I use rope, too,, often, and think that its availability and versatility are unmatched. Thank you for confirming. Also, you added 2 tricks that I will use, from now on. The slip knot at the anchor point is great, and, the twist at the attachment point is excellent!!!! Great, great stuff! Thank you very much, thank you for posting!
Great video. Sometimes when I am securing a a load of hay I will put the tension loop in and the do another tension loop to get it even tigher. Similar to a double pulley.
This is a lifehack that every father should teach their children or teacher must show their class. Excellent video sir, thank you for sharing your wisdom. Mahalo
Thanks for watching and writing Phil A. Sounds like you may be from the beautiful state of Hawaii! Been there several times...amazing! You are so right about the lost lessons that used to be taught from father to son. Once a generation misses these lessons, it's like starting a tradition over again. I was fortunate that I had a father that expected me to make the things I wanted - thus my love for being self-reliant. Keep watching and writing my friend. Best to you, DFJ
Thanks for watching and commenting Ru Miranda. I get comments like yours rather often from viewers that grew up without a father figure to teach them things. I myself didn't have a father growing up until I was 16 and my mom married again. He is a wonderful man who adopted me legally when I was 16. He is in his eighties now and a treasure the time we have left each time we are together. Best, DFJ
I was shown a few knots to tie that I had to learn at the job I had when tying the first knot. One that comes undone pretty easy , if it’s tied right , is the bowline . The last knot you showed to tighten the load is a great help. I used to tie a loop in the middle like you showed and I know by experience it is hard to get it out when taking the load loose.
Great video! Since this is like a 'ratcheting' strap, one tip to get it closer to that is when you pass the working end through the loop, do it twice. It keeps tension while you pull on it and you don't need to pinch it to hold it in place before locking it off. And for locking it off, using a slip on that side for the first half hitch but securing that with another half or full hitch keeps tension off the locks and makes it easy to undo even under tension.
Perfect! I watched truckers use these techniques back in the fifties but never had to secure a load until the seventies and by that time I had forgotten how they did it. Very good demonstration but I'll forget how to do it unless I practice it a few times . . . after lunch, of course.😋
You are a genius. I will use it to connect and create tension between the two vertical lateral poles of a firewood rack. Muchas gracias. Thank you very much. Your kids and wife are very lucky.
Thanks for watching and writing. You have an Awesome Dad!! So many people didn't get that kind of experience growing up. Bravo to your father for teaching and you for learning! Best, DFJ
Joel Jacq, Thanks for watching and commenting. This is one of the biggest reasons we operate in the RU-vid world..so we can meet cool people like you and make a difference. Keep watching and commenting and teaching your children things they need to know. God bless. Best, DFJ
2:50 My dad, nicknamed Spiderman for tying down loads with trucker's knots, taught me to always push the tail through the loop after completing the hitch. He snugs down the loop, but not tight, to keep the tail in place. This is just a bit of added security to prevent the hitch from being undone inadvertently. Great video showing a tried and true technique. I still use straps to tie down my ATV, but I've used these knots & techniques more times than I can count.
Thank you for this! I'm moving by U-Haul and didn't want to spend money on ratchet straps I'll only use once. This shows me I can really just use rope that's significantly cheaper.
My dad showed me that years ago, Army is were he learned how to. So the other day I needed to tie down 18 foot boards on my truck . Dam did I remember the knot ? No~ Then I saw this post and true is how did youtube know I needed to learn it all over again.. like they can read my mind ~~ Thx Jay ( so a sting goes in a bar, sits and the bartender says we don't server string, so string goes outside ties himself in a knot and fray's the end, goes back inside sits and the tenders ask, aren't you the sting that was just in here, Nope I'm a frayed not...
This is exactly what I was looking for to make tight lines for the boat frame winter tarp. 5 years ago I had enough of shrink wrap so bought a 20 x 40 tarp, designed a PVC frame but still needed some method of securing the frame. Perfectly explained and easy to follow along. Thanks
Nice job. I like to use a marlin spike hitch to form my loop. This is easy to remove when finished. Also when running the end through the loop and cranking it down, if you run the working end through the loop twice instead of once (with the second pass on the bottom of the first pass through) then the knot will not come loose until you release it. When you crank the load tight it just stays.
