This Jacket Hijacked Fashion 

Babe wake up bliss foster posted

Please make a series of videos talking about particular gargements. I really loved how much we can learn just from one piece of clothing. I'm sure there are many more pieces we should know and that deserve a video

fun fact, my college has an original Charles James in its archives we are not allowed to touch it because it is literally disintegrating~

The word 間 is a japanese kanji obv, so its root is in chinese. And basically the word in chinese means similar to the space in between, but also it functions as a divide, like a divide in space, or the physical action of dividing something. It's usually used in compound with the word that roughly means center (中), so the word "center" in whole would be 中間.

I would also like to interject that Ye likely got inspo from the 80’s film “Akira” Kaneda dons an all ride biker suit with the jacket looking very similar as well and he’s vocalized his appreciation of the film in the past!!

Hey Bliss if you ever did a podcast, I would 100% keep up with it daily, like sometimes I don't really have the time to watch RU-vid videos, but I'm always listening to podcast episodes on the go, like on the bus, while waiting for stuff etc. Just a lil comment for u to consider, obviously these videos take a bunch of time and effort so a podcast would kinda double that, but still yknow, just putting it out there!

This video will probably make like $100 from RU-vid We don’t run sponsors. My partner+I put in about⬇️⬇️ 90 hours total on this video. If you like this content, support it on Patreon pls :) Link in description.

@1:09 before you tell us......The one and only MR. CHARLES JAMES.I had the pleasure of visiting his studio at the Chelsea Hotel with Tony Viramontes through Antonio.The Met did one of the best exhibits of his work which featured a x-ray machine to view the inner workings of his gowns......AMAZING!

Thanks!

The armpit gusset surprised me. I never thought of gussets as a way of creating a collapsible space as much as a way of creating a pouch from something flat, but it seems like the perfect application of it.

The key to the pourpoint gambeson is the wide inset arm scye and the gusset. That is the influence he drew from that garment for this jacket.

This idea of the influence of kimonos on the dress shirt etc is sort of blowing my mind. I get it and am also throughly confused. 😳🤯 I need a deeper dive that take. Also let us not forget the kimono and Cristobal Balenciaga

That stain you can see in modern picture of the jacket on the lower left front bottom edge is from a wild night at studio 54. The very clever cutting of the pattern along with the gusset give that jacket a full range of motion, much fuller than most jackets we would be familiar with today.

im so glad you came to reference Charles James ! he's also responsible for the taxi dress (wrap dress that inspired DVF)

The way the sleeves look, especially in the photo at 9:04, remind me a lot of the 16th century Spanish sleeve style where there was a larger, short outer sleeve, and longer, more narrow sleeves came out underneath it. An example of what I mean can be seen in the painting of Anna of Austria by Anthonis Mor van Dashorst.

Hello from Japan！！　Great video, your pronunciation of Kimono is spot on！　Your observation of the Kimono being a garment with a great deal of space between the wearers skin and the fabric is correct/incorrect at the same time. Yes the many different varieties of Kimono garments more or less have lots of space for arms and legs BUT all Kimono's are tightly fastened with an Obi or sash at the waist, slim women have to use folded towels or padding to enhance the body shape so the kimono drapes well. This makes the Kimono very hot, constricting and tiring to wear if you don't wear them regularly. People of Asian decent tend to sweat much less than us and also wrapping a tight Obi sash under the armpits actually suppresses the sweat glands which I recently learned. I am a hot person so even a summer cotton Yukata Kimono I get soaked with sweat. I'm not trying to put you down it's just that I sometimes see the explanation that the Kimono is a louse fitting garment when in fact it isn't.

this HIJACKETED fashion

i still believe this is the best fashion channel in the world

1:32 The Metropolitan Museum of Art had a great exhibition of Charles James’ designs including the jacket.

I am SO EXCITED that you're talking about Charles James! I'm a vintage/historical fashion tragic and he's one of my absolute icons, he could make fabric do ANYTHING - check out the skirt of his clover dress! Loved the video too

Holy dart Bliss, you really outdid yourself on this one! I'm getting a bit of Errolson vibes from Charles James obsession with articulation and engineering. Never heard about him before, but seems like I'm gonna jump down a rabbit hole tonight...

