One of the best and most informative weathering videos I've seen. Going to follow it step by step as I do my ST BNSF locos. Are you doing a second video of the burn mark on the long hood. I have several prototype photos of these burns and yours looks just right.
Hi Josh. I lived in Las Vegas which is right in the UP’s LA to Salt Lake City mainline. Those UP locomotives get nasty dirty and dusty running across the Mojave Desert. Great video!!
Thank you Josh, you made a very well tutorial, I am from Mexico, I think you speak very well, dynamic, clear and with good knowledge and experience of doing this techniques.
Great video. You mentioned at the beginning of the video that you had changed the engine number on the body of the engine and on the number boards. How about doing a video on that. Some people might find this basic, but it would be good to know the best way to remove the factory painted numbers from the body without wrecking the paint or the plastic, how to put on new number decals so that they are lined up properly, the best way to remove factory applied numbers from the number boards, and the best way to apply new numbers to the numberboards. Thanks.
Scalestrains you make the best dash 9’s every these locos are outstanding you got me to buy this model. That you for sharing. This will make my little train set be more realistic with these running around. And I can double head with your et44c4 to! More to the fleet! I would love to weather one of these locos when I get one but I don’t think I can if I mess up thats a dash 9 down the drain..
Nicely done and explained, Josh. It appears you removed the handrails before you performed your procedures. Did you weather them separately, and if so, how? Also, when you remove the masking tape doesn't that leave "bright spots" on the narrow framing members between/around the window panes? How do you handle that? Lastly, these procedures will leave masked shadows on the wheel faces. Did you go back afterwards and color the wheel faces uniformly? Your finished model looks super. Thank you.
Here's my question, are the wheels masked? I am thinking that if everything is weathered together, would there be a outline of the trucks on the wheels?
Hi Josh, great job. Which tip do you use on your Paasche H, #1, #3, or #5? Also, I don't think you mentioned your preferred air pressure. Recommendations on air pressure seem to vary considerably. Thanks!
@nsmodler24 That's an awesome job you've done there Josh. I'm sure this may seem like an obvious question, but has weathering the trucks too heavily ever caused damage to any of the electronics or any kind of operational issues?
Just clean the wheels. Other than that there should be no problems. A little Goo gone on a rag (old t-shirt) and run the wheels over it on the front truck and then the back truck while it is on powered rails and your good to go.
Do they also make dullcoat for applying from the airbrush? Rattle-cans usually have huge droplets that I think are not the best for fine details like we have in these models. Also, going back over 30-years now, I shot Testors rattle-can dullcoat on a caboose that I had and it seemed to leave a hazy glaze on the model that I think actually ruined the finish. There was no other weathering done, I just wanted to knock down the glossiness of the caboose. In fairness and disclosure, I was just a young unexperienced teen and may have applied too much, but I'm still hesitant to shoot coat after coat after coat as you've done here, even though I know you're letting it dry in between coats.
Don't use Dullcote from a rattle can. You found out first hand what happens. Tamiya TS80 Clear Flat in a rattle can is the best. I use it on prize models. It i expensive though. Krylon or Rustoleam make clear flat that is very inexpensive. I use it on cars.
Try several very light coats (Dullcote rattle can) from a good distance away. Be patient, and keep your spray pattern moving. I understand your problem - been there. Just go easy with it. You'll get good at it.
We made it ourselves to fit under/into our layout. Mostly 2x4 and plywood construction, a fan from Grainger, applied a metal surface to paint on (it stays smoother, doesn't get paint build up like wood does, and you can clean it with paint thinner) and then the hood was made out of a large plastic storage bin. We put it on wheels so we could move it around. We have a flexible vent tube that can be hooked up to the back of it and it runs to a vent that goes outside. We filter the air going out side with 1" airvent material. It is a pretty easy day job to build it. All said it was probably less than $200. Tom (Josh's Dad)
Pretty sure ESU project S0772 is just a rip from the scaletrains version. V1-R1 even had the description "SXT Dash 9" before they fixed it lol. Although I download S0540 (previously on the website as S0640) into my Dash 9s since I like it better.
I am curious when this company will stop the love affair with this young man. The layout is his fathers and it is easy to be a rich kid who sits in his fathers layout room and adds detail here or there. Now this brat has grown up and the wealth privilege continues.
Jealously will get "YOU" nowhere. I bet you have alot of nice things that other less fortunate people would love to have.Cheer up ,enjoy life,it goes by quicker than you think.!!
What is wrong with you. They have worked together this whole time, and that is so untrue. I have met Josh and he does so much. I’m curious when you will get a brain.
