This is EXACTLY where I am at today!!!! New distributor, carb countless hours trying plug intake gaskets were leaking nothing really fixed it. Replacing my chain this weekend. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
The best way to install the time set is to have top dead center on the compression stroke for number 6. That way you get dot to dot and less chance to misalign them.
You are correct. That would make it so much easier. I have always used compression stroke on #1. I use a straight edge when aligning the timing dots to prevent a mis-alignment. I have never had an issue with mis-alignment. I guess it's whatever way you are used to using.
When the dots align center to center it's easier to see they align !!! Some people get the crank dot at the top and the Cam dot at the top,,, but that's harder to tell the alignment. When you turn the crank one turn the dot will still be at the top but the Cam dot will be at the bottom 2 to 1 ratio of the timing gear's, Good old school mechanics are hard to find these days !!! Most New mechanics are Lost without there computer. Nice Vet !!! All the best to you and yours Sir.
That’s exactly right put the dot to dot on LS and SBC. Don’t worry about number one cylinder firing. Actually, number one is at TDC but on exhaust stroke. Forget the noise j just put dots together.
There were some timing sets that if you lined up the dots, you were 180 degrees off during start up. Not all the time, but it happens. Manufacturing I guess.
You are supposed to align the dots with the cam gear dot on the bottom closest to the crankshaft. But I think you still prove your point even though its on the top. One way you can confirm if an engine has jumped time from being worn out or in your case probably assembled wrong. Do a compression test I repeat do a compression test. I had a 305 that would barely start and run it acted like it had vacuum leaks it ran like complete garbage, it was the longest most problematic engine I have ever tried to get running. and then my dad said do a compression test on it. The engine was doing about 70 psi on each cylinder and then we figured out it had jumped time, it was off by one notch. It was not a double roller so the teeth are bigger and one notch would make a bigger difference than on your engine that has a double roller. Either way do a compression test they are so underrated, lol. Its good that you got it worked out on the end of the video. I just wanted to add my 2 cents on this subject.
I always set my cam timing with a degree wheel. It's the best way to get not only your cam set to the cam manufacturers specifications but you can also verify the timing mark on the balancer. Valve lash is also very important and will directly effect your vacuum signal. I always go to zero then an 8th to a quarter turn for the preload.
On a 350 its just a damper. On a 400 or 454, they're externally balanced. But yes your timing marks won't align if it moves. Whenever I use a second hand damper, I get the corresponding cover that came with it. Over the years the timing mark position moved, and there were differences in diameter as well.
When setting the preload, adjust the plunger to the bottom and back it off 1/4 turn. That way the lifter doesn't have to pump up after sitting and bleeding down and you get instant valve action. I always use solids with poly locks, they hold the lash for a long time and the engine is more responsive.
Cam and Crank dots should line up. Pull out distributor take bolts out of your camshaft. Line the dots up make sure your crank is straight up and down TBC.
Chevy’s when the timing marks are together Crank Top/Cam Bottom you are at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #6. That is the way I time it during Assy then I rotate the crank 1 revolution then you are TDC Compression Stroke Cylinder #1. Then you can finish Assy and drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 Cylinder.
Hi Mark, enjoyed the video. Tomorrow is Di's birthday, the big 70! She loves her sweets so I made her some cupcakes. Tell everyone I said hi, love to all, sis 🌞😃💞
Sorry I responded so late to this comment. I hope she had a great birthday. I don't understand how everyone is getting older and I'm staying so young. :-)
after a few rewinds , I saw it that you had the dots almost at 12 on top and correct at 6 oclock at bottom the way it was before exception of it being one tooth off (top)... great job
Great video again, Mark. You sure are having a lot of problems with that engine build, but it's good to see you work out all the bugs and share your knowledge.
@@timewiththedurbins I have a 5.7 vortec, basically a SBC, it's a rebuilt motor dropped into my Chevy Tahoe, have a rough idle and lack of power, done everything to it from fuel system to sensors to ignition, spent a lot of money just like you, pulls good vacuum, just doesn't run right, compression numbers are great, all within 160 psi, the only thing left is the timing chain. My question is will a tooth off still pull good vacuum?
@@timewiththedurbins I just checked my timing after tearing it down to the timing chain, marks line up perfectly, back to the drawing board, suspected fuel injectors just swapped them out for a different unit, so far seems to run better.
I use a wrapped up napkin stick it in the plug hole on the number one cylinder and rotate engine until it blows off that tells me the compression stroke if it went past top dead center back it up to zero
@@timewiththedurbins I use my compression gauge hose screwed into the spark plug hole with a balloon on the other end of the hose, did you have eratic idle with the tooth off one notch, my new 360 isnt running right and i cant get it to idle down, i cant find any air leaks anywhere, so maybe its my timing chain too
On this engine the timing marks are located at the top of both gears when it is on the compression stroke. On some engines the mark are on the top of the crank gear and the bottom of the cam gear when aligned correctly. You have to make sure which is correct for the engine you are working on. Thanks for your comment.
Chevy’s when the timing marks are together Crank Top/Cam Bottom you are at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #6. That is the way I time it during Assy then I rotate the crank 1 revolution then you are TDC Compression Stroke Cylinder #1. Then you can finish Assy and drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 Cylinder.
It looks like the cam is off 180° either that or bring the points together and then reinsert the distributor and check your timing to the wires firing order Chevy has two firing orders
The timing marks on my engine have to be at the top of both gears at the top of compression stroke. Some engines are different. Thaks for your comment.
