Timing the engine. 

Hey Andrew, I Just wanted to say thanks! I've watched a number of your videos. I haven't touched piston aircraft in around 20 years . You've helped me get spooled back up.

Good video, but some direct lighting on the engine degree wheel & magnetos would be nice to see exactly what you are doing.

I have my powerplant O&P tomorrow, extremely nervous but this helps relieve some anxiety. Good explanation, thanks man!

Going for my test tomorrow and mags are truly a pain point, but between this and multiple other great videos I think I'll be ok.

New video WOOOOOOOO

Port Wine is Red.....Port Side is Left......Thats another good one, but opposite your way :).

Do you ever see any difference using the flower pot and then cross checking the marks on the starter ring gear? I just wonder if they ever show a difference, and if so, how much. I do this procedure with no A&P license. On my homebuilt. 😁

Great vid Andrew, like the simple approach no fluff BS.

Two comments: My mechanic insists that we remove the #1 spark plug just to check the timing at annual. It's not a big deal, because we have to clean and check the plugs anyway. But, unless I'm an idiot, (maybe I am), EVERY cylinder fires at 25 degrees BTDC. And, it doesn't matter which cylinder you check the timing. The only reason to find top dead center on compression stroke of the #1 cylinder is to INSTALL a magneto. But, you still must set the prop at 25 degrees BTDC before you put the mag in. Once it's in there correctly, it doesn't make a hoot which cylinder is on the compression stroke to check the timing. Now, the only reason I watched this video is to see what value you torqued the magneto hold down clip nuts. As usual, no one torques them to a specific torque value. The Lycoming engine manual doesn't give a specific value except for where it says, "17 to 19 ft lbs, or 204 inch pounds, for a 5/16th bolt, nut, or screw". The reason this is so dear to my heart is, I once had a mechanic over tighten a mag, cracking the flange. It almost killed my wife and I. There NEEDS to be a specific torque for magnetos. Why don't we have one?

Can I come and learn from you please , I'm from Nigeria and I like this work , I graduated from technical school , department of automobile , thank you sir

The only way I can get my magneto to get timed !!! Is when I go past TDC and the impulse couplings snap !!! And I go back to my degree and adjust the magneto . What am I doing wrong ???

Thanks Andrew

Good content

Use a better checklist so you get all the explanations and details in the video. Mag-rite has a great instruction card that can be laminated and used as a checklist, just won’t have all the explanations on it.

thanks bro. It helps a lot

Where did you get the digital flower pot?

When exactly did you pull the timing pin out of the left hole. I assume prior to rotating mag to match right one?

Hey Andrew, you forgot to tell everyone not to turn the prop before removing the pin from the back of the mag or you will be repairing that mag all over again. Doug

Don't you have to rotate the propeller to snap the impulse coupling before timing the mag with an impuise coupling? I didn't catch that step in the demonstration.

If you're using the TC mark on the starter ring flange to find TC, is it still necessary to feel the air pressure coming out of the spark plug hole on the compression stroke? It seems redundant. From my point of view, if my sole purpose is to install the magneto, it seems like I can just skip the harness & spark plug removal step and just go straight to lining up the TC mark to the crankcase centerline.

Nice...

Have you got am O235 maintenance manual. I need the Jug nuts torque setting as putting on superior Jugs.

Never saw him remove the timing pin from the left mag. OOPS! Broken pin.

note lucen los lentes

Remember to K.I.S.S.! USE the Ring gear markings. So called "Flower pots" are a waste of time.