Hi Paul! Same as a few comments below! Just crossed over your channel and very simple explanations, however keen for success on the field. Suffered for while of miss focus, now my keeper rate got better as I go. Field sports shoot Rugby, also motorsports and surf (Kite and Windsurf). Loved the channel. Cheers and stay safe!
Thank you for a great video, I actually learned 2 things from this. 1. A valid reason why I should use Back Button Focus. Most everyone I talk to always just said, "It comes in handy." but not explain why. 2. Why I should consider moving my single focus around more. Thank you, thank you.
Love the bonus tip with basketball. I use center point for everything, but that makes so much sense. I though pro shooters use some kind of fancy action based autofocus, I was planning some day trying to figure out all that.
Other pros may use some other cross type, but I think most do the single point and either move it around a little bit or shoot loose and crop in after.
This is a great video. I’ve been doing music photography for years. I recently wanted to start doing sports for my Son’s basketball. But I couldn’t wrap my head around how to keep the focus point on the eyes as you’re always “supposed” to do. Aiming at the chest makes so much sense. Thank you for clearing up what drove me mad.
The old line hindsight is 20/20 came to mind. I have lost count of pictures I didn't get because I had anticipated something else or saw something else that didn't unfold as I thought and then missed an action shot that if only I had followed another possibility.
Thanks for the video. Great use of visual black board drawing and explaining DOF simple and quick. Also like the second "B" camera showing "A" camera view, helps keep the video interesting vs you just starring at us while you explain stuff. One question I have is if your lens can do sharp photos at 2.8 why wouldn't I shoot at 2.8 Outside for background separation of subjects? On single point AF, I feel like for a beginner it maybe really hard to get the shot in focus every time in single point AF. I totally get trying to track your main subject when you have other subjects running through the frame at different distances. But with single point your gambling you hit the main subject every time. In a sense you nail it or you don't with single point. I feel like that is harder for a beginner, but see why you prefer it over a grouping AF points in AF-C.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I use 4.0 because it gives a little extra room if the focus is off by a tiny bit. I'm not worried about background separation since when outside the background is generally far away and there isn't a noticeable difference between 2.8 and 4.0. Totally agree with the single point. It can miss very bad if you don't get the subject, but the best time to practice is when you're starting out!
It seems so basic, but I never thought of lowering the focal point in the camera to capture things high. Just starting to shoot other sports, (have primarily been doing football for years) and was struggling with catching the full frame shots I wanted with some of the other sports, (Soccer, Volleyball, Basketball, etc). I do prefer the expanded Center Point, but can completely see what you’re saying about potentially losing a shot due to the camera choosing the wrong helping point to focus on. Thanks for the great tip!
It is something so small but so helpful! I will use the expanded center point on occasion, mostly on a second body that I switch too quickly when I don't have the benefit of tracking the subject. Thanks for watching!
This was an absolute treasure to find as I'm getting into more sports photography as friends and family are starting up their seasons. These are all wonderful tips and advise. Do you recommend learning and shooting in full manual or one of the semi-auto modes (e.g. aperture priority, shutter priority)? Thanks.
I started out shooting in aperture priority mode, which I still use sometimes outdoors depending on the weather and what I'm photographing. As long as you are watching your shutter speed with AP mode that will work. It is helpful to try and move to full manual though to give yourself more understanding of your camera and how you'll need to adjust settings quickly if you ever need too.
@@Paul_RutherfordI was turned down by Maxpreps, are you familiar with them? I'm thinking I need 300-400 2.8 to even be considered. Only working with a 70-200 now.
@@zeker714 I know of Maxpreps. but nothing specific about their shooters or policies. Some places do prefer you have bigger lenses or nicer cameras. Still try to network with current photographers that shoot with them and creating a killer portfolio will help a lot too.
Thank you for this video. I appreciate all the settings you shared. My question is: what do I set my priority dial to to integrate all the settings you shared? P: Programmed Auto · S: Shutter-Priority Auto · A: Aperture-Priority Auto · M: Manual?
Thanks for some great info that wasn't just settings, but put in the context of shots. I just started playing with AF-C instead of shooting manual using back button focus. Question: Are you using back button focus in conjunction with AF-C? You get the initial focus with the back button? I'm going to give this a try next time. The thing I'm struggling with is acceptable ISO. I'm shooting volleyball matches in high school gyms which don't always have very good lighting. So, when I come down to 1/500th the motion isn't always stopped sufficiently. When I go to 1/1000 I worry about the ISO affecting the image. Of course, I'm also currently only have an 18-55mm lens. So, my reach is limited depending where I can sit in the gym. Thanks again for the content.
