I would like to add anything that touches concrete green board should be used due to the moisture that is held in concrete. Any nail going in the green board should be triple zinc coated nails to resist corrosion from the chemicals used in green board.
Thank you, this is the best video on the subject I’ve found. I’m gonna be building a house soon, I’m gonna have a contractor put the shell up then I’m gonna finish framing out the interior, and this is the way I want to do it.
For anyone planning to do a spray foam insulation, would be wise to cover the exterior covering with building wrap as you did, this keeps the foam from adhering to it and thus makes exterior repairs go smoothly and easily. I plan to cover the exterior with insulated sheets or panels (Quad Lock R-etro or In So Fast) with furring strips or even Zip-R.as such would provide a better thermal break than just wall cavity insulation such as rockwool (Roxul) which seems to be the best fiber type insulation according to many and I happen to like as i got to know more about it over the years. My overall plan is to have an (8 or 10 inch thick core) ICF basement foundation, would be clear span width of 30 (or up to 60 foot wide if I decide I need that much space) with an icf slab covering it with a cavity to which engineered wood joists would be placed for a softer floor than concrete is. Sitting atop that would be a Post Frame home attached using either dry or wet set brackets (Midwest Permacolumn), thus the continued use of EPS panels (with furring strips) up to the eave on just the outside, so as to keep the interior space maximized. Depending on terrain and soil conditions and other factors considered, it would look something like that of a Silverwing at Sandpoint home (see link), with the "hangar" space below grade. And if it was hillside type terrain then one end would be exposed with a large opening for parking a few cars. Of course there would be some basement area closed off for utility and storage at one end, with the rest being open use space for hobby or playing (got a few nephews). www.silverwingatsandpoint.com/units_floorplans.html
Actually there is a code exception that states otherwise. But I did use pressure treated lumber on the bottum. As freedom said if you install a vapor barrier, and I do have one. The first walls I originally didnt and decided to go back and redo them out of caution. :)
@@BevinsBuilds Lol - there's no way you went back and took out all of those walls and swapped those bottom plates. Should have used treated, and you should have also used a sill sealer underneath the bottom plate.
Wonderful presentation. I am looking for a detailed interior framing and you did it. The best part with your approach is creation of a thermal barrier.
Hello and thanks, I know the sound quality isnt the best on this video but all my equipment was still packed when I made it. Im glad you were able to enjoy it. I have another video as well discussing some of the important things to consider for construction of the main structure also. It was posted yesterday. 😀
@Darrell Bevins. I do believe Charles Agnello is correct. When that slab starts moving I expect the drywall will crack if not some of the lumber. Think about it. The poles are buried around 4 ft deep and below frost line so they are stable. However, the slab is just sitting on top of the ground so it will move. That's why conventional stick built construction in cold climates uses a 3-4 ft deep concrete footer around the entire perimeter.
Well this is my second pole barn and Ive never had that occur to my first. I do get the logic though yes. But the heaving should only occur if your not keeping the space heated.
@@BevinsBuilds I've seen slabs sink and lift in fully heated houses and also basements. And that's with footers and sump drains. Floating the bottom plate is really cheap and easy so really no reason not to do it imo. If one of your posts gets jacked out of the ground you're really going to be hating life. Kudos for doing this yourself.
@@johnjames5020 Thanks, you are right it would be easy but unfortunately all the walls are already framed and drywalled so Im not going back now. But again Ive never had a issue with my previous building. There are lots of things to take into consideration when looking at the possibilites of heaving. Soil type for example, which for me is pure sand and Ive dug down to 4ft deep and still pure sand. And yes heaving can occur in sand but it is generally unlikely when it is as dry as my area and irragated. Where I have witnessed heaving before is usually in very wet areas but mostly on clay or hard soils. As for cracks, i would not have hurt feelings as this is a barn and not a house. It will be used as a display area and work shop. So although I dont want cracks if it occurs I wont be upset :) and now know its a possibilty but being I am by no means a expert drywaller or carpenter I half expect to get some cracking anyway. The posts heaving out of the ground again I dont see as my posts are notched for the headers to rest in. That being said if one raises it would pull the entire wall up and raise the roof. Which would create a lot more issues than just cracked walls. But I can also say this that I can stick shims between the slab and walls any where along the perimiter of the building and Im already halfway through winter. As the framing in between the walls isnt tight, which was one of the reasons I used 1 tapcon at the center of each span is to keep the wall from being able to be pushed in at the middle from the inside. I do appreciate all the feedback though :)
Nice job. If you live in northern climates this method does not allow for your concrete pad to float with frost. This method can be used by doubling up the bottom plate and leaving it an 1 1/2" off the floor fasting them to the posts only.
