1. Warm up the car a little - helps the oil flow 2. Chock the rear wheels. 3a. Replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug. 3b. Consider a valve like Fumoto if you do this a lot... 3c. Ideally the drain plug should be torqued to manufacturer spec. Do not over tighten. 4. After removing the filter: VERIFY: the gasket did not stick to the engine side. 5. Record the information in the owner's manual (date, mileage, oil brand, version, weight, filter brand-model) (Better: use a spreadsheet). 6. Consider sending a sample of oil to be tested to an oil testing lab. (Full disclosure: I never have). A nice thing about the ramps is that on some cars it actually helps get more oil out of the engine.
The main reason is so that you don’t have any oil leaks. The washer is a crush washer. This means that it can be this deformed depending on how much force you exert on the bolt to tighten it down. I have reused mine on several occasions. As long as you check the plug to confirm that you are not having leaks you should be OK. But since they’re under $.50, you likely should not take the chance and just replace them.
@@willpage79 Crush washers deform to provide a better seal and to provide a pressure that helps prevent the drain bolt from coming undone. Since it deforms, you cannot re-use it*. They are so cheap I just buy a bunch at a time. *If it's made of copper, heat it red and quench in cold water - then re-use. Don't see these on cars, however.
@@willpage79 Look at the bill - it should be on there. If not, ask why? IAC, if you do it yourself, do it right and replace the washer every time. Do not over tighten and if possible - use a torque wrench set correctly for your car - at least the first few times so you get a feel for it. It does not need to be on super tight. It's just holding itself in place to stop the oil - nothing else! Have fun!
I have the same drain pan, and found it works better if I open the vent before draining my oil. Otherwise, it seems like the oil doesn’t go in fast enough.
Fun fact. I had a job after high school where I had to drain stainless steel whey tankers. It was highly critical to open the manhole on the top of the tank before attempting to drain the tanker. Opening the manhole allowed air to displace the whey as the product flowed from the tanker. After I left, one of the newbies on the job neglected to open the manhole above the tanker. When he began pumping, a huge vacuum was created and the steel tube collapsed and ruined trailer. A very expensive mistake.
I have a quick question on this, I own a 2017 Corolla which calls for 4.5 quarts. But i forgot and poured all 5 quarts in. Will this be a problem?thank you and great video!
If you add too much oil to your car engine, the crankshaft can hit the oil and foam the oil, resulting in engine damage. Fortunately, no action is needed if the oil level is only slightly above. However, if you overfill it 0.2″ or more above the MAX mark, you may need to drain some of the oil. The engine oil reserve holds some extra oil to compensate for the fluid expansion due to hot conditions. Adding an extra half a quart will not damage your engine. However, anything more than that could be harmful to the engine.
As I understand it, it depends on your locale. Some require them to be recylced along with used oil. Some places it's not required. Some places like where I live it's not required and nobody will accept oil filters for recycling, so they just go in the trash.
Thanks for commenting. I have used Fram oil filters on all of my Hondas for over 30 years and NEVER had any issues. In fact, my 2006 Honda was at 200,000 miles when I sold it and it ran like a top and didn’t burn any oil. I'm not sure why anyone would suggest they're not any good.
@@BudsSmartHome Purolator has better oil filters for cheaper though, I prefer the Bosch’s which are marginally more expensive, but worth the cost difference since the manufacturer and model of filter is typically more important than the brand and type of oil, given the correct specs for the right application. But really, watch the videos, they are very surprising considering Fram sells the most filters
@@meaculpamishegas1121- I will review a couple of the videos so that I can make informed decisions going forward. I appreciate your concern and suggestion. Thank You! 😀
can get a lisle splatter shield that stops that, but it's around 30 bucks depending on where you get it from. it looks similar to those green scouring pads on dish sponges.
Anyone use that drain pan with a high flow diesel? The first time I used it, I realized it wasn't draining into the hole fast enough and it over flowed. Mods? Advice?
Chilidog I use a cut down 5 gallon bucket , I did the same thing. 3 gallons out of a 6.7 Cummins comes out so fast I haven’t found a drain pan that works better.
Good job. I had to do the same thing with my old steel ramps. So Honda really is 7,500 Mi. between oil changes? And ''their filter every other change.'' There is so much controversy now about when to change oil. I heard one Honda dealer respond by saying ''we will set the service due indicator where ever the customer wants it''.
Bud; You're welcome. Good point about the filter. Does you're Honda use or leak any oil? I purchased my 05 Accord 18 months ago when it had 39K mi on it. It now has 74K. I've been going by the Honda manual ( It's service records since new reflected every 7.5K mi by a Dealer) and was seeing a loss of about 3/4 of a quart between changes before I let Wall mart change it twice. Using there synthetic blend, hi mi. oil. The car stopped both leaking and using oil. You can laugh at this if you want to, but I have been reading a lot about Wall Mart's ST Oils and am convinced enough to switch over to them. I used Pennzoil for many years, but now it's pricey even at Wall Mart. never dreamed I would switch to a Wall Mart oil, but it is highly recommended by a growing amount of people, and much more economical. According to the American Petroleum Institute, all oils they have approved work about the same :)
Hi Reynaldo, personally, I have only used it for oil changes. However, if I needed to drain my transmission fluid, I would not worry about any oil residue. The amount of residue would be insignificant, and would not affect the ability to recycle the fluids, in my opinion.
And the same can be said with k&n oil filters...it has the tendency to leak from the seal. I know cuz it already happened twice when I used those filters.