I turn off the autofocus on my shutter button so it will only focus when the back button is pressed. Continuous autofocus is always the setting I use for sports. It is always tough shooting indoors and a balance between the ISO and shutter speed. You have to find what works best for your images. Sometimes there are brighter spots indoors, typically in the center of the court, and you can try to focus on getting images in those brighter spots as you wont have to have as high of an ISO.
Just coming across your channel. You explained nicely. Do you shoot outdoor sports, I.e., softball with any filters? I ask because no matter my adjustments in the Triad, anyone wearing any white in their uniform, let alone an entire white uniform, I get blown out highlights. I enjoyed the video and subscribed. Thank you,
I don't shoot with any filters. I let the white uniforms be a little blown out if it is a sunny day. Not the entire uniform, but if some spots are blown out that is ok with me since they are already white uniforms. I'd rather the skin be properly exposed vs the uniform.
@@Paul_Rutherford i shoot a basketball game last night and yes i can see some improvements on my shots. however there were some not so sharp to my liking specially in the eye part. im using 85mm f1.8 and i went down to f1.8 since its too dark. i think its a factor since 1.8 is too narrow f2.8 will have no issue focusing on the face even if my focus target is on the chest
@@rjnakamura1385 shooting at 1.8 is always going to be a lot tougher to get things in focus. One because of the depth of field, and two sometimes those lenses don't focus as quickly.
Great video! Thank you! is there a reason you don't push the shutter speed up to 1/8000? I was under the impression that the faster I can get that shutter speed the sharper the images. But are the tradeoffs too great with ISO? I shoot a lot of outdoor cycling events with the 70/200 2.8 on the 5D Mark iv. Thanks!
I try not to go too high with the ISO which generally means I won't be at 1/8000 unless it is really bright outside. Nothing wrong with shooting at 1/8000 but for my images the difference in motion blur between 1/2000 and 1/8000 isn't going to matter. Do you shoot at lower shutter speeds to get the bike wheels blurred, sometimes if the shutter is too fast it looks like the bikers aren't moving if you can see their tires. You should follow Pat Daly on instagram, he has some great outdoor cycling work!
All good advice...but interesting how new technology (mirrorless AF) changes technique. Eye tracking can be a game changer for certain sports (but definitely not football). Pro shooter who's covered pro sports/college/preps for a long time. But, never been a back-button focus guy. So, for those who feel guilty about not learning how to do back focus, it's OK to be different.
It's a great technique and a skill I just never developed. Glad you shared it so clearly-would be good for most folks to learn! Most of my sports shooting buddies (AP/Getty/USA Today) are back-button focus types. Although, some have changed their technique with the latest gen. of focus modes, plus proper settings for subject-interference delay based on each sport. My approach is kind of like the back-focus approach, I just lightly lift my trigger finger to deactivate focus tracking. But, I like the idea that every time I squeeze the shutter, AF is engaged. @@Paul_Rutherford
That is a good feeling to know you're always focusing when pressing the shutter. With the new eye tracking I've added a second button so I can use either single point or eye tracking by switching which back button Im pressing. Makes me feel lazy using eye tracking sometimes. haha@@fredzwicky8363
It really depends how shallow you go, but I wouldn't shoot sports action lower than f/2.8, unless it was a crazy dark gym or I was going for a specific look. I generally shoot at f/4 or f/2.8. Sometimes f/5.6 if I want to make sure everything is in focus.
Great video! Is the canon 5d mk iii a good camera for low light? I am looking into getting my first full frame body. I shoot alot of high school sports and I use a canon 90d with a canon 70-200mm f2.8.
I like my 5d mk iii a lot. But you may want to look into the R6 as it is much newer with better features and will probably last you longer. I'm not sure what the price differences are though as you can probably find a 5d mk iii used for cheap. Just make sure it is in good condition if you do that! And make sure to buy the lens adapter for the R6 if you go that route.
aiming at chest...makes a lot of sense but first I had ever heard that! guess especially if not shooting super shallow DOF that helps compensate for that too
You can also prefocus using the shutter release button you just leave your finger on the shutter which is far easier than back button focusing for most people
That is true about the half press, which I did when I started out, but I do find back button is more useful even though it takes a few shoots to get used too.