Charles Agnello Are you saying bottom plates would not touch the ground at all? Putting up walls this weekend in my Michigan pole barn and had not thought about concrete expansion. Doesn’t sil seal provide enough for expansion? I know it’s pretty thin.
@@shawnc9557 not really concrete expansion but frost lift. Concrete will lift as the ground underneath it freezes and will lift anything on top of it. Notch the top of the stud to fit flush with the inner top beam. Screwing threw the beam into the stud. Put some 1 1/2" spacers under the doubled bottle plate. Toenail the bottom of the stud to the plates essentially hanging the wall from the beam above. Fasten the bottom plates to the posts on eather side. Remove the spacers. This will give you an adequate space if you get frost lift. Keep the sheathing flush with the bottom plates. Finish off the space with some 1×4 base board. The baseboard can easily be readjusted in the spring if you concrete moves.
I’ve only seen frost heaving in clay soils. In my barn, we prepared a sand base, the soil is sandy anyway. No heaving in 30 years. A friend a few miles away, has had frost push up fence posts. Basically, if you have proper drainage, you won’t have heaving. Btw, in Michigan also. This is the best build vid I’ve seen.
@@irvlalonde3915 Totaly agree, it all depends on drainage and soil conditions whether or not you will get heaving. However the code around here considers a floating pad a floating pad. I've seen both, pads that never move and pads or sidewalks that affect doors so badly, that they can't be used in the winter. I could remember doing a job where a driveway lifted pushing the board and batten siding into the soffit ripping out the hose bib along the way.
@@irvlalonde3915 Correct, the posts don't heave much since they are buried, but the slab that he's tapcon'n his base plates to don't have the footer of conventional construction.
Thank you. I also live in michigan, and I'm trying to figure out what should do for my polebarn. I like flush look for finishing out. Figuring 16iin on centers, and sheet it in ply/osb so there's a quick easy way to secure racks or anything else. Have a great day
Thanks for watching, Sorry about the sound on the video I know its low. Yeah for a work shop I would do plywood myself as well. Osb I have just never liked but also when securing heavy objects Ive found it to not be as secure as plywood. Menards sells plywood at up to 4x10 sheets as well wich would make it go up even faster.
Great video. I'm in Michigan too and just had a 32 x 45 put up last Fall ($$) I'm getting a quote tomorrow on 2.5 inches of spray foam and am prepared for sticker shock. It's good to know I have a DIY and cheaper alternative. Thanks!
2:48 if that was the case you should of ran your 2x4 horizontal every 4 foot on center that way you'd get more insulation and less wood to transfer heat.
Man you’re making me want to build a pole barn! Too bad I don’t live in the country anymore. I live on a golf course now...not sure if my homeowners association would like it though.
Daryl, this looks so great! and YOU are a busy beaver! wow, so much progress! awesome! you have really thought this project through! and such a great plan for the Lego stings on the wall, too! you will have lots of insulation! Michigan is a cold place! LOL you will be snug as a bug in a rug, this winter when you're building! and creating Lego city! smart idea for the steel ceiling! wow, you are going to have such an awesome Lego Barn! can''t wait! I think you may have to give tours to the locals! and offer a LUG or something in your area! LOL cause it will be so nice lots of people will want to see your awesome creation! after all, who wouldn't want to visit a Lego Barn? every kid, young and old! LOL LegoLove the progress! Vickie 😃💚🌈💙😍
Thanks Vickie and thanks for watching. Yeah Ive had this idea in my head for a very long time. Just finally got brave enough to finally pull the trigger. I have considered opening it to the public on possibly sundays or something like that. Just not sure if I would have issues due to this not being a business and zoned residential. I really love the idea of getting with a local lug for sure and once this is done it will be so easy to transport builds in and out of the building. ;)
Way to go thank you! Very helpful as I am finishing off half of my pole barn (in Michigan as well) as living quarters and about to put walls up this weekend!
