put a 1+ second dwell at bottom of cycle to allow chips to evacuate. you can actually calculate how long it takes the chip to come up and out based on drill twist rate and RPM. otherwise chip binds during retract which creates drag force higher than tensile strength of small through-coolant drill bit which has a tiny amount of cross sectional area.
in my experience carbide drills in general don't like like to be spotted and don't like to be pecked. This is because carbide drills (at least the 140 degree ones) are self centering and when you peck the drill tends to chatter on the way back in causing the drill to wear and potentially drilling oversize. If you have to spot the hole you want the spot to be the same angle as the drill.
Hello John, so beautiful to see all the emotions, hard work, trial and error that goes in to developing such a beautiful knife, step by step you really see the heart and soul going in to making something that has been in your head literally for years now, so cool!!
I know you don’t want to do the slotting with the larger slitting saw but your argument about the orientation of the knife being down and wasting material and needing to do a second op is nonsense. You have a 5 axis machine it would be machined in the exact same orientation as you are for the high feed
Really glad to see you bring back knifemaking Tuesdays. This was always one of my favorite things to see pop up on RU-vid. Great lessons from your shared experience. Welcome back John!
About fuggin time John.... missed this. This is what made you great. I understand running a business is no easy task. You've been distracted. But this is the good stuff here.
I love knifemaking tuesdays. So great to see an indepth episode where you show us all your troubles and thoughtprocesses to find solutions. I was so happy to see this episode and looking forward to the next ones to come. Greetings from Estonia.
I think I speak for a ll Grimsmo fans, we are beyond excited for the finished product! Personally really stoked to see you walk us through the process! Idk many others doing that! Thanks John!
Thanks so much for sharing the process broken tools and all. I had a rough day breaking tools on my Hurco I picked up when I visited your old shop in 2019! Great to see you back to long form youtube videos!
Use a paint pen to mark on the vise nut which correlates with which torque wrench to use. Color coding is easier to quick reference than letters and numbers. I do the same with Allen head screws and the Allen wrenches to take the guessing out. Just my 2 cents.
We know you'll end up making a fixture to hold the handle upside down after the first upside op to finish the bottom. That'd be a good time to add some lightening holes/features.
This is my first time seeing one of these videos I can't believe all the work that goes into this That definitely justifies the price looking forward to more videos
Seems kind of silly if you have the slitting saw, use it in the 5 axis at a90 and Interpolate between the cxy axis to make your profile. Z would be used to center it in the frame. If you set your g54 to the center of the blank, you could use the slitting saw with c at 90/-90 x at 0, z set to 0 minus half the cutter thickness, and just use y and c to trace out the profile. High feed mill would achieve the same end really, you would just be using interpolating between z and x to profile and set depth.
Just watched the whole video in the UK and I hear the tension in your voice and see the relief in your expression? Don’t know why you put yourself through it but it’s a riveting watch thanks👍
The squashed chips are a signal of excessive feed usually, that might be a problem, i also work with osg drills on a regular basis, osg has very good guides on drilling practices, ask your tool rep for them, they have been life changing for me.
Awesome to see the new build John. The journey has been amazing and I'm glad I've been able to see glimpse of it in person for almost the past 10 years!
Wow that intro music took me back lol. I gotta say you where a big inspiration for me to get into the manufacturing industry. Started watching back in high school and now im over in Europe checking out a new cheto gundrill we are purchasing for our shop.
Thank you for making this video! I watched the whole thing and I thought it was too short, ha. I could feel your satisfaction when you finished it, can't wait for what is next! It's going to be an awesome knife, I want one.
Quick tip on how to center the piece faster with digital callipers: - zero on one side - measure the other - move either side to half the second measurement
My preference is to have one side as a constant. Then if I'm worried about stock consistency, such as a saw cut, I'll make the tool path run long on one side. That way it doesn't take a big bite on a long one saw cut. I'll set my calipers or whatever im using to a dimension and lock them there. Then just consistently set the left or right to that. Again just a preference.
I want so much for you to spend some time thinking about the dust problem in these knives. Best knife ever, when sharpened and reassembled just so. Beautiful deployment, awesome blades. Recently I just had to switch everyone at the shop back to a Sebenza, as we are a millwork shop, and the ambient dust and sawdust inevitably clogs up the Rask by the end of the day, preventing it from opening properly. It’s now a gentleman’s carry for me, but I miss the easy action and lightness every day in shop. It’s quite inconvenient to have to take it apart twice a day to ensure that it opens and closes/locks safely.
