This one setting will take your 3d prints to the NEXT LEVEL! 

Do you use fuzzy skin? Will you now?

Gotta say I thought fuzzy skin was maybe useful for a grip, but never thought about the other perks. Really appreciate that - thanks!

So you are using fuzzy skin to hide ghosting. Try klipper and tuning to get as much ghostingo ut as possible

This is a really good topic. I was wanting to play around with the settings to try to match the bottom surface when I use a PEI textured plate. Thank you for the presentation and all the work you put into it. It is greatly appreciated.

I used fuzzy skin on handles for my wood and metal files, worked out excellent!

Thanks! The texture looks great! I'm going to try it now! I thought fuzzy skin was a dumb setting until I saw this! Cheers!

I did not think of that, thank you very much! Will definitely use this.

Thanks for sharing and testing different fuzzy settings! 👍 This knowledge will, definitely, help to get rid of layer lines on projects.

Thank you for trying all those different settings and layer heights, it's a great reference and I'll be saving this for later.

Thank you for making this video. From the bottom of my heart. 🙇 Did not know it could be used this way.

This is a great video - I really like the example prints that showcase what the parameters do. Will definitely use the fuzzy skin option.

This is so cool it makes the prints look so much more professional

What a well made comparison, well thought out and easy to take in, great video!

I had thought fuzzy skin was just a gimmick. Something for…as in your example of fuzzy bear. But, seeing your examples, the finer texture results reminds me a lot of SLS prints. I love that slight pebbly texture. Looks like I’m going to be doing some fuzzy experiments this week. Thanks for opening my eyes.

Nice tip. I will be using this for 2 processes. Adding tooth to the part for a Bondo layer to do super smooth parts and the other as a tooth layer for laminating other materials to the print with epoxy. Thanks

Interesting! Definitely going to use this technique in my future prints. thanks!

Thank you for experimenting on this. I've used it a few times for more organic looking prints, but never thought about dialing it in and trying to get a nice texture out of it for more practical prints. I'm really hoping to see more options for this feature become available, like being able to paint it on different surfaces in a print, have options beyond randomness (like being able to paint a stippled texture directly on a surface in the slicer), being able to put it on surfaces that need to be bonded so there's more surface area for adhesives, etc. The precision of newer printers in particular could make this a game changer. I'm about to go print a piece with the fuzz and see if it helps hold onto body filler a little better.

Thanks for this video Will, it was really helpful to me

Your a cold breeze in a hot summer. Thanks for sharing this, it helped me a lot.

Interesting setting. Since it increases surface area it could be good for post processing like spray painting. Thanks for posting! Good work!

I do use it but i would have never done all this testing. Thanks for doing the comparisons on these, so we dont have to, appreciate it.

Super helpful, thank you very much!!! I got my best results on an Anycubic S3 Mega with 0.15 resolution, 0.15 thickness and 0.25 point distance. A fine textured surface without any lines.

Hey! I loved the video, i just launched a print with a fine fuzzy skin, can't wait to see the result.

Fantastic video and hint how to improve my prints. thanks a lot for sharing!!

off to test now! thank you mate great video

bro holy fark liked and subbed clear and concise research with printed examples no shilling legit af thank you only about 4 other i watch to learn 3d printing from your now one started on an Ender 3 fully modded with linear rails, dual z klipper fw recently switched to X1C so now i am learning actual printing

It's basically dithering, very cool.

Ok so here is my opinion on this in short: I think I will try fuzzy skin more often for the neat texture it could provide, but I would never see myself using it as a means of reducing print times, nor for hiding ghosting, I just don't need it for that, resonance compensation works wonders. What do I mean? You're right we shouldn't dismiss fuzzy skin as just a gimmick, I did know it was more for creating a texture for hiding layers than imitating the look of fur, but I have also kinda dismissed it as just some whacky setting myself. I think I will try it more often for when a texture might be nice. I wan't to see how fuzzy skin may affect the look of certain materials which themselves already can have wildly different finishes/textures, like for example a glossy/shimmering PETG print might benefit from it a lot. Or the already very matt and layer-hiding PLA-CF (or any cf material) might have even more potential for making professional looking parts. But when it comes to the quality and speed "gains" I have to disagree a little bit, at least if we're talking in a more general sense and look at what features and capabilities even entry level modern 3D printers are starting to have, look at the Bambulab A1 for example. Clearly for your printer and your use case there is a big difference in the finish and print time. But from what little experience I have using fuzzy skin I know that without heavy tuning of the stock profile it's a LOT slower to print then regular outer walls. I Actually wonder what speeds your outer wall is at and if it's any different when using fuzzy skin and if just turning down the outer wall speed, so the overall time is similar, might not already greatly reduce ghosting. I did some slicing tests with a larger box shaped fan duct thing, in Orca slicer at 0.16mm layers, sliced for a P1S. I sliced the same part with identical settings besides with or without fuzzy skin (0.8mm point distance 0.3mm thickness), the normal one would take 2h23m (27m for the outer wall), and the one with fuzzy skin was thought to take 3h46(1h 49m for the outer wall). This difference was to big that one with fuzzy skin at 0.28mm layers instead of 0.16mm wasn't even faster at 2h35m. Since my printer utilizes resonance compensation and thus is moving pretty fast fuzzy skin is slowing it's down substantially to be able to reproduce the shape of the line.