I was so excited to have seen Yves’ version at the YSL Museum in Paris. It was so nice to be able to explain it in detail to my girlfriend! You are amazing, Bliss!

i am not a woman but i wear a petticoat (actually an organza pannier) under my skirt on non-work days because it looks cool and those skirts? those panniers? they use rectangular construction to center the pattern above the cut (like a frikken kimono!) it's kimono all the way down

This is incredible… the level of information is super impressive. So much learning about these connections and evolutions of fashion. Thank you

Thanks for making this video, love the deep dive into the history and inspiration of this jacket! In sewing and patterning making the difference between the body measurements and the garment measurements is called "ease"-you need this so you can move and bend in your clothes, especially when they are made from woven fabrics. Many garments made from knits (i.e. exercise tights or swimsuits) have negative ease and are smaller than your body measurements, they are able to be tight against your body because the stretch in the knit allows you to move easily. Also Schiaparelli made matching monkey fur boots to go with that jacket, they're in the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Man I’m so happy i found your channel

Love this video. I'm actually learning to sew because this jacket inspired a design idea for a coat that would both fit nicely and look great on me. I've always been a bit of a fashionista, but now I'm starting to want pieces that fit the way I like and drape in the right places for my body type. I don't want to have to spend a fortune on every garment, so I'm learning to make them myself. This information is going to be very useful. Thank you. I would love to see more videos of this type. It's such great information.

This channel is a blessing

I just found your channel and I think I’m just going to watch every video. I like the way you talk about fashion, you’re clearly passionate. And funny ! And serious but not taking yourself seriously. Great video. I did know about this jacket ! But not in detail.

I’m a sculptor (and a fashion nut) and I enjoy so much the bringing together of art and fashion. Thanks Bliss!

The concept of the wall of air is so interesting, I was under the impression kimonos were worn pretty tight (even if in a tubular shape smoothed by padding) because I often saw the obi being compared to the (supposed) tightness and rigidity of a corset, as in, it's deceptively ''comfy'' looking.

Your knowledge is impeccable. Thank you for sharing! I love your videos so much

Amazing video Bliss Foster you have given us so much valuable facts!

LOVE LOVE LOVE YOUR CONTENT! Your hard work and research is inspiring and appreciated 🎉😊

Love the deep dive into a single piece !❤

This video is so good! I'm a fashion designer and this definitely inspire me to make some stuff. Please more videos about iconic specific peaces 🙏

LOVE every bit of this!!! I learned so Much. You are amazing!!!! thank you for sharing .

so much fun hearing/ watching you

As a Kimono Enthusiast, no. Just no. I will elaborate; whilst pattern making is a lost art form, the Kimono has a far more complex interaction in global textile cultures than 'block pattern'. Uniformity was a model which started in the US with things like the Ford Model T production line, which kickstarted the idea that less waste was more economically beneficial to the capitalist wallet. I comment this because WHERE ARE YOUR SOURCES??? >: |. Kimono influenced South East Asian styles in the 15th century, along with Japanese sword designs, as the Kosode which spread because before Sakoku (pre 1640), Japanese trade networks were rather well established in the area. Kimono in the 17th century were exported to Europe, becoming the Banyan, later the 'nightgowne', and influenced the creation if the waistcoat at the court of Charles II in a bid to curb his courtiers decadence as to own a Kimono was ludicrously expensive. Kimono went on to inform mens tailoring and suits and were worn by academics and aristocrats. In the 19th century, Kimono were reintroduced by European and American merchants and were worn first by artists and later by the wealthy. By the last quarter of the century, Kimono greatly inspired the dress reform and aesthetic movements, which took the 'Ma' aspect into women's tailoring and created dresses like those designed by Emily Floge or Anna Muthesius which allowed greater movement than the previous was waistline and tea-gowns had provided. These transformed how comfort and space were viewed by designers, not fabric economy. This was more something thought to be done around the 1930s-1950s due to the depression, wartime rations and this was reflected in patterns from the time, which were still heavily done by hand. Uniform patterns, something anyone who has something that fits will understand is a travesty, were created to push more product onto consumers who wanted a particular look, something lady's magazines had pushed since the 1870s in places like Godey Ladys Book or the Englishwomans Domestic as most people could not afford to have their clothes made by tailors, much as we dont all just buy nothing but savile row suits today. Kimono if anything are a T-shape, mostly rectangular, not square and are adapted to the wearer, particularly if something is larger or smaller the sleeves will adjusted to fit. There has also been a move towards changing styles for disabled people to wear them, so there is no one uniform Kimono pattern, I think you perhaps mean the silhouette never changed? PS Love your work, and who hasnt heard of James Charles??? Particularly the dresses

I have one more design reference for you, Bliss: the Michelin Man aka Bibendum, from 1894 and one of the oldest trademarks still in existence. Rubber tires were originally white-grey in color and Bibendum looked like the stack of inflated tires made into a man. Let me know what you think.