Chevy’s when the timing marks are together Crank Top/Cam Bottom you are at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #6. That is the way I time it during Assy then I rotate the crank 1 revolution then you are TDC Compression Stroke Cylinder #1. Then you can finish Assy and drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 Cylinder.
You needed to set the crank to TDC which you can see the keyway is 1 o’clock is that normal. I would of thought the crank pulley mark will face 12 o’clock same as the cam. Is the cam sprocket on back to front etc ?.
Hold on the dots are to be aligned with each other at 1 TDC and not both at the top. Wow this shows how I never ever trust or let anybody touch my vehicles outside of warranty. This is one big screw up.
What was the symptoms I have a 2005 5.3 rebuilt I changed the fuel pump. Checked the injectors all good put new plugs and wires and the damm engine has a rough idle sometimes smooth then stumble at idle not to bad give it gas smoothens out but feels like the power is 70 percent then what I think it should be do u think it’s timing and can I check timing by putting the piston top dead center and remove the valve cover to see if the valves are closed or do I have to remove the timing cover just frustrating having these issues after spending money to have it running 100 percent I love the corvette 💯
Rough idle, no power. You can check it by putting the piston on top dead center on compression stroke and checking to see if both valves are closed. With my car, it still seemed to have a miss at any speed not just at idle.
Bud ,those dots should be aligned with each other at the bottom. Crank dot straight up, cam dot straight down. Dot to dot. The cam dot is NOT supposed to be at the top..
Wow - That is crazy - and unacceptable for an engine builder. It’s so basic. Argh! I hope whoever put that together will give you a partial refund for all your time having to deal with that BS.
I am just glad that the engine is running properly now. I have learned my lesson. I will always assemble my engines from now on but I think in the future I will buy a long block. It is as cheap as having an engine rebuilt.
@@timewiththedurbins Having re-built a couple myself, I tend to agree with you. As long as you’re going for stock or a mild-build, you can get a good product off the shelf and save the time and energy of hauling parts to machine shops, ordering parts, dealing with the mess and stress of checking everything with gauges, etc.
I heard you say you have a popping sound out your exhaust before. Do you have a video of that? I had someone build a Pontiac 400 into a 461 and they dyno the engine and had it on video. They sent me the video and I can tell it’s my engine because I had the paint scheme changed so I would be able to know if it’s my new engine. I have had a problem with a popping sound out my exhaust and it’s been running rich. I would love to hear your car before you fixed the timing. Do you have one? Thank You for your help it’s been a long time.
I believe your off , mine was same but opposite side; If you see cracks and stain replace them , do it right the first time.... You didn't show the dots where they were, when you set your timing chain back together . ..... I saw it before you removed it and it was at 12 o'clock cam and 6 o'clock crank and distributor set at one. Be careful with other videos they only show and explain TDC ( intake power stroke) where the 2 dots are facing each other but when you install your distributor its off 180 degrees... but this video will explain why your 180 degree off on your distributor: ( Small block chevy timing chain installation )
Thanks for the information. My timing chain and gears were brand new. The engine builder installed them incorrectly. Depending on the year of the motor will determine if the dots are together or 180 apart.
I'm trying to tackle a similar performance issue and think I may have jumped time on a 302 sbf. I'm also seeing vacuum at 14in as opposed to 19 normally. It's an Econoline and a pain to get down to the timing cover. Would I be able to verify jumped time with a compression test? I would assume if valve timing has shifted then I would see a compression loss through the valves. Is this a correct assumption or do I need to tear it down?
I don't know how far off you timing would have to be before it started to affect the compression of your engine. My timing was off one tooth and it did not affect the compression on my engine. I would think if it was off far enough it would affect it though.
I have a question how did you do it did you back off the two rockers then move it to the correct tooth your not explaining how you actually did it I have the same problem and can’t figure out how you did this please help
I unbolted the timing gear from the end of the cam. I was able to turn the cam one tooth without backing the rockers off. I then re-installed the gear back on the cam at the correct position.
On this engine the timing marks are located at the top of both gears when it is on the compression stroke. It can be different depending on the engine. Thanks for watching.
Chevy’s when the timing marks are together Crank Top/Cam Bottom you are at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #6. That is the way I time it during Assy then I rotate the crank 1 revolution then you are TDC Compression Stroke Cylinder #1. Then you can finish Assy and drop in the distributor with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 Cylinder.
Neber rebuilt the engine with a shop, becaus they will use aftermarket parts to do so, aftermarket parts qill not last too long like oeiginal one, necause there is heat, feiction vubration insidebthe engine, and in addition tbey will not take care of the care as they suppose to, there will be like timing problem torque problem(wngine part newd somw peopee toeque, of you missed it uo, you qill.have peoblem), electric connectir may get broken while removing or putting back the engine. and aon on.
I noticed your vaccum gauge reads 15 pounds of mercury. On most videos they suggest getting reading about 20. Would running 15 pounds of mercury damage engine? I have 350 chevy small block with mild cam and I also get 15 reading.
My low vacuum reading was caused by bad intake gaskets. I'm not sure it would damage the engine, but it definitely affects the performance. I know that cam type can affect vacuum but I not sure how much. I would check with one of the cam companies.
This is what happens when the builder's think they are smarter than everybody else, with the 12 and 12 timing gear position. I've seen this happen before. Dot to dot is much more reliable, put the distributor in @ #6 or turn the balancer 1 revolution and put in in at #1. Sorry, sucks that you had to go through all that. I'd most definitely be readjusting those valves as well.
