Thunder Tiger engines are absolutely the best. they have great performance, really long service life and are definitely reliable. Their carburetors are relatively easy to adjust. Absolutely the best performance/price ratio. If you use a quality glow plug and good fuel, they will serve you well for a long time. Thunder Tiger engines have been my favorite for about 25 years! I had 25GP, 40PRO, 36PRO, 42GP and I have 61GP. 🙂
Yes Thunder Tiger engines are nice, but I do not agree that they are the best. OS engines from the 80-90’s were much better in my experienced opinion, with Enya being the next best for two strokes.
...good demo! Came here to check out the TT pro 46 because I Just won a ebay bid on one of these engines for $68 (NIB too!) Looks powerful, and @ 13k rpm static that's fairly impressive for being stock! After seeing it's test stand performance I'm really looking forward to installing mine in a vintage Flite Line Scat-Cat Quickie 500 model. With an APC 9-6 prop and 15% it should scream a little bit! Thanks!
Your videos are very informative. I have a Thunder Tiger Pro 61 and was wondering how you tune the low-speed needle right now the motor idles fine but transitions from idle to wide open throttle there's a little hesitation is this rich or lean thanks
Hi David I like all of your videos I have a problem with my thunder tiger it's burning out my glow plugs could you advise me what plug to us I live in the tropics
Any name brand 2 stroke plug should work. If you are blow plugs then either your tuning is incorrect or the fuel is wrong. I usually use OS #8 plugs, but the plug should be selected based on the fuel you are running. www.hooked-on-rc-airplanes.com/rc-glow-plugs.html
It is a PSP Mfg test stand that is no longer made or available le. www.google.com/search?rls=en&sxsrf=ALiCzsZ7MnTWqVVu924u_nCtU9mDdtGGzQ:1670798748927&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=PSP+MFG&client=safari&fir=fJq01kN7jUYHcM%252Cv5NN77qIwOGJFM%252C_%253B2U85LP46sz2sZM%252C5S0r5G5Rcp3TBM%252C_%253B7gqwsNwmeun5dM%252CC4XUvZk0FWtSZM%252C_%253BtfvFifdgGh2cDM%252CN9sD48HWHWvphM%252C_%253BIj9wFztVhmnuFM%252C5S0r5G5Rcp3TBM%252C_%253BmL7-b7ornTRAzM%252Cv5NN77qIwOGJFM%252C_%253BjI6eSuWRw5c1wM%252CN9sD48HWHWvphM%252C_%253BBfsjfS-5cOB43M%252CYHKnIWMSTmvrKM%252C_%253Bh3w_5kT4QwW-ZM%252Cbm86W0Slaul7eM%252C_%253B4fNtsNCBUXEMsM%252Cwgldjk3maa-6zM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kQnJ0PINTWdEo4DbeS_kmVLq0Aq8g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwid0K6v0vL7AhVmjIkEHWkNCKgQjJkEegQIEhAC&biw=1280&bih=659&dpr=2
Hi David, how did you get the prop thrust washer back on. I tried to put it on by tightening the prop to drive it on but it pushed the bronze tapered bearing out. Thanks John
I do not recall how this engine is setup with regards to the drive thrust washer. Typically a tapered bronze bushing is installed first then the drive washer put on. it is not possible for the tapered collar to come back out.
I see, how do you install the bushing with minimal tools. I tried to install the bushing while it was in the drive washer, which made it push out the front end just enough so the crankshaft will not turn without a lot of effort. Thanks for the very quick replies!
There are no tools required to slip the tapered bushing onto a crankshaft. I don't have that engine anymore so I cannot look at mine to assist you any further. I just have never needed any tools at all to put the drive washer on an engine. Look through some of my other instructional videos. Chances are you will find what you need to see in one of them.
Thanks Dave, I just got it on. I should have removed the bushing before installing it, then install the drive washer on to the bushing already on the crank. Thanks again, I know for next time. John