Love those pants ("wacky stuff like this") you're wearing! More info on those? (The whole video is great, obv)

Hey hey bliss I get excited about darts, bratz, and larp 😂😂😂

I can’t decide if I love you more or your enthusiastic personality with a drop of humor ❤💕 -but- I have still unanswered questions from both of your channels all the way from the time of Virgil’s passing 😏

Amazing shirt / jacket you’re wearing by the way.

so deep diving....thanks Bliss

*WOW AND WOW* I knew the jacket - but 1937 OMG I thought it was about 1988

The puffer jacket seen here seems to be an homage to great british designer Charle James. The man was a genius who unfortunately had a hard time making money from his work due to what appears to have been time management, coupled with almost impossible garments to be put into production. P.S. I just realized that the great fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez is wearing the jacket in your very informative look into Charles James.

THAT JACKET! Charles James. THE MASTER! The jacket that launched a million puffer jackets! Probably my all-time favorite designer. Charles James grasp of structure was astounding and everyone owes him a big thanks who came after. ❤‍🔥💖💓

Feel free to share a list of French words and I‘d be happy to walk you through how to pronounce them, Bliss! Great video btw

What is worth 20 dollars a month for me personally, Im a manga artist and my stories world is a hyper fantasy new Americas esk with beast and native and magical weapons- and every character needs a story with there clothes in this new world and a new type of story , so critique and constructive criticism is worth so much more then 20 a month for the hours I spend thinking and researching fashion shows ect …

Guess I have to now make it.

Bliss, this piece seems to have heavily inspired Larry Legaspi as well, with his use of trapunto in curvaceous ways.

This was a great video. I learned a bunch, from beginning to end. Thanks!

13:31 this was so guttural it struck me with a deep fear

apparently bliss has finally started seeing us there

Thank you for your videos Bliss 👏 could you imagine being a lecturer at a (fashion/art) University?

This is why I watch...

can you do a compilation of recommended fashion learning resources beside your channel?

Thanks

Fencer! Me too. In part for the fashion.

“The gussets are essential” 😂

I am so glad to see you do this video, Bliss Foster! I could wax rhapsodic about Charles James for hours. I think he is the single most important designer of the twentieth-century, and the Eiderdown Jacket you feature in this video is the single most important single piece of fashion of the twentieth-century. I would love to see you cover more about Charles James. What he did with structuring dresses is also revolutionary, groundbreaking, orgasmic even. Without Charles James you don't have the Dior New Look (which is styled directly on James approach and Dior even said James was the master of structure). Without James, there is no basis for Mugler. Without James, Halston may never have reached the levels he reached. They all copied and/or were influenced by Charles James and he should be far, far more well-known. I am so glad to see you give him his due in this video. Please do more about him! 🙏

Hey bliss still trying to get onto the fashion discord not working. Also keep up the content 🤘

Yeeeeessss we heavily stan Charles James

wondering if the Igo Igo jackets are inspired by this

Can someone give me a quick rundown on what “darts” and “block patterns”? Bliss brought them up and I don’t think I fully understand it off a google search. Thanks

Don't mind if I do - DuBois would be pronounced dew-bwa. Means "of the forest" in French.

Eddie Bauer gigachad

i feel like puffy things are in these days...for example, prada shoes

It reminds me of the inflatable Issey Miyake rubber jacket

Charles James was a God.

Please, anyone who’s googled met gala or anything about fashion, really, knows Charles James. Fashion simply didn’t exist before him 😔💅

It kind of reminds me of the fusion vests in dragon ball z

Fencing to Fashion Gang

BLISSSS!!!

Guesssetss go nuuuts

Bliss! what jacket are you wearing in this video?

Interesting how innovative and incredible things tend to come out of Massive Economic Downturn... 🤔😉

This jacket is the amen break of fashion

Hey Bliss, 😂Regarding this coat I came across this book for character study. SPALDING AVIATOR’S CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT IN THE 1920 - 1930 CHECK IT OUT!

i like the jacket that you are wearing

“Weird joke” could it also maybe because it looks like it’s filled with air?

God I love your videos

omg i fenced in high school too

It's basically Charles de Blwa. Don't go too explosive on the B

3 full inches is above average, right?

plzzz do an analysis on this year´s met plzz Blisss

Amen break of fashion

Jacket’s brand please! It’s farking cool!

Where’s your jacket from

Charles james, james charles 💀

not first 😔

MONKEY THO

Wouldn’t the inspiration have been taken from Mongolian clothing?

5th

bliss fartster

u a giniuz go full pouwa

Doodads😂

Hey Ye, stop copying other designers' works, like you accused Adidas of doing to your own design.

Hair on the gusset. Literally unwearable.