This is how I do it. I'll put a marlin hitch on the load side and another marlin hitch on the tag end and you run your tag end through the load loop, then the tag loop, then back through the load loop. It creates that bite that you're talking about but it's also a small mechanical advantage improvement because it functions like a block and tackle. It's actually called a versa-tackle. It holds tighter than a regular trucker's hitch because you can pull it tighter and it doesn't loosen at all when you tie it off, because it self locks. You lose a lot to strand friction so it's not a smooth block and tackle, but it's certainly better than the standard truckers hitch, or this weird twisty loop that this guy is showing.
Hi Farmer Jay, as an arborist I tend to use the truckres hitch for similar applications (simple mechanical advantage system, tightening something to somthing, etc.) My chalange is that I only have long ropes (40-60m or longer) so I have to use slings + carabiners on the working end of the rope to avoid feeding the whole lenght through. Cheers, m.
You know if you are securing a tall load u can actually put 2-3truckers hitches in the same rope giving you even more of a mechanical advantage and also use up more of your rope 😉
As a teen I worked on the ranger crew at a boy scout camp. The ranger always said that you should NEVER cut a rope unless it was an emergency and unavailable. Rope is still superior to webbing in most situations.
Basically correct but what you refer to are lines cut to specific lengths. A general purpose line is normally 50ft. A lowering line is 100ft and a lifeline of material for the purposes of rescue is also generally 100ft. This is not a rule but just an example of lines in the UK Fire Service. A 'line' is cut from a 720ft rope for specific purposes and you should always know the length hence it should NEVER be cut.
Another great video with very useful information. It was your "Best Way to Store an Extension Cord" video which earned my subscription. I have shared that information with many people.
Glad it was helpful! We've appreciated you becoming one of our viewer family members. We appreciate you taking the time ongoing to have conversations with us and others the visit the channel. Best, DFJ
Thank so much for the tips Farmer Jay. I had a good chuckle when you said the phrase “Don’t do it”. There were times when I’ve fastened things down the wrong way and hearing something like that would have stopped me in my tracks. Anyhow thanks for the video and have a great day. :-) -Karen
Oh no! You're not allowed to contact Dirt Farmer Jay. He is already the "Pun King" around here. With two of you, oh my! All kidding aside, best to you Cousin Jack and thanks for watching and commenting. Dirt Farmer Maggie.
Especially if you slip the last part "going back into the hole". Most practical knots can be slipped at the last part to be untied with ease after use.
Been using that second half tie with that easy to loosen loop for years. Its such a nice and easy knot. That other one with the twisted loop is new to me. Thats is super handy!
An alpine hitch leaves the main line strong and you can pass the slack end through the loop TWICE. Keeping the second pass through under the first. Then when you pull to draw tight it will stay without even tieing it at the end. The half hitch at the end would be just for added security.
Thanks for your excellent comments. The great thing about this medium is that people can connect with not just us but all kinds of people in different professions and walks of life. Keep watching and commenting my friend. Best, DFJ
First knot is just two half hitches and should be used with a round turn, the best knot you can use in this situation in the bowline, then the truckers hitch you can do a couple of ways but the traditional way is to bring the working end back to the secure point and fix it off there. I’ve seen some using clove hitch’s which will come loose with movement or a rolling hitch at the start but as I’ve said…use the bowline and then finish off with a round turn and two half hitches and you won’t go wrong! I would never secure anything with the slip knot you use at the start….
Just depends on the application. For ridgelines, the traditional way is a waste of time. As far as knots for anchor points go, a water bowline would be more secure and just as easy to untie than a regular bowline. For finishing off, a round turn & two half hitches works well. Can also do a backhand hitch
In stowing the rope, I find a slightly different method. I take the 2 ends side by side and proceed to fold the rope in half over and over. I do this until down to about 12"-24" in length. ( It will need to vary based on the rope diameter and length ) Now tie the folded rope in a half hitch knot, for me, keeps it neat and ready to go. If for some reason you end up a little too short or long, attempting to keep your bundled rope compact, instead of starting out with rope in half, divide 1st fold into thirds, and then resume folding in half.
I learned a version of that knot over 50 years ago from an old time trucker. However; after the 3x twist do 2-3 half hitches (works like increased pulley force) then bring your loose end around the attachment point and back through your last half hitch. An extreme amount of holding force.👍 I just found you on RU-vid and you’re great. Have you always been a farmer?
