Question, can these be used to frame roofs? I am thinking if they can handle the load of a 2 x 6 or 2x8, then they should benefit us greatly as a roof rafter.
I've got 24 inch spacing in my house. It's not the Tstud but the drywall doesn't hold well and bows. I would only go 16 on center. My father was a builder and wasn't happy when he saw the 24 on center work. It's all cost savings and not about home stability. I do like the product. Anything to break that heat / cold transfer. Now I'm looking on youtube for actually construction of the product.
Even with the computer volume at 100% and RU-vid at 100% the volume was a little too low. I had to turn on the CC to follow along. BTW the CC algorithm made many mistakes. Interesting product though. It would be interesting to know if those same paybacks are achievable after delivering all the way to Vancouver and Victoria BC Canada. Typically no AC is required in this relatively mild climate, zone 7/8 on the coast.
Why did you change the orientation from parallel to perpendicular? I preferred the larger nailing surface… if it was strength alone, how much stronger is the new style vs the old and do you really need that?
Nice job with The video and the design of these new studs! I think once you can get past the learning curve of using these it’s going to be a great addition to energy savings. I was actually thinking of this design myself but you beat me to it. Lol
I’m gonna need an eta on some t-rafters. I was thinkin to use the same as a t-stud but to have a section on the ends spliced in of solid wood for the birds mouth and for rafter tails. No real need to have insulated rafter tails. Any thoughts yet. Naturally this would be used in a place where spray foam is going to be used in rafters rather than ceiling joists.
One other issue I thought of is because the stud thickness The ability to use a standard width Insulation batt is not possible so you’re forced to either cut the insulation or use an alternative method of wall insulation. What are your builders doing to remedy this?
About half of our jobs have spray in HFO foam, 25% are blown in cellulose or fiberglass and the last 25% use batts. 60% of all batts are cut anyways, so they've been cutting down the last 40% to make them fit.
I don’t think it would be too wise to go through all the expense of these studs and then use regular bat insulation. I would closed cell foam it 2” then Rockwool the rest. I guess the question you asked would still be valid on rockwool.
I saw your video with Matt Risinger in Elk River on the Build Show. We're remodeling our 50s rambler right now so I only have one question: where can I buy these in the Twin Cities area ASAP?
Curious ... looking at the dwv and hitting a dowel. How difficult would it be to cut out the foam run your piping then re foaming that area with expanding foam? Would that remove much if any R value? I would think not. Second question if doing dense pack cellulose will it pack around an open void area that does not have the foam interior. Doing this how much is reduced in the strength of the stud if no foam is in place, that I would think is provided by having the foam. Again this might be a bit easier with plumbing runs
@@cpad007 would think that if one pays attention to where the dowels go thru and how the edge lays out one should be able to figure out where the dowel is lOCATED
Love the look of the product but I would cut down the length of the video, get a tripod, a clip mic for your shirt, and use someplace other than a basement for the whole video. This will help a lot for people watching these to learn about the product.
@Cris LeRose lol, the perfect reply! This is my second time viewing the video (refresher) and reading the comments... still just as good as the first time around.
Love your product but stop talking about cold or heat. It is all heat and what we call cold is simply further down the slope of temperature. There is no such thing as cold in physics or engineering.