Thanks for this. I did a few tests on Cura after watching this. Soon after I started printing out all the parts I will need for the Voron 2.4 3D printer I am building. Funny thing is I forgot to turn the fuzzy skin off but I really like the look and will continue to use it.

I have zero 3D printing experience, but I am ordering my first 3d printer next week (X1C) This video is going to be a great help, because I will be using fuzzy skin a lot in the future. Thanks

I’d highly recommend converting your printer to Klipper. Turn off acceleration control in Cura and do resonance tuning. Klipper resonance tuning is a game changer. The speed and quality improvements are very impressive as long as the rail bearings can keep up.

Fuzzy skin might also be interesting for installing grip tape or simple because the far greater surface area it has.

Great video. Thats some ghosting you got there. Good to see it hid them well. I'm going to use fuzzy skin more often.

fine.. you talked me into it. I'm buying a 3d printer. The fit and finish was my last hangup, I have no more excuses. Thank you actually, this is really exciting.

This seems really useful, thanks for the tip!

Great result!!!!!!!💥💥💥💥

most beautiful intro I've ever seen

D looks great!

Brilliant !

Love it will try it.

woww your amazing bro! thank so much!!

I just learned about scarf z joints, but I still like this technique for the matte finish.

Wery informative, detailed content! Thanks!

I've done a few prints with fuzzy skin, and used other settings to keep other areas smooth.

Depending on what you print and if you don't want to do manual postprocessing this is extremely nice. Using modifier blocks you can be very selective where to put it, so you don't fuzzy sliding surfaces.

Slant 3D has shown a lot of good examples of using fuzzy skin as well. Can make a product look much less like it was mass produced.

My favorite setting is setting point amount high and fuzziness to a smaller number and then your print will have a matte finish.

Cool video! I'll try out that setting soon!

This is fantastic for getting a tevtured finished. Thanks for doing the leg work!

Thanks man . What a tip !

It was very useful to me, you have gained a subscriber. Thank you so much.

Thank you, I love the look of these parts compared to the generic 3d print. Only problem I have is that I use a glass bed, so the bottoms will be smooth while the rest of the print won't be. I should probably get a PEI sheet..

WOW!! Awesome vid, got me excited to try some new prints with fuzzy skin! Keen to see more from your channel! Subbed.

Great explanation!

Looks much better, easier than sanding and filling.

Great information!!!! Thanks!

i think you cracked the code and your channel will grow alot, nice set up by the way, very clean

Really good examples - saves a ton of time and material, as opposed to me doing it from scratch. I might have to try this on some boxes that I'm mass-producing, because battling z-wobble and banding on the straight walls is getting annoying and costly. Something like this 7:13 where I believe I'm looking at 0.30mm / C / Density 4 / Pt Dist 0.25... bottom row - 3rd from left. Thanks for the info. I subbed.

If you use PVB filament and fuzzy skin, you can create an investment mould, burn out the filament completely, and then cast zamak alloy into it, to create a fuzzy-skinned metal part. Paul's Garage and Robinson Foundry have good videos about investment casting and PVB filament

I think the ones that look uniform along both axis are the best. 10/10 doesn't even look 3D printed. 2 things that are very important to how premium a product feels are texture (at least FDM) and "heft". 3D printing sucks at both. I'd say you solved problem 1, so now it would be cool if you could try solving problem too. Idk, by filling them with sand or some very low melting point metal or something.

Very interesting!!

Great tip

Great to see, thanks. I guess you have to dial 8n other point on your printer if they show like that… fuzzy is something on top of all that. Good luck

Thanks man

awesome!

HI! I'm new to 3D printing but this effect is really interesting. I tried to print a piece and got the result. Just a question (probably very stupid) about the top and bottom layers, can't you get this effect? Can it only be used on walls? Thanks for your time

Good info, thanks

For accuracy we might want subtractive fuzzy skin as an option in slicers.

I might use the fuzzy skin feature to get some texture on my parts. It's almost the equivalent of using 60 grit sandpaper

Great video,

Texture the model in blender would be better. However, I see some other issues. You may want to check your belts. Tighten them a bit as your layer lines are not consistent. You're getting under extrusions, may be time to replace the nozzle or check the flow rates. Maybe turn line width up a little bit by like 0.1 or 0.2. That doesn't really look like ghosting, so much as you can see the grid infill. Use gyroid infill at like 13%. It'll be stronger and those vertical lines will improve. For the z-seam, turn on hiding, Smart hiding isn't very smart. Also, you could get a concrete slab to set the printer on. It'll take down vibration.

