A not so brief example of a woven wire gut strain. Visit farmfencesolutions.com or call 844-48-FENCE for all of your fencing needs. We have the best contractor pricing in the business, and we welcome all Tornado Wire dealer inquiries.
Nice video, straight to the point. It made me laugh though: "These are the (forget the brand) strainers..... this is a brand new set." *immeaditly drops it in the dirt* 😂
I heard you say you use this method for half a mile stretches? Thats impressive. We need to fence 1700ft on one side of our property (3 sides already fenced). I have watched a ton of videos and yours was very informative and straight to the point. Thanks!
Watched you on StoneyRidge Farmer. I had to subscribe to your channel. Your knowledge is amazing and have learned a lot. Thanks and Be Safe and Take Care.
Thanks for the vid. I have strained 200m+ 14 linewire deer netting by tieing a tempory loop in one end with bail twine, stuck a wooden post through the loop and used a snig chain and tractor to apply tension. Only works with wooden posts though because you staple the line wires to the straining post in front of the knots before cutting & tieing off. Certain post treatments can cause the wires to rust at the staples, but you can certainly put the strain on this way.
Fine tidy looking job.i like the steel fence posts.they will last forever.was thinking of changing all my strainer posts from timber to steel.sick of having to dig them up when they rot.from ireland
How long are the strainers lasting for you? I just fitted some 4” pt round posts as strainers and wondering what their life expectancy is here. Cheers, north county Dublin
That steel post that grips the fence with wedges looked pretty good and the tensioner as well. Heard a lot of bad things about the Gripple fasteners tho. Not reuseable and may let go over time. I have a problem with barbed wire as the deer always break one wire when running and once one wire is gone there may as well be no fence to contain animals. So we are slowly switching over to woven wire.
Gripples are reusable, and we do not see the failures you speak of. The Gripple Plus is much improved over the original version, which would let moisture in and caused a failure once it froze up. Thanks for watchin!
I'm a city boy with absolutely no connection to this - but I find it fascinating! Looks like your work is really thorough and you present it very well. I'll watch more! Why does he sound so familiar at points?? Finally figured it out - Karl Childers (the character's name in "Slingblade" - must be same part of the country?).
I really enjoyed the video it had a lot information and made a lot of common sense again I really appreciate you taking the time to make the video I will be contacting Farm fence Solutions
I would have tighten, then tied it down to a good post. Once you cut that fence, you will always have a weak spot there. I like your chain pullers though. I always pinch my fingers using come-a-longs.
So there are many ways to cut a fence or to stretch and tie one off. This particular method was to demonstrate a gut strain, which is a very common practice for us on extremely long runs, where multiple rolls of fence are joined together. With the use of a crimp sleeve, no strength is lost. With the use of figure 8 or Tex Brown knots, plenty of strength is retained. This use of Gripples was intended to be a tutorial for those who like or need them, such as a DIY farm/ranch project. We often stretch to an end, but not always. Thanks for watching!
I'm up on the NY/Ontario border. I've never seen a welded steel fence post system or high tensile woven wire. Up here it's local cedar and maybe locust. I wonder how they'd react to frost 2-3 feet deep? Looks very expensive, but very, very sturdy. Well done.
Typically, here in Texas, I drive my posts 4 feet down but depending on the soil type where I’m building, I can drive them down 6 feet. So I’m sure if someone wanted to in your area, with the right tools, they could set them to handle whatever y’alls winter frost line is. On average, our “frost line” is 18 inches, but I’d say we don’t have a winter like that but maybe every 10 years or so to even reach that.
I swear I've watched this video at least five times! 😊 It has SO much useful information! I am making a deer fence so I can grow fruit trees without them getting devoured. In the video you mention that it's possible to use just the gripple tool to tension a shorter length of fence... How short exactly? My longest run is 80' and I'm wondering if I can skip investing in the strainers and board. Thank you very much!
this guy is a professional. nice work. Now how to put a concrete post in rather wet underground? Dig a hole fairly bigger than that post. align the post, verse in a sac of quality obourg cement and do a bucket of water in it. Let dry.
Thanks! We use 11 gauge post ties, that twist on with a cordless drill. (Available from Farm Fence Solutions) We have a pipe fence video coming soon, where they will be displayed in more detail.