Great video brother. im going to do the exact same thing to mine. Do you have a video of doing your ceiling? If not, could you give me some suggestions please? I want to insulate the slope going up to the peak not the flat bottom of the trusses. I will probably do metal. I was just wondering if i just put the insulation inbetween the metal and ceiling, would that be just fine? it does have a wrap on top. Believe it or not i can not find any help for this online
I don’t see how that batt insulation is going to expand to fill the gap behind the 2x4’s? Those batts are 15” wide for 16” OC walls. Sure it might a little bit but still think there will be a gap and heat loss behind it. I am building a pole barn this summer in the UP of Michigan and plan to do the same thing. Just need to double check on this method for getting the R19 batts as that’s what I plan to use. Nice video and good tips!
Hello, I hope you're still responding to messages. I am going to be putting up a wall in my pole barn garage. It will run length wise with the roof truss. Do I simply secure the top plate into the bottom edge of the 2x8's by angling the screws or is there a better way ? Also, is there an alternate method to framing all the walls flush with the posts , for instance, could I use 4x8 1/2 " foam board insulation and simply secure the osb directly to the existing frame of the exterior walls ? Thanks!
I'm ready to frame my pole building, and What did you do at the top of the wall where the rafters are that the trusses sit on. Framing to the face of the posts leaves the 1.5 inches of rafter inside the post. If I frame out to the face of the rafters or truss supports. I lose another 3 inches of floor space. 1.5 inches each side. No sure what to do there. Any help will be appreciated.
Shelf framing between post is another,much cheaper method. Two foot no center 2x6s horizontally , laying flat between post. Then you add tin outside, insulation, and interior finish of choice. To late for your project, but it can save a viewer time and money. Especially with lumber prices.
How cool! 😀Thank you for the different ways to frame walls. Question: What type.of anchors are you using? Wedge, shield , sleeve? Which one is the best in your opinion? Could you show the procesd for the anchor installation? I imagine it is laborious and you might need a lot of editing and a 2nd person to record you. So no worries if it is not possible. We know you are doing this 'solo' and greatly appreciate you sharing this awesome project with us.
Hi Makita great questions. I can show the process in the next video as I havent done any of the anchors yet. But to answer your question I prefer using concrete screws that are called tapcons. They are basically a concrete screw and I prefer these myself so if I ever need to remove the wall it is a easy process. :)
Thanks for the video. I noticed you framed even with the face of the posts but in my building if I do that my top header with be sticking out an inch and a half. I was wondering how you accounted for that when planning to do drywall.
When I built the barn I cut the header into the post so it would be flush, plus it also makes it stronger. But an option for not doing that is drywall between posts and use wood over the post and header for a nice cabin post beam feel and look. You can also run a 2x4 on the face to make it all even for a complete smooth drywall look. :)
Thank you for the video very thorough. I’m hoping you can help me though, my pole barn has about 3 inches of closed cell spray foam sprayed directly on the metal on the interior and I’m trying to figure out the best way to wall it in. I want to be able to mount on the walls but space is a little tight to do traditional framing with the spray foam.
I would use girts, which I believe I mistankenly refer to as purlins in the video. Girts are the horizontal boards on the exterior wall. You can do the same thing to the interior of the building as well.
Thank you so much for the quick response. Would you use 2x6s then or 2x4s and what thickness plywood would you suggest to prevent any bowing once I start hanging things on the plywood?
