Because only with a 3d printer you'll have this gears. Like me to repair a two-zone clima controller, left side, with a 3d printed gear... But if you can't find these plastic pieces, you must change the complete piece...
It seems you are an expert. can you please advise? I have a Passat 2 L Diesel 2013, while downhill with engine break engine fault signal came on. mechanic read error codes: P219600, O2 sensor (bank 1, sensor 1), System too rich, status [237] and P012100, Throttle-valve position sensor, signal improbable, status [096]. he then cleared and let me go to see if it comes back. It did about 500 miles later downhill tempomat / cruise control on. some suggest it is the throttle valve started dying and needs to be replaced. car runs nicely smoothly same powerful as before. What do you think what should I do. Throttle house £ 250-350, position sensor (good for a lot of makes) £20, throttle repair kit ~£50, The car also has got a major service a month before. can it be a dirt from the filter/engine. Would a valve cleaning solve the issue? Thank you for any advice.
my gears are fine but the shaft is binding. Not sure if there's corrosion on the bushing or what. I'm unclear what's happening when you drive out the shaft. My non-gear side has a metal cover or seal over where you'd drive out the shaft. Does that have to be drilled out? And then what about the shaft bushings, spaces etc.? Is it as simple as it looks in the video? Can all those parts be reused? Than you!
update: Shaft and throttle body were clean but binding in a couple spots. After a full day/night Kroil soaking (and occasional manipulation of the shaft), it freed up. I lubed it well with synthetic oil, added the flap back (fyi, the two bolts holding the flap the shafte are M3 with a weird head. They're loctited on (red, probably) with light peening of the threaded end after it comes through the shaft. When I removed them, one sheared off and I had to drill it out. I replaced it with bike derailleur b-tension screw I had in my parts bin. I used locktite and peened them once in stalled (you do not want this this screw backing out and getting sucked into your intake!). We'll see how it this goes and how long it lasts.
how easily should the valve move? I thought it can be pushed VERY (this "VERY" is important here :D ) easily by hand and after disassembling my faulty valve i found that i have to apply quiet a force to move it. It opens/closes smoothly, i can feel and hear the mechanism inside how smooth it is, i just have to apply a lot of force to move it. Is it normal or is it a sign of fault? Is it possible to measure the motor somehow if it is good or not? (by multimeter on the pins?) Thing is that i am not a mechanic. But mechanic had to replace this part in my car (he did not play with it since he does not have time to play trying, he just replaces and goes on) and since its quiet expensive part i took it home and just cleaned it, removed a lot of carbon stuff and wanted to inspect if it could be repaired - or maybe the cleaning was enough, but i cant try it in any car (since i am not a mechanic and dont want to mess with my car). I have removed the four screws but its still holding near where the black connector is. I was afraid i break something but its the same valve as yours and according to your video there are no other screws so i might have to try harder :)
A4 B8 2.0 TDI (CAGC) - I have rough idle (engine shaking badly, seems to work louder, noticeable vibrations inside of cabin), rev gauge is not fluctuating, rough idle happens random, and after pressing acc. pedal for few times or driving for a short time it becomes normal... does anyone have any idea why this is happening? I need to clean EGR valve (i think it is dirty), i tried to clean "throttle body" myself long time ago but later on i've read that butterfly plate inside is not good to touch or push, and i was pushing and releasing many times while cleaning, it is possible that i damaged my TB ? Also, i noticed engine temperature gauge is reaching 90 deg really slow and if i turn on heating it goes back to 70...60... degree.. I used vag-com to check high pressure and it is fluctuating it seems... no errors!