Very useful video,, thank you for your informations, Let me know please how did you call the tools at 7'20'' and after, the ones that work with the chains,,,Many thanks
The test patch…. Long distance posts… I know this is super old it but looks like that would work for alpaca, minus the hot wire on top. Have you had any clients try it? They don’t really challenge fence line so I’m thinking this spacing would be fine. How’s the fence holding up? Wish you were in Eastern Washington
Is it best to but the welded wire on the Inside so if it's pushed or lean against from the inside it can hold more pressure. Or is best on the outer part?
That is Tornado Titan fixed knot woven wire, which is different than welded wire.....But, it makes absolutely no difference on a properly installed fence which side of the post the wire is on. Thanks!
i'll be fencing my yard and wanted to use tornado wire with steel posts. it will be square shaped roughly 100x100. could this be tensioned with a gut strain?
I'm also from West Coast of Washington state, it depends on alot of factors wood vs steel and longevity. With wood and the amount of rain that we receive, soil density, rock pack depth, type of wood used, treated or non treated very on longevity, I've seen wood posts last a 3years to 15years it all depends on how much time you want to put into them in the preparation. The same goes for steel posts in the climate in the PNW you can make them last longer if you want it's all about time vs money I'm a industrial coatings and concrete inspector by trade but have lived in a small hick town most of my life.
Is the red paint on the post fairly fresh or is it cured. It scratched off easily. Will you come back and touch up the paint? By the way, the pipe welds are beautiful!
Chip Friday That paint was pretty fresh, and it does scratch easily. We generally use a galvanized pipe post, and have them powder coated if we need a specific color for a customer. Thanks!
Tell me what you think I discovered by accident when the spring fell off my Hayes wire strainer which is similar to my strainrite that it was nicer to use with no spring when you go to back it off cos now I put one hand on the jaws when tightening to do the job of the spring as my other hand is all I need when tightening
Claetus Woodroofe I agree. We stock springless as well, but the spring loaded grabs seem to suit a lot of our customers too. Might be a good comparison video?🤷♂️
Okay, next time I put up woven wire I'm trying it this way. Question - can I get away with skipping the gripples and splicing the wire via wrapping them together once I cut the slack out? Sorry if I missed that in the video.
I use a Tex Brown knot when tying under tension, and it works great. You can also substitute crimp sleeves in place of the Gripples. We have a Tornado Wire dealer in Florence, TX if you need any of our products. Thanks!
When I am watching a video and I know the person is doing it right. Then I look over and see how many idiots clicked the, "I am a dumb ass" thumbs down button. Yup, 10% of the population are dumb asses. Thanks for the video.
Hi there, any thoughts on these 3 things with fencing and hinge joint 1 How do you face the T posts, so the netting meets with the flat section of the T or the pointy section, if that makes sense. 2 Do you run single line HT wire at top and bottom of net, or, do you just use the existing strands fixed to posts to hang the nettiing. On internal this is prob too much. 3 I have undulating land, I have a run that goes on a right angle, so 3 strainer posts, from the middle one is approx 100ft run each way, but one side of the middle post is pretty flat, the other is going up hill, I was told I can do this as one run, but thinking about it, this would probably only work if land was flat each way ?
Your questions look very familiar.....CT forum? 1 Flat side. I read where fence recommended the pointy side to you, but our T posts have nubs on the flat side, so I'm assuming that's the side he was referring to. 2 Yes, I usually run a plain line under and over, or a plain wire under and barbed over. 3 Yes, it sounds like you should be able to do that in one hitch easy enough. Hope all is well down south! Cheers
@@farmfencesolutionsllc Yes too CT :) I meant a wire at top at same height as the pre fab fence, and maybe mid and bottom, would make it easy I guess to clip the pre fab to wires using hog clips.....as it is, I wont be doing that, will just do pre fab and tie wires to star posts.... I will try it all in one run, spent today doing star posts and cement on stays and a bit of ground leveling under the run, I used small pipe I had, used old star posts to jamb stay pipe in place, and put a cement mix to hold it together, I saw you welded some of yours, but I think the cement will do same, and wont be lot of strain over 150 or so ft anyway.. Thanks for your info :)
@@gregausit Yes, we tie the bottom strand of plain wire in with the bottom strand of net, and sometimes a barbed in the middle. We usually go above the top of the net with a barbed or plain wire, but tie it in with the top strand of the net once in a while. It sounds like your plan will work just fine, but keep in mind that you won't have less force on a brace assembly in a short run than you would in a long run. 2.5 mil will give you 200kg forces or so, no matter the length. Cheers.