This was excellent information! Subscribed. Exploring pole barn build for mixed humid climate. Looking at posts with 6" depth. Exterior 2x4 purlins with OSB sheathing -> WRB -> vinyl siding. Inward from purlins, R19 batts. Question - will the R19 batts expand to fill the 1.5" gaps between the purlins? Or should I have something like rigid foam/spray foam to fill that space? Also, I see you did a 2x4 stud wall to hang your drywall. Do these have to be oriented vertically or can they mirror the exterior purlins (2x4s 24"OC)? Thanks for making this video!
The walls are all done as a matter of preference. You can do interior Perlins and it will actually be easier. As to the insulation of r19 in the 1.5 gap yes it would expand and fill the gap as it is intended for 1x6 walls. But keep in mind compressing the insulation in that way will actually lower the insulation value.
Its much cheaper. For example where I am at a stick built with foundation, the cost to build a 24x32 was going to be 56k, this building is 30x60 and took 1 week for the contractor to build for a total cost of 32k and so far Ive only spent 3k additionally for a furnace, insulation, wiring and drywall.
Nice explanation. I need to do this in my pole building someday. What's your location? We're in northwest PA. I wasn't sure where Carter Lumber is across the state/country.
Why not use 1 1/2" rigid foam insulation on the horizontal and then use bat insulation on the vertical? Also, you could use small L brackets to tie in the 2x4's to the horizontal 2x6's to add strength. Lastly, how come you didn't use a PT 2x4 on the bottom plate against the cement?
I am thinking about building a pole barn for our home in Texas. To do a ceiling with 6" pine plank is 2 foot joist in the ceiling best? If so would it be best just to have trusses made for 2 foot centers? Also is 8 foot centers for your poles standard? I assume for a shop door you can have the poles spread further apart?
My plan is to frame flush to the interior of the posts with 2 x 4s 16" OC to accomodate drywall. 2 x 12 headers are tricky here. There will be a 4" (not 3.5" gap either between the headers, or from the interior header to inner part of the post. If I wanted to seal this gap, could I use shims or foam?
Stick build from the start and avoid framing exterior walls twice. Polebarns are great for livestock and equipment storage, but if you want to finish the interior and you're going to build, skip the pole construction.
Metal or plywood interior is super easy in a pole barn without the hassle of double framing and drywall. Interior girts go up fast. Plus you can use 4 or 8 foot wide bats for superior insulation (fewer thermal bridges) plus avoid the $$$ cost of concrete footers needed for stick built.
Opinions vary, but a pole barn is much cheaper than a stick built building and I wanted a warm hobby space to work in. John answered a lot already. What I am doing is a bit overkill as for the inside but the cost is still lower than stick built. :)
@@BevinsBuilds Im hearing and agreeing with your point, that is...alot more $ to contract out stick built. A friend and I will be stick framing mine, am considering post frame but haven't been able to see much difference in material cost yet, have plenty of stick framing experience so we can make good speed on it, most likely be using frost free insulated forms if I want to avoid pouring continuous footers 30"+ deep( southeast Ohio, high clay content, will consult my structural engineer about it, he's my cousin), there is plenty of info about them, been used for decades in northern Europe.
@@johnjames5020 in this method, would basically duplicate the girts on the inside of the post, that are same as the ones on the outside of the post? And then your batts of insulation would run horizontal?
Im looking into doing a finished insulated pole barn to have heated in winter. Im curious about all the 2x4s and framing why not just do a stick build from the beginning. And not have to worry about post rot? I thought a pole barn might save on money but do you think it did after all the framing after the build was done? Thanks Nice barn!
Well, I'm only one person and it was easier for me to do it this way, it does seem counterproductive I do agree and understand your point in saying that but here is where the cost savings is if you were to build a facility the size that I did (1800sqft) you must have a footing in order to do the walls stick built frame. So in the long run it will cost you more to stick build it as the footings and concrete are going to give you a very large price tag. If you're doing all the work by yourself and you can yes I would say stick-built is better. But my barn finished the way it is cost me only $38,000 that was electrical, heating cooling, insulation the whole ball of Wax. The rough barn itself was 29000. I paid someone to do the pole barn and finished the rest of the work myself. To pay someone to frame a stick built building I was quoted $58000 and then I still needed to insulate and finish the interior.
