It's common for those emulsion tubes to plug, however, this one ran fine afterwards. That ultrasonic cleaner usually does a good job of cleaning parts that are still inside the carb.
Thank you for your generous nature and the time to share your knowledge I have the exact same generator and replaced a broken fuel cock I can't get it started and it's driving me mad, so I'm pretty sure you've provided a solution wish me luck many thanks you're so kind
@@randomwrenching I have it all dismantled and I need to make the gasket's again as they broke away o was careful and used a Stanley blade to help them off, and I'll need to but some carborettor cleaner as I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, I know it's good Friday but my wife tested for COVID so I might as well have a go at this
Great video, very informative. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but my unit has no air filter in the air box. No paper elements for filtration? I picked it up cheep, not running. Stored with fuel in it for years. Same carburetor issues as your project. When storing it, run it dry. Then also there's a drain screw on the float bowl, beside the bowl mounting bolt. Loosen the Philip head bolt to drain the carburetor completely. Also mine has a fuel filter in the fuel tank right above the shut off valve. If you remove the valve it comes out with it. I found lots of debris on that one. I found it by accident while adding another filter to the fuel line. MORE THE BETTER.. Anyways, thanks for the great video. Keep up the great work .
Thanks for the comment! There is typically an air filter of some sort in generators, maybe not all Chinese ones though. Sometimes it's just a chunk of foam. They do deteriorate over time and can turn to mush, or dry dust. Best to check and get them out before you fire it up for testing. Generators usually have that fuel screen as part of the fuel petcock instead of an inline filter. Be sure that screen is not all varnished up, it wont allow fuel to flow.
The gen side crank seal popped out on one of mine, it's a 20x30x7 oil seal. That makes for a huge crankcase air-leak, so it wouldn't start (of course) This was an earlier model, I don't think it was the correct material for gasoline/oil. I haven't had any problem (yet) with the crank seal under the flywheel but I think it's the same size. When adjusting the engine governor speed, I use a frequency meter shooting for 60Hz at about half load, using a 500Watt incandescent shop lamp. Update, the crank seal on the generator side had been pushed out because it wasn't driven home into the case by the factory. I probably could've just driven the original seal back into position and it would've been fine but while there, I just replaced it. The replacement lip seal I chose was buna-N type rubber.
Bad crank seals are absolutely a problem especially on 2 strokes. 60hz is perfect, and about 1/2 load is a good place to check it for sure. Thanks for the great comment!
@@Tcl24valamp It you can get your hands on a known good compression gauge, there should be 100psi or mote of compression. Most any 2-stroke needs about 100psi to start and run, some will blow 90 but most blow north of 120psi. If you can't get your hands on a compression gauge, you can remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder and get a look into the cylinder and the skirt of the piston, inspect for aluminum transfer across the piston rings and scoring on the piston skirt. If you get enough premix fuel into the crankcase, spin it over with the spark plug removed and ignition switch off, you should clearly see a plume of raw fuel exit the plug hole while cranking. If not, could be the crankcase is asperating through an air leak (crankshaft lip seals, for instance) or there's a hole burned through the piston crown. I recommend 32:1 fuel:oil premix ratio to avoid piston scoring and other nasty things. Also, just because a plug sparks in air out of the cylinder, doesn't mean it sparks while in the cylinder. Try a known good or new plug. The head gasket on these is steel, I think, but if there's a leak due to lose cylinder head fasteners, it may not start and run. And last, you can pressurize the crankcase with air (no more than 7psi, else you can create leaks) block off any exits such as exhaust port and intake port, and see if it holds pressure for 10 seconds or more. Large air leaks will interfere with fueling as air enters the crankcase uncontrolled and not through the carburetor where it carries fuel into the crankcase and delivers fuel to the cylinder. I bet a lot of these little engines get straight-gassed (no oil).
i have same but choke on works take off choke and runs at idle throttle arm dosent speed up move back and forth throttle arm no response take carb aprt and clean will it clear it to work properly sat two years cleah tank not carb yet starts good just no throttle on choke and run arm
They are quite handy sized units for sure. I can't tell you what size engine this one has though, it was a customer repair job that has long been returned and has been working great for him.
I keep a 5gal can of non-ethanol fuel for my repairs. I treat it with 1.5x the recommend dose as it says on the Seafoam can. I just don't have the exact number in front of me. One can dumped into a full truck tank every 6 months works wonders though, I do that in my old Chevy
@@jasonsmithjcshoneybees5959 I swap out the fuel in my generator every 6 months. Treated with Seafoam. Turn the fuel off and drain the carb. Never fails to start on 1 or 2 pulls. 15 years like that on the same generator, never an issue
This one sat for a while with old gas in it, that's why it wouldn't run. If you store it properly (empty fuel system) or just start them up once in a while, it should be fine.
you must turn off fuel line when you shut them down and let them until there out of fuel, and they need to be run every 1 or 2 months or the gas gets stale and gummy/sticky
There will be 2. A main jet, and a pilot jet. Pilot is usually on top or on the side of the carb. Some are a fixed size, some (older ones) may be adjustable. The main is inside the bowl
@@randomwrenching ok thanks man! I just picked one up that hasn’t been ran in 3 years for $25 lol can’t beat that. Checked spark and it’s good so I know it’s the jets clogged up
Lap the reed body!! Mine runs like a freaking top after that and a name brand plug! I can hear the reeds leaking when running! and delete the the reed gasket, head gasket and cylinder base gasket and then it really screams!
I've done base gasket deletes on chainsaws and such. It makes a world of difference when you combine that with a timing advance. Great for experimentation, just not so good to do on a customers machine...lol. Thanks for the great comments!
