Awesome info as always! The explanation of your use of that flow tester at the end was particularly helpful to me (just picked up the same one and I hadn’t gotten around to googling the unit conversion). I get so much value out of the little details like that from your videos.
I usually like sticking with an 8 cup on stainless most of the time. The color is great on the 10 plus cups but I like to save my gas when I can. I kinda hate running full post flow when I tack up stuff too. You can also use copper to create gas traps for your weld joints, good for absorbing heat too.
Thanks You clarified and simplified a really confusing matter to beginners like me. Oh well, no I need to know what to do with my newly bought dc tig welder that I specifically for welding aluminium 😂 Sometime you learn the hard way. 😅
looks about the same diamond coated disc for tungsten grinding that i use...only mine is mounted to the outside of the grinding wheels on a bench grinder. 100 grit works great!
Just subbed, very educational Tim, I bought a tig welder but it came with out consumables, so I have never even tig welded before and been trying to figure out what I need, what a nightmare trying to figure this stuff out, first I needed cord plugs 100 amp that's done then I needed consumables, not knowing information I tried to get a pack of 5 of each items so I got that except for the tungsten something I forgot when ordering, I got the tanks of argon but there to small for the welder and it's the biggest my local welding shop would sell me, I ended up buying the lincoln precision tig 275 k2618-1 it came with the roller stand and water cooler etc package, so all I have left is the tungsten, larger argon tanks (if I can find them) and upgrade the electric in the garage to 130 amps min. looking towards more of your neat videos.
@@GiovanniGiorgo The biggest one they would sell me otherwise I would have to just rent a larger tank for a year and I wanted to own. Now the issue is my house is only 100 amp service so I will have to upgrade to 200 amp service just to use the welder.
I have enjoyed watching your videos for the last week or so. They are very good & enlightening. I am now convinced that this is all too complicated for ordinary humans like me. You'll only have to change your name to George for my planned projects to be completed properly . I've decided you are worth every penny that I can pay you & just keep your ears up so you can hear me when I say " Hey GEORGE ! Come Here I've another project for you ! " Thats what George Foreman always says when he asks for help & I'd NEVER Argue with George Foreman or ........... George ............. or George ............... ALL His Sons are Named " George " .............
so ive read a argument that large gas coverage on AC will result in a wider arc. where theres gas, there can be arc. So if you arc longer than you should it will allow the arc to be less controlled. For this reason the argument says NOT to use gas lenses. But i think this argument may be outdated because now you can get 4,5,6 cups that neck down around a stubby gas lens when before all you could get was 8,12,14,25. with 1 yr of aluminum tig experience I mainly run #8pro stubbys but i do find that i struggle when small precision is important. Im going to drop to ally5 furick & see if it will narrow my beads. interested to see your reply.
I do 90% of tig with ck20 and standard 5 or gas lens 6 cup. Titanium #8 gas lens. People tend to use big cups for no reason at all. You dont need #20 cup to do nice welds, you just need to know how to control heat input. For that you need some theoretical knowledge and a lot of hours under mask.
I have the torch that came with my YESwelder 2050 (WP-26) that I would like to replace with a smaller one. I don’t need the on off controller as I bought a foot pedal, but I really WANT to try the much shorter gas lens.
The short gas lens will fit on a 26 and it helps a lot. I really like the CK torches. A 17 will be a bit smaller but still share consumables with the 26. A 9 is much smaller, but uses different consumables and has a lower amperage capacity.
@@TimWelds Thank you, I want to get rid of the big clumsy 26 that it came with. I had always used a water cooled 17, with a #5 cup. Years ago I was a professional welder specializing in SS, but learned on Aluminum using a oxy/ acetylene torch. I still prefer SS and aluminum to this day
Great video. What are your thoughts on clear cups? Say Furick Fupa 12 clear with gas lens, and the Furick Ally 5 clear kit that comes with a stubby non-gas lens collet body….
I also advise people to just get a CK. I’ve tested a number of Chinese versions from eBay. Some of these are no more than $10. What I found with a couple of the really cheap ones that they’re not made from copper. Some are made from copper plated brass, which is not great. But I found a couple that heated up so quickly I couldn’t understand why. When I cut them open, I found that they were copper plated-zinc! Zinc! I mean, really now. That’s just dangerous. Also, for most anything, 3/32” electrodes and 2% lanthanated. That makes it simple for those new to this. Just grind a longer point for thinner materials, and a blunter one for thicker.
I watch the f dude, I watch the p guy, i watch the j dude, i watch the k guys and many more. Thanks to all, but i got an understanding that has never sunk in before. 😊
You can use a diamond wheel to cut it, or just make a nick in it with a grinder, clamp it in a vise right at the nick, then bend with pliers NDI it will snap off. They can split when you snap them, but mine usually don’t.
I have a Premier Plasma table with a Hypertherm Powermax 45. The Hypertherm is awesome and they have great customer service; I would definitely recommend them for plasma cutters. As far as the Premier Plasma table goes, it works pretty good for the price, but I had some quality issues early on that would lead me to pick a different brand next time.
I really like your videos. I'm a master electrician and a certified firefighter. I like seeing the fire extinguishers accessible. However, I fear that as your channel continues to grow the number of people that decides to install an extinguisher on the same stud as the light switches will increase as well. That stud generally has wires running up and down it on the inside of the wall. I fear an increase of house/shop fires by your viewers following your lead on that one. Had I been able to watch your videos prior to my welding years that would have been nice. As I'm learning from you, I'm remembering the struggles. Thanks!
I keep quiet on things I have no solution to. I saw them mounted there - thought it was an interesting choice because if their was smoke -odds are the people in the room know where the light switch is and could find them easily. I also thought they could be knocked off easily because there are always hands there. However your statement implies that they should not be mounted on studs where you know electrical wires exist on. I could infer from that: 'electrical wires inside of walls can be a source of/cause of a fire' And yes, of course they can be - if installed incorrectly or damaged after installation (for example shorting out the RX wires when you missed the stud while you are hanging a fire extinguisher :-) ) Where should they be mounted to avoid this issue?
@@nhhandyman It's always best to use a voltage sensing pen from Lowe's... to find a stud that doesn't have wires running along side or through the center of them. We drill holes through the studs to run wires through that are are far enough back to avoid sheet rock screws but not far enough back to avoid longer lug bolts. Even without a voltage sensor pen, you can rest assure that those studs have voltage along side of them / or even through the center of them. I can see why the location is attractive from a response/accessibility stand point. 🙂The problem is that It's fire hazard that looks attractive.
You can hit wires no matter where you mount things, this video won’t increase the odds of anyone doing that or starting a house fire. It’s a million times more safe to mount that fire extinguisher on a stud then hanging a hundred pictures in random places on the walls all over the house.
