Hey buddy, I love your videos. I am doing a 309, UA-41/Now at a nuclear plant. The Dip keyhole method is absolutely the way to go.I think people get a little sideways and treat this like carbon, and this is a whole Nother animal. I currently have a tick finger, and it is the only way to go when free handing a root pass,Like you said when you’re almost there to make that Tie in, you have to stay comfortable, and relaxed. I haven’t seen any new videos from you in a while. I hope this finds you doing well, I’m sure the younger people that are starting off in this field greatly appreciate what you do. I think me and you were pretty close to the same age. Can you imagine if we would’ve had RU-vid when we started out in this industry. Having the visual aesthetic‘s to troubleshoot things that are going on . Take care.
I just ordered my Tig finger. I have a 6G test at the end of the month. First test I've ever taken. Thanks for all the videos. You might have just made me alot of money
As a fairly novice welder, I can say that the Tig Finger is an amazing tool. Easily the best welding tool I've ever spent money on. They really are that good!
I'm amazed at your comfort level and how you comfortably position yourself each time. I know you have been doing this forever, but that's my biggest problems, getting comfortable. I can weld great when I'm comfy, it's just getting there every time that's challenging. I have been studying you for a while now and what I'm focusing on is how you get comfortable and how your arcs look. great video as usual Jody
Great techniques n tips jo ! As a journeyman pipefitter/welder , I by far am inexperienced to many processes of welding due to the fact that I am not always welding on the job. Thus, when I come into something new , I look for those techniques from experienced guys as yourself. Keep up the great work, it's definitely helpful to us all !
Gotta say, I know many folks aren't as familiar with your videos as I am, hence your speech about selling the Tig-finger, but I am so glad I bought one! Even though I may not treat it like a ladies lace glove it is almost new looking after 4 months of using it nearly everyday. I use it for Tig as well as stick welding, and have even caught myself walking on it and just a light slap against the lip of my table it knocks the dust off and a wet rag removes the boot-prints when I do Tig something that should be clean. I stand behind your product, your techniques, and even your tone of voice, and I'm not about to apologize for my opinions. I'm waiting for my birthday to get a second one and I know how I will use it, but are there any times you need 2 that you could show us on video without feeling like the "Sham-wow" guy? Mahalo and Aloha for all the time you spend to teach and entertain us freeloaders, for even though I bought one Tig finger, you have more than "got me back" with all your tips and tricks!
I went back to school at ArcLabs for 6G GTAW and just got the tigfinger regular and XL. Love em'. I tried a couple other tricks like wrapping my stick glove around the pipe but this is more practical. The regular actually just fits two of my fingers in a way that it doesnt come loose over time. Really handy. With an added cotton finger tip cover on my middle finger I get all the dexterity and comfort I need to weld pipe all day.
Hi! Your vids helped me pass the HL045 test in stainless. So many thanks! And for the cool part, I wasnt a pipe welder to beging with. Just tried it some times but never really worked as one. So it was cool that I passed the test!
In this he has an add about the "TIG Finger" and these things are no joke. I consider them an essentials piece of kit. You should weld comfortably for the best welds possible and these little puppies allow just that. keeps me from speeding through the end of filler rods or passes cause my hands feel like they are on fire. I LOVE THESE THINGS. (one thing about them I wish the ends would frey inside but still have one on me all the time!) another great video thanks!
Miller needs to contract you as there Factory welder at the top trade shows,, I'd go just to meet you.. You have done so much for my welding,, hats off to you!!
Love your videos mate. I can spend all night watching and learning. I have your tig fingers and they are the best thing since sliced bread. Love them keep two in my welding jacket pocket all the time.
I don't know why the 6G strikes fear in the heart, and sweats bullets, but it sure does. Especially when the job counts on it. I own plenty of tig fingers and consider them an indispensable part of the gear. When I see somebody else with one, we laugh and talk about your great videos. DON'T YOU DARE STOP, WE ARE COUNTING ON YOU!
