little tip on the window ,instead of wasting money on plastic covers that only go misty after a week or so , just use glass ,and with about 1/2 air cap to a fine wire mess sheet just below the glass .this will stop the media from etching the glass this method was used on the old snap on cabinets back in the day and worked really well . why they stopped using that system i have no idea .
All good suggestions, the only thing I might add is that even better than a ball valve on the pistol is a foot pedal to operate it. It keeps your hand from cramping up on the pistol but still allows you to reduce air consumption. It can make a big difference if your compressor is struggling to keep up.
Nice upgrades. I am doing something very similar to my new blasting cabinet before I use it. I use a commercial cabinet for work. So I'm doing mine similar to your setup just a bit different. Like your video. Very helpful.
Clear plastic disposable covers for the glass. Carbide tips. Your gun idea is great but there are other ways. Aggressive abrasive. Dust control. Good lights. All make for happy blasting. Thanks!
The outlet for dust extraction is on the left hand side, the cover you made isn’t necessary, I’ve only just purchased one of these cabinets and with one of the cyclone attachments on a bucket, the extraction works way better than expected, no cloud at all, perfectly clear. I like your idea about the rivet nuts, I have a set of those already so will definitely fit those to mine. I’ve ordered a different gun where the media comes in at 45° rather than 90°. Foot pedal is my next mod.
I built a slow flow cyclone vacuum pump to remove the dust. ( it also stops grit from coming out of the door, seams etc . Negative pressure) Then I added a foot control for the air. My compressor has several moisture traps.
Another fantastic job for sure. Let me add one more tip that will make you very satisfied. I had to often change my glass. As it would get etched. Walmart sells clear shelving paper. That the blast material bounces off of and leaves no etching. So it is easier to see clearly.
On the extraction I`m using a 4 inch fan 80 watts with a variable speed control to get it just right.. Hope it works. Need to steal an old bucket from work. :)
The people who spray paint the floor at home Depot are taggers. High-end taggers can get fancy spray paint with a plethora of different tip styles. The lower end of the hobby uses cheap spray paint. Cheap spray paint has tips that vary widely. No two spray the same. The taggers are testing the cans to see which batch code has good tips. Sometimes it's moronic teenagers, other times it's a subculture of urban art that you just don't happen to be familiar with.
I altered the existing gun. The tip is 1/4", but Princess Auto doesn't seem to carry that size any more. I'll likely just make replacement tips out of steel.
I have a cheap generic blast cabinet . I run it with a shop vac attached. The lower internal pressure stops dust from escaping. Solves all the problems. Stavros
I've just done the same media mod, for some reason I'm not picking up any media no matter how much PSI or how open or closed my valve is, any idea what im doing wrong?
@@GregWellwood Admittedly the grit is old and has been lying a while, ive ordered some new stuff so hopefully it does the trick, failing new grit im stumped?
Being stateside - Harbor Freight is the standard sir, Princess Auto is an "equivalent" as the name implies you buy stuff for chicks there. Just kidding ya pal. Awful hard on the kids, ey? Most kids these days(and those prior days) hail from fatherless homes so they haven't the foggiest about shop equipment, be kind, it costs you little/nothing and means so much to so many:)
Brother, dont know if you read the comments, but those NUTSERTS SUCK .LOL..I WENT to princess auto, got yhe kit. Shitty kit. Ended up using gasket sealent and i used self tapping screws...lol
What happened with them? I used the PA nutserts and PA gun on mine, as well as many of my projects and they have worked for me. Mind you, I wrecked a few early on as I figured out how to use them properly.
Same trick works just as well on a cabinet. Also, if you replace the t fitting with a long sweep y fitting you will be able to run the air higher and pick up more sand. Any turn in an air flow system just kills the efficiency. You would be better off using PEX if you cannot find the y fitting in steel. Don't get me wrong, PEX is shit
I did the IUD paper clip today, and blasted the '61 C10 roof for five hours. At no point did I need to shut the air to the hose to clear it out, but I did need to play with the abrasive feed to find a new happy spot. I ~think~ it was a success, certainly no detriment that I notice. Thanks for the suggestion!
Do you mean the air connection at the gun? I did initially have it poking out the back, but I found the gun too long and cumbersome that way - though I did have a rag-tag collection of reducers and adapters to make it all work with stuff I had on the shelf. If you do mean at the gun, I can try the way I had it before and compare.
@@GregWellwood I made the comment when I saw the t fitting under the cabinet. Later I saw the same issue with the gun. My suggestion was for most of the plumbing. You lose a shocking amount of efficiency every time air has to turn a corner. This is also an opportunity for this sand to drop out of the air. If all of your connections are long smooth sweeps, you will get much better performance. Doesn't have to be PEX, but you commented that you like the additional flexibility going to the gun. If it were me, I would do PVC all the way up until the gun whip and switch to PVC there. You particularly need a long sweep why fitting in place of the tee.
I haven't run a lot of different media. Glass bead leaves a smoother finish; nickel slag was supposed to be more aggressive but did nothing to cast iron exhaust manifolds (but that was before the mods). I tend to stick with crushed glass - it's very cheap, it's reasonably aggressive, and the more you use it, the finer grit it becomes.
