Just wanted to say Thank You! Installed my Morels today and so sweet been sitting in truck for 2 hrs listening after setting Xovers and time correction on head unit. Would have never bought them if not for your channel.
It does sound really good with the dsp! Like you I am getting back into it. A DSP is a more correct way to set EQ,Time alignment and levels correct? I have this in home but called dirac live and set up room with a mic. This do the same? I wish we could get your subs and likes up to a million! I would like to see you try the very best offered of everything!
You are too kind... thank you! And yes, you are on point with how the dsp works time alignment and all. The channel is growing, slowly but steadily and your Likes, Comments and Sharing truly helps, and is greatly appreciated 🙏🏿
Wouldnt a more fair comparison be if you set the eq and best settings on head unit and then compare to DSP settings instead of head unit set to all flat?
@@mooklaathegreat3662 100% truth... lol! I did it the hard way back in the day, tuning a 30-band eq MANUALLY 🤮 Total nightmare! Now, a system without a dsp isn't worth listening to 😁
Yeah bro, it's a big difference when you run a dsp for multiple reasons.... not only it protects your speakers but allows you to fine tune your entire system to your liking.
Absolutely! That's why I gave that warning in the beginning, because if you don't know, you could really damage your equipment. Listening to it flat was hurting my ears... sounded like a bullhorn, like those SPL loudspeakers.
Huge difference in sound ... What will be the amplifier crossover settings i.e. what should be kept at amp after all calibration done in DSP .pls suggest
Yes, the dsp is a total game changer. My head unit, and all of my amplifiers are set flat. All of my processing is done through my dsp. That way, there's no conflict in processing between products.
Yes, but only to the limit of the speakers you're using. For example, if you have Kicker components, a dsp will make them sound their best, but it won't make them sound like Morel components, or subs.
@@Ahm-Creative so I have an 18 accord with infinity kappa 603cf and 63 xf, connected to an nvx 4 channel, and got kicker cxa1800.1 powering dual L7S enclosure. An lc7i connected to the nvx and lc1i connected to the amp all working together. Planning to add the prv2.8 dsp
@@danny4704 NICE! You've already got great gear, so when you connect and tune your dsp, it's gonna make everything you have sound so much better. You will get everything your speakers have to offer!
@@danny4704 my 1st choice for your build would be the Audio Control DM-608. It's a great dsp, and if within your budget, will be something you can continue to use as you change you system in the future (as we all end up doing 😝). The PRV isn't bad, but I think it's limited by comparison.
Well, if you consider Alpine, Arc, Helix or Mosconi to be good, you will be looking at $1,500 to $2,000 because you'll need the dsp and controller. Without the controller, you may be able to get a quality one for $600-$800.
My tweeters are rated for 120w/rms or more...I believe, but I'm sending them and the mids only 65w/rms each. I'm sending 150w/rms to my 8's in the doors, but tweeters really only need 5 watts to play. There's no cone to move, so they don't require a lot of energy at all. As the speaker size increases, so does the energy requirement... generally speaking. The speaker's efficiency plays a part too, but that's the basic rule.
@@milesbachelor8747 Yessir... that's why I'm here. ✊🏿 But yeah, it's a balancing act. My boy feeds his mids and highs 250w/rms when they are rated for 80. With your gain, levels and tuning right, they can handle more power and will play very clean, but you still must be extremely careful. Here's an example. If said speaker is rated for 80 watts, you can actually feed it more if your frequencies are set high. My mids play from 250-2700hz... there's not a lot of cone movement...so they can take the additional power. But if I fed them that additional power at 50-80hz, that movement would surely blow them. Limited movement helps increase rated power, within reason.
@@Ahm-Creative Makes sense. Since all I have are subs, I can tell they’re working very hard on certain songs. My amp doesn’t have a subsonic filter, and they pick up frequencies in the 20s. That said, I don’t want my smaller drivers driving outside of their lanes, and with only the necessary power. I guess I want everything running efficiently, music and the car’s functionality. Only got 250A, and the mono will use 120~150A
@@milesbachelor8747 you're sealed if I'm not mistaken, so your sub is perfectly safe at 20hz. Ported can be tricky playing that low. But once you get your dsp, it'll fix that. Yeah, I'm at the limit of my alternator, but you may need another one, depending upon the draw of your amp for your mids and highs.
If there was, I'd say either the Dayton Audio DSP-408 which I used to have, or the EXPERT DSP! The Dayton has only 10-Bands of equalization as opposed to this Arc dsp which has 26. Plus the Dayton has an app that you can tune from, whereas others don't. The Dayton does have some ground loop noise, but if you use these on your mids and highs, it will eliminate it... or at least it did for me. If you're going fully active, you'll need 2. If you're using passive crossovers on your mids and highs, one will do. XtremPro Hi-end Ground Loop Noise Isolator/Filter for Car Audio/Home High-Fidelity System - Black (65042) a.co/d/8rOnU23
@@Ahm-CreativeI have the complete system but recently bought a brax dsp with the es fav modules and I have too many dsp two zapco hdsp and a helix ultra dsp plus the brax and only two vehicles
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