Thanks again Jody, your website has been a GOTO resource on Every 1 of my welding projects - 1000's of $ worth of help so thanks! BTW, I bought a Tig finger and it's been invaluable on everything from tests, jobs, courses, practice, brazing, gas-cutting anything hot actually! Just about to go buy a pack of 5-10 coz I've eventually worn it out and it's covered in muck from the abuse! =)
Excellent video. I use aluminum foil to cap off the ends of the test coupon, it does not melt like duct tape. If the open root gap closes up during welding I use a cut off wheel to maintain a 3/32" gap.
after the root pass is complete is OK to remove argon and tape? and while doing root pass how much psi or pressure argon is feeding in the pipe? and stainless pipe is done the same way?
Great to watch, Thanks for the upload. in regards to the tig finger, is there anyway you can get a pocket type one? so it fits over 2-4 fingers? or are the current ones stretchable? Cheers
Yeah! I would buy a two-fingered Tig 'glove over' for $50 bucks, or maybe add a Velcro or snap type connector to them? I have an old sewing machine for leather and am tempted to try to stitch two on there, but find myself switching fingers too often to make it a permanent thing, so an attachment system would be cool! Sorry to "bump my gums" about something I'm sure you've heard more than twice!
So when cutting the tacks you can just cut the middle and just move a bit slower when welding over it and it won't affect the back of the weld? I grind off that extra bit carefully with a cutting disk after cutting the tack, a tedious process
is it OK to remove argon hose and tape when root pass is complete? and how much pressure or psi is argon feeding in the pipe? and is stainless pipe done the same way?
You could use a bullet tack, no need to purge for tacking? btw i bow to your greater knowledge, i'm just thinking, because i recently started using them, because then there's no need to grind or feather tacks out. I just use a slitting wheel to cut them off and file the tack off the outside of the pipe. I use 1/2" solid rod,cut 3/4" long, top and sides as bullets.The bottom I leave open.
Hi Mr Jody Your method welding teknik very nice idea tig finger very important. I believe you wonderful when show your video good way how you weld I would like to thank you
love the smell of melting duct tape in the weld booth. just took the UA-41 a week ago. still waiting on the results but I'm confident I passed. however I walk the cup the whole way. I do a little dip/keyhole on the root but while walking. I tend to run a 3/32 gap, knife edge with a 3/32 rod at 75amps on scratch start. than for my hot pass/fill/cap I run between 85-95 amps.
I also feel like when I keyhole dip my root comes out slightly flatter then just feeding the wire the whole time ? I’m still learning man so I’m just asking question tbh...
Have any tips on welding schedule 10 ss 308L? I'm using a 1/8 gap and 3/32 for my root which seems fine but not getting a real heavy pass like in your video, mainly flush with no suck-back. Thanks.
How do you make your weld flat on the bottom, I'm having a real problem with it hanging down, I'm welding schedule 40s stainless pipe 6g, and on the bottom it sags down and toutches the tungsten, it's driving me crazy because I matched everything you have shown in the video apart from the pipe is stainless, I've tried changing the gap, amperage, purge pressures, joint prep, filler wire, welding technique, and speed, also the penetration is very very shallow and get massive suck back on the bottom, please help
Try keeping the wire in the puddle and feeding it while weaving wider. Or hold your wire up inside the pipe a lil. Rest it on the bottom of the middle tack and feed it into the puddle.
Thanks jody,but i gotta weld up some structural 350 pfc today,all mig all v up ,want to use 4111 stick as a root for peno,v down,and then v-up with mig,although the boss disagrees,
its root was parallel porq u put the rod through the side of the bezel, tries to put inside the opening will get better ops and position 6g have to use the right hand and the left tbm up more.
good vid if u can clean the inside apply solar flux to the clean area back gas plus a little flux helps especially in field operations where your work piece is dirty
Jody do some Cuni piping! Im fighting with fitters from getting hit by NDT on pits...but they won't give out the remotes! I know you can kill the machine and finish on some copper but man i would love to see how you do it since you are a really good pipe welder.
I'm not a welder so excuses my ignorance. With the purging of the pipe with argon this is obviously for applications where very high quality and constancy is required. Can you give some examples? Natural gas? Steam in power plants? What kind of pressure and conditions are the welds these pipes expected to withstand?