I shot my first college games in 1974, my first pro FB game in 1986 (Dallas Cowboys vs. St Louis Cardinals) and have been published in Sport Illustrated. I've shot Canon and Nikon in the days of film and manual focus, and digital with both, and I have NEVER used single spot focusing for more than a few shots, it's just too unforgiving. If your miss as you try to follow your subject or you change subjects (QB to receiver) and you're just slightly off, then you've lost a shot (or more). I would suggest "expand AF area surround" on the Canon series or the '9 point dynamic' area on a Nikon. Even Nikons literature says "use Single Point AF with stationary subjects"...9-Point Dynamic area AF for "predictable" moving subjects and 21-Point Area AF for subjects that are moving "unpredictably". To be fair there are some photogs who used center point only but the majority use single point with some "expansion" or "dynamic" area included. And I'm not counting those folks that are beginning to use the predictive AF settings that are getting better and better. Hard to argue with a man how has more than 100 Sports Illustrated covers, Peter Read Miller, "I used four or nine point focus" on my Canons.
Agreed different settings are better for different people. I prefer to use the single point after trying both settings a few times, but maybe I'll have to try the expanded field again to see if it is better for me now. I noticed the expanded field was picking up other moving players and taking focus away from my main subject on occasion.
Hi Paul I take sports photography with my nikon d5600. In your opinion, is it better to zoom in on the footballer or shoot with a wider view and then crop?
Good question. I tend to shoot zoomed in, but have missed a photos. I've also gotten unexpected photos I love from being zoomed in.There isn't much harm in shooting a little wider and cropping in after. As with anything I like to mix it up and make sure I'm not getting the same type of image every time though. So vary your approach and find what may work best for you.
Hi Paul, I've got a Nikon D3200 and I recently picked up a 70-200 2.8E lens. The lens is great but I took this setup to my boys baseball game and missed out on a lot of images with bad focus images. Caught the background instead of the players. Is the AF single point servo the best option for my camera for sports photography? I'm new to photography and any tips is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'd say try single point on the next game you shoot for the first few innings. Long enough for you to get a feel for it. And try out the small cross. I don't like saying single point will solve your problems, but trying the different set ups will let you see what works best for you and help build your focusing skills in general. I'd say either the small cross or a single point will be your best options.
It depends on the situation. But you can do either as long as the focus point is on the batter. If you recompose your shot after focusing, then leave your finger off the back button focus when taking the photo.
So queation? Think im doing something wrong…i have the canon 5d mark iii and i tried shooting some pics at my nieces t-ball game and for some reaso i feel like i keep missing focus on some photos with AI servi on, shutter speed at least 1/500, and high speed cont, but not sure if im useing the correct focus points and/or case? Any recommendations?
Missing focus can be a number of things. If you are using a single point I'd suggest using an expanded cross. It's hard to give specific feedback since I'm not sure what types of photos are missing focus or what settings you are using. But if you keep missing the same type of photo then try changing your focus point set up and potentially your autofocus case.
Depends how much money you have! I love using a 16-35 for pregame type images and a 400 during game play. But with Ulti since you can be on the sidelines I love 70-200 as well. A 70-200 on a crop camera body is also a great combination and way cheaper than a 400mm unless you get a 400 f/5.6 which is really only effective in good light.
At what time is the explanation on setting up the back button focus? I missed it between the board explanation of DOF and going to get the camera part.
If I am using back button focus and the subject is moving towards me, do I continuously hold in the back button focus button while continuously pressing the shutter button?
Yes! Any moving subject I have both buttons pressed at the same time the entire time shooting. I really only take my finger off the back button focus for players that are staying the same distance from me(batters, pitchers from the side, golfers, etc.(
You push and hold the back button focus button while also pressing the shutter button to keep the focus while the subject is moving. For baseball hitters I will press once to focus and then let go until they start running, then I will click and hold it again.
How do you focus on ultimate players when they jump and maybe the center AF point hits the sky? I struggle with that a lot, or maybe I'll crop their arms :(
That is a tougher scenario and it happens to me a lot as well if I'm too zoomed in. This is a good time to use a single point that is lower in the frame, like basketball. You can also try to anticipate when they are going to jump and start moving the camera up earlier. Practicing both of those techniques should help! Thanks for watching!
Yuzi Drexel I don’t use it to track a person. I have it as one point and I track the person myself. If you are looking through the viewfinder, in AI servo mode, and holding down the focus button is pretty sure the box does stay white. Or may flash red when it’s locked on.
