Welcome to Will's of the Maker! If you like building things, designing things, and learning this channel is for you! I will take on projects relating to 3d printing, arduino, woodworking, cars, life hacks and mixing them all together to make some really cool and functional stuff. I will go through the entire process from concept, design, and production to help you learn!
Also, there is a big project in the works, converting a Sprinter into the ultimate campervan! Make sure to be subscribed to watch the build process.
Its a solid printer and possibly reliable. Print quality is not the greatest. I guess need some adjustments. I own Creality K1C and is really fast. I printed a lot on that printer and so far it has been great. Saved me so much time.
Thank you, I love the look of these parts compared to the generic 3d print. Only problem I have is that I use a glass bed, so the bottoms will be smooth while the rest of the print won't be. I should probably get a PEI sheet..
I have zero 3D printing experience, but I am ordering my first 3d printer next week (X1C) This video is going to be a great help, because I will be using fuzzy skin a lot in the future. Thanks
It looks like one of the issues that your printer has is too low of a current on the x and y motors. It looks like you have layer shifting that could be resolved by increasing the current to your motors. Since you increased the tension of the belts, I thought that would have resolved some of the issue, but you might want to try adjusting the motor current. I hope this helps.
There is a much better fix… Replace the poor quality motors in your printer with much higher quality ones… Software is not a fix for poor hardware selection.
It might me time to upgrade your printer. The non fuzzy skin prints look horrific. Your machine must be made out of a potato. My prints have no ghosting at all.
This is a great video, I especially like your systematic approach with the tables to compare and the special test pieces. I wonder a little about some comments like" you have a poor printer" or "with clipper you nowadays have not such problems". First of all, it's a good idea to get the best out of the hardware you have. Also, from my point of view, it makes sense to get to the bottom of these problems like ghosting and understand them. Klipper does a similar thing in the end to avoid these effects. You shouldn't let know-it-alls get you down, I think both the approach and the execution of these videos are very good. And even if the fuzzy skin video had the idea of compensating for a few shortcomings, in the end it is a great video with the result of using the technology to get a different kind of printing surface. Please keep going creating such great content.
Thanks so much! Very kind words. But ya there is a lot of great new tech that almost makes this moot. But people still have older machines or cheaper machines that might not be so feature rich so still good to know some of this stuff. I've had to focus on a couple other things (starting a business selling 3d prints I create) but should try and get back to video production soon!
i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S
Is it in one axis? Like purely X or purely Y? If so you need to tune your steps per mm. Check out www.layerfused.com/3d-printer-calibration for a good calculator. I'd say RU-vid how to do it with Bambu. I'm not sure how to do that on those printers
Texture the model in blender would be better. However, I see some other issues. You may want to check your belts. Tighten them a bit as your layer lines are not consistent. You're getting under extrusions, may be time to replace the nozzle or check the flow rates. Maybe turn line width up a little bit by like 0.1 or 0.2. That doesn't really look like ghosting, so much as you can see the grid infill. Use gyroid infill at like 13%. It'll be stronger and those vertical lines will improve. For the z-seam, turn on hiding, Smart hiding isn't very smart. Also, you could get a concrete slab to set the printer on. It'll take down vibration.
TBH I'm a bit tired of ppl telling klipper here and there. Klipper is not the magic solution to all issues (Marlin has its own input shaper implementation since v2). If you get such massive ghosting etc, it's probably because your printer is not well tuned or you're simply asking too much. Even an old and ugly A8 can give out decent prints. And yeah, fuzzy skin is a good way to hide problems : D
Yup printer is old and hadnt been tuned in a while when i made this video. So perfect example to show the improvement. My next video was all about tuning it :)
Thanks! Day 1 (half day) down and happy with it so far. Sold probably 20-25% of what I've made. Tomorrow is the big day for crowd size and it's all day too. Hope to sell out :)
bro holy fark liked and subbed clear and concise research with printed examples no shilling legit af thank you only about 4 other i watch to learn 3d printing from your now one started on an Ender 3 fully modded with linear rails, dual z klipper fw recently switched to X1C so now i am learning actual printing
Haha thanks man! Good work with the ender upgrades. Definitely helps really understand how these things work. Good luck and glad to have you aboard. Tons to learn!
This is my next printer. Wish they'd make one 12" cubed or close to that. Could be 12" x 10" x 8" . Open frame corexy even better. Show us a gallery of print images with filament type!
They are higher than the pumpkin. The driveshaft starts out above the side steps until about halfway when the drive shaft angles down. So basically front half of the van, these are the low point but after that it becomes the axle/drive shaft
I think a printer not older than Jesus might also help. Id say its relatable to have a more minimal printer but that's just old junk. New printer don't even compare to LulzBot trash.
Hi everyone, if you are interested in the model used in this video, I just posted it to Thangs.com Check it out: thangs.com/designer/WilloftheMaker/3d-model/1033464
Try a block of cement instead of tpu you have low weight in comparison to a car so just trying to stop it outright should be a help and for the 80's car that bounces its the stuts that are bad not the springs if it was the sping your ride hight would drop due to not being able to support the weight of the car anymore
I think in a cement block will be more helpful with multiple machines next to each other (like I have now). Definitely not the spring in the 80s car example. I mentioned the shock absorbers being shot causing that as there is nothing to dampen the energy. struts are a combo spring and shock
Great idea mate! but I'm worried that having this matte finish with fuzzy skin will cost me on the lifetime of the motor 😮. Can we compare the cost of this method with the cost of using matte filament instead?
It's honestly hard to do. The amount of fuzziness and exterior walls makes a big difference. So heavily model and settings dependent. I'd recommend slicing a model without fuzzy skin, then slicing with the settings you want and compare the material amount difference as well as the time difference. See how much the price in normal material is but with fuzzy and compare to matte material without fuzzy
You've started tuning in the wrong direction. You already have an elephant foot, missing layers and layers of movement. (based on the video). It would help if you went back to the temp/fun tower, checked retraction, and checked the hot-end and extrusion rate. You definitely have some issues with mechanical parts. Vibrations shouldn't have much effect on this speed and acceleration(they're creating most of the vibrations). You have pretty bad results with low speed.
The issues you mention with missing layers and movement were largely due to that filament. Same gcode and their gone with other rolls. That roll had multiple tangles and was generally inconsistent diameters. Kinda why I used it for this to not waste good filament.
Can it be defined so that some faces have a fuzzy texture while others do not? You accidentally made that happen on a part and then rotated it away. I can see this being useful when purposefully done. I imagine it's done just like switching to a different filament but without actually switching and purging etc., and I could see this being cool for making a grippy part on an otherwise exactly-sized model. One use case would be a container or a phone case with a textured outside and a smooth inside.
There are some ways to it. I cura it's a bit clunky but you can essentially create overlapping geometries that have their own modified settings. Probably the best way to do it. Or have it be similar to a multi material set up with different bodies and choose settings individually from that. You can also set fuzzy skin to outside only to not affect inside geometries which could work for a phone case
Thanks for sharing that! Good points, nice examples and didn't waste time teaching how the like and subscribe buttons work! (I liked and subscribed) (because I wanted to)