Great video! I'm planning on finishing my interior as well and still on the fence about using 2x4s vs 2x6s. Since you said you live in MI, how is the comfort level in your building now with R-19 and what looks like just a vapor wrap?
To me its perfect inside andnif your in michigan as well. You know this weekend being memorial weekend has been very hot. Inhave yet to install my air conditioning system but the inside hasnt gotten above 71 degrees and its been 85 to 90 at the heat of the day for 4 days in a row. As for the winter its very comfortable and warm as well. But also keep in mind I installed commercial grade carpet tile on the floor.
I feel like interior framing isn't there for structural support and shouldn't be depended on for structural support. But it seems misleading to say that is doesn't provide any. Do you concur?
Yes technically it provides a structural support but in the true definition of that, no it does not because the interior framing is not what is keeping the building standing or supporting the roof structure.
Will you be using blown insulation in the ceiling (attic)? If so, is there a rat run wide enough to support your weight to be able to walk on while blowing in? You mentioned the trusses are 4' on center, the normal 2x4 rat run won't properly support your weight if spanning 4'.
I was looking at just laying the fiberglass bat as I go. I debated doing blow in but as you said I wouldnt want to climb up inside it to do it. There are 2x4 rat runs yes but I wouldnt trust them to support me at all.
I did do that as I got ahead of myself so part had to be taken down to correct. But I do want to make a note that it isnt a requirement. There is a cod exception when you install a vapor barrier under the concrete the pressure treated lumber is not required.
I stuffed R19 insulation between the wall support headers and I built my inner walls flush with the beams like you did. Are you going to insulate between your double beams?
@@BevinsBuilds it was easier for me from underneath, beside that I stapled bubble wrap insulation on the top of them. I was concerned that the draw of air from the soffit to the ridge cap might create a kind of vacuum draw from the inner wall. It was just speculation on my part and wasn’t hard to do. I have no idea if it would have.
Great video. I'm in the same boat, wanting to finish a portion of the interior of my pole barn. My question is: mine doesn't have the tyvek film between the outer steel skin and the interior pearlins that it is mounted to. So do I need to add tyvek on the inside of the pearlins to create the air barrier between the steel and insulation? Not sure if I need to do foam board insulation between the horizontal pearlins to seal off from the exterior steel first or not. Suggestions?
littlewingpsc27 spray foam it be done with it. Covers vapor barrier...amazing R value....adds strength to the walls. Itll Pay you back in fuel savings in 2-3 yrs !! After that its cash in the pocket for the rest of your life !!
Adam is right spray foam will deffinately fix the issue of not having the vapor barrier. But you could also do as you stated and place the foam board up first and then use tradition fiberglass insulation if you dont want to spray foam. I would say you could tyvak or just plastic the interior as well as another option. But you need to do one of the options as you will have condensation issues of you dont.
Great video. Quick question, I'm going with 2x4 like you as I have 5x5 posts on a pre-existing pole barn. If you add the width of the outside horizontal purlins to the posts its approx 6.5" from the inside face of the posts to the steel. I'm going with R22 which is 5.5" thick. If by batts are going in flush to the inside where the vapour barrier will go this will leave an air gap of around 1" to the steel. I'm in Ontario and it gets pretty much as cold as Michigan, will this be an issue or will I have to fill that gap with additional insulation, rigid foam or otherwise so there's no air gap? Thanks in advance,
Yes there will be a air gap. But it can be filled with insulative foam board. My biggest thing though is and I am not up on any codes for Canada. But my understanding with the Canadian codes is you have to wrap both the exterior and interior walls with a vapor barrier it has to be a certain mils thick of plastic if I'm not mistaken. As two the question, are there any issues having the air gap to me the gap is so miniscule I have not seen any issues on my current building or previous buildings that I have done this way. But keep in mind the exterior of my building does have a vapor barrier. I would not want an air gap left between the insulation and the exterior wall without that vapor barrier. I hope that makes sense.
