Thoughts on stock sanding 

Agreed. I always learn something watching Mark.

Now I wreckon, depending on the Ass, that could go either way.

Agreed, that last scene with the stain was 🤯

Was thinking same thing. "Damn, that's pretty."

In this case wet mopping the workroom is more like rearranging and organizing all the sandpaper by grit and type

Dear God! Tru oil is illegal in Kalifornia? I'm glad I live in Georgia. Take Care friend, greetings from free America, John

They're great and you get a better finish than what non-obsessive sanding gets you.

hi scrapers are extremely good at taking off raised grain and flattening a surface, much better in fact at that bit than sand paper.

Gunsmiths seem to be the primary users of wood scrapers (edit) _today._

@@ScottKenny1978 Clue for you! In the UK we call these cabinet scrapers... There was a time when, after you had done with the smoothing plane, it was this or the sharkskin...

@@davidpowell5437 yes, historically correct. I probably should have added the word "today" to my previous comment, because I don't know a lot of woodworkers that use scrapers today. Don't know any personally, and only know a few by reputation. The ones I do know of are all about using the traditional tools.

I picked up alot of my woodworking skills from an uncle who was an English cabinet maker, who had picked up gunsmithing as a hobby. In the UK they are much more common, and used much more extensive. But power sanders and plains have replaced cabinet scrapers in many professional cabinet makers tool kits today, even in UK. You can do a much nicer job with cabinet scrapers, and actually remove much much less material. But at the end of the day, the job a power sanders does in a commercial setting are good enough, and time is money.

Glad you enjoy it!

Dive...Dive....Awooooooga Get to it, and I mean that

I’ve purchased a few firearms over the years that were good shooters , but nothing to look at and these were the firearms I learned on.. My first few stock jobs were roached out SKSs with cracked stocks . Stock work is so fun , the results are right in front of you when you are done, it’s pretty rewarding .

Until you drop it. How would I know that?!

Man, Oh Man. Now I know why I'm trying to improve...

I would sacrifice a corn fed bubba to get a stock that pretty...

@@monkeyship74401 hahahahaha

The reason your stock is rolled off is probably the same reason your buttplate shows no sanding marks. The butt plate wasn't on the stock when it was sanded, that's my guess. Sounds like a nice find.

@@tubeonline629 I agree. I have a few other older rifles that exhibit the same characteristic, those also have steel buttplates. My rifles with non-steel buttplates all have properly contoured stocks. I don't know how that 94 made it through 74 years in such good condition. I actually walked away from it the first day I saw it, thought about it overnight and called the shop the next morning. Glad I did.

@@tubeonline629 Well, I dug out my 1937 vintage 52, the reason the stock is rolled is that it has about an inch and a half cut off of it, probably for a female shooter. I've been searching the interwebs for a replacement stock but so far no luck. I did find a new one from Gunville.com, it is close but I need to get a better picture from them. At $142.75 it is priced pretty nicely.

I could send you some links that would change your mind... 🤣

Guessing that’s for a high gloss polished looking finish? And ting oil everything past those 2 coats of linseed oil?

I can report that this does work now that I've done it, concur with this.

I woodn't go there..........

Sharpen the pole pruner as if they are a standard set of scissors. Glad I could clear that up for you....

@@marknovak8255 Thanks Mark! I do greatly appreciate your channel.

I sand in with 400, then buff back with a scotchbrite. As you said, I only have the time the customer buys

This is where a scraper shines. the scraper will remove wood, but in broad swaths which avoids deep scratches.

You should watch it 3 times, Ya never know.... :)

He makes everything look rather easy but I know I'd muck it up. I think it's just a matter of more experience on his part

Its really not bad, if you have a hard time getting a square edge, you can make/get a jig that will hold the file at 90 degrees to the face.

If a scraper alone won't do it, try a heat gun to soften the varnish. Be gentle with the heat, grasshopper.

Watch the furniture makers in Williamsburg Va. Use only scrapers since sand paper was invented during that time period

@@Psynova Definitely. Make sure it's a good strong blade. Not all razor blade can take lateral forces very well like that of scraping because they're heat treated to preserve the edge. which in turn can, and often does, make them brittle. I mean they're hardware store razor blades not a competition cutter or a huge Bowie knife.

Just use one of these white “wonder sponges” afterwards, slightly wet, gets everything out of the wood pores.

You can use any piece of sheetmetal… the housing on a VCR, old computer and so on. Use a pair of tin snips to cut a square out. Using snips to cut will automatically put that kerf on the edge to scrape with.

Sorry about my fat finger misspelling. Its sipposed to be sharpened salad fork. I just think those analogies are so funny and convey the knowledge.

@@tjo4087 OUTSPHANDING!

Thanks for the info, it says this product is for prep before painting/varnishing. Is that how you use it or do you prefer it on it's own?

@@endutubecensorship there’s two products that are very similar Benite and Ship-n-shore both can be used as a sealer in prep for a top coat. Shop-n-shore however can be used as a stand alone product and is water proof after two coats. It soaks in and doesn’t emulsify like you’d expect a lacquer or poly to build. I’ve done a couple gun stocks but mostly furniture, dining room tables and chairs and so forth. For tables and furniture I sand to 800 then apply a coat let it dry and the sand at 1000 and apply a second coat let that dry and then actually use the ship-n-shore and wet sand at 1200 using the product as the wetness not water. Then polish the snot out of the piece once that third sanded coat is dry. Yeah it’s labor as hell and if your customers like what you do then keep up the good work but maybe grab a piece of scrap and give it a go. If you show it to a customer and they like it and don’t mind the price tag they brag like crazy. After three jobs with the above method word got around and it’s basically all I do now. There’s another product called Osmo that I like very much for a matte finish but it’s not as requested. The other finish style folks find really amazing is benite (the sealer) then as a top coat I used automotive clear coat. It’s tricky to work with but is hard as a rock and super thin. It is very important to use the Benite as it prevents a lot of the expansion and contraction of the wood that is the primary enemy when applying the automotive clear coat to wood.

@@endutubecensorship if you get into the trend of epoxy tables for some reason I recommend going all the way up to 5000 grit (sold at automotive paint supply houses) then polish. The real trick at the higher grits is being absolutely certain you got the swirl gone from the previous stage. You also go through progressively more pads or sheets as each step is about 15-20% less efficient than the last. But that’s what billing “time and materials” is for. The kind of customer that wants this kind of thing is also fortunately the kind that can afford it...usually.

@@charleshetrick3152 Thank you very much for the detailed reply! I look forward to trying it out.

@@endutubecensorship glad to. Side note, for contour sanding I do use the scotch bright pads which go up to the equivalent of about 320 grit. Be fastidious about removing the little hair that might shed. The Osmo clogs sandpaper damn quick. If you try the Osmo be certain to follow their instructions re sanding. For the first application if I remember right it’s 150 grit then apply I’ve had it fail before when I figured “stupid manufactures, what do they know?” After the first application you can go higher grit.

Hey Monkeyship, is Wollarock where they have one of the first 12 US Army Colt 1911’s? (Technically 1910s)

That was just water. It replicates/simulates what the finish will look like in the end

@@wolfmac3923 OK. I think need to research what they were using at the time or dive in with TruOil and get a large buffer wheel and convert my bench grinder.