Now I'm curious whether I can abuse that feature for other use cases, like simulating book spines by making the length of the waves really long. Would be great for stuff like "book nook" dioramas.

This makes me want to try fuzzy skin on parts I'm going to fill and sand. I wonder if it would aid in that process, or hinder it.

I noticed that none of the top layers had the fuzzy effect applied. Was this missed in your settings or is it a limitation of Cura? I started using the concentric pathing for top layers to make them look less "3d printed" however that fuzzy texture could be what I'm looking for it if it's possible. I would have liked to have seen that done in your video but I'll be looking to give it a try at home myself to see what's possible. Thanks for the video.

Need to test this with matte filament.

It seems you are mainly using fuzzy skin to fix things that would be better fixed by tuning or upgrading the printer. If you have that much ghosting then you may have the speed and acceleration set too high, to fix it you could turn it down or add input shaping, either through marlin (I don’t know how good it is now) or through Klipper. Adding Klipper does not have to be expensive, all it really needs is some kind of computer like a raspberry pi and an accelerometer on the print head. One thing I don’t like about fuzzy skin is that it only does it on the outermost wall, that leaves loads of tiny gaps between the walls of the print which won’t be great for strength or durability, if it applied the same fuzziness to the inside walls too then it would help the walls be more solid and stronger. A lot of injection moulding parts are smooth and this doesn’t really replicate injection moulding finishes you can definitely still tell it is 3D printed. Fuzzy skin is good for grip though or any time you need a rough surface but using it to just try and hide print defects or the fact it is 3D printed doesn’t seem worth it to me, I would rather fix the issues as much as possible for when I need to print a part and can’t use fuzzy skin, which would be the majority of parts that I print.

I am gonna make 3d printed steering wheel for sim drifting so should i use fuzzy skin?

🙏 thank you

Since the fuzzy feature came out I’ve used it anytime I print wood filament, in addition to petg when I don’t want the print to be so shiny

Great idea mate! but I'm worried that having this matte finish with fuzzy skin will cost me on the lifetime of the motor 😮. Can we compare the cost of this method with the cost of using matte filament instead?

you should use your camera's mic for your voice overs.. it was much clearer. and if you use a low pass over filter to get rid of that "fuzz"

This will be great for gun parts.

Have you looked at Orca Slicer? Was going to just play with it 3 months ago, 2 days later I uninsatalled Cura :)

What printer are you using for these tests? Looks like a speed printer that is not shown from your older videos!

Call the "witch_thumb_test" and make it a standard benchmarking tool like the benchy!

A question, I'm trying the fluzzy skin on a cube with Creality Print but it only prints it on 3 sides of the cube, there is a smooth one and I can't find an option for it to do all four, any ideas? In the other laminators does it do all 4? Thank you

Nice.

I’m curious what printer are you using, that ringing in the Z seams are the most I’ve ever seen, either you got a poorly maintained printer or a factory dud

This would actually be really good bases for minis, sand water grass textures

Now we need a super granular slicer that can assign a different point distance per face

Unsure whether this also holds for Cura (who the heck still uses Cura), but in OrcaSlicer you can combine vase-mode with fuzzy skin. That not only gives a special surface effect, but also makes a "straight" vase-mode the wall more stiff as the parts sticking out make the total wall wider.

Can it be defined so that some faces have a fuzzy texture while others do not? You accidentally made that happen on a part and then rotated it away. I can see this being useful when purposefully done. I imagine it's done just like switching to a different filament but without actually switching and purging etc., and I could see this being cool for making a grippy part on an otherwise exactly-sized model. One use case would be a container or a phone case with a textured outside and a smooth inside.

It's there any way to choose where a part is or isn't fuzzy? For instance, if you print a container where you need dimensional accuracy on the inside but the fuzzy texture on the outside.

How do you add fuzzy to the top & bottom layers only on a flat object?

hi, i use cura but cant seem to find the fussy skin. do i need to update something?

TBH I'm a bit tired of ppl telling klipper here and there. Klipper is not the magic solution to all issues (Marlin has its own input shaper implementation since v2). If you get such massive ghosting etc, it's probably because your printer is not well tuned or you're simply asking too much. Even an old and ugly A8 can give out decent prints. And yeah, fuzzy skin is a good way to hide problems : D

Thanks for sharing that! Good points, nice examples and didn't waste time teaching how the like and subscribe buttons work! (I liked and subscribed) (because I wanted to)

The same setting I came up today. Fuzzy, lightning, 0.3. what a coincidence.

What you did not cover is that some forms of glue would benefit from MORE surface for the glue to adhere too (not super thin glues but the gel types) secondly some forms of gluings have a sort of shock absorbing effect where others would sheer apart, pop apart. There are applications where to super flush fitting parts do not withstand impact when glues together.

i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S