For all interested. I used "OSMO UV- protection- oil 420 clear satin matt" on my cedar to protect it from the weather and greying. It darkens the wood but brings out the lovely grain and improved the look imo. Looks lovely. 60 quid for 2.5l.
Awesome job!! That shed looks more substantial and higher quality than my house! ;) I love the attention to detail and how you explained the use and purpose of the various different layers. Makes a lot of sense. Thank you for sharing that! :)
Liked watching you do the slab pour yourself, reminded me that it is actually possible... Great choice of materials, almost seems like you wanted it to last. Now if only I had the money to choice materials myself. And I swear I always have trouble figuring out the centers and spacing on everything. Currently hung up on my own design with the rafter spacing for a metal roof.
Hi Charles I've added the size and cost details to the description. Dan Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I'll do an internals tour once the inside is fully complete. It is still part wood store for a stack of beech at the moment.
Can I just check what you done with the EPDM roof. You covered the whole roof with PVA minus the sides which you covered with contact adhesive? Why not all PVA or all contact adhesive? Great job by the way.
That was what the instructions said. Guess the more awkward to use, more expensive, stronger contact adhesive is only needed at the edges maybe as additional protection against the wind getting under the sheet.
One tip I would suggest if you do go down the EPDM route is to lay out the sheet for a while until the creases have disappeared. I didnt have time to do this because of a race against coming rain and the creases proved difficult to glue down well.
Красивый сарай, под такой музон в конце они должны были в нем ядерную зиму пережить, типа смотрят в окно зи нутри сарая, а в очках ядерный гриб отражением.
you all ways get Americans saying your doing it wrong i think the guy know what he is doing he has all the kit a good joiner would have the UK and the US are different in the way things are done and weather you did a good job mate
The UK is wet wet wet most of the year round. The slab is mainly to deny space to water that would otherwise collect under the shed. I wanted to have under shed ventilation rather than a solid slab under the floor to eliminate any possibility of issues with a dodgy damp proof membrane in the slab.
Should use pressure treated timber, with DPC membrane against the slab, didn't compact the earth before laying the slab either, no insulation in the floor cavity or roof. No floor vents or roof guttering, will lead to premature rotting.
Vax Buster The softwood framing is pressure treated. There was no point putting a damp proof membrane under the first layer of wood because flooding occasionally overruns the slab and if you read some of the earlier comments you would have learned that there was no desire to lay a higher slab. That is why oak was used at the first level and there is a dpc between the oak and the pressure treated joists. The soil was tamped and so was a layer of hardcore under the concrete. The under joist area is fully ventilated, there is an air channel around the black perspex. If you examine the thumbnail of the video you will see that the completed shed has guttering. There is 90 and 100mm celotex insulation in the walls and above the ceiling with a 50mm ventilation channel under the roof deck leading out to the soffit grills.
Hi, looks great and very inspiring for my upcoming garden build. I have a question about the cladding - is it straight edges butted together or is it tongue and groove or similar? I ask because I am thinking about using recycled materials where possible and I wondered if the cladding in this is intended to be waterproof or a cover for a waterproof membrane,
Hi Andrew, the cladding is the primary rain shield and is intended to keep the majority of the weather out. Ideally it is a durable wood ie not prone to fungal rot. This shed used western red cedar, which is a softwood with very good anti-fungal properties. The boards are tongued and grooved, and so are the corner pieces. I also used silicon mastic where the inner panels butt into the outside pieces. The cladding doesn't have to be coated if it is durable, but a coating will improve its durability and slow down UV damage. Providing a drain path and ventilation behind the cladding, and not allowing the end of vertical panels to sit on horizontal boards will allow the rain shield to dry out after rain. The waterproof membrane is the backup defence to stuff getting through the cladding during heavy weather, but it is vulnerable to UV damage so needs to hidden from the sun. Main design principles for rain protection: overlap from bottom to top like roof tiles, try to keep most things vertical, provide drain paths and ventilation and try to avoid or put a shedding slope on top surface of horizontal elements.
Hi Neil, thank you for making video how it is done. I want to built small house, just almost like a shed. I kinda go how to built a frames, but my question is when you finish building the frames and you put them up, do you use NAIL to NAIL the frames and the floor base together. What do you use?. Thank you.
Hi. The pros use nail guns. I used both screws(using an impact driver) and nails. If I was doing it again I'd use just nails. They're faster,cheaper,make smaller holes and probably stronger than screws.when joining with nails try and angle the nails in different directions a little to resist pullout.use annular ring nails where the wood might be subject to a lot of movement eg floor and roof.
I really don't understand why you didn't just have a concrete floor ? Why timber dressing on it ? With concrete you can Dyna bolt down your lathes, mill, whatever for stability and safety. Weird. Rob
Hi Neil, shame about some of the negative comments, you did a great and thorough job. I've tyvek-ed mine and cut out the windows, folding the tycvek back and stapling. Could you tell me a bit more about how you flashed the windows? Could I just use flex wrap to cover the cill and then just rely on the tyke to keep it out of the rest. Perhaps some small strips at the top 2 corners to where the wood is exposed? Thanks. Also, has your cedar silvered at all or is it still that nice red hue?