Thanks for the tips! We're glad to have you be a part of our viewer family. We have always lived a more rural lifestyle and have been taught a "hands-on" approach to living and taking care of things. Thanks!
If you make a byte or loop twist it once lay it back on the line in the direction you want to tighten then pull a loop through the line (marlin spike hitch) you can use that as a attachment point also if you run the end through twice instead of once it’s self locking when you tighten it. Been using this set up for years tarp camping.
@@DirtFarmerJay thank you for the reply through a video together for you as some things are easier to show then tell. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wc5IR72HRP8.html
For years I've been using the gyprock carriers truckies knot. I like this one as an alternative because I can use it on 3 mm cord easier just because it's more simple! Thank you and cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work
Dragan, thanks so much for watching, commenting and subscribing. Australia, love that country. I went there for work about 20 years ago and met some of the best people in the world. Bet you are one of them!! Cheers! DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay thanks man! I try to be a good person especially someone who needs assistance. I hate injustice, bullying etc. Hope you have a great day! You lifted my mood massively! 🙂👍👍👍❤
Great video and very much appreciated. It should be noted that FMCSA regulations strictly prohibit the use of rope or any type of elastic cord for load securement on any Commercial Vehicle. Here in Maine that includes many pickup trucks and other types of vehicles that use a Commercial plate. Proper tie-down straps with a legible Working Load Limit must be used when transporting a load of ANY type on a public road.
Eric B - Thanks for the info! This is a great insight, I'll add this to the video's description. We really like this medium because we get great insights like this from our viewers. Thanks for watching and then taking time to write. Best Regards, DFJ
About the first knot, even with a loop, if you pull really hard on the rope, it tightens so much that you can't untie it even by pulling on the loose end of the loop. The best knot for that in my opinion is the clove hitch with a stop knot on the loose end. You can pull a truck on that knot and still untie it without tools.
Clove hitch for the win. It's a go to staple of mine, for sure. Along with the bowline knot. Also able to take substantial load yet very easy to untie.
Thanks, Daniel. I wasn't, and that's a regret of mine. I suspect you'd certainly learn these types of things in the Service. Thanks for watching and taking time to write! Best, DFJ
Most ropes, when you buy them, come with instructions on a variety of knots. The biggest drawback to rope, is the load rating. Most smaller ropes are under fifty pounds.
In the beginning it looks like you tied a "cow hitch" where you altered the direction of the second half-hitch. You did it correct on the second go-around as you want to keep the same direction thereby ending up with a "clove hitch" or in this case, a slipped clove hitch! Great video nonetheless!!
Mr. Jay! This was awesome. Super informative and exactly what I was looking for! Saved me a lot of time trying to figure out a knot that wouldn’t work as well! Thank you!
Interesting, entertaining, and, apparently, highly intuitive. I've been doing that (those) for years. It's good to know there is some actual science to it. I learned early on not to tie a knot such as to put a strain on it if I expected to untie later.
Thank you for another practical, very well presented tutorial. A while back, I saw the benefits of using the Farmer’s Loop to tie down a load. Because of its 90 degree configuration on all sides, there apparently was a reduced risk of capsizing. Would be interested which knot/loop you think is more stress-worthy.
Ireland! A place that is on the top of my bucket list to visit. Since I'm turning 65 next month, guess I'd better start concentrating on that LIST!! Thanks for watching and commenting. Best to you, DFJ
Thank you Jay. Your method is simple and practical. Can you show us how to tide a big moving box ? People usually wraps the rope in two directions. I want to know how to do the tides and knots tightly.
Called a 'lorryman's hitch' and a 'yachtman' purchase' it isn't actually a knot in The Manuals of Firemanship but many of us taught it to their crews in place of a block and tackle. You can use multiples of it in one line. We used it for improvised equipment zip lines.
One of the many advantages of this medium is that we get to be in contact with great people like you that can enlighten us and the rest of our readers about your areas of expertise. Thanks for sharing, Steven Booth. Best, DFJ
The way i typically tie things down with rope is with a single slip at one end, and a normal truckers hitch or a come along knot in the middle to tighten and secure, it all comes out with a single pull, nothing more, and i can get a 3/8 rope to hold a refrigerator to the side of a box truck on a bumpy freeway and not move an inch, then get to destination, 1 pull and it's out
i think a better way to do it is use the slip spar hitch. then on your tightening end use the truckers hitch because it keeps tension for you and is simple to do
