Hey man, I know this was posted 4 years ago, but my son and I have been building a 69 mustang, with a 289 out of a 65. I haven't been able to get the damn distributor dialed in until your video. Every other video left me with more questions than answers. Found your video last night, and our project started for the first time last night. Thanks man!
Converted my 1971 Mustang Coupe from a 2 barrel intake to a 4 barrel and forgot to set the timing to TDC before removing things. Was backfiring and sputtering until my brother and I found this video, got it running properly in 30 minutes thanks to you! AWESOME!
Instead of fiddling around trying to get it to drop in the oil pump shaft just turn the crank until it drops down then turn the crank back to 10 degrees, so much easier.
Thanks for the refresher course, I remembered the steps, But forgot the position on the rotor, You made it straight to the point without all the selling products the way I like it, Really simple.
I was going to say man you should be a professor of car engines because you explain so well and clearly, but then you said in class and I was like ok, makes perfect sense. He is a teacher after all.
Omg!!!! Very simple and to the point. A co worker actually sent me this video knowing that I was having trouble starting my car. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a million.
Yes, good video.👍👍 Manually set the crank and then tune the cap right too it with the pen light on Coil negative to battery positive . 5:55 Tap sliping the oil pump around actually works too. You just got to remember to return to your mark. I did a ford 460 today the exact same way Exquisite video knowledge for all ol'fords, good job
Great video! 4:15 instead of playing with it, just bump the starter once and it'll drop right down. Just read that tip in my '66 service manual and it worked perfect!
Doing that will also move the timing off 10° before TDC. You'll notice in the video after he gets it on the compression stroke and sets it at the 10° mark, the engine doesn't rotate again until they start it. The oil pump is also driven off the distributor, so bumping the engine doesn't make the oil shaft spin, but instead the cam gear rotates. The idea he shows in the video is to force the oil pump to rotate to match the rest of the engine, not vice-versa.
Thanks so much for showing how you had to fiddle with it to get it to seat completely. I had a hard time getting mine to seat, and now I understand why.
Thanks a bunch for making this video!! As a mechanically inclined guy with little Automotive experience this was perfect!! And I didn’t need a set of fancy tools. :)
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Ernest Solomon i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks. My brother changed some stuff on my car due to no start condition turned out to be a fusable link wire. He changed everything cause he was helping. So your video helped me a lot. I'm a painter not a mechanic lol.
Thanks for this. I don't work on Fords. I'm a GM man. Working on a 289 that someone screwed up putting the dist in. Vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat housing and it needs to go even more to time it.
Great Video have a 64 Mustang over in the UK and wanted to check the timing as it developed a misfire hard to start and popping through the carb. Yet to try it but great detailed video 👍🏼
Everything is good and enjoyable! I have never interacted with such old people - V8, but I have marks on the crankshaft pulley in a different place. motor 1966
I see what he's trying to do it's a good way of finding top TC of the compression stroke if you go past the timing mark make sure you turn it back a little bit farther and then turn it back to where you want the timing to be set which 10° is pretty good then when you put the distributor in and the rotor don't line up it's no big deal just estimate how much farther the rotors going to turn turn it back to the desired amount and all you do is rotate the engine backwards until the distributor falls into place then rotate it back to 10° and see if her roller lines up to where it should be normally the rotor doesn't go straight to the rear but a little bit to your right which is the left side of the engine then all you have to do watch your points turn the distributor until the points just start to open and you're right on top and where you want the timing mark to be I've done many engines many and sometimes I don't even have to move distributor when I put the timing light on it. PS I learned a lot of tricks from working on VW just valves set and timing..
Thanks. Not sure just how to use every bit of everything you did, but I have done everything except put a light to it which seems key. My 65 289 is a beast but won't stay running. I will try what I can remember.
Getting recommendations for time in the same engine without a vacuum advance. It’s locked out. We have it turned that way and I wanted to know if I can get all out of it get.
Definitely an early 289 before the government regulated PCV system. Note the breather tube sticking up from the timing cover. It stands for independence! Love it!