Hey John, When you have a failed part because of one operation, why not carry on to another operation on the same scrapped part to prove out the rest of the process? Even though the part is scraped you could have still gotten a lot of data before restarting entirely. Best!
You can use a tool for a stop. If you have an extra tool open I have a 1/2 dowel in a holder and program it to a spot and pause program for me to insert the part slide it to the dowel (stop) then clamp vise. Or sometime I will use the diameter of the shank on a tool to. Hope that makes sense and helps. just me two cents
Always ground your model in fusion. I’ve made that mistake before as well. So glad these videos are back. I have been watching your old ones for the past month now.
I am making my own integral and had problems with holding the part stable. Just ordered same vice that you use from Ceratizit I hope that it works out! By the way I use slitting saw with inserts from seco for the middle cut. Leaves very good surface!
Always entertaining. I think you are confused about what the expression, "Eyeballing" actually means. You don't need calipers to "Eyeball" something... You are forever the master of attention to details.
I love seeing this process and level of detail, really interesting. I think many folks underestimate the amount of iterations, tests and minute adjustments that are needed to bring a product (of any kind) together. This is great, looking forward to seeing the final result someday!
I had a great idea the other day to do that slit on a table saw (well not with a titanium handle lol)...hear me out....build a clamping fixture out of aluminum that completely encapsulates the blade....two pieces like a clam shell that bolts together.....set your fence, run it through the table saw at the correct cut depth......now go hold it in soft jaws and clean up the inside with a ball nose....of course like you said, you have the 5 axis, and you can do it the other way....but for someone making knives in a garage or small shop, you def can skin the cat other ways
I know this forward thinking but I think a grimsmo axe for be a badass addition to the line up very Viking and very cool what you John could come up with!
So nice to see another knifemaking tuesday after so long. Back then when I did rebuild one of my first CNC mills, I saw you in the very first episode of knife making tuesday, and followed since. And decided that sometime I will also make a pocket knife with my CNC. And what a coincidence - in the last weeks I machined the very first blades for my _integral handle pocket knife_. We're one the same train - looking forward to your next episode!
So you just had to tempt me again... It looks awesome. Im glad you decided to finish your prototype. Not every knife needs a pocket clip. Honestly I'm not sure i would want a pocket clip on such a classy gentleman's knife.
I once said "Clearance is clearance" to myself having watched the spindlehousing, in full rapid speed, literally wipe away coolant that was sitting on the side of a part - without touching it. I nearly shat myself.
Give walter titex drills a thought. They are probably the best solid carbide drills on the market. We use them every day. From 2MM up to 16MM, 3xd up to 40xd.
You and Saunders made me get my VF2. Loving CNC and making my own custom products! Nice video as always! Been watching since you got the tormach delivered to your garage 😂 that was awesome. Imagine owning a Kern!
-- Mental checklist: "Di-iiid I do everything"? And I start screaming "PROBING! Probe the part!" =)) But I get that your WCS is probably somewhere on the vise
Regarding centering the part in the kern dovetail vice. Could you just make something the shape of a set square, hold it against the part and the length of the other side hits against the vice. Super easy and quick. No fuss.
So its a plung style button lock. Wish you would have gone to a compression lock style button lock like the Brown Lock or the Spyderco smock. They seem to have a much better detent than the plunger style button lock.
I use full carbide slitting saws a lot and I absolutely love them. Low cutting power 6 flutes 1,5 mm flute length. I rip them through 316 stainless for cutting of parts. Break the parts loose, lower the z offset and next one get's done. I would use a slitting saw to remove the bulk of the core and then do a finish path for the inner walls with an endmill. Best of both worlds? Thank you John! Best, Job
Chips arent ejecting. High pressure might be compacting the chips, as opposed to letting the flute geometry to eject them naturally. I'd peck drill. Also could peck drill undersize, then ream, or do secondary drill operation with correct suze to open up to desired finished diameter.
You could use any size slitting saw you want, the cut depth is only restricted by the radius of your arbor. You have some high end lathes that you could easily make a well balanced arbor, of your own choice of size. If your slitting saw tool holder is spinning in your spindle, the chances are your arbor shank is already spinning in your collet. If you get to that point, you’re pushing the blade too hard. Every machinist has blown up at least one slitting saw, get it over with so you know where the limit is, then work back from that.