It’s tip no 1 and only. Cause you need to do your best to not to ruin breathtaking view, but if there’s no something real interesting to make a photo of, you can’t do anything, no matter what you do.
@@vrcshortys152 when you can shoot low iso of course shoot low iso. But at the end of the day 99% of the time I'd rather have a higher iso picture that's not blurred because of motion blur or camera shake. Of course there is no point in going from say 1/125 to 1/4000 by boosting iso for a still subject
Don’t use small apertures. If your pixels are small enough (like 24mp+ on apsc or 62mp+ on full frame) f11 or smaller will show diffraction even if you have the optically perfect lens. Your lens quality matters too. Use best aperture for your lens & camera (typically f8) and focus bracketing if needed
Exactly! F/8 is about as low as you should go. These days, using a good lens, anything lower than f/5.6 will give you no performance gains. Also, if it's landscape like he showed your focus is near infinity, depth of field discussion is a waste of time. Better to have stability!
If you have Apo lens stopping down wont effect your image quality 💁🏼♂️ also how about large format where you usually shoot between f5.6 and f64 hmm? 😅😅
@@balintmerk1509 apo lens does not do anything with diffraction but chromatic abbreviation. Diffraction comes from aperture being small and photons projected an airy disk. it’s a physics limitation that cannot be ‘fixed’ unless get rid of the aperture itself Yes larger pixels will reduce the effect of diffraction. But for most full frame (and smaller) sensor users please check your pixel size and diffraction limit. Normally f16 will yield a softer image due to diffraction
@@balintmerk1509 I’m a little late to the game, but to add some nuance to the discussion, whether or not diffraction becomes visible in the final image pretty much comes down to the aperture setting and how much enlargement there is between the image projected onto the sensor and the final print or display (and viewing distance to the display). A larger format sensor needs less enlargement to get to a given print or display size so can tolerate a higher f-number. If you search for “print resolution calculator” you’ll find a calculator on the Points in Focus blog that attempts to calculate a *suggested* maximum aperture setting for a given combination of print size, viewing distance, and sensor format. That said the tool does partially agree with what you are getting at, in that you can get away with much smaller apertures and lower resolutions for a vast majority of real world situations (i.e not pixel peeping).
It’s a higher aperture than I’m likely to shoot at, but to be fair, if you print out an uncropped image taken at f/14 on full frame system, a person with 20/20 vision won’t really be able to see diffraction softening unless they are standing quite a bit closer than the diagonal size of the print. Whether or not full-frame f/14 is acceptable really depends on your artistic goal: to take in the whole scene at once it’s fine, but to be able to print big and let the viewer step closer in to pick out the little details it provably won’t work as well.
Don't listen to this. Don't use higher then f8. It introduces diffraction for minimal optical gain. You don't need absolutely everything in focus f5.6 or 8 is more then enough without hurting the quality of your lens
Some lenses loses sharpness beyond f11 dye to diffraction. Do some research about lenses you own and figure out what the best aperture setting is for the maximum clearity.
•in no exact order. Find a beautiful area Lowest iso for Shutter speed Buy great Prime Lenses Tripod, Timers. Learn composition Learn Editing techniques Powerful Computer / lots RAM
Oh, sweetie… Am I going to have to be the one to explain to you that what you were referencing is portrait ORIENTATION?! Just because you turn the camera vertical, does not make it a portrait. It means you shot the LANDSCAPE in portrait orientation.
F stop I find really depends but yeah 8-14 work very well for landscape however I’ve seen incredible stuff done with both sides. That’s why you always remember that in photography the rules will get you a good photo but breaking them will get you a great photo
First one isn’t a good tip, on higher res sensor (I.e a7iv,a7rv,a1,z7ii,r5,…) you will start to get diffraction at F8 which reduces the overall quality of textures. Just go up to max F9…
I picked up a Canon T7 Dslr not T7i because well budget and I want to learn the basics without any extra help at first. With full kit and I picked up a ef-50mm 1.8 aka nifty fifty lens im all in 600$ USD…. That comes with efs-18-55 and 75-300mm zoom… plenty for me for awhile to get started. I shot raw and it honestly takes awesome photos for the price. Hope that helps a bit. Some people will have other opinions but this is all I know for now lol
You're kinda misleading people about the LOW ISO... what if it's windy and people then get blurred photos because of movement? How about focus stacking, how about using a tripod? You don't want to use LOW ISO if you're shooting handheld. You won't get as sharp as photos. ISO 800 is good for hand held 😉
I disagree with the ISO. Using the lowest possible ISO can hurt ur image performance. It’s important to use the native ISO of your camera to get the maximum amount of dynamic range. On dual ISO cameras I prefer the lower native ISO.
leading lines, rule of thirds, misty conditions can separate a subject from a busy/distracting background, long exposures to smooth out ripples on water/ get the effect of movement in waterfalls. Photography is much more than just settings
He suggests f-14 and f-8, turn down to either, it’s what looks good, f stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
@@flotin2803 lol I’ve been shooting for 40 years. I was being a big of a ass on how someone can just throw out numbers without any type of explanation as of why.
Been working as a prof photographer for 2 years and nvr needed photoshop. I find unless you're doing specialized photos or have to rly manipulate then photoshop isn't worth it
I think photoshop is only really necessary for focus stacking, if you really want that, some astrophotography, or special pictures. I don't know if you meant that you don't use something like lightroom either but I feel like that's kind of necessary
F-stop just let’s more or less light in f-16 is usually the he highest you would go being the least amount of light f-1/2 would be the most only used in very dark situations
Depends on lens, typically 3 stops below the maximum aperture will be the sharpest. For landscapes you want a high field of view which means high f stop.
Best way, people are obsessed with what settings to use when auto exposure is usually good enough and is there for a reason.. You shoot more photos that way and improve quicker than everyone else arguing over ISO nonsense
I just set the settings to what seems good before shooting then use that for the whole time. Then just use the wheel to change shutter speed if I need to