Hi Ali, thanks for the comments. So the windows were done as follows: slope the sill downwards to the outside (plane a bevel on it) and fix a 5mm or so strip of wood on the sill aligned with the back edge of where the window would go as a back dam. Then the side and bottom Tyvek was stapled into the frame. Next flexwrap went at the bottom of the frame and about 6 inch up the sides, placed across the inside of the frame and the outside surface. Staple the flexwrap at the ends away from corners and around the outside perimeter of the curve on the front of shed. Next place straight flashing on the sides of the window and the front surface so that it over overlaps the Flexwrap at the bottom of the frame. Then flash the top edge of the frame (this area is not very critical) with either flexwrap(maybe overkill) or straight flashing. And finally bring the top Tyvek strip down and fix it internally and tape up the seams. Place the window on some thin, hard plastic blocks so that water can drain off the bottom of the sill. Flashing principle was higher flashing should overlap and shed onto lower flashing. Hope this has helped a little.
hey Neil Great job! Where did you purchase the cedar, do you happen to know the manufacturer, and is there any type of sealer on them ? The reason I ask is because i just purchased some this year and they are a lot more later color and more of a faded look to them
Jason corr Hi Jason, They were sold by Vincent Timber in the midlands. Sorry I dont know the original manufacturer. They came untreated and were coated all six faces with one coat of Sikkens light oak Cetol and one coat of Sikkens light oak Filter 7. The Sikkens seems to have performed well so far (shed was built in 2013) as the cedar hasnt shown any sign of greying yet.
Hi David, there is a slope albeit a small one. The 6" rafters were profiled down to 4" at one end, which seems to be OK in practice. The 2.5M height restriction here doesn't allow for many options for the roof.
I didn't see any damp-proof course under the concrete? And none under the beams bolted to the concrete? What is going to stop the rot? Better would be to make a perimeter foundation at least 300 mm (12 ") square cross-section, reinforced with at least 2 of 10 mm rebar, to about 100 mm (4 ") below the floor level, then fill inside with ballast, tamped, then 50 mm (2 ") sand all compacted, then a layer of heavy plastic DPC. Pour a 100 mm (4 ") concrete floor reinforced by 150 mm (6 ") square mesh of 6 mm (1/4 "); carefully screeded and painted with a self-levelling floor paint. The timber frames can be put down directly on that, and the cedar siding run slightly below and outside the floor slab, so any rain is shed below the floorline. A good trick is to have rebar starters from the perimeter coming up through the DPC and floor, through the bottom plates, then bend them over the top of the plate, stapled, to hold the walls down. "U" straps at each stud, going under the floor plate makes it pretty resistant to storm or earthquake as well.
Hi Paul, our garden floods regularly in winter above the height of the concrete pad, so a damp proof membrane would be pointless. A raised pad wasn't considered because there is a 2.5m (8 foot) height limit on these kind of sheds (within 2m of external boundary) in the UK and also we were self mixing the concrete, plus I trusted more a ventilated space to a solid block of concrete with a membrane in it. So we went for oak sleepers secured by stainless bolts, under floor ventilation, and a dpc between the oak sleepers and and the softwood joists. Seems to be doing OK 5 years on. The concrete pad was essentially just to stop water pooling under the shed and to stop stuff growing there. From what I have read cedar siding will last longer if the ends are kept at least 10mm away from the next surface, so that they dry out better after being wet and keep water away from that wicking end grain.
That looks unbelievable... Fantastic job my friend. I noticed you had a slab that you poured. Any reason you didn't just build the walls on top of a sill from there?
Michael Sanchez Hi. The rafters are tapered to provide a 50mm fall. An A frame roof wasn’t an option because of the UK building regs height limit of 2.5m on outbuildings within 2m of a boundary.
We used a programable timer on a still camera and then stitched the photos together at the end. Took a photo every 5 mins. Only problem was the camera would only take 99 photos in a session and some days we worked a lot longer than 8 hours and forgot to reprime the timer.
Hi can you list how much wood u used and what attach beam is it don't know what it's called but the metal thing to nail it when u were doing roof and how much was it total thank you
Great build. I am intrigued by this epdm stuff, but I think my biggest concern is a vent. Vent's seem to be standard on houses, but not always on a smaller sheds. Is there a general rule at what size ridge vents should be utilized?
Hi Michael, sorry I'm not knowledgable enough to provide advice on the vents. My shed uses vents in the soffits to ventilate a 2" air gap between the pir insulation sitting on the ceiling and the roof decking. There is no ventilation inside the shed. A low power dehumidifier is used to remove excess humidity in winter.
Danny Mistry cheers Danny, I put a dpc between the softwood joists and the oak sleepers. There was no point putting anything under the oak as it was too low and likely to be regularly overrun.
The standard technique is to nail a firring(tapered piece of wood) strip onto the top of the rafters. I didnt have enough height budget to this because of the UK height limits, so I tapered the 6" rafters down to 4" at one end. The rafters are about 10' long.
+michaelumeyer Thanks Michael. The Western Red Cedar panels had a first coat of Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus and a second coat of Sikkens Filter 7, both in colour 'Light Oak'. The filter 7 coat is anti-UV, which hopefully will delay the inevitable greying of the Cedar. All six sides of the panels were treated each coat.
Great build and inspiration for my workshop build. Can I ask where you got the 3mm EPDM from ? I can only find 1.5mm. In fact some sources for other key materials would be useful - I'm tempted to follow your cedar route but finding it very expensive to source :o
+Andrew Porter Apologies for the delay in getting back to you, your comment was hidden in the review before release pile. And apologies again, I checked the EPDM I used and it is just 1.5mm from Rubber4Roofs. I'd remembered it was an upgrade from the standard 1.2mm grade and had guessed at 3mm rather than checking properly when I ws writing up this page. Sorry.
