All is well! Just working at a place now that doesn’t allow recording. The plan was to continue working on aircraft on the weekends. But haven’t really found the schedule for it yet.
Hey a video of your face, thanks. Instructional video without any instructions. May need a new Weight and Balance after all that filler. (Sorry to be a dick, you're just a kid, so please take this in the humorous manner it was intended) 🤪
Do you ever see any difference using the flower pot and then cross checking the marks on the starter ring gear? I just wonder if they ever show a difference, and if so, how much. I do this procedure with no A&P license. On my homebuilt. 😁
Great work man. I am pulling the rudder pedal bars on my 210 right now, is how I stumbled on the video. I pulled the cabin door to make it easier to work in the plane. Also anytime you are working on a Cessna Single retract nose gear take a look at SK210-155. The tool for this is unobtanium, but you can do it without the drill guide using a mill (so I am told). Also SE84-3. I think I might have to bring my plane to you, great work.
Would you have been able to extend the repair bracket all the way to the firewall to reinforce the whole rudder pedal mounting area on that side rather than just the crack at the aft bolt? Seems like a better idea since you are already in there to extend the repair bracket to also strengthen the fwd bolt mounting area. Thank you for posting. Definitely a challenge with the limited space to work.
What about the two flush rivets on the door aft of the lower hinge? They looked pulled through, hard to tell in the video. As a standard practice whether going to paint or not, lay down a moving blanket or some sort of protection for the paint. Other customers coming into the shop have no idea that aircraft would be going to paint, seeing your tools laying all over the wing is bad practice. I would have done a wet application of the repair brackets, rain and moisture would work right behind that in flight. Thank you for posting.
Replaced a rebuild carburetor from aircraft spruce, so long story short the carburetor turned out to be defective. Send it back RMA required etc. aircraft down until it was decided on their end it in fact was defective that took 5 weeks . Air spruce finally sends me another carburetor at no charge. Well the a&p ia doesn’t want to install it for free first time install $1000 second time install $1000. Big question I have who is responsible to pay for the second install. Well certainly not aircraft spruce it’s against their policy so it must be the rebuilder no it’s not their policy either. One would expect aircraft spruce using a vender that doesn’t check the carburetor for failure would be responsible. No they stress it’s against policy I suggest they revise their policy. So installing a carburetor is quite labor intensive in a Mooney one doesn’t want to do this job twice. Be careful who you buy your rebuild parts from otherwise it could cost you double. There are better suppliers out there , some company’s have grown big enough and take advantage of us unaware consumers. Thanks for the video
Two comments: My mechanic insists that we remove the #1 spark plug just to check the timing at annual. It's not a big deal, because we have to clean and check the plugs anyway. But, unless I'm an idiot, (maybe I am), EVERY cylinder fires at 25 degrees BTDC. And, it doesn't matter which cylinder you check the timing. The only reason to find top dead center on compression stroke of the #1 cylinder is to INSTALL a magneto. But, you still must set the prop at 25 degrees BTDC before you put the mag in. Once it's in there correctly, it doesn't make a hoot which cylinder is on the compression stroke to check the timing. Now, the only reason I watched this video is to see what value you torqued the magneto hold down clip nuts. As usual, no one torques them to a specific torque value. The Lycoming engine manual doesn't give a specific value except for where it says, "17 to 19 ft lbs, or 204 inch pounds, for a 5/16th bolt, nut, or screw". The reason this is so dear to my heart is, I once had a mechanic over tighten a mag, cracking the flange. It almost killed my wife and I. There NEEDS to be a specific torque for magnetos. Why don't we have one?
In response to your comment “every cylinder fires 25 degrees BTDC,” this is true but it doesn’t fire EVERY time it passes 25 degrees BTDC. Only every other time since one pass is the compression stroke and the other pass is the exhaust stroke. You of course don’t want your spark plug firing on the exhaust stroke so that’s why the magnetos are installed and timed during the compression stroke ie 25 degrees BTDC. Does that address your concern? I may have completely misunderstood what you were asking/saying though.
Do you have to loosen the attachment bolts at the root ? the wing does show considerable drop once the strut is removed. Does this cause any damage to the wing spar? Thanks
Good question! So the how this year of Cessna 150 is built the wings are connected to to the fuselage with 2 bolts and bushings that allow the the wing to hinge up and down freely without damaging or breaking torque off the spar bolts. Sorry for the late response. But a really good question.
The only way I can get my magneto to get timed !!! Is when I go past TDC and the impulse couplings snap !!! And I go back to my degree and adjust the magneto . What am I doing wrong ???
Hey Andrew, you forgot to tell everyone not to turn the prop before removing the pin from the back of the mag or you will be repairing that mag all over again. Doug
Audio indicates that you know what you're doing. But you can't see anything on the video. How did you hook the tubes. How did you apply the pressure. Did I see a different video with all that edited out?