@@Paul_Rutherford it gonna be my 3rd camera i think that i can call my self a semi pro hhh Is there any other cameras for sports that can better then the 7d mark ii in the same range of price And thank u soo much for responding
Many times while shooting indoor gym volleyball, my focus point is spot-on, but later, when I view it on the computer, it's grainy. I'm shooting at 3200 ISO, 2.8 and only 1/400. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Bianca! If your image is grainy from the ISO there probably isn't much you can do about it without getting a better camera body or shooting in a better lit gym. My gym images are always grainy unless there is really good light. I think one thing that can help most with grainy images is being closer to the subject and not cropping in too much. Also I try to make sure the exposure in camera is bright so I don't have to brighten it up in Lightroom so I would test out different settings. Try going up to ISO 6400 and stay at 2.8 and 1/400 or 1/500 to see if it makes any difference. Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for watching!
This is a very interesting topic. It drives me crazy and I still have not found a perfect solution. When I shoot Friday night lights, I can end up at ISO 6400, shutter of 1/1000 and f2.8. I concentrate on my focus point. I can take a series of 5 shots in a row of a ball carrier and the middle shot can be a little soft? I have a feeling rushing to focus on other plays or trying to go from QB to receiver in a rush is not giving the camera time to sharp focus on the receiver maybe? Another dilemma is at dusk when the field has media box shadows along with sunlight. Brutal. I thought auto ISO might be the answer but still problematic. Maybe what I need is a switch to hit when the play goes from sun to shade or vice versa that changes the settings with one quick switch. One thing that may be happening is when using the f2.8 with shallow depth, my focus point could slip over the the ball or something in front of the eyes causing the slight softness?
Yea sometimes the autofocus can get thrown off or we wander from the subject. You can try doing an expanded cross from the single point. That might help. Also when it is darker or back lit I find the autofocus has a tougher time holding on to subjects, especially if they have dark jerseys. Always tough going from straight shade into direct sun. Two ways I try to deal with it are 1) Figure out my settings for both areas, but keep the f/stop and iso the same. Then all I have to do is remember to rotate the shutter speed dial. 2) I will use aperture priority mode and underexpose by a 1/3-2/3 of a stop. Then brighten the shadow photos and maybe darken the bright photos in post. Def something that isn't easy and takes practice in each situation to get right. Hope that helps!
If you're going to teach, your language must be precise i.e. - :50 'When outside shoot at 1/1,000 - 1/8,000'...and f4-5.6." Being outside has nothing to do with your choice of SS or f-stop, it's how much light your have! What I'm sure you meant to say was if your outside during daylight, when you have lots of light, you'll be able to use higher shutter speeds to stop or freeze motion. It's easy to imagine a high school student watching your video and going to his/her first Friday night football game and because they are "outside" starting with 1/1000 at f 4 and wondering why their pics are sooooo freakin' dark.
You are correct it depends on the amount of light you have! I wanted to keep it very basic and give starting points and didn't want to get into too many scenarios at once which is why I say this is a place to start with your settings. For me it was easier to say inside and outside vs light and dark. If I do another once I'll make it inside/nighttime.
Yes, but also I don't think it really matters. I do like that people don't know exactly which camera I'm using. Really I saw some other photographers doing it and thought it looked cool too.
Your video left me a little confused on your audience. You cover some really basic topics, things that I feel most intro sports photographers would already know like exposure triangle, AF basics, etc. But you casually say you shoot inside at 1/500 - 1/2000-recommending 1/1000 and above-yet don't bring up ISO. Most intro sports photogs are not going to have beefy systems that will be able to do that. I shoot Nikon D500 and D750 with a 70-200mm and I can only make pictures work because I can go to 5000-6400 ISO at 1/640 - 1/800. I think I could do 1/1000 with 8000 ISO on the D500 but it's new and I haven't put it through the ringer yet. I looked through your videos and none seem to really talk about ISO which IMO is the biggest killer in this game. When I was looking into these cameras I saw the D750 toted as being great in low light, but lo and behold the native ISO paled in comparison to the D500 which is at the same price point and shoots nearly double the frames per second to boot. Please share some tips on ISO, better exposure and exposure consistency! And for batch editing/processing/workflow. Thanks for sharing, you've gained a subscriber.
Thanks for the comment and sorry for the confusion! I didn't mention ISO because I like to set these setting first and then change my ISO to get the correct exposure. I think I didn't end up speaking about it because I was focusing on focus. I agree that entry level cameras in bad gyms it's going to be tough. There honestly isn't a ton you can do to get consistent, in focus, and clean images in terrible light for sports. You are always going to have to trade something off. I'll have to make a video about shooting indoors and some tips I use! Thanks for watching and commenting!