It's purged because the root is stainless. Stainless will "sugar" if not purged, basically the chromium is coming out of solution and will oxidize where exposed to oxygen. Its called that because it looks like sugar on the surface, inside the pipe. The examples you listed are not as critical as you'd think a lot of natural gas piping is all 6010 downhand and a majority of welds in steam generation are 70 series until you get to superheated steam where it will be up to say 90 B3 wire or 9018 B3 stick. 90 B3 has 2.5% chromium so it will sugar if way overheated, but normally it isn't purged. Modern boilers are designed with T91/P91 also called 9 chrome steels and they must be purged to avoid root oxidation. As for pressures it depends on boiler design, older small coal or garbage burning plants can run as low as 500psi where new supercritical boilers run over 3200psi. The average plants around me produce 500MW from coal fired boilers that run at 2750psi. The lower tubes in a boiler like this have liquid water in and are approx. 2" id and .3" wall thickness or more but with wear I've seen them under an eighth inch wall before they fail, which is usually quite catastrophic if a large area is wore. Purging is normally used for sanitary piping in the food or medical industry where the roots must be clean and smooth.
any tips for a 2in shc 80 stainless steel iv be tryn on the surface clean at 80amps and the bead gets grey after putn on a 2in bead from 3 to 12 oclock hope to see a stainless pipe root and all please
I'm assuming you're talking about welding after root? You're probably getting the material too hot or inadequate shielding if its turning grey. If you want the piece to stay shiny you can probably only weld an inch at a time and let it cool that you can touch it. For the heat it may sound contradictive but turn it up. 80 is enough for a root because you're basically just melting wire, but for the hot pass, especially on heavier material, you will need more amps. Having too low amps will take too long to form a puddle which is just dumping excess heat into the part. Turn it up so you can form a puddle almost instantly and move. Don't worry what he is welding at every welder will run different. We usually have Miller XMTs at work and I would weld somewhere around 110-120 for a hot pass on heavier tubes if I could change my machine between root and hotpass, and that's on scratch start, liftarc maybe around 140. I also freehand everything which would probably let me move a little faster than someone walking the cup. If its shielding try a gas lens to cover a wider area and allow it to cool while shielding gas is present. Welding stainless boiler tubes I'm usually not that worried about a perfectly shiny weld, they're stainless for strength at high temps not for corrosion resistance but if a weld is really grey or ugly I'll hit it with a stainless wire brush to get all the oxides off, let it cool almost completely and run over really fast with no wire and they shine right up.
sir plz give me some help. how to weld 10.5mm diameter Stainless Steel tube weld with purging by TIG welding method.plz sir make at least one video. it is really needed for me and my frnds.
greeting from serbia, following your work for a long time and i like it, i wonder how i coud buy tig finger?i looked everywhere, but it just is not in our stores.
thanks justin i kind figured that i switched to number 12 gas lens and turned up the amps things are lookn beautyful was too sure bout root just thought around there thanks
Dave Osland TRUE! I don't have my notes in front of me ... but it has more to do with how AWS or ASME classifies the filler - there is a lot more to is than this ... I will be away from my work station for a couple of weeks, but when I get back I will try to hit you with a more complete answer.
The tig finger is one genius invention. Just as important to me as a gas lens. Can't tig weld without either. Who ever thought of that tig finger saved lots of skin 😉
Merci j'ai vraiment à pris et compris dans cette vidéo vous montrez que tout part d'abord d'une bonne préparation et technique que vous avez utilisé je vais l'essayer demain merci
ở bên các bạn thiết bị và dụng cụ tốt nên tỷ lệ tạo nên một mối hàn hoàn hảo là rất cao , nhưng tôi tự hào một điều rằng tay nghề thợ hàn của VIỆT NAM chúng tôi không thua kém gì các bạn cảm ơn vì clip của các bạn đã giúp tôi hiểu hơn về chuyên nghành hàn. tôi là một thợ hàn!
I am David Kudoro, please I really love what you are doing right now, I am a Tig welder and i love welding but I am not too perfect on it but i love it because out of all the welding I have been doing Tig welding I the easiest and sweetie
Welding I there are some fantastic almlahadat 1. A Proton CAP must be 2.5/2 welding Proton wrong so there are the permeability and thereby repair incomplete permeability
Thank you for this video but it seems to me for as wide as your going on your root and the speed you'd think you'd get some suck back on that. I've always been taught not to go any wider than your root opening and don't waste any time doing it. Here you're going wide and weaving the heck out of it. I'm confused...
