I hope this helps anyone with cutting trims. It is based on a carpenters trick and works 100% of the time (for me atleast). When cutting the bead, for any angle, place the bead against a piece of timber (12mm x 36mm or 1/2" x 1 1/4") with the timber against the saw fence and the finish side of the bead facing into the fence. The timber needs to be parallel to keep trim cuts square, first this takes care of the gap between the fences in the center creating a zero clearance throat and will prevent the trim being grabbed by the blade. Your cut mark is easier to align to blade tooth for access, and for creating the notch on butt joints. The timber also needs to be the width of the saw fence, for small cuts where keeping the your digits away from the blade is required you can clamp the bead with a second timber against where the tile sits and over the fixing strip. I hope this makes sense, and saves a finger or two.
A hacksaw, miter box and a bit of sandpaper to buff out the edges does this job nicely :) just in case someone doesnt have an aluminum cutting saw and the shears arent enough
@2:37 man you are right. I have experienced 2 times when the trim ended up flying across the room. Scared the crap out of me. Someone could had gotten hurt! Thanks for that pointer. Also, I am surprised you did not mention the kind of blade to use (aluminum blade with a lot more teeth), which is mighty important for this little job.
Best tip of all time when cutting shluter profiles is to wear safety glasses. Please be safe above all else or you will definitely put your eye out cutting this thin metal. Especially as you mentioned when cutting the bonding edge.
Hi there, sorry to hear you're having some trouble, can you give our Product Support team a call, and they can help you troubleshoot. 888-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada).
I use a carbide tip 50 tooth blade and it cuts my profile like butter I go very slow with it sitting on a clean 2x4 I don’t even have to clean up the edges. I have a question what do you use to hold the profile steady or glue it in place before setting tile?
Hi DJ, the thin-set, tile, and adjoining profiles will generally hold the profile in place during installation, however painters tape could assist if you need something extra to keep the profile or corner in place prior to tile placement. It's okay if the profile moves a bit before you set the tile though. As long as both steps are done around the same time, you should be fine. Hope this helps!
I thought I would watch the video and learn what kind of tools I need to cut the trim, But even though you're cutting them, I don't know what you are using. What kind of chop saw, is it a wet saw what kind of blade, etc Not having the right tools to cut this is holding up my kitchen tile! What are my options?
Hey, Our "How do I cut profiles?" FAQ page on our website will give you all the info you need for cutting the profiles. Https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/profiles-how-to-cut This video is included on that page, but here is a separate link, in case it's helpful: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FUdLWiIqTWY.html
@@schlutersystems1 never mind. I designed my own manner of cutting it with a hacksaw and a speed square. Necessity is the mother of invention, after all. Please remember that it's not just contractors that use these materials. Thank you.
HI Dean! Aluminum profiles can be cut using a chop saw or miter saw with a non-ferrous blade. More cutting options can be found in the FAQ section of our website. Hope that helps!
Hey there Anders! For aluminum profiles, we generally use a non-ferrous metal blade. If sharp, the blade will not leave any burrs. If burrs are present after cutting, gently touch-up with a table mounted belt sander.
We've got a video for that! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-anFb98GzCDA.html Profile size selection is based on the thickness of the tile and amount of setting material used to set the tile. With smaller format tiles, take the tile thickness and select the corresponding size profile. Due to more warpage with larger format tiles, additional thin-set mortar may need to be applied underneath the tile to achieve full coverage. This will raise the tile and may require the use of a larger profile. Once installed, the profile and tile should be flush with each other.
Some input if possible. Ive attempted a miter cut on bullnose trim for my niche and no matter what I do it ends up not being right. The tile ends up too far below or above the trim. Question: When measuring the trim, am I measuring from the outside edge of the trim or inside edge. I would really appreciate some detail instructions on exactly how and where to measure on both the niche and trim. Thank you
Hi there, would you be able to give our Customer Support team a call to discuss your project in a bit more detail, and they will advise from there. 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Thanks.
Hi Kuma, We recommend the Schluter PROCUT-TSM for use with an angle grinder when cutting Schluter profiles in stainless steel, aluminum, and brass. The following video will be helpful as well. See time ~1:08 for specifics about aluminum profiles, but other materials are addressed as well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FUdLWiIqTWY.html Hope this helps!
Hi Dianna, the unmodified thin-set does not bond to the stainless steel. The attachment in this case is a mechanical bond of the thin-set in the channels of the profile.
