight ammonia. You don't hear about ammonia as a cheap renewable fuel because of corrupt politicians and businesses that want force you to buy their products and tax control you. a cheap fuel means can't control you. You can easily alter any gasoline engine to run off ammonia all requires is a propane tank kit and a 2nd fuel pump switch kit. But fill with ammonia. This can be done on a car , truck, boat, and generator etc. A diesel engine can run off ammonia but requires more tuning to control compression vs combustion in gas engines. Diesel pickup engine tuner kits will help alter control compression of ammonia. You can make ammonia at home from nitrogen pulled from air and bond with water where hydrogen once bump off oxygen bonds with nitrogen. There are also farm scale production methods to make ammonia, where ammonia is used as a fertilizer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XHZXAz9WP9M.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_H4XZ_m7P0E.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L0hBAz6MxC4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B6HzP84KhoY.html
What's the catch? I don't see it, because (at least here in EU) sunflower oil is 2-2.3 euro/liter and diesel is 1.5-1.8 euro/liter. Dinosaur juice is cheaper... + that chemicals and the work...
The first thing I need to learn is how much a gallon is!??! The diesel prize was around 2,50 € per liter when it was as highest... Impossible to compere with unknown amount (litres versus gallons) so if I could get it down to under a €/litre I would earn a lot of money per year when I drive between 100-200000 kilometers each year...
I have a ‘97 250 ram would I still need to filter the oil? And I’ve heard people use old restaurant fryer oil-if it was used to deep fry chicken or other meat patties wouldn’t that mess up the oil?
If you use waste oil from, say, a restaurant's deep fryer, even though it has been filtered and re-filtered, before being discarded by the restaurant, because it has become pretty nasty for culinary use, despite being filtered multiple times, is it not still going to have things mixed in with it that came from all the food items that were deep-fried in it? Potato starch? Fat from fish, chicken, beef, pork, etcetera, particles of potato skin, chicken skin? Glob knows what else. How will these work in the diesel engine's fuel injectors, fuel pump, cylinder heads, cylinders, piston rings, valve, valve seats and valve guides. Will all this extra stuff, that isn't in commercial diesel fuel, be ok to use in a diesel engine? Will they deposit themselves to some extent on moving surfaces and affect how long the engine lasts? For all I know they will help the engine last longer. But I don't know all that much.
Depends on your source and what they use in it. Also, this is why you would filter, then centrifuge it. I use a 600 micron, 300 micron, 100 micron, then a 3000G centrifuge before I process.
I run a diesel generator during the winter since my solar panels don't work during our dark Alaskan winters, I'm sure the gen wouldn't care if it drank biodiesel.
You might have to heat the fuel tank and lines if you are in the middle of winter in an extremely cold location. Hopefully the Generator is in an insulated housing.
And it's OK to use stearic acid animal fat wash it warm and blend it with #1 diesel fuel allow it to cool and separate off the solids stearic acid has quite a high cetane level if my memory serves me right.
vegetable oil is more expensive than diesel i used to use chip fat with a pe heater right in the tank in winter mix it with diesel to stop it from freezing
I collect from several different restaurants. I've stopped collecting from some because it had too much water and fat in it. So even if it's all oil, it's not all the same quality. It doesn't matter if one is canola and one is coconut though.
Methanol is now $50-60 for a 5 gallon container.lol still cheaper than $6 a gallon for diesel but they really don't want people to get by. When I started I could buy 5 gallons of methanol for 20 bucks
Depends on a bunch of stuff. Probably nothing. Possibly everything. Anywhere in between lol. In my full size processor I just drain until pure B100 comes out, I waste some of it to ensure no glycerin makes it.
This is only profitable if you can find large source of used cooking oil. That source will dry up fast once a bunch of people are trying to do this. You can also use waste motor oil if it is well filtered.
I would really like to be doing this but for the amount of work (which is more than is seen here) It off sets the money you save a lot. I guess it comes down to if you have easy access to oil the ingredients at a decent price and somewhere permanent to make it all....