@@BevinsBuilds The problem I've got is that it was already built when we bought the place and doesn't have an exterior vapor barrier. Its a solid barn though and will have an inside vapor barrier to code. If I don't do a rigid foam to fill those gaps I guess i need to offset the roll insulation so its against the steel and have my wall inset between the posts? Either that or just install vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation.
The total finish cost for my building with the interior was 40000 dollars. As for heat I used a natural gas 95 efficient furnace with duct work ran along the ceiling. Also made a video on the duct install as well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W9ao_YGNG9g.html
Hi Benny, the walls all very slightly different due to the posts and concrete floor being slightly wavy. But I made, not necassarily a jig as much as a guide line on my radial arm saw for multiple cuts of the same length. Ill discuss this in another video soon. :)
All the sills are treated lumber. But I also want to point out that a treated sill is not required per R319.1 #3 as I do have a vapor barrier between the slab and the ground.
You really need a microphone above you or in your pocket. Low volume. Just remember whatever materials you have left over you can donate them to the enlarging JCs apartment 😃
Not totally sure what you mean. If you mean as in a old style building of like settlers for example I would say yes. Pole construction has been around for a very long time. Also if you mean can you build a pole barn as a house with todays building codes in mind I will say mostly yes. But a lot of that depends on the local building codes and requirements. Pole barn homes are very common in rural areas.
I love when people do projects like this DYI however this is a poor way to finish a interior. No certified architect would ever sign off on this. The reason we can secure base plates to the floor in standard Construction is because we use a footer. Which is a perimeter of concrete that extends below the frost line. In this type of construction the slab will unquestionably move which will eventually cause cracking in the drywall at the very least. It could be one year or it could be 20 years but it will happen. If you get more than 1/2" of Frost heave across the length of the slab you will actually start to pull the framing apart and lift the posts out of the ground. I have seen this several times with post frame construction. Also do not count on soil and drainage to save you. Even us experts with actual engineered designs on tested compacted soil with footers occasionally suffer from foundation failure due to frost heave. It would be best to include a warning so others don't make your mistake.
Lol yes most of the building is to be used for my lego space. But I also make props/costumes and such. I plan to set up a vacum form and many other things.
Hi Daryl, great build! Is that house wrap on walls? My question is I have just the bare metal for walls with girts. Can I frame in walls with batted insulation or should I put some foam board in between girts horizontally first. I have also seen people bookshelf with existing girt with either 2x4 or 2x6's horizontally 2' on center then staple insulation in horizontally. Just trying to avoid condensation. Near Pittsburgh, PA. My roof has 1" Styrofoam, shiny side up towards roof and I put in white metal ceiling with 24x48 r38 unfaced batts on top of the metal ceiling. Haven't seen any issues as of yet.
I would put foam boards in first or I would staple house wrap in the cavity before applying insulation. I do that to prevent as you stated condensation buildup and the insulation absorbing it. Keep in mind if you absolutely fill the entire cavity you should not have condensation regardless. As there should not be any heat cold transfer to cause it due to the cavity being filled. But its better to be safe than sorry. The biggest thing with insulation is always remember that the facing always goes to the heated and or cooled space and you'll be good :)
@@BevinsBuilds Thanks, appreciate the fast response! My builder got back to me also and said to put foam board vertically over top of framing and run some caulking or spray foam between sheets and 6x6's. The only other question I would have with the foam board is the stuff with foil side to put against wall to reflect heat (like a polyiso) or the pink foam boards no foil be better? I also looked at double bubble and other similar products that you staple and seal with tape. Too many decisions haha.
Yeah that would deddinately work and I did correct that but never made a video on the bottum plates as they are treated. But there is an exception in the code that allows for not having treated when you have a vapor barrier under the slab. But using treated is still the better idea. :)
Explain to me how it's a waste of money. You would pay three to four times as much for the correct footings to have a framed wall like your toting. This entire building in this video cost me only 29,000 dollars having somebody else build it. Show me someone that's willing to build a building using footings and framed walls for that cost.