We do use quite a bit of wood, as well as raw drill stem and galvanized pipe, but it comes down to the customers preference and budget. Tornado Wire on galvanized pipe makes a fence that, if constructed properly, will last 50 years or more, and has a similar cost to properly treated wood posts. This particular video was filmed in the middle of a drought, where pipe was the best and least expensive option.
Farm Fence Solutions LLC how are welded schedule 40 braces and terminal posts run as lines cheaper than ground treated lumber or even marine grade lumber? Understand the labor but 35 to 50% higher on materials in my part of the world
A well treated .40 CCA 5"x8' post, delivered to our yard, costs nearly $12. I can also buy the same size post, very poorly treated, for about $7. A Class III galvanized SS40 is $2 or $3 more right now. I'm not saying that wood has no use in a fence, but if the wire will last 50-60 years, why not use a post that will, as well? If the good CCA posts last 30 years, that's 40 cents per year per post. If the junk CCA posts last 10 years, that's 70 cents per year per post. Class III SS40, we already know will last at least 60 years, or 25 cents per post per year. Now figure in the labor savings, since you don't have to build the fence two or three extra times, AND it's gentler on the post driver. Not sure where your part of the world is, but I'd be glad to quote a load of pipe and wire for you, if you like. Thanks for the question.
Sometimes an end strain is the best practice, and we use it on a regular basis. (Video coming soon) On a short pull, like the one in this video, we would actually simply gut strain it with the Gripples and no stretcher boards/chains. On long runs with multiple direction changes, a gut strain is the best way to achieve even tension. While pulling to an end may be easier in some instances, it's not always the best way. Thanks for watching, and for the comment.
Yea it's really whatever you're used to. We have also center pulled, especially with longer stretches. We usually center pull if we're stretching more than two rolls at a time. I just find it easy to throw one set of stretchers on, throw a chain to my loader and pull. Tying wire together has always been my least favorite part of building fence though hahaha. Thank God for gripples eh? Good work! Nice to speak with you.
Sry for the dumb question... but I’m assuming you fixed the mesh wire at either end of your run before you started to apply tension and join in the middle?
Tornado Wire is more consistent, with matching tension line wires to prevent slack line wires or snapping ends when tying off. We are priced very competitively with similar products, but with better quality and customer service, in my opinion. A well constructed fence using Tornado Wire will last a lifetime or two. Please feel free to give us a call anytime if you'd like to talk wire. Thanks! 844-48-FENCE
Just curious ... why not pull the tension to the end post (within 3 feet), and then cut and tie it off? Why put the tension in the middle and cut a section out & mend it? Seems like an extra step when running short fence lengths.
We stretch to the end quite often, but not every situation is the same. This is simply an example of how we would do a center pull, or gut strain, and it certainly does not imply that it's the only way. In a long stretch where two rolls would be joined anyhow, pulling around several direction changes, or stretching with limited access would all be examples of when we would use a gut strain. This is also a very good method for very short runs, as it eliminates the possibility of any slack let back into the line. Thanks for the comment!
I like to hand knot, but I understand that isn't for everyone. T clip Gripples work well, and are very quick. Here is a link to what an end looks like when I hand knot net wire on pipe. www.farmfencetalk.co.uk/gallery/image/592-img_4774jpg/ Thanks for watching!
It just hit me that you probably meant on the line posts...... We use a post clip that is tightened with a cordless drill. We stock them for most common sizes of pipe.
We have an end strain video in the works, but a gut strain is my preferred method, because it's easier, faster, and a more even stretch on long runs with direction changes. Making off an end under tension, in my opinion, is more difficult and time consuming. Each method has it's place, and we use them both on a regular basis. One thing that is never recommended is to stretch past an end and hard staple while you tie off. When using high tensile net, staples will not hold an end if the fence is tensioned properly. Thanks for the good question and for watching!
Sorry I'm just a dumn hick from Texas but I use an old Chevy with come along and I wire two fences together with a nice loop tie at my joins no fancy equipment or cuplers that I know my horses just gonna break