So where do I set my marks if there is no numbers of degree? It says TDC and then slashes after but no numbers? Love the video extremely informative but just a little stuck with this. Thanks for your time.
Mark, Great video. I have a question. I went through your process on my 70 Boss 302 with a dual point distributor. The light on my test light was dimly lite all the time and when the points opened I got a bright light on the test light. I am wondering why I have a constant dim light all the time? Does it have something to do with the dual points? Thanks
shelbygt350r I have a 70 Boss 302 in my F-150. I don’t think my distributer has dual points though. The timing is terrible right now, and I’m hoping this video helps. I don’t know if I have any numbers or pointer though. We’ll find out today!
It's interesting that if you Google 289 firing order you can find images that show the no.1 position in 3 or 4 different places but the firing order is always the same. In my case l tried putting the number one lead at the 12 o'clock position and the engine wouldn't start and back fired through the carb. After some investigation l discovered the the no. 1 position was actually at the 3 o'clock position relative to the video here. Different distributors maybe?
Oh wow this is amazing. Would this timing procedure apply to a 1973 302? My engine is shaking like crazy during idle, back fires, and dies as soon as its placed in gear.
Pretty nice to bring back stuff I learned in automotive school. I know this distributor had points. With the turning of the unit to get the light off, on a point less distributor do that light matter?
Excellent explanation. Thank you! One question: how tie my distributor should be? I got a Ford F-100 1972 and the distributor is a little bit loose. Btw, it doesn't start. I guess because it is not timed, maybe? Thanks for your help.
Outstanding! thanks you I didn't know about the the cylinder numbers stamped. Question could the crank shaft be moved to get the distributor to drop in vice stabbing it over and over? Again thanks a lot learn something new!
This last time I put my distributor in, the rotary is facing the front, it usually faced the direction of the master cylinder. My question is, should it. Cause now my car is over heating and that's the only difference I can think of.
Please help! My uncle and I put a 302 in my 66 mustang. Everything was top dead center, distributer on 1 (mine ignition 1 doesn't point straight back like yours more back right) never did the 10 or 12 degree thing or the light test/timing gun. It starts, needs a new carb, and has a misfire. Do I have to redue the timing? The distributor? If my timing is off would that cause my car to shake when trying to accelerate? Car shakes really bad when going 35 or is that do to the carb/possible misfire? Thank you!!!!!
I understood everything until I saw that number 1 on the distributor cap. It through me off only because I always see it pointed at the number one cylinder and not have it on the cap. I know that the wire on that number one cylinder was placed at the number one spark plug so I know it's correct. I just have never seen it done that way and I always said to my self why must it be pointed at the number one cylinder when no matter where it's pointed if you're on compression of the number one and connect the wire to it, number one can be started anywhere. Am I correct in that understanding ?
I know this vid has been out for a while. Couple of questions. If you dont set the initial timing by use of the damper, could you get the "12" degrees of timing by turning" advancing" the timing at the distributer? Assuming there is enough room to turn it far enough. Secondly, does it matter where the rotor is pointing as long as you use that spot on the cap for your number 1 cylinder? Btw, very informative video!
At the time of this recording. We had this trainer set up so one button turned on the ignition and the second button engaged the starter. We have since moved to a switch with a key. Similar to a rotary switch.
I have a 79 Lincoln continental 4.0 6.6 L. Could you please walk me through how to do the top dead center procedure on a distributor without points. I believe my distributor is an electronic distributor
Hey Mark, I have a 351 windsor efi and timing is throwing me off! When I get #1 on compression my timing mark is is 10 degrees atdc #1 on the dizzy is lined up perfect! But when I check this thing with a timing light its 16 to 20 atdc! The more I advance toward 10 btdc it starts to idle way to hi and my headers start to glow red hot quick after start up! When I have it set to where the motor seems happy header elbows dont get as hot but still getting red at at collection of tubes close to the shortie flange were it hooks up to exhaust especially when I raise the RPMs tubes will heat back up! Im